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I would suggest using a digital voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across the IAT at ambient and add enough resistance to increase the overall, IAT plus resistor, voltage drop by 10%....20% at the most.

The '95 LS uses two bulbs in the headlamp assembly, three if you include the fog light. One of the headlamps bulbs is dual filament wherein one of the filaments provides low beam coverage. The second bulb is single filament and is used along with the high beam section of the dual filament bulb for "good" high beam coverage. This second bulb is also used as the DRL light source if the vehicle is of canadian origin as mine is. The HID hi-lo coverage is so good, excellent, that I have disabled the power to the second, single filament, high beam bulb except for DRL use. The HID hi-lo is accomplished with an electric solenoid in the base of the bulb that moves the HID arc center back and forth from the low beam position to the high beam position when the high beam wire has voltage. We also have a '92 in the "family" and I plan to try another hi-lo set there soon. IMMHO it was the early LS that really had POOR headlight pattern coverage. You could adjust the beam upward and have good low beam coverage and have the high beam illuminate the night sky or... weird, when i converted mine, the high beam is so bad that i dont even use it and i didnt disable the high beam bulb. what kit did you use to upgrade? From the Ebay vendor linked above, previous post. And don't let anyone sell you anything other than 4300K for "color". WWEST, that ebay link looks prety good! I am thinking of upgrading to that in my 1990 LS, was the installation a bear? and why 4300K? Installation wasn't simple but also wasn't a "bear". 4300K is closest to what our human eyes have adapted to over eons.

In all the time I have owned the '92 LS400, purchased new, I have not been able to find one, at least not a decent one and/or one without the "L" logo.

I have a K&N in my '95, and I love it. I don't know about throttle response and hp gains, but it does not make the car any louder at all, andI picked up an extra mpg on the hwy Hmmm.... Most of us cruise along on the hwy at a relatively constant speed and therefore mostly only a partially open throttle. Resulting in a K&N, or no filter at all, being of no help since the throttle plate itself is the PRIMARY restriction to engine intake airflow. You must do a LOT of passing (2 lane hwy..??) at WOT to avoid the throttle plate restriction being the PRIMARY restriction to engine intake airflow, and therefore take "some" advantage of the K&N free flow. (which is why I love mine; plus, I'm not having to buy new paper filters all the time.). Just don't get carried away when you oil it, and you won't have any problems. How do you avoid at least some minimum level of oil wicking from the filter and into the high volume/velocity airflow at WOT throttle and high engine RPM..?? Lots of former K&N users have quit using them because of inadvertent and/or unavoidable contamination of the MAF/IAT sensor. Oil film buildup first and then subsequent dust particles on top of that compromises the ability of the engine ECU for fuel management.

I think it would be a SURE bet that the bolt tightens opposite the direction the engine turns.

Carson Toyota for parts. But first remove the pre-tensioner fuse and see if that solves your problem.

The 4300 does not appear bright enough to me. Has a more yellowish-look to it. I have 5000 HIDs on another car and they are bright white. I have 6000 HIDs on another car and they start going towards the blueish look. Is anyone else unhappy with their OEMs HIDs? Thanks Andy Being unhappy with 4300K HID "color" is like, a parallel, to being unhappy with our sun insofar as human vision is concerned.

That, to me, would indicate that the compressors are failing due to "slugging", ingesting liquid refrigerant. Do you feel the cooling capability is satisfactory up until the seals fail? In that case the expansion valve is probably working properly and your last two compressors have failed most likely due to refrigerant overcharging. There is also the possibility the compressor clutch is remaining engaged with the electricity off.

Assuming the IAT sensor is a thermistor with a negative temperature coefficient it increases resistance as the incoming airflow grows colder. So adding resistance in series, within "reason", would be the proper approach. Personally I would rig the switch such that the resistor is only in the circuit when the throttle plate is wide open or nearly so. So your idea should work but the HP gain may be only 10-15% and therefore might not be really noticeable.

Yes AC system. I will look as soon as my sweaty wife gets home with it (no AC). Is that the engine compartment or inside? Have you checked the sight glass for refrigerant flow, bubbling as the compressor starts up and after it stops..??

Put it in writing, email, making it less likely of a denial. Can't remember his name at the moment, Jon maybe, but cc to the technology specialist.

It is my understanding that only the RX300's (mostly the '01-03) recommended maintenance schedule was revised by the factory from no ATF drain/refill for the life of the vehicle to 15,000 miles. DBW was adopted for the RX300 and forward in order to "protect the drive train", alleviate localized heating, OVER-heating, of the ATF. I assume it's possible that an RX330 with a transaxle "fix/update/reflash" that actually eliminates the 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation might require ATF attention. "...However the RX330 has a different tranny..." Not really. In order for the Camry transaxle to be used for the RX300 it had to be ungraded, be made more robust, heavier gears, clutches, etc. That proved to be not so easy with a sideways mounted engine and trnasaxle assembly so something had to go/give. So the ATF pressure holding/sustaining accumulator was dropped from the design. Without the accumulator the transaxle's gear type ATF pump volume/flow was insufficient alone to sustain two sequential gear changes, say an upshift followed by a quick downshift. While those quick sequential shift instances are fairly rare they were often enough in some cases to result in premature failure of many '99 and '01 RX300 transaxles on the order of 70-80,000 miles. It appears that Toyota/Lexus QUICK fix was to increase the pumping volume of the gear type ATF pump for the '01 to '03 RX300s. And then that resulted in localized overheating of the ATF. So the RX330/350 have the very same transaxle design as the early RX300's but with DBW to assure that a second gear change, downshift, will have enough time to complete before the engine torque begins to rise.

Check out this post from the LOC site. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ic=41598&hl I just joined this forum in search of information on the very problem that you are describing. My new RX350 bothers me the most in slower traffic situations by downshifting and giving the appearance of a slipping transmission. This car only has 3000 miles on it, and I have already taken it back to the dealership with this complaint. The mechanic did acknowledge the problem on a test drive, and then told me that it was a normal function. He described the transmission as a "Learning Transmission", and said it would get used to my driving characteristics after a while. He also acknowleged that the ES350 has the same transmission, and does the same thing. If anyone out there reading this forum has had the same problem, or knows of any fixes, please let me know Thanks, Gordon Fish Sandpoint, ID On vacation last year I noticed that a new Mazda minivan and a Chrysler Sebring did the same thing. Apparently these new V6 engines are so POWERFULL that when coupled with the most optimal O/D gear ratios they can pull the car along at a very reasonable crusing speed at an exceptionally low operating RPM. Basically these engines are often, using multiple O/D ratios, being operated in cruise right on the CUSP of lugging. Almost, but not quite at the point of encountering engine knock/ping. BUT.... The instant, the VERY instant, any additional engine loading (slight incline..) is encountered the transaxle MUST be downshifted. Best FE, ABSOLUTE best FE.... But for FWD and F/AWD Toyota and Lexus vehicles this whole scenerio is exacerbated by the transaxle design flaw incorporated as a result of the design of the original RX300 transaxle. Due to the abolition of the transaxles ATF pressure holding/sustaining accumulator back late in the last century these transaxles cannot support two gear changes in quick succession.

I just joined this forum in search of information on the very problem that you are describing. My new RX350 bothers me the most in slower traffic situations by downshifting and giving the appearance of a slipping transmission. This car only has 3000 miles on it, and I have already taken it back to the dealership with this complaint. The mechanic did acknowledge the problem on a test drive, and then told me that it was a normal function. He described the transmission as a "Learning Transmission", and said it would get used to my driving characteristics after a while. He also acknowleged that the ES350 has the same transmission, and does the same thing. If anyone out there reading this forum has had the same problem, or knows of any fixes, please let me know Thanks, Gordon Fish Sandpoint, ID An explanation: Google for: wwest abolition and/or wwest hesitation dbw

Check with Lexus, they, the "factory" are often compensating for premature trnasaxle failures for the 99 and 00 Rx300.

"...looking for a USED Lexus RX400h...." Well, good luck with THAT.....!!!

Just a suggestion... Put a piston at BDC, Bottom Dead Center, compression stroke, fill the cylinder with fresh oil and install the spark plug. Just remember not to crank the engine until you have removed the spark plug and cranked the engine over enough times to expunge the oil. Never tried it myself but I keep running upon this question.

It depends on the tires' inflation and wear level...... 4.4% is probably within reasonable tolerance. In 100 miles you could probably accomplish that much variation by always being on the inside of most of the curves.

My '01 911/996 came without the DRL circuit so I simply connected, wire jumper, the seat heating power source at the fuse panel into the street/marker/parking/tail light circuit. All bulbs are converted to LEDs so no real worry about power consumption nor burnout. The 911 came with a 5W halogen european DRL bulb which I changed out to a 3W Luxeon LED.

You're correct, DBW was adopted for the Camry in 2002. But the TSB concerning the downshift delay/hesitation wasn't issued until the August of 2003...?? Have you yet checked to be sure the ATF level is low, or too high...??

If your ES300 isn't DBW, e-throttle, you may be about to experience a premature transaxle failure (78,000 miles would be right on the "nose".) like those for the 99-00 RX series. DBW was adopted (in 2003??) to "protect the drive train" in favor of endangering the driver and passengers via a 1-2 second downshift delay/hesitation.

Now that I think about it a bit deeper it shouldn't surprise us, given the level of torque, HIGH level of torque, that can be "delivered" to the front drive wheels of the RXh, that TC cannot be disabled. "That" level of torque at the front can quickly turn DANGEROUS, not giving the driver time to react.

No knock/ping sensors...??

"..we could ponder all day about how/why..." Not necessary. Ask yourself why the RX400h was designed for performance, as in 0-60MPH times, vs FE..?? Too many "boy-racers" in the US market. Our government should outlaw advertising that uses acceleration rate, 0-60MPH times, as a marketing point.

Strange, somewhat... The RX400h ICE has a compression ratio of 10.8:1, same as the standard RX engine, and premium fuel, 91 octane or better, is recommended in order to avoid degraded performance. Yet the RXh ICE only produces 208HP vs 268HP for the RX350. How is that done...?? Limit the RPM at the upper end or just not ever open the throttle plate fully..??