Jim Nazium

there is a recall for that... i know, because they changed mine unknowingly when i took it in for oil change. fwiw, it drove worse after, since mine worked perfectly before.

The tool was useless lol. It requires to be placed against a flat surface, to create the vortex... i.o.w., a brake caliper is not the ideal surface. I took out the rotary 90 degree grinder and put on a stiff wire mesh brush, and attacked the calipers and assembly. Cleaned everything right out, got rid of the rust and did a nice job wiping the stainless steel brake pad gliders too. I found some high quality brake caliper paint, and the same product manufacturer had prep cleaner (that you apply prior to painting the surface), and clear coat. I "Porsche" 0pted for RED, along with the clear coat, the calipers look candy apple sweet. Also, I clear coated parts of the brake rotors that are exposed to the elements and that do not come into contact with the braking surface. Thank god from another member who advised me how to back off the rear drum shoes on the inner side of the rear brake rotors, because otherwise I would of never gotten off one of the two rear discs. The product is a big improvement over the factory disc and pad setup, in terms of brake feel. I made sure to take the necessary steps to "bed" in the brake pads (still doing so) and the vehicle is being driven gingerly (like if anybody drives there 400h like an X6)... Cheers, LormaD

Here is a BETTER picture of the device... not sure how much "performance" can be had by the cyclonic effect derived by a high performance shop-vac (the model I have, has the power to siphon and pump water). Will test and post results...

Unfortunately, I have found with insurance company there is no value given to customers who have been loyal and cost the company Zero in claims. They arbitrarily raise you, or keep you at a set price even though your vehicle depreciates. I found out this the hard way, when I had a legitimate home claim (and my vehicles happened to be with the same company) and I was completely getting the shaft from the claims adjuster... long story short, I got the home insurance policy cancelled along with the claims request... and in doing so, shopped around. The company I swapped my home insurance too, I asked them if I could also swap my vehicles since it was easier to have one policy, one company and everything covered by the same company. I had them quote me for my three vehicles. When they quoted me, I thought there price was per vehicle and the 1st vehicle quote given was for my BMW M5, when in fact, their quote included all three vehicles (and I thought it was only for the M5) was LESS than the cost of insuring just my M5 with the "other" company. So, in the insurance game, it doesn't pay to be loyal and complacent because if you think being loyal gets you anywhere, let me tell you the insurance companies "goal" is not to satisfy you (in a claim) by any stretch of the imagination. So in the time of a claim, they will do everything to save, so my advice is the same to the end user. Screw them, because in the end, they WILL try to screw you if given the chance. Now, as a rule, every couple of years, I call up other Insurance Companies... get them to quote me (comparing apples and apples, of course) and if they are "reasonably" less... I do not even call back the present Insurance Company, I just Change. Cheers, LormaD

Found IT!!!!! Woohoo... hope it works... PLUS, it was on sale, discontinued, and Discounted!!! Not bad for $17 bucks! Also came with the silica too!!!!

I tend to agree, I was surprised at the premature recommendation by the STealer Dealer. The reason why, I have decided to go about it "old School". I used to do most of my own service, even when my vehicle was under warranty (previous vehicles) simply because most dealers (99.9%) are dishonest. Yes. Dishonest. They need to be to stay in business. I also was looking for a portable sand blaster. My local auto parts store used to offer a device that plugged to a shopvac to generate the "power" required to pull silica, and blast in a confined area. I am not sure how it works, but it was approx 50-75 Dollar item. I wanted while performing the brake service, to clean the calipers and give them a quick sandblasting and a coat of flat black high temp paint prior to swapping out the new pads and rotors. Anybody have any thoughts? I found a bunch of portable and compact sandblasters, but can no longer find the one I mentioned above.

To be honest, the brakes were serviced once resurface the rotors and new pads spring 2009 @ 35000miles) unnecessarily in my opinion, and the vehicle has now 47,000 miles and the brakes perform relatively well. But, I did not some scoring on the rear rotors, and given the price I got on some replacement pads and rotors, I never like to leave the caliper piston compressed too low for a long period of time (vehicle was purchased June 2006).

My 2006 RX 400H is due for a complete brake overhaul. Dealer quoted me a G-Note for Pads and rotors. I find this to be a little beyond outrageous. I have performed complete brake jobs before, though I am no Class A Certified Mechanic, doing your own brakes is pretty basic. I will be investing in a Brake Caliper service Tool, because I am pretty sure the rear calipers will require them since I am betting they will need to be screwed back in. For those who have done their own brakes on there RX 400H, can you please share with me any insight or tips pertaining to this model? Much appreciated, Cheers, LormaD

How good a paint job, and work performed did they really do, when they couldn't even replace an emblem??? Jeeze Louise, it just isn't rocket science... Cheers, MadloR

That wouldn't work. The vehicle needs >12.5 volts in order to charge the lead acid battery. Typically it should be outputting anywhere from 13.5 to 16.0 volts, and with the right circuitry, can detect the battery resistance and vary it... Otherwise, if it kept just enough voltage to retain memory settings (I believe <12 volts would do the trick) there would not be enough battery power to turn on all the electronics required to get the traction battery to take over. Cheers, MadloR

I am not sure, but I think that there is probably a diode inline, therefore limiting the "travel" of electricity between the battery and the lighter plug. The way to be sure is, with a voltmeter. Put the voltmeter on the battery and register the voltage, then, plug in the solar charger or whatever type of maintenance charger you have and record the voltage reading at the battery to see if there is any significant increase. A digital type voltmeter would be the type you would need, since it would be easier to detect any type of change (vs a conventional analog voltmeter). Cheers, MadloR

The "auxiliary" battery is warrantied for 48 months (I am assuming you made a typo), not 84 months. Mine died two days ago (well, not true, it was dieing all the time in the 50 months or so of ownership. I complained at every service interval, and was told "oh, it's normal, alot of hybrid customers complain about this"). Anyhoot, two months out of warranty, and the dealer wanted $250 for the factory battery (with a 1 year warranty replacement warranty). I said, thanks, but no thanks. I went to a popular auto parts store, and found there "house brand" battery (they only had one choice) for about a $100 bucks or so. The battery came with a 3 year replacement warranty, and an additional 6 years pro-rated warranty. At time of purchase, they offered a $9.99 insurance plan, which converted the additional 6 years pro-rated warranty into an additional 6 years replacement warranty. Can't argue with that. There is no way I was going to shell out for an Optima spiral type battery, given the outrageous cost and very marginal warranty (as well as, good luck finding someone local to actually honor the warranty). Imagine, having to pay freight to ship the battery back to Optima for a warranty claim? Cheers, MadloR

If the traction batteries are deemed by the computer to be "fully charged" (which is more like at 80% capacity), then the computer monitoring the traction batteries will not allow any current to flow from the generator to the traction battery cells. The engine may be needed, depending on the driving conditions (say for example in winter, you require heat to the heater box), or driving up a steep slope (the engine is required to move the vehicle along)... it just that the engines consumed fuel, will not be "recuperated" by the various mechanical devices that converted that energy into electricity which is stored by the traction batteries. In the four years of ownership, I have only seen once with my own eyes, the graphic display show every single bar indicator lit up (to indicate 100% capacity). If you google, you will find plenty of information as to why rechargeable batteries are never left in a state of being either fully charged or fully depleted. It effects there longevity. Cheers, MadloR

The one thing you will worry about, is the actual "traditional" battery that turns on the electronics which will get the computers and the "traction" battery under way. The factory "skinny" battery you will find under the engine bay is a P.O.S. I do not know how many times in the 4 years of ownership, that battery has been depleted. Sometimes, I am away on business for a week or more, and my wife likes to take my car and leave the 400h in the garage. And, sure as chit, the bugger is too low to power up the computers. Some on the boards have invested in "trickle" chargers, to maintain the "starter" battery for the computers, but to be perfectly honest this is not practical for most. I do not expect my wife to unplug the plastic shroud housing covering the "starter" battery and have her plug in the maintenance charger. Then, when she wants to go out, remove it and fiddle with the plastic plugs that hold the plastic housing in place. Finally, after 50 months of use, and after several complaints to the dealer service department over the life of the vehicle (they never changed it or said there was a problem), the factory battery was diagnosed at 25% capacity yesterday and was deemed to be replaced. 2 months out of warranty. Nice, eh? Well the dealer wanted $250 for an oem battery and offered a 1 year warranty. I said thanks but no thanks, and went to a popular auto parts store in my neck of the woods and spent $120 for a battery that came with a 3 year replacement warranty (with an additional 6 years prorated warranty). As well, at time of purchase, if you take there $9.99 insurance plan, the 6 years prorated becomes 6 years replacement at no additional charge. I couldn't justify the cost of going the "Optima" spiral wound battery route, given the exorbitant cost and very marginal warranty. Food for thought, make sure the engine battery is in good shape (it has been the only part failure so far on my RX 400h). Cheers, MadloR

Got it!!!! Now works! Cheers, MadloR

Is there a way for the owner to reset the ICU? /Steve Yep! Here you go... ISC learning procedure Cheers, MadloR

Yes ... THIS is helpfull ... Lexus shop is NOT helpfull. We're ready for our THIRD ... count 'em ... THIRD set of tires, in only 42,000 miles. (TSB relating to alignment pulls to right) No problem? TSB applies if you're under 50,000 miles. Yet according to Lexus our 400h has over 48 months FRIOM IN-SERVICE date. Lexus says that means once it was manufactured ... even if it wasn't bought/driven/registered for THREE months prior! I'm thinking, "eh! no big deal ... 6 months ago, we paid $2,000 for Lexus' extended bumper to bumper warranty (just in case these people tried to wiggle out of stuff like this). I wouldn't think we'd have to pull the extended warranty card. After all, we've been having to get it aligned & aligned & aligned again & again to no avail. WHY didn't these people run a TSB check?!? Why is it that the customer has to WAVE the TSB in their face?!? WHY won't they simply CHANGE OUT the G.D. part?!? (taking a deep breath). OK, so I'm going back down again, today, to see what the next run around will be. (sigh) Maybe I should take it to the Toyota shop in stead. They've always shown more integrity & character regarding repairs than any of our Lexus experiences. I'd certainly prefer to experience customer care, and integrity ... than a waiting room that serves foo-foo coffee. Meah - maybe that's just me. No, it's not just you. Lexus has come a long way in engineering there vehicles, but unfortunately they are far off when it comes to training there grease monkeys. . I am sorry about the derogatory remark to all those mechanics who perform there work with pride and love, but the sad fact of the matter is that most of the grease monkeys, to them, it's just a job. And if Lexus wants to truely pursue perfection, they need a major in house cleanup and either fire or retrain Lexus dealers who cannot perform a repair or maintenance the first time round. Yes, mistakes and over sites occur, but EVERYTIME I am taking my vehicle in for something as simple as an oil change, the dealer always finds something to repair or replace (be it in or out of warranty) and fubar's it up. It is SOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooo frustrating having to be the one (the owner) responsible for the dealers mistakes. Cheers, MadloR P.S. you'll remember my post about how the dealer fubared me with the windshield etc...

Hi, let me know if you ever decide on a system, i'm interested to buy one too. Look here: http://www.coastaletech.com/lockpick3.htm AND HERE: http://www.prestigioussociety.com/?page_id=138 I want to be able to enter destination, dial a phone number and watch a movie, all while the car is moving. The Question is, will these products still work after upgrading the navigation disk to say, 9.1? I can never get a clear answer for this... Cheers, MadloR

IN_FREAK'N_SANE!!!! Wow, talk about an OEM Finish. Your key, is a JEWEL! And to think, I went with a Flip Key (similar to the VW type flip blade key) to replace my broken factory key/housing. Cheers, MadloR

I am curious if anybody has had any luck or tried out the "Toyota Smart Keymaker". I ordered one, but find the instruction a little confusing to say the least (I tried to request product support, but only got a reply to return the item for a full refund lol). Here is a picture of it... Everybody in China / Japan sells these, and everyone who builds (clones, copies, whatever you want to call it) and sells them gives the same generic programming instructions. I am curious if anybody has tried this out, or has a better understanding of the procedures. Yes, I know we do not have a start button, and yes I know the dealer can program the remote for me for an absurd amount of money. What I am looking for is help on programming a key please. Cheers, MadloR = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Use the main key to add the other keys: Connect the programmer to the OBD port of the car, there are some short beep sounds after power on, it enters auto search car status. Press the start button twice to wake up the anti-theft module. When the connection with the module is done successfully after 7 seconds, there is a long beep 4-5 sounds (4 sounds means the system is IV K system, 5 sounds means V CANBUS system). Wait 30 seconds, there are a long beep sounds, it means the car enter into add key state. Add smart key: put the original car key (with the logo side) access to the start button, you should hear two beep sounds. SEC light will flash twice; within 5 seconds, put the key close to the start button, you should hear 2 beep sound, SEC light will flash twice; after learn all the smart key, wait 30 seconds till SEC light begin flash, and the car will close adaptation mode automatically. All the key was lost or only have vice key, need to do initialization: Press constantly the LED button, and plug into the OBD port of the car, after two short beep sounds, finish press, it enters into auto search car status. Press the start button twice, in order to wake the anti-theft computer. When the connection with the Computer of car is done successfully after 7 seconds, there is a long beep 4-5 sound (4 sounds mean the system is IV K system, 5 sounds mean V CANBUS system), 5 seconds later, LED light go out. Wait 10-16 minutes,there are a long beep sounds, and LED light flicker, it means the car enter into study key state. All keys lost matching mode: Add every smart key which need to program(with the logo side)access to the start button, meanwhile you will here two beep sound. SEC light will shine twice; After you finisher studying all the smart keys, wait 30 seconds till SEC light shining, the system will Auto-close study state = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

I plan on addressing this with Toyota Canada (cc the president) to see what kind of Company the world's biggest automaker has to say. If anybody can help me out, or make any kind of suggestions, in terms of my letter, it would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, MadloR P.S. Is it me, or is Toyota acting more and more like the good 'ol days of the General, when THEY were the largest automobile manufacturer in the world.

Well, I thought to have put this behind me... but incredibly, the Dealer Service Advisor is up to more antics. Back when the dealer, on the 4th attempt, had insisted to want to correct the issue with leaving my interior in disarray... they wanted to send me a valet vehicle. The vehicle would be delivered after 10H30 (over 3hours after I would of left for work) to my house. I informed the Lexus Service Advisor, that this would be pointless, and to just send two drivers, one to pick up my vehicle and shuttle back to the dealer. They said that would not be good for them, since that would involve two employees. I said to them, that I would not be using there vehicle for two reasons (1) the vehicle needs to be registered where I park at work (for security, you cannot bring in any vehicle and park there for security reasons), and (2) I would be leaving for work at roughly 6H30am. Therefore, I had no use for the vehicle, but if it was easier on the dealer to come down with one employee instead of two, I said fine. Well yesterday 10/01/28 I received in the mail a copy of the work order (which was already supplied to me when I had my vehicle picked up) along with a copy of a fuel receipt for $13.55, AND a transaction receipt on my credit card for $13.55 from the Dealer. Unbelievable! The Service Advisor passed a transaction on my credit card without my authorisation for the courtesy vehicle for the fuel refill. The vehicle was driven by the valet driver from the dealer to my home (my neigherbour in fact) and back to the dealer. Total round trip miles 20. The vehicle was the hybrid IS. I cannot understand what possessed the Service Advisor. Was she on some kind of vendetta? Are we in highschool? Who has time for these games? This is simply getting out of hand and childish. I do not know if I have the energy or time to further pursue this matter. It's incredible. Cheers, MadloR

Just because the service was junk, the car is bad? We used to have the E300. It was very nice, but BOTH the service joints we took it to were HORRIBLE. It didn't make the care horrible. We just took it to an independent shop after that, and because of that. . I never said the car was bad. My very first sentence, from my very first post... "I have a 2006 RX 400h with 38,000 miles and runs like clockwork.... has never missed a beat...." Where do you get the impression that the car is junk? I just happen to base, the "total" experience, between Product and After Sales Service in my purchasing decision. Having a great product with p!ss Poor Service, Agravations, and Total Disregard for customer satisfaction, just happens to be a major "value" point with me. I was just not impressed by the fact that Lexus Canada, did not regard after sales service as an important attribute reflecting there product. I do not know of one single manufacturer, who would not want to be 100% sure that the customer (especially during the warranty period) is being serviced in accordance with the manufacturers standards, which hopefully, would approach something other than "well, they are franchises after all..." As if, like water off of a Ducks Back. Cheers, MadloR

This is my third dealership since owning my vehicle... The first dealer, gave me good service, except for... They would not, at any request, offer me a loaner vehicle. (Lexus Gabriel St. Laurent). My vehicle was always serviced with them, and I never questioned there type of service nor questioned there fees. On a major service interval, along with brakes and pads to be replaced (I was told it was going to be roughly a G-Note in costs), I asked if they could for that ONE time, pass me a loaner. They said No (and stuck to there policy of not offering a courtesy car to American Lexus Vehicles). I decided, at that point, to take my business elsewhere and asked them to cancel my appointment scheduled in two weeks. I called another dealer, closer to my house (Lexus Spinelli Lachine) and was asked by the Service Advisor, what was the telephone number associated with my vehicle. As soon as I finished giving the Service Advisor my phone number she responded with "We do not have a loaner vehicle vehicle for you Mr. Jim, because you have a US Lexus vehicle". I thought this reply was rather odd, that the first words out of the Service Advisors lips were to that effect. I questioned the Service Advisor's response, and was told that there was a note on my file. I was, as you can imagine, not impressed by the actions of the 1st Dealer (Lexus Gabriel). I none the less, booked the appointment to perform the >Basic Service, as outlined by the Lexus Owners Manual>, and have no other additional "Value Added" Work performed. When I picked up my vehicle, and was told it was ready; it was returned to me unwashed. I walked back into the service bay, after having paid the bill and questioned them about my unwashed vehicle, and was told by the Service Advisor that they do not wash US Lexus Vehicles. Real Professional, Don't You Think? How much of a savings or time did they really save by being anal with a Lexus Customer. What benefit, did they gain by acting in such a manner? I lost it with Lexus Canada and explained to them my predicament. I told them, that I felt like a 2nd Class Lexus Owner, getting second rate service. I was not prepared to sell my 1 year old Lexus vehicle that I purchased while working in the USA, to simply satisfy Lexus Canada Dealers, and purchase another new "Canadian" Lexus RX 400h, so that I could get satisfactory service. The Lexus Representative, asked me, if I was willing to work with the same owner (Lexus Spinelli, have two dealers, Lachine and Pointe Claire) but at the other Dealer location (I am guessing, Lexus must of given the Spinelli Lexus Lachine an Ear worth), and that the Manager At Lexus Spinelli Pointe Claire, would assure me, that if I had work performed at there dealership, they would offer me a loaner (not for routine stuff, like just an oil change) and even wash my vehicle, like a Canadian Lexus vehicle / customer would receive. At the time, I agreed, and said that I would call them back, at the next service interval (roughly December). As it turns out, that dealership (Lexus Spinelli Pointe Claire) has turned out to be a complete nightmare, as reading this post for yourself, you can see they are really sub par. Cheers, Jim

Well, it's finally over. I will never feel the same about my RX 400h, ever again. I was really disappointed with Lexus Canada's response when I asked them to intervene. In the end, I got one well trained corporate "manager" call me back with "uh huh, uh-hum, I see, uh huh..." responses for there inquiry over what was wrong. Followed up by "They are franchises, and even though we try and wish they act in the way we would prefer too, they are after all the one you will have to deal with". The politically correct way of saying, Lehman Brothers (aka, go F yourself). Nice! Thank you Lexus Canada for your Interest and Concern over this issue. I know that I have been chosen to selectively take part in a survey, everytime I call 1 800 Lexus Canada (at the end of my call), now how about listening to me when I call and actually have something to say. My sole request on the part of Lexus Canada, was to no longer deal with the service representatives from the dealership, but to have someone from the dealers management team call me back. And NOT even that, was a gimmee. Instead, I had the same service advisor call me back. I did ask him why Lexus of Canada, did not request someone from the dealerships management team call me, he replied with, that he (and his colleague, the other service advisor) is an assistant manager. You can always tell people who screw people, they ALWAYS have an answer for everything. In the end, the dealership paid for the window (a Lexus OEM windshield), and I had the dealer call in an outside firm who specializes in windshield replacements, to install the windshield at my expense. Hey, it cost me money, but I had no other choice. I had zero confidence in the workmanship and execution performed by the staff over at Lexus Pointe Claire. More importantly, they showed absolutely ZERO responsibility for there poor service performance. Everything that happened was laid out to accidents happen, and that accidents could happen to anybody. What irked me the most was the complete lack of empathy, or acknowlegement on there part for there sloppyness, poor service work, and carelessness. Lexus Canada, if your listening... I cannot seriously consider another Lexus product. You have no idea that in this day and age, it takes more than a great product. The product is only as good as the warranty and service that is backed by the manufacturer (that being you, Toyota Motor Company). And in this case, Lexus Canada has told me what they have to say on the matter by there actions. My next SUV will be from Germany, because there aftersales service IS Perfection. Cheers, Jim P.S. My M5 has been a tank, and my previous 850 though somewhat italian finicky was always serviced over and beyond what the manufacturer would stipulate as warranty work by the dealer.