Erich

I am guessing few Lexus owners here do major repairs to these cars <grin>

Whoa......read the first post The donor engine is a 1994. Its going into a 1991. The only difference could be TRACS...which both have. The 1994 and 1991 are the same and interchangeable. The ecu would be 1990 to 1992 w/TRACS. The 1994 ECU would not be needed nor is it compatible with the 1991's wiring harness. A 1998 VVTi has nothing to do with this swap nor was it mentioned. 1990 to 1997 engines and transmissions are interchangeable. 1 Getting back to the question. Can the engine + transmission be removed and installed as a pair. Or will i have to fuss around with dropping the transmission and pulling the motor.

Where are you in Illinois? I have run into transmission problems with my 1991 before i eventually blew the trans out in Oak Brook on my way home to Chicago. There have been several posts on the trunk wiring causing problems. I found on mine that the shift module on the trans itself was actually cracked, open to elements and corroded inside. This switch is accessible from under the car where the shifter and linkage attaches. to the trans.

I picked up a low mileage 89k mile driveline from a babied 94 Anniversary Edition. The timing belt and bearings were just done, and has new oem wires etc. I am going to swap it into my 91 that has a blown trans. Anyone had luck doing it with trans and engine paired together?

Those cars are good for triple then than whats on the odometer.

I drove it 200 miles so far and the problem is gone. I need to adjust the switch on the lift it is slightly off. So the switch was bad.

Replace a hose when it looks soft, dry cracking, or when it feels like its bulging out at the ends. On modern cars i see the radiator tanks crack before the hoses!!

There is NO BROKEN WIRE, NO FRAYED WIRE. Read what i wrote. This post is geared towards finding a broken wire that is not there. I tore my trunk all apart...stripped wires back to find NO BROKEN WIRES. I still need to clean all that mess up. I put the photo's up to show someone what i had to do and what i went through. Salt and water corroded the cracking part and the nut on the shifter. I sheared the nut off trying to swap the selector switch. I retrieved a used one from a SC400...that didn't shear off when i took it off. I replaced it..still need to adjust it but the light went off. What i would appreciate is someone pin pointing where the actual wires break. I do not believe the wires break randomly over a 3 feet of wire i checked in my trunk. BTW, I am working on a multiport injection onto an olds 455 for a 67 cutlass 442 convert. I noticed the 66 in your sig.

I have a modified arm now that is thinner and will fit on the stud and can allow me to put a nut back on it. If anyone has this problem. I grabbed a couple extra stock brackets.

good answer. I suspect this may be a problem. I i think i will look into this.

Don't do the first option. The second can be a bit tricky. If you want a rebuilt OEM replacement. I do them outright for my local customers. I use the masts off ebay and then take them apart, clean replace gear and repack them. I also take the mast tube out and check for corrosion. I post them up on ebay sometimes.

its leaking cat to exhaust...not manifold to cat. Unless the middle cat is clogged? The indicator of a clogged catalytic converter is when it glows red. Mine are not.

My 1991 is leaking BAD on both sides. This happened ever since i had a tow almost 2 years ago. I have tried several times to fix with new gaskets...they leak even worse. I have cut bolts off and replaced those as well. I really don't want to replace the catalytic converters. I have looked at several possibilities to replacing the joints. I fear if i start taking this apart I will break more and have to replace more. If I find i find I have to replace the cats i might just buy the headers and make my own exhaust stem and illegally take all my cats off and the 2 mufflers and just leave 2 mufflers. I have used exhaust gasket maker with OEM exhaust seals...one time even doubling them up. Anyone else have the same problems?

EBC makes good compounds for aggressive driving. I recommend them if you tear down the streets and are trying to evade police or you autocross your LS400. Keep in mind every day you will need to allow some pad warm up. Your probably better wit OEM or OEM replacement compounds. I am looking into ceramics.

Ever since i brought my high mileage 1991 LS400 home the trans never shifted correctly. During all the wet chicago weather one night my trans stopped shifting and R came on my cluster along with the actual trans mode i was in. I was far from my shop and at a friends house at 2am..i worked on it until i fell asleep. Basically i TORE my trunk all apart exposed all wires looking for broken or loose. I was puzzled because everything was good and most oddly my reverse lights were also on. So i assumed there were no ground issues nor problems that everyone says is typical of the early. I came across a post talking about the PRNDL switch on the trans...anyhow. I went to grab my spare one off my spare engine and trans(i keep alot spare parts for my car) I went to take the 12mm nut off the bar and SNAP! I also managed to take the nut that keeps the switch on and broke that too. I stopped by a toyota dealer with my broken part off my trans to get a price $280 for the switch. I am like forget that, i salvage parts for a living and there are a bunch of C4C V8 cars in the yards. I pulled one of a 1994 SC400...the part was clean...12mm nut that holds the bracket came right off and i left the loosened nut on the switch on and pried it right off. I get back to shop tonight to change oil and fix this. I used a torch to heat the nut up..tried that SNAP! The stud is actually very rusty. I actually can't believe Toyota uses such a small shaft. Its too fragile and was quite corroded. I pried the switch off and the rest of the shaft is quite corroded. I notised the circuite coating plastic on back is cracking off the one i took my 100k spare trans, the SC400 one. The one off my 1991 with 270k miles was in very bad shape..you could see where water got in and it corroding, and it looked like it was melting. I put the switch on from the SC400, plugged it in, bolted on...pushed the shift arm back on(No nut...very unsafe). Turn car on...problem GONE. Started it up..carefully put into gear(arm is not bolted on) and drove it...PROBLEMS GONE. Now this car randomly would not shift correctly for over 2 years... That appears to be resolved. So for those people here that attack everyone when there R light is on the dash and trans is not shifting. You need to keep this in mind. I have a feeling this problem i have is prone to cars in the rust belt. Also if you try to take the nut off IT WILL SNAP. I will try to rework the arm to make it thinner and then put a new nut on it..there is some threads left. Otherise i need to take trans apart or replace it. I will post photos of this new issue. I am also swapping a 95-97 gated shifter into my 91 when i fix this. The one on the left is from my 100k spare trans which i broke. The one on Right is the bad part from my 270k car.

Nevermind. I see the 95-00 have no bracket. I ordered these calipers rebuilt for $59 plus $25 core from a part store. I ordered OEM Toyota ball joints off ebay for $139 shipped. Now i am just picking my rotors and pads.

Do i need the caliper brackets from 95-00 brake systems. I just picked up 93-94 2 pot's but i think i am going to just order the 95 calipers and ball joints. Do i need to get these caliper brackets?

My car is same color! I need the lower drivers side pilar trim below where seatbelt is attached. I would like keyless entry keys with matchine module from the trunk near antenna. The wood shifter surround piece if it has no cracks. Rear seatlbelt parts that are below rear seat(i don't need shoulder parts just receptors and center belt) Door carpet stay/ grey pieces that are not beat up or scratched. Also, i need a grey outside door handle. If no one takes it..or wants to swap for a "White Metallic" one i am game. How is carpet?

Could be a rebuilt pump. true, but i was not aware of these being rebuilt.

My recently purchased LS400 needs suspension work. The (non air ride) struts are dead. I am considering high end upgrades. I am also looking at the Tokico's on ebay as possible replacements. What are the options?

I have a few of these i pulled from wrecked cars.

Casting dates are usually in circle or grid formation. Usually its 2 digits lik 89 90 91 92 93 94 00 03 04 06 There will be a a 9 for examble is 1999. A 0 is 00. Then there are a split pie in 12 partitions. These are usually marked...signifying month. This marking I found on the cast metal water pump was a 90 with a bunch of checks. Unless someone used OLD stock pump this is original. if it had been like 96 or later.. i would assume changed..

I am going to upgrade the brakes on our 1991 LS400 to the newer calipers and larger rotors. We also own a fleet of Chevy Beretta's which go through a similar brake upgrade. In which later 1991 of the lil chevy's got smaller rotors by 3/4" in diameter with little difference in thickness. My personal experience is that no matter which rotor finish or machining, or what special pad compound the size of the caliper and the rotor do make a difference. I am personally looking into the larger Lexus brakes use on later models and turbo supra's.

Stephanie did the timing belt and water pump on our recently purchased 1991 LS400. The car has 230k miles, and we purchased KNOWING It needed both. On the way up to the shop the belt snapped! Upon taking it all apart we found all tensioner parts SIEZED! The pump SIEZED. I checked the casting date on the pump to find a 1990 mid/late casting. This tells me its most likely original, and never done. So basically this car went 230k miles on original belt! The cars back together and you will be seeing more of it as its getting fixed up.

I have a left headlight on ebay right now. I may also have an amp for the Pioneer that tested good comming up shortly