byohzrd

Most tint shops do clear bra. I would start by calling some shops near your dealership and asking "Do you do work for Such and Such Lexus?" Unless they've made some agreement with the dealership, they'll be happy to tell you. Don't worry if you can't find the specific shop, though. Any decent tint shop will do a good job with the bra. Just ask lots of questions and make sure you get the answers you want.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the 2000 ES Platinum Series came with a full-size spare tire with a matching wheel? I had a bit of an "incident" with a curb which bent my rim slightly, causing a vibration in the steering wheel. My spare is a typical mini-spare, but I was under the impression that car came with a full-size... Also, if anyone knows where I can find ONE matching wheel (they are nonexistent on eBay) for less than the $500 Lexus wants, let me know. I love the design of my wheels, but it seems silly to buy a new wheel at that price when I can buy a set of four brand new wheels AND tires from a newer ES or IS on eBay for the same price.

Dealerships always mark up the price on tint and "clear-bra" and in most cases outsource the job to a shop that charges half of what they charge you. One of my clients is an independent tint shop that does work for 90% of the dealers in his area. He charges approximately $150 for tint and $199 for a clear bra. The dealerships he does work for usually charge $300 and $500 respectively. Another thing to consider, regarding amf1932's problem with the film only covering part of the bumper: Sometimes dealerships will buy pre-cut kits and do the installation themselves. This doesn't yield the greatest results. If you take your car to an experienced shop, they'll cut the film on-site, according to your specifications (if possible... sometimes the curves and lines on the car prevent the film from adhering). A shop can also apply the film to your side mirrors and headlights. In my opinion, the clear bra is well worth the money. Different shops use different materials (some are thinner and less visible), but regardless of where you go or what material you use, the results are great. The bra shouldn't fade or peel. If you have a white or very light car, though, keep in mind there will be a slight discoloration of the protected area (this is the film, and doesn't affect the paint).

The last two times I have taken my car to the dealership for service, they have basically refused to give me a loaner car. I usually get some lame excuse such as "We can do it while you wait" (their estimated 10-minute fix took them an hour) or "Our loaners are all reserved" (I was scheduling my appointment more than one week out). Even if I press the issue, they refuse. I don't want to make a big deal of it, so I haven't persued it. Maybe it's because my car is old (it's a 2000). Maybe it's because they see a 23-year-old walk in and write me off. Who knows... I guess they think I have time to sit around reading old magazines and drinking their stale coffee. There is only one other dealership in Utah (one hour away) and unfortunately it is owned by the same person. I love my Lexus, and I've been seriously considering purchasing a new RX. I guess I'll just have to deal with poor service.

Along the same lines... when can rotors be turned, and when do they need to be changed? I had a bad vibration in my steering wheel last November and had the rotors turned. Now, nine months later, the vibration is back. Is it normal to have rotor problems so often? (I haven't had the problem diagnosed, but I'm 99% sure that's what it is... it's the same vibration that was there before.) I had the first repair done at the dealership... do they guarantee their work?

I'm with George.

I was told by a mechanic that the cheapest pads are the best. Please pardon my mechanically dumb explanation: He explained that the way brakes work, the pad and the rotor rub together, thus stopping the car. Pads wear out because it is the weaker of the two materials and is designed to wear down. If pads are guaranteed for life, then it would seem that something else would wear down, presumably the rotor. Basically, lifetime pads will cause problems elsewhere. I could be wrong. I'll be the first to admit I am car-dumb, but this explanation seemed to make sense to me.

Hmmm... I'm not sure I want to hack into my car just to install a strut bar. Are there any other options?

Other than eBay, where can I find a strut bar for my 2000 ES? I'm having trouble finding one.

I recently had the same problem. Luckily it was repaired under warranty. It's actually only a $60 part and a 10 minute fix (so I've been told). Pop the old one out and the new one in. I'd have a pro do it... but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to cars. Apparently this happens quite frequently, as my dealership had several in stock.

I took my car into the dealership yesterday (with 200 miles left on my warranty), and I was in luck... the warranty covered the replacement of my B-pilar. Oddly enough, they had the part in stock... maybe this really is a common problem.

Hmmm... I must have been having a bad day yesterday. Thanks for merging my identical posts. Also, I know its a 4/50 warranty... I just have fat fingers. :) Anyway, I'm going to run down to the dealership today and see what they can do about the problem. Thanks!

The paint on my B-Pilar is beginning to peel. I've heard this is a common problem on the ES. My car is still under the 5/50 warranty... does anyone know if this would be covered?

The paint on my B-Pilar is beginning to peel. I've heard this is a common problem on the ES. My car is still under the 5/50 warranty... does anyone know if this would be covered?

In my experience, you can get a much better deal on a "clear bra" by taking it to an independent shop. Shops in the Salt Lake area charge around 199 for hood and mirrors. Some shops even do your headlights, to prevent abrasion and scratching. Look for a shop that uses 3M (the material is called Scotch-Cal, I believe) as opposed to the ClearBra brand. The 3M is much thinner so you won't see as much of a visible line, and it should also last longer. If you really want the dealer to do it, ask who does their work... often times they'll send the car to an independent shop and add about 200 bucks to the price.

I'm the Executive Director of Public Relations for West Valley City (second-biggest city in Utah, suburb of Salt Lake City). I'm not sure how I ended up here, but it's grown on me. :)

Regarding the charcoal canister... isn't the emissions warranty supposed to cover that? Has anyone had any experience with this?

I aim to please.

www.lexus-parts.com The wallet key is listed at $34 (I think, I haven't checked for awhile). You give them your VIN, and they send you a cut key. You can actually get all of your keys here... for a lot less than at the dealership. The wallet key does not need to be programmed, as it does not have the microchip in the head (some years included a key card/holder with the chip in it, but I don't think the 2001 ES has that). The wallet key can only be used to unlock your doors and trunk. If, by chance, you do have the key card with the chip in it, I am assuming it is programmed the same way as a regular key, except you hold the card near the ignition during programming. I believe lexus-parts sends programming instructions with the microchipped keys. If they don't, let me know and I can get them for you.

Playing around online, I stumbled upon this. ES330 Facelift Ho-hum. :whistles:

Follow the link to the Homelink programming website. It will walk you right through it. If you have a rolling-code opener, pay special attention to the instructions. Homelink Programming

Regarding the replacement of my strut mounts, I am not sure whether or not Lexus is fixing the problem for free. My car is still under the 4/50K warranty. When I had the problem fixed, I brought up the TSB, and my service advisor assured me the problem would be fixed for free. There was never any discussion of it being a warranty repair (there usually is). Talk to your service advisor... it's worth a shot.

I also love the 97-01 body. Very modern, luxurious, and even aggressive looking. The style will never look dated. My pros and cons basically echo what chadmg7 had to say. The Strut Mount problem had a TSB issued, and I had mine replaced free of charge. Make sure you get a clean car with records, and you'll love it. A couple things to note: The car is not a sports car by any means. I went from a Maxima to a BMW 330 Cabrio to my ES. It took some time to get used to the smooth ride and smooth accelleration. No more taking corners at 45mph and squealing the tires from a standstill. I guess even though the ES has got the HP and torque, it's geared like a luxury car. Don't buy the Lexus unless you can afford to take care of it. Oil must be changed regularly, and scheduled maintenance should be performed. Keep your car happy, and it will do the same for you. Best of luck with your purchase!

I just had this very problem fixed on Friday. They lubed something in the steering column... $45 at the dealership. It was worth it, in my opinion.

Two words: Satellite radio. B)