landar

Kind of on a whim, I bought a 2004 SC430. Some of you may know that I am an LS kind of guy with my LS400 and LS430. But I just could not resist this Absolute Red roadster. I bought it off of a retired doctor who bought it new and has only put 12,500 miles on it. So, it is pretty much like brand new. I bought it, drove it home and parked it in my garage. Now I am feeling like I rushed into it and second guessing my decision. Should I keep it and drive it? Or sell it and keep the LS? Don't you wish your 'problems' were all like this? ^_^ (ps...yes, Jim...I need ANOTHER intervention!).

Craig, I think you have posted a diagram from a 98-00. The 1994 is slightly different. For one, the strut rods have rubber cushions on the end instead of the 'hole' (ring) design of 98-00.

The CEL might come on...if she drove the car on a regular basis. Thats what I would be doing despite the high idle. I would drive that puppy and see what happens when it is fully hot and see if I could encourage the computer to throw a code.

Whatever the technical name, it is a measure of the "mass of air" going thru the throttle body. In any case, its job is to indicate to the computer how much air is flowing thru the system and how much fuel to mix with the air. Now, the IACV is kind of a 'bypass' around the throttle body...a controlled vacuum leak if you will. However, the IACV 'leak' does not show up on the air flow reading. The computer would of course know what value it is setting the IACV, primarily thru the RPM signal. I still wonder if the IACV is not the culprit. Perhaps some missed carbon on the value or seat?

Sorry, I missed that post on unplugging the IACV. So, it sounds like the engine runs ok in drive but the idle is high. I would look at the throttle body position sensor and the MAF as suggested. One at a time, however. I would look at this first -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html Maybe even this to make sure your throttle body butterfly is not sticking(make sure you properly cleaned it) -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/throttlebody.html Then there is the MAF (attached)...Be very careful with these sensors as they can be somewhat delicate.

Thats good that the car idles smoothly in drive or reverse, albeit a bit high (900 is a little higher than 650). And it is normal for a car to want to move when in drive or reverse and you let off the brake. It won't move very fast but it will move. I 'idle' out of my garage in reverse every day. So, thats just normal stuff. I am beginning to believe that, despite 'good' tests on the IACV, it is still misbehaving...sticking perhaps. What I would do next is to disconnect the IACV and see what the RPMs do. Granted, it may idle too high or too low but see if the 'loping' is changed or gone. BTW, I am very impressed with your automotive skills, Magdalena!

It seems that the computer is 'hunting' for a correct RPM probably because of a bad sensor or connector. The computer tries to close the 'loop' based upon all of the input sensor data. The computer also has to 'relearn' settings whenever the battery is disconnected for long periods but I do not think that is causing your problem. Did you try driving the car or putting it in drive to see how it behaves? Take it for a spin around the block. Let it fully warm up so that the computer is in the (hopefully) close loop mode. Then see how it idles.

Oh...and since you cleaned the throttle body, you might check the throttle body position sensor.

I am kinda waiting for the guys on CL to come up with a solution. ^_^ But until then... Have you tried driving the car in this condition? What happens when you put the car in 'drive' (foot on the brake). With a load, does it act the same way? I am wondering if something might be wrong with the MAF but just speculating at this point. Have you checked for any codes? (Even though the CEL may not be on). After working on a car, the most likely suspects are a missed wire or vacuum line. Go back over those areas with a fine-toothed comb and make absolutely certain all connections are firmly back together.

The plug is not going in because it it new and is an interference fit part. I would try to press it into place (I am guessing there is not enough room to tap it in). You might be able to find or make a simple tool to press it in. Like a piece of PVC (a coupler maybe?). Using a pry bar against the firewall and PVC tool, you may be able to work(press) it into place. Just a thought.

I just looked at my sons' 92 LS400 and think I see the bracket. Those two small bolts in the top of the bracket which you have removed hold the wiring loom. It also looks like maybe there is 1 - 2 inches of clearance between the back of the bracket and the firewall. It is a tough, tight spot to work. I think that bracket is formed heavy gauge sheet metal so I would still try prying that bracket back toward the firewall to see if you could gain enough room to work. When done you can pry it back into place. If you feel uncomfortable doing that, you will need to get at the bolts holding the bracket. Thats about the best advice I can offer at this point.

Magda, I feel your pain. On the brackets, it *may* be possible to just bend them out of the way but not sure w/o looking. I have done that before on certain brackets, then just bend them back later. Those bolts are in a tough place. You just have to reach back there and do it all by feel. Takes a lot of patience. I have never tried to replace these back plugs as they were not leaking and I just left them alone. As far as putting the valve cover gaskets back in place, I usually place them inside the valve cover first and then set the cover on the cylinder head. This is where FIPG may come in handy to hold them in place. The wiring harness is a pain as you can see and very brittle. These feed the fuel injectors among other things and you will need to try and slip the valve cover underneath/over them or you will need to remove the brackets holding the harness. We changed the valve cover gaskets when re-doing the starter so the entire intake manifold and harness was removed. I 'broke' a couple of the clips for the fuel injector connections because they were so brittle but just plugged it back together w/o clipping and it runs fine.

Why do you say no FIPG landar. In the manual for my 98 it clearly states to remove all the old FIPG and place seal packing to certain places on the front bearing cap. The FIPG was the reason it was so hard to break loose. I just assume that the 97 procedure would be no different even though I don't have the manual for a 97. I should clarify...I meant no FIPG without changing the seal as well. It is ok to use some FIPG as the manual states but I would go very easy on it. I just dislike the messiness of FIPG although its a cheap way of sealing. The factory uses FIPG for the transmission pan seal but when I pulled the pan and changed the filter, I put the pan back in with a gasket and stayed away from FIPG. Same for the water pump. So, I did not mean to imply that you should never use FIPG, I just do not like to go crazy with it like the factory seemed to do. You can get a good seal with the proper gaskets and a minimum of FIPG.

If not leaking, I would just leave those front bearing caps alone. Do it right when you change the timing belt. No FIPG.

That was a good idea to try wiggling the bolts in the cap holes but I think I would probably do your other tip: take a rubber mallet or wood and gently tap the caps where the bolts attached. Tap one side, then the other, working back and forth until it breaks loose. Using a rubber mallet should be gentle on the aluminum. Still, I would not bash on it too hard. Just use some gentle but forceful tapping back and forth, front side and back side. If you cannot get the mallet head in there, you might use a wooden dowel pin to reach the cap. If it still won't come out then back up and revisit what might be holding it. BTW, was it leaking oil back there?

Freddie, I think you did well on the price. Sometimes, I wish I could do likewise but for some strange reason, I just cannot take my car to the shop for this kind of work. And its not just about saving money(though that is a great incentive)...its also about knowing I did it myself, knowing it was done right (well, as right as I know how), about learning new things, and about tackling 'mountains' (thats what it sometimes looks like).

Yeah, in trying to include the latest whiz bang gadgets they might have over engineered. But hey, they want you to trade in that old car for a new one! I did not expect it to be cheap. If I were you, coppens, I would be looking at a junkyard replacement and not the auto tinting one either. Just a regular one. A good auto glass shop might be able to make the repair fairly reasonably (under $200...maybe?). I am sure they have seen it all before. Or you could try replacing it yourself using just the mirror or a complete used assembly (as long as the colors match).

The mirrors on high-end cars use a phenomenon known as electrochromism. Basically, there is a fluid or gel sandwiched between panes of glass which, when excited by an electrical signal, cause the reflective properties of the glass to change. Typical failures are having this fluid or gel leak out. Older Acura's are infamous for the rearview mirrors leaking fluid onto the shifter console. Here is a little more info... http://www.answers.com/Q/What_is_an_electrochromic_rearview_mirror

Plugs coming loose? Yes, if they were not torqued properly. I have even heard of plugs 'freezing' (welding) into place. They are under a lot of pressure so they must be properly torqued. Sounds like whoever replaced the plugs forgot or just snugged them by hand and underestimated. In any case, glad you are back in business and thanks for posting the outcome. BTW, WD40 may not last long. If it does this again, consider using a better lubricant like a teflon based lube or grease.

Joe, my guess is that it is the slide pins 'creaking' as they move inward. A chattering as they move. But it could also be the pads as well. As you might imagine, there is a tremendous amount of pressure exerted on the pads/calipers as the brakes are pressed. The reason your noise is 'fainter' with the engine off is due to the brake booster. I believe the pads start out with a thickness of about 11 mm and should be replaced before reaching 1 mm. So, you are in-between. If you are handy, you might consider trying to lube the slide pins. New pads for the front are fairly inexpensive depending on brand...certainly under $100. And not that hard to do yourself. You might consider, as VBdenny suggested, just having new pads installed, slides lubed, new shims installed. Rotors would be the most expensive but if you do not have a shimmy in the steering wheel when braking, they are probably good. And finally, realize that you are suffering from Lex-itus as we who own one of these fine machines often do. You probably would not give this creaking a second thought if this were a Ford or Chevy but a Lexus, especially an LS? Unthinkable. I know, I suffer the Lexus OCD too.

Phil, according to the .pdf that Craig posted, you should be able to interrogate the system to find out how many keys are currently registered. And, even if you will go over four, the system will erase the oldest one and replace it. So, if your existing key gets 'erased', you just add it again and it erases the next oldest key on the list (which is probably lost...if there are even that many keys). It sounds like the key entry is 'rotating' so when you add a key it erases the oldest and replaces it. But you can only have four key codes active at any one time.

Brent, it might help to know why your 140A fusible link was blown. Did you reverse the battery cables during a jump? Those big fuses do not blow unless something fairly catastrophic happens. And it might be that you blew out an ECU of some sort, the one controlling the NAV controls. Also, it is not enough, IMO, to just check fuses. You have to get a voltmeter on the fuse itself to verify that 12V is present.

Steven, thanks much for posting that link! Many 'play' both forums and forget to post the solution back to one of them. This will keep things in sync as to this particular problem.

Cliff...were you balancing on your nose when you pressed the button? Under a full moon of course ^_^ Seriously, I believe you have to hold the button until you get a 'ding', then release. Also, it is possible that your TPS (Tire Pressure Sensor) may be defective. Or your spare tire may be low as well. In any case, I am surprised that the shop which replaced your tire did not reset the system for you.

You did the right thing. Keep an eye on it though...sometimes the winning bidder does not come through and the owner has to take another(lower) offer.