SOMEONE ELSE'S GOT MY NAME

mwest, you brought up interesting factoids ! ... and even so, there are other variables & motives for using an EBH. For example in sub zero conditions, an EBH can mean the difference between the vehicle starting or not. Who'd want to have to replace a freeze plug, if your coolant expanded & pushed one out? And between your older RX, versus the hybrid version, there are other variables. With much of a hybrid's mpg improvements being due to the electric motors, traction battery temperature management becomes important. The EBH warming the block/coolent allows the cabin heater to warm the batteries quicker. Our 400h gets only around 15mpg during the 1st 10-12 minutes, but with the EBH, the 400h is capable of going over 30mpg within the 1st minute. Etc etc.

Welcome to the world of "Pulse & Glide" :P ... or P&G as we 'hypermilers' call it. Some have gotten over 40mpg averaged over an entire tank full in the hyhi ... so someone may be doing it already in the 400h but we just don't know about it yet. How else could I have beat the EPA by over 25mpg in my Prius ?!? Over 700 miles, on 10 gallons ... not too shabby?

Oh yea ... you can to it yourself. All you have to do is hook up the Toyota Scangauge ... a measlily $1,500.00 from your online Toyota dealer :P The up side is when the next gen 400h comes out with the Smart Key System, (sks) you can also program your own fobs ... and your neighbors etc ... but the downside is that even even if you're charging $50 a pop to program fobs, it'll take a long time for your scanguage to pay for itself.

Welcome tommygunn! I've only had Crown Royal once. And I thought Crown Royal was more of a honey color, like most other whiskeys. No? But anyway the Brandywine IS now the favorite of both my wife & I. It wasn't available on the 400h when it came out in 06' unfortunately for us.

Ah come on now! I suppose you think those water to hydrogen fuel cel gizmos are fake too? :P These are important devices . . . they separate $ $ from those who don't deserve it, and allow those who are clever enough to pocket it ... to do so. Hey, Does anybody want to join my "Income tax is unconstitutionl" pyramide?

Funny thing is, on our '04 Prius, it came STOCK w/ tinted brake/signal tail lights ~ then next year? '05 and beyond? Boom, they went clear ( You can just barely make it out on my avatar, to the left ). Weird, that if folks prefer the tint, that the factory would go the other way. Beats me.

Heck, use the web! Google the word, "coupons". Firestone just had a $17 coupon that expired 4/1/08 ... but they'll be back. Took both our hybrids down, and got it done for that price. Every so often we've had charity groups come by and sell a Big 'O' coupons for (somewhere around) 10 oil changes at $150. That's another sweet deal. But yea, for those kinds of prices, who'd want to do it yourself. Of course be ready for them to use a fine tooth comb with inspections. Their hope is they'll find something else that they can recoup their loss on. Our prius has a plate over the hole where the starter moter would go in a regular ICE car. This starter moter plate has a sharp tab that could cut through a big cable near by. Firestone offered to fix it for a "small fee". I said "No thanks, I'll take care of it". Any wonder why I got the stinkeye? :P

Actually, we bought our '06 IN '06 ... used, and paid with AMEX (same as cash because they require full payment each month) so we could get a ton of frequent flyer miles ;) We've always had good luck w/ the autotrader/trucktrader method, when it comes to unloading our used cars.

Yep, any Dealer's service can be a POS. My co-worker's GM pickup had a light noise in the rear end severeal years ago. After having it returned to him 2 times, still noisy, he put a tiny dot of anti-tamper compound on the rear end fasteners. He got it back, drove it around the corner (with the light noise still evident) ... craweled under the rear of the car ... only to find the rear end had never been touched. Of course the manager blamed the service tech (obviously it would NEVER be the manager's idea to NO work on something :^O right? ) for being a slacker, and only THEN, was the problem taken care of. Seems to me, it more important, is to find a reputable service place and stay with THEM ... rather than kiss off the entire manufacturer. But ever since he told me that (plus, I remember decades ago, after I had my ford's tires rotated, the lugs were so loose the wheel almost fell off) story, I've applied a tiny dot of anti-tamper compound on the lugs, the oil filter, etc, of all my cars ... just in case ;^)

As above, sorry to hear. I take it, no extended warranty. Folks said it'd be a waste for buying one, but we did it anyway and it more than paid for itself, on our Toyota. I know, the old saying is true ... hind sight is 20-20.

Yep, that's why I went to my super duper monkey gymnastics formula method to calc it out. That said, the other Lexus forum has a member that says the super duper toyota / lexus service manual states 76lbs for the RX. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326287 so I wasn't too far off wish he'd of posted a pdf, it'd be nice ... not that I'm doubting Edit: Whoops, Just noticed the comment about not finding differences for thread pitch. Actually, it's pretty commonly recognized how threads vary load. See this typical chart: http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf Note how each bolt size shows different torque values turning on differnt numbers of threads per inch. Fore example, a U.S. SAE 1" fastener has 3 common amounts of threads per inch . . . either 8, 12, or 14. The finer the threads, the greater the torque that can safely be applied. Similarly note how much the clamp load increases . . . over TWO TONS OF ADDITIONAL CLAMP LOAD, on a single bolt, simply because the threads are finer. More threads per inch = more ability to deliver high clamp load. And as this chart shows, the same principals hold true for metric fasteners as well. Lastly, regarding hardness, look at the hardness values of a 1" bolt at the bottom of the chart. Grade 5 versus grade 8. Again, more clamp load, and a higher torque is atainable, due to the harder characteristics of bolts. These are pretty elementary givens in the world of the machinist / aerospace world.

I've enjoyed several informative reads left by wwest, so maybe this is an april fools? :D Suggesting that because one of our local tire joints (using a rattle gun) jacked our Prius (a mid sized passenger vehicle) lugs to 100. It cost them a bit to replace the 2 damaged lugs ... one w/ streached threads, and the other simply metal fatigued/broke. Here's an older toque chart off the web as one of many examples: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelTorque.dos#lexus Not to say studs will always be damaged . . . 5 or 10lbs +/- won't break the bank . . . but higher? More likely, and it's only weakening the threads, not making the tire any more secure. . . . and yep . . . bolt/lug hardness/tensile strength is ONE determining factor of proper torque. But the others listed above are just as important factors. So come on now . . . I know you know that . . . April fools, right? :P

whoops, sorry gdixon, overlooked your jack points question. Yes, the manual calls out where the jacking points are. The scissors jack is kind of chincy, so use caution. Some have complained that it's easily put in danger of caving in, especially on unlevel ground. This topic too, has been beat to death :P So here's a link with pictures (the search tool is a wonderful thing), in case you find it hard to locate the little indents where the jack goes: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&id=8290

Hi Dave, I'd say your 80lb guess was darn close :) There are several folks on this Lexus forum and the 'other' Lexus forum, that have dedicated time to talkin' lug torque. Also, there are tons of lug nut charts on the web that folks can draw from. None in the Manual? Makes sense. Most shade tree mechanichs will only use the lug wrench which is too short for most to over-do it. For me, I have torque charts (home and at work), and a rockwell hardness tester. Torque (another way to ultimately compute a clamp load) is a component of how coarse / fine the threads are, how lubricated the threads are (and plated threads counts as lube) thread diameter, bolt hardness, and number of fasteners performing the clamp load. Metric hardness terminology differs from U.S. / SAE hardness scales / charts (is everybody asleep yet? :P ) ... but my rockwell tester shows our 400h studs are just a teeny bit softer than an SAE grade '8' bolt (which is pretty hard). Baseing hardness, number of threads per MM, & number of lugs on the 400h, I came up with 55.3 newton meters of torque, which works out to just under 75lbs. That's a nice, safe secure # for the 400h ... not too loose, and no danger of streaching the threads. (Then, like I said, I dropped 10% personally, to allow for the extra lube effect of the loctite type 222 which is way more easily removable than even type 242). Lastly, it's good to use a "Star" - "Criss-Cross" manner while torquing a little more, on each lug, to assure even distribution of your clamp load. Who knew lugs could get so much consideration! :D

I just took delivery of my 08 RX 400h in Brandywine Mica earlier this month and I love the color, I considered the the Matador Red Mica too, but it was too red and not enough metal flake for me, however I agree it would have been my second choice. Whoooah !! I thought brandywine Mica & Matador were the same. THAT's what MY spouse lusts for. That's a great pic! I'm sending it to the boss right now. She'll turn 3 shades of green :P

This must be your 400h but the "regenerative" brakes or the connections don't seem to be apparent in the pics. Are the jack points for a tire rotation clearly indicated under the car? If so, where are they? I'm going to rotate tires in the next few days but don't want to crumple any body panels. Don't bother with cordless impact wrenches. Their specifics are mostly listed in inch-pounds rather than foot-pounds because they are so weak. Sears and Bosch have one that develops only 60 f-p. That wouldn't even start to budge a wheel lug. If you buy a compressor, make sure it makes 150 psi to give you an added boost. (Costco has one for $160.) And buy a quality impact wrench. $300 - $400 is not to much to spend. That's about 25 tire rotations at $20 per or 125K miles. Only you can decide if it is worth it and whether you would have another use for the wrench and/or compressor. Actually, you DO NOT EVER want to jack-hammer your studs with 150 psi. That sometimes, will pull the threads off a stud, and the dealer will charge you appx $75 dollers to extract a potential broken stud, because over torquing studs voids the warranty that normally applies to the brake / wheel / hub componets. Taking them off, too. can easily be done at 90psi. ... even if they're on tight. Then, use a torque wrench to put them on with the correct torque. I like to use a nice soft loctite formula to give a little extra security to the tightness of the studs. The manual doesn't require it, and it's an extra expense, but what the heck, it allows you to drop the torque by 10% (lubrication effect) and still end up with a more secure fastener. (Another) Actually, regarding brakes, "regenerative" brakes are not special equipment built into the disks, or hubs, or spindles, rather simply a term of art. Regenerative braking is actually an electric function of the HSD ... so that a regenerative effect is applied from the generater / electric motor, that is transferred to the tires, in a braking effect. THAT is the reason the disks look normal ... because they ARE normal. There is no reverse/generator type thingie added onto the disks.

Hmm. I think it's member 'rxrey' who posted pics here ... with his oversized tires (maybe 1" taller) on his 400h. I'd have wrogly guessed it would have been possible, based on that. Go figure

Yes, several of us are. Just cuz you buy a Lexus is no cause to abandon your other car :P

That's not the only way. You can disconect the speed sensors on the wheels, or you can install a 'locpip' from coastaletec.com which has been mentioned here on several different threads

Wow, who knew? So w/o spacers, there's no room for chains? We run studs in Montana (front & rear). I never though that the stock clearance would not allow for chains. Cables too?

I realize this is getting further off topic, but I believe it important to correct misconceptions. A large amount of power is imported into California from large out of state coal fired plants, such as Intermountain, Four Corners and Mohave (or is it Mojave?). http://www.energy.ca.gov/html/energysources.html The CA web site shows 3 sources for its power, of which coal is 15%, in one of the 3 'pies' ... which would make it 5% of the total 3 sources. But the point was, most find that MPG's (the topic) ares improved using an EBH. The fact tha electricity warms the ICE is a more efficient way to bring it up to speed. Electricity is also a cleaner source ... especially when electricity is used "off peak", since it's going to waste, otherwise. Even coal fired electricity is cleaner, because it's way easier to filter / scrub coal exhaust from a hand full of coal fired furnaces, than it is to clean millions and millions of car's exhaust. My money's on the EBH ~ for better MPG's. Works for us. But if you're driving w/ your foot into it anyway, yea, it would be a waste.

hi wwest, The EBH runs 90 minutes, in the winer, on days you use the car, if it's on a simple timer like you'd use for Xmas lights comming on and off. So it's not used 98% of the time (or less). (Hydroelectric) Electricity in the Flathead Valley comes from the Hungry Horse Dam Co-Op. Or if we're in CA, electricity is a mix of hydroelectric, natural gas, nuke, photo electric, wind (no coal) etc. Then of course, turning it on at 3:15 am (when we usually get up) is a 'non-peak' time ... so even if we were in a "coal-primary" area ... the power is there anyway. Pretty much a non-event, especially considering those things. Maybe you could reframe the question? I don't think I get it. As for the Corvair thing, electric is ALWAYS more earth friendly than gas. Heck, the experts say that even refining fossel fuel takes nearly 1/3 of the fossel fuel (turned into electricity) just to refine the fossel fuel ... from pumping to manufacturing to (amortized over 30years) refinery costs, exploration, admin, etc. As for power on hybrids running the heater ... except for the first couple minutes, the cabin heat DOES come from the ICE. Ergo, the niceness of an EBH

We got our '06 IN '06 with just under 10K miles on it, and there WERE no deals on new ... you either paid or walked :D