landar

Welcome Robert! Sorry to hear of the problems with the PS. I am wondering if you used Dextron II/III ATF? It is really difficult being an armchair mechanic not knowing exactly what you did. However, if it were me, I would want to know if the PS pump were still pushing fluid thru the system. So I would pull the return line to the reservoir and put it into a clean gallon container, start the engine for a brief moment and check for flow back into the container. Should be rather robust and empty your reservoir quickly. That method is sometimes used to flush the system so it should not hurt anything. If flow, then maybe you used the wrong type of ATF? If no flow, then something is plugged or the pump is not working.

My 92 service manual says to check radio fuses 1 and 2, and also the dome fuses. Do your dome lights work?

With the symptoms that you describe, I would be looking at the cam and crank sensors. Also, if the distributor caps and rotors have not been changed recently, do that first thing.

I have gone thru the starter replacement before and know that there are a lot of connectors to put back into place. Miss one and it may not run correctly...just as you are witnessing. Again, go over every inch of the wiring harnesses and double check connections. Assume nothing, check everything.

Welcome Michael. It is most likely just a connector that needs put back together. Go back over everything very carefully and I think you will find either a disconnected connector, not fully pushed back together or perhaps damaged when removed. Think simple.

Thanks much for the info, Patrick! And welcome to the Club.

Welcome Damon! Sweet looking LS. And it sounds like you are already pretty knowledgable about it and the normal issues. Are you getting your son involved in working on it? Good father/son 'projects' ahead!

You do not want to bypass it. That happens automatically with the FP relay in its 'normal' position. Otherwise the pump is running full tilt all the time and that is not good. Now, since you are getting a higher reading than spec., did you zero out (calibrate) your ohmmeter? Often, they will read higher due to lead resistance. Just put the two leads together and however much above zero that it reads, that may be your culprit. Presuming you are not reading the resistor thru all of the wiring in the car...that adds up too. BTW, the range of the resistor is 0.67 to 0.79. Finally, and take no offense, you may have one of those cheap Harbor Freight ohmmeters...not all that accurate...especially at low readings.

So, the engine tries to run when you crank and spray starter fluid but not when you purposely jumper the fuel pump and hear it running? If you are absolutely sure the fuel pump is powered then you need to get on the fuel rail and check for pressure with FP and B+ jumpered (pump motor powered). I would check for voltage to the pump at the rear seat as you did before just to be sure. The motor may be spinning but something could be wrong with the pump assembly such that there is no pressure.

I have come across some posts that seem to suggest that the fuel pump relay may be in the trunk near the fuel filler cap on a 1994. Especially since you mentioned you have an 'air pump' where the relay would normally be. You might want to research this a bit more.

Denny, I am looking forward to dropping the top and tooling around in the country with fall colors on a brisk Autumn day...with the heated seats on of course! Then it goes into storage and my Tundra takes the brunt of Winter.

Yes, the check connector is in the engine compartment. It is actually labeled "Diagnostics" on my 92. I am pointing to it in the attached picture. Take the cap off and look at the inside of it for the connector pinouts. You will see "B+" and "FP". That's what you want.

I have already ditched the run flats with the Continental tires mentioned above. BIG difference. So much smoother and enjoyable. I will never put RFT back on.

Tommy, here is a circuit diagram of the power to the fuel pump. Study it carefully. You can basically bypass the "circuit opening" relay and send power directly to the pump by jumping the +B and FP pins on the breakout connector in the engine compartment.

Tommy, you can also pull the duct work up to the throttle body and spritz some starter fluid into the throttle body while cranking to see if the engine will try to start.

Hi Bill. I have the same MXV4s on my LS and have to agree on how nice they are. I do not know about the MXM4's but you might want to go over to the Tirerack site www.tirerack.com , as they have many reviews on tires. Also, some tire shops have a lot of knowledge on tires and some will also guarantee that you love the tire or you bring it back and they swap them out for something else. Not all, but some. Takes some of the stress out of the decision. Let us know what you finally decide upon.

Just got done replacing brake pads on my 2002 LS430 and wanted to share with you just how easy it is to do. So, if you are at all hesitant, or have little confidence, rejoice. This is a job you can do. In all of my years of replacing brake pads, I have never seen a system so well thought-out. Kudos to Lexus on the LS430. In fact, raising the car and taking the wheels off and putting them back on takes more time than replacing the pads. There are video tutorials you should watch first but this would be a good first DIY for someone. The passenger side brakes are just slightly more difficult due to a pad sensor connection but still pretty simple. The job is literally, pull a pin, slide out the old, compress the pistons back in (easy with a larger screwdriver of small pry bar), slide in the new, reinsert the pin and done.

Is there a link?

Tom, you should never drive a Lexus to Walmart. Too classy. ^_^ I just want to point out that you said it was running fine when you shut it off then when you came out, it would crank but not start. I would not fixate on the computer at this point because it may very well be something else like ignition or fuel delivery. With 300k miles it could be a lot of things. And depending upon when the last timing belt was done, I suppose it is possible the belt jumped. Not likely but possible. So, I would focus on checking fuel and spark. Could be as simple as distributor caps/rotors. Ignition coils also go out after a lot of mileage. Maybe fuel pump is shot. Try to isolate between fuel and spark. You also mention hitting the dash and getting the gauges working again. Bad connection(s) on the circuit board and you will have to remove it and examine.

I sold the LS400 to my son and he is driving it. Yes, I have already warmed up to the 'pie' plate wheels...kinda reminds me of the older Porsche roadsters from the 50's. I will definitely keep them even if I do use the newer rims.

Well this sure is lively board! ^_^ I am not crazy about the 'pie plate' rims on my SC, so I found some 2010 SC430 rims with almost new Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires for only $500. Score.

LMS, I would guess the timing belt/tensioner/water pump to be in the $1500 range. Then the spark plugs probably $400. Then the brakes, $800. So, what, $2700? However, and this is a BIGGY...you get free coffee! Totally worth it. :whistles:

I do not believe the PS pulley would need to be removed. I am really confused on your AC compressor comment as it is way over to the right of the tensioner pulley. Here is a pic of my 98 LS as I remove the tension on the serpentine belt. Looks like a few nuts/bolts to remove and it is off.

Ok. Heres my 'figment'.

This is our first convertible. I was thinking of getting a Miata with retractable hardtop but thought the SC430 was just a better built machine. Safer too. I now have the unenviable task of trying to sell my 02 LS430 which I absolutely love. Even with low miles(now 69k) and excellent shape, no one in the local area will be interested and I will have a tough sell ahead.