landar

Just remember that in doing so you will be very dramatically altering the original design and the ride comfort may suffer dramatically as well.

Threadcutter, you rascal! By using the term "plebeian" you deny plebeian status, don't you know? Yes, I am well acquainted with LUT's to linearize inputs. The PTC thing was a compromise to the original parallel resistor (which would really just be a fixed offset bias). The PTC would at least become less of a factor as its temperature increased. Nonetheless, agreed...a kludge and not worth pursuing. The starter is what it is. I used to grouse about the under-engine plastic cover but every time that I remove it and see how impeccably clean that engine is, I bless the boys who had the audacity to place it there.

Hey, watch it TC, you are getting personal now. Only I quit pulling fly wings long ago(still burn an occasional ant though). ;) The bottom line on this thread is that of course the proposed "solution" (parallel resistor) is, at best, a concoction. BTW, the ECU probably has a constant current output circuit of a few milliamps so the resistor would not get hot. The original sensor gets to 300 milliohms@195 F, right? Essentially a short. No engineer worth his salt would design an input circuit that would blow when shorted. The temp sensor is an NTC type device (Negative Temperature Coefficient...as temp goes up, resistance goes down and vice versa). IF you were going to attempt such a thing, gtolds, you would want to counter it with a PTC device(Positive Temperature Coefficient...resistance goes up with temp). That way the PTC would essential remove itself from the circuit as the engine heated up. Of course you would have to attach the PTC device to the engine block. Again..uh, jury rig.

The fogging up is pretty simple. If you lose the charge in your AC system, the AC function tends not to work. Unbeknownst to some, the AC kicks in to dry the air when defrost mode is selected . No AC, no dry air, hence foggy windows. Fix the AC and the fogging should go away.

I can see from a search on Ebay and Craigslist that finding decent stock wheels is not going to be easy...or cheap. Lets see, who was the guy that recently totaled his LS? The buzzards are circling :P

Thanks ThreadCutter. That's what I thought. Part of the forum is made up those wishing to trick out their ride(at the expense of comfort) and the other in pursuit of ride/comfort perfection. I am in the latter. I will stick with stock 16 inch wheels and start looking for a set on Ebay.

Wrong forum, Joe(this is for the LS)...back up to the RX forum --> http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=96 They may be more familiar with this issue.

....and what about wheels? I have Michelin XIce2's on my factory rims and dont plan on dismounting them come spring. Just going to buy new tires and wheels. I think I might try the Michelin Primacy but what should I be looking for in a wheel? Dont need bling but if its bling at an affordable price....maybe I just dont want to mess up the ride, smoothness and handling with some cheapy aftermarket wheels (if that be possible).

So, where is your 72 Chevy now? :whistles:

If it includes the 8 spark plug tube gaskets, as AzHotLS says, its probably a fair price.

Is it part 90201-10101 is this drawing?---> http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1999_LEXU...EPGKA_1302.html If so, looks like it might provide spacing so that the idler does not contact the block. If'n it were me, I would bite the bullet and put it in...but that's just me B) If it were a Dodge, I would not worry about it, (or maybe it would be more critical?) :D Even if she will run, you know it will hound you if you don't make it 100% correct, don't you?

Thanks for the detailed info, PJP!! And welcome to the club. :D

Provided that a wire has not inadvertently fallen off or become loose, it sure sounds like your voltage regulator is not providing field current to the alt.

There probably isn't a "right" answer. Either could work. Obviously the factory gasket worked fine for years. I am not a big fan of the Formed-In-Place Gaskets especially if a factory gasket is available. The FIPG is just messy, IMO.

Have you checked for any blown fuses? Also, if you have access to a voltmeter, start it up and check the charge voltage. Should be in the 14V +/- range.

I just put winter tires on my Lex. I had never heard of putting all-terrains on an LS400 until now. Did the air bag deploy? It does not look like a direct frontal hit. In fact, I am wondering if you could buy another wrecked LS and put her back together? Could be a good summer project ;)

She gave her all to protect you. A testimony to the safety of these beauties(and beasts). Bwilliams, out of curiosity, what type of tires were you running when this happened?

What size is the fuse? Could it possibly have been previously replaced with the wrong type or value? Does the motor work fine but bind when connected to the gear box? Could the wipers possibly be binding excessively on the windshield....sorry, windscreen? You sound like you are knowledgeable about current measurement. You might try connecting the wiper assembly to the car via longer wires without actually bolting it in place just as you have done with the external battery. Only this time use the actual fuse and switch circuit within the car and an ammeter in series to measure the current. You could also put a small resistor (0.5 ohm) in place of the fuse to limit the current draw just in case there is a serious short. A spare brake light bulb can work nicely for a limiting resistor. The filament exhibits low resistance when cold but with too much current will quickly heat up and limit the current. Just what your motor needs during startup(inrush current). This method might give you an idea as to how much your wiper is drawing and help to isolate the problem. As you mentioned, maybe there is another load somewhere on the same circuit and you can disconnect wires to track it down. Keep a fire extinguisher close by :D

Threadcutter...you've got me to thinking about this subject of holding the cam. Wondering about the following: 1) It seems that there might be some cam locations that would be much less likely to snap-rotate than others. For instance, TDC+x. The manufacturer may know about this issue and be able to advise about a "safe" location to park the cam. 2) This would be more work, however back the rockers off and relieve the spring pressure on the loaded valves. Would require pulling the valve covers and then later readjusting the tappets but that's a small price compared to damaged valves. Just buy the cam lock, right?!

Very interesting, Threadcutter. Thank you for bringing up the cam lock issue. I don't believe I have ever heard mention of it in the T-belt replacement write-ups. There was mention of cam locks by sapper_daddy in an earlier thread: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...\&st=0 Is this somewhat the tool to which you are referring ---> http://www.shamanshop.net/store/proddetail...9195.0/file.htm

Lots of threads on this subject. Fixes range from new coolant caps to bleeding the air from the system. Put the following(with quotes) "cold air" in the lower left search box and click on search forum. Should provide hours of entertainment.

You might now check for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If none, you could check the voltage at the pump itself. If no voltage you may need to check some relays or module. But if the system is calling for the pump to be on and no pressure, then the pump is bad. You can also measure the pump resistance. I think it is supposed to be < 3 ohms.

Chugging... Did you happen to get the LS400 "Choo-Choo" edition? B) By chugging, do you mean "surging"? Transmission "hunting"? Is the engine RPM fluctuating? I am having a hard time visualizing this "chugging".

Mike, I have not done this myself...yet. From what I can see in repair procedures, the PS pump needs to come off first. Here is a factory removal procedure for a 2000. They call the alternator a "generator". Sorry I cant be of more help, ie:actual experience,. ;) ch_8_generator_removal_.pdf

Yeah, I was thinking maybe a cell in the battery might be intermittent. Could still be even though relatively new. I would get a voltmeter and check the voltage before starting and with it started just for a baseline. And I would clean the battery cable connections well...on both ends. Though rare to go bad, there is a chassis ground connection that could be loose/corroded.