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steve2006

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Posts posted by steve2006

  1. Hi,

    Sorry can't help with Q1,2 or 5 but Q3 seat heaters check fuse 23 ( 20 Amp) engine compartment fuse box is the last in a row of 4 fuses also the heating elements do fail but I would not have thought all 4 together.

    As for Q4 there is a switch near to the ignition key lock which says remote on/off make sure it is switched to on.

  2. Hi,

    There are many converters on Ebay which should work for you I have provided a link for the UK site but just type ntsc to pal converter into an ebay.com search and you should find what you need.

    http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk...o+pal+converter.

    They basically alter the line rate from 625 (PAL) to 525 (NTSC) and the colour reference oscillator from 4.43mhz ( PAL) to 3.57mhz (NTSC)

    I don't know about the US spec models but Panasonic VCRs have both PAL and NTSC playback in the UK if that helps

    If you cannot get one let me know and I will send you one from the UK.

  3. The ECT power switch allows the engine to reach higher RPM before the gear changes up so it's like a sports mode and on some models the suspension is also stiffened.

    As for the speedo check the wiring to the speed sensor on the transmission 1st.

  4. I would still check the fuse as it is the easiest thing to do 1st, it is fuse # 10 on the interior fuse panel rated at 7.5 amps, there is also another fuse which protects the emergency flashers and horn circuits this is fuse # 15 rated at 15 amps so see if the horn works to eliminate this fuse. the other possible causes are the hazard warning/emergency flashers switch, the turn signal stalk and as already mentioned the flasher unit.

  5. Hello France, United Kindom here via the United States of America LOC :D

    I did the same to mine but managed to get one secondhand from a car breakers for around 30.00 euro.

    I dont know what the situation is in France with regard to spare parts cars but if not it will have to be a Lexus dealer for the part costing many euros.

    Bon chance mon ami

  6. I had the same problem when I bought my car,the remote didn't work.

    I took the battery out and checked it on a multimeter and it read 3 volts but when I checked it in the fob when the button was pressed it dropped to 1.2 volts a new Varta battery sorted the problem.

    Another maybe not obvious cause is the remote switch to the left of the steering coluum is it on?

    I know you have tried 2 new batteries but if you have a voltmeter put the red +ve probe on the top of the battery and the black -ve on the metal part of the key and check the voltage then get someone to press the button on the fob and see if the voltage drops significantly,as it has been known for "new" batteries to be duff from sitting on a shelf too long.

  7. Hi,

    Have you tried this to reset the system?

    Remote Programming Instructions

    1. Driver's door OPEN and unlocked, all other doors closed and locked.

    2. Insert YOUR key in ignition, DO NOT TURN, remove key.

    3. Using the MANUAL lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly

    press

    lock and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times).

    4. Shut door.

    5. Open door.

    6. Using the lock/unlock button ON THE DRIVERS DOOR, slowly press lock

    and unlock 5 times (count the lock 5 times and unlock 5 times).

    7. With the door open insert your key into the ignition, turn to on

    position (DON'T START), wait 5 seconds. Turn off and remove key.

    8. Locks should cycle once (Car will lock and then unlock once). If

    they

    don't cycle or they cycle more than once, do steps 1-7 over.

    9. Now using the remote, push lock button, hold for one second,

    release.

    The locks should cycle once. If not, start over and go slower.

    10. Close the door. Open the door. Press the lock button on the remote.

    The locks should cycle. Close the door. Press the lock button on the

    remote, the doors should lock. Press again and the doors should

    unlock.

  8. Hi,

    I wish I got a $100 for every time I've answered this question :D

    Running along the left hand trunk hinge there is a wiring loom which over time gets damaged opening and closing the trunk.

    Locate the loom and carefully open it up and check all the wires inside for damage ( normally the white wire) remake the connections as required ,tape back up and that should sort your problem.

    This loom wiring can cause many other problems besides the tail light defect so don't delay or you may find you have strange transmission problem as well.

  9. Remove the wood effect panel from around the shifter and check for debris under it which may be jamming the shifter use a vacuum cleaner and a brush to remove any rubbish in there.

    There is also a shift override button in there so check it is operating correctly and not stuck up with an old soda spillage.

    As you know you have to depress the brake pedal to shift from park so try a little harder press.

    Link to panel removal

    http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html

    See pics 1 and 2

    It may also be a misalignment of the shifter but try the above 1st

    Hope this helps

  10. Sounds like a completely misdiagnosed problem by your mechanic?

    Main causes are upper wishbone bushes,upper ball joint,lower ball joint and anti rollbar/tie bar bushes.

    Check the wheel bearing.

    Also check if the noise goes away when you gently apply the brakes as the pads have been known to rattle.

  11. As far as I can see from the owner's manual there is only an engine # on the engine.

    If you have been given a VIN you may be able to get some history for the donor car from your local Lexus dealer providing they are friendly and the car was serviced in the past by them

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