SeanGrac

it's not the ECU

You did not say anything about "TRAC OFF" in other post. check (see if blown) and remove "Dome" fuse for a few minutes to clear "TRAC" codes. Also check brake fluid.

no problem. that' what it is supposed to do. The light is yellowish if I remember. IF you see the light it a WARNING. Put the key in; turn to ACC, light will come on for about 3 seconds then go out after engine started. If, while driving, the light blinks; then you have a problem. If I remember right, the system is tied in with ABS and Throttle, so if it blinks while driving; drive safely.

Check the throttle position sensor (TPS)

with engine on; does the manual switch work, is the auto switch in or out.(on left steering column) Is the dome light on?

with or without the key in; engine running; etc. more info needed

Go to http://www.sylvania.com/BusinessProducts/AutomotiveLighting/

First off; there is more than one fuse for the system. Since you didn't say which you had; go and check all of them. Off the top of my head the "DOME 10A" & "DOOR 30A" fuses powers both windows and moonroof.

You have to get to the shifter and the ignition switch. The "Key InterLock Switch" is on the ignition switch. It gets it's signal from the "Shifter Ecu.(on the Shifter)" First get to the shifter; there is a small paddle switch [on the shifter panel, 2" forward of 'P' is a little pop up panel; the switch is directly underneath (shift lock override; I think) check that first; with the key out and pressing the switch{down}; try to shift gears (shifting should work.) Let go of switch {up}; Shifter should not move. This may be tied in with the "Key Inter Lock" directly; I know it is indirectly. If the shift lock override switch is not the problem; next check the ignition switch "Key Interlock solenoid". I'm not sure if you can get to it from underneath or not but, on the right side of the key cylinder is a little square box. put your finger on it and turn the key ("ACC") (your're feeling for a click). You might have into shift to drive. Just make sure whether or not you feel the click. Move shifter to "park"; key to "off" ECT. check every combo and record results. While your are there and if you have a mutlimeter; take off the connector {11 pin rectagle} on the back of the key cylinder. Check for 12-17 ohms on pins 7 & 8. [when looking at the connector, lock tab on top; bottom row pins 3 & 4 from the right.] Repost after you are done with all that.

With car cold; mark the expansion tank to fluid level(should be at the cold line.) Crank and run car. Yeah, I know I saw your other post. Once the car is up to temp (needle is mid way); the themostat is supposed to be open. Re-check your expansion tank. Once everthing is hot and flowing; 'cause it's open; the level should rise. If not; there is blockage. The only things that will block; as far as I can think; are: themostat, heater core, and water pump not working. I think it's going to be the themostat. Read and re-post.

Which clicking sound? That of the soleniod or of the starter trying to crank? I think your saying the solenoid. Anyway; if it it clicks, it wants to start. That's 2 things starter or solenoid. First; jump start it. If that works you need Battery. If noise is the same as you describe: starter. If noise changes: repost a more detailed description of what happens and what you hear.

front passenger floorboard

1992 SC400 Auto, Original stock, No major work; 251,000 MILES.

Are you sure it's not a fuel problem?

And how much did you put in after the change? 4 Qrts. What Eng do you have. What's with the 10W? And by the way; what's the total capacity of oil for your eng?