schott1984

Think I should go with the 512, or the 912 series that's supposed to replace the 512 series?

Haha, rotary engine mustang... With pistons... What a jacka$$

Yeah, my original OE connectors are messed up. Still functioning for now though.

Since you worded it that way... Did the V8 Soarer have a manual option?

I WANNA SEE A PIC OF IT ON AN SC

No Idea... Sorry.

Check it out guys. Just nosing around and found this. Haven't seen many products like this for the SC400 until now. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml#main Just FYI.

Just blew the one driver side door speaker. Just playing the stereo too loud, with too much bass I guess. They're old, they're going to deteriorate and break. Still sounds friggin' good for a stock 14 year old stereo!

If you don't want the factory amp you can purchase a amp bypass harness that you connect to the head unit and bypasses the factory amp. The harness has RCA type plugs output insted of high level output. Connect RCA plugs from the head unit to your new aftermarket amp. than run the speaker wires to the plug on the old amp (so you don't have to run new wires to all the speakers) and you just saved time. Hope this helps. you can call shellbys car sterio in long beach, ca for the bypass harness. I bet that information is really hard to come by. thanks maxlmt! :)

Funny, because you have to open to door in order to get the panel off. What came first, the chicken or the egg?

Oh ya. Either way, it was a problem and you found and fixed it. Just wanted to clarify. Didn't mean to bash ya!

Dunno about the door panel, i think they run $500+ at lexus. Otherwise, ebay. The manual you want is at that website. http://techinfo.toyota.com You pay $10 for a day of access to the server, and you open and save all the pdfs of the factory service manual, and you have it forever.

http://techinfo.toyota.com/ Full FSM there. Pay $10 for a day subscription, open and save all the PDFs. Will take you a couple hours (it did for me) just because there's so many files to open and save. Well worth it though! I would be interested in a way to have lower seats as well. I still want leather though... Could the stock ones be lowered? I feel like a giant driving this car! haha.

1993 SC400 2. Problems with mine that I didn't notice until after I bought it: - Power-steering pump leaking into alternator, alternator failed two months after purchase. COMMON - 12-disc changer didn't work, (knew that before purchase) - alignment problem; wearing insides of front tire tread faster than outside, still haven't had it looked at. - rust forming in front of rear wheels, in the rocker-panel. Dirt and debris gets stuck in there, and traps moisture. not very noticeable...yet. - shocks leaking - gauge needles out in spots 3. I have the nak, it sounds great in my opinion. However, I blew a speaker shorty after purchase; but they are 14 years old! 4. I REALLY WISH I had chrome rims! I love my sunroof...

I thought that hose was a water drain, there's two, and ones from the gas filler, and ones from the sunroof area... At least that's what I thought. Am I mistaken?

I keep mine on PWR unless I feel like driving like an a$$hole. It doesn't make a huge difference unless you're driving like that anyway, in which case, you'd be sucking gas anyway. Off the line, PWR makes no differnce from what that chart shows, because under full acceleration, the kickdown is engaged, and there's no difference in upshifting with that engaged. However, I do notice a HUGE difference with my 400 in regards to my driving habits. If I drive like a grandma, I can go through about $50/week in gas, but if I dive like an a$$ all week, I can use $150 haha.

I'll answer what I can... 3. The alarm is activated whenever you lock the doors either using the key button, or the inside electric lock button, given that the key is not in the ignition. 4. As far as I know, the switch has two settings: "NORMal" and "PWR" or power. ECT means Electronically Controlled Transmission, or something like that. It changes the shift points and the way the trans shifts. See the attachment. 5. Overdrive as I understand it at least is just a 4th, of fifth gear, depending on which year you have. So it just improves gas milage by keeping the RPMs down. And btw.. It is a big car haha, pretty friggin heavy for the size of it. services.pdf

Yeah I didn't even try it with the alternator still in, i let mine leak long enough that it killed the alternator, and I had to change both at the same time. After I took the alternator out, it made sense to change the pump before putting the new one in, because for one, you're likely to get tranny fluid all over the good alternator.

It's a tight fit, everything is most accessible from under the car I found. Need a 22mm open end/eye-end wrench for that pressure line. A socket won't fit. I took all the mounting bolts/nut off before removing that line, be ready to catch some fluid if it hasn't yet been drained. I removed the pump from underneath the car if I remember correctly, but another thing is, I already had the alternator removed, and that may be a problem for you if your's isn't removed. It might be worth while to remove it, it's not too hard. I didn't take any air intake parts off either, which made disconnecting the hose above pretty difficult.

btw: you can get fsms from: http://techinfo.toyota.com/ $10 for a day subscription, spend a couple hours opening and saving, and you have the whole FSM. Well worth it.

29lbs for bolts, 32 for the nut that you go through the pully to remove, and 36 for the pressure hose connection. install in that order too, bolts, nut, hose. I don't think I installed mine in that order, but that's what the FSM says. Actually, I just attached it. powerste.pdf

Ya, all I need is the front door ones. All the others are still fine.

1992 SCs have cornering lights, not fog lights... Unless someone changed yours.

Hey all, I need to buy at least a driver-side nak speaker. The mid-range 4" one. Anyone know where/have one to sell? Also... I can't find a FREE tutorial for taking them out...

Did the swap yesterday. Took me and a friend about... 4-6 hours, kinda lost track. Needed a 22mm open-end wrench for the pressure hose bolt, which we didn't have, used a 7/8", which worked fine. The red loc-tite they use on the pump mounting bolts were a pain in the !Removed! to get off, but got them eventually. Getting the air outta the PS system took a long time. It had me freaked out for a while, because the pump was making all kinds of scary noises. I bought both parts from a guy that was parting out Lexes on ebay for $150, they were froma car with 52k miles on it. He cleaned them up real good, and they weren't oily when I got them. For the pump swap, you need to order part number 44327, it's a non-reusable copper clip gasket for the pressure hose. cost me less than $5. Another thing... The squeeze clamps on the feed hose between the pump and the reservoir were a real !Removed!. They're two piece clamps, and when I tried to squeeze them down, they tended to get all mis-aligned. And that hose is so rigid, that it was hard to detach/attach in the tight spot it's in. Would be an easier job with the airbox removed. Maybe this thread will help someone down the road.