steve2006

Hi,

You say you ran the engine and therefore the alternator with the battery connections off? This will damage the alternator.

I cannot, as the other posts also say, understand how you are getting 12volts with the engine off and still 12volts with it running, are you using a digital multimeter to measure the voltage?

Hi,

Yes it's a JDM Celsior so that's why I may have got away with the conversion.

It still retains the hi/lo beams but the hi beam is just a "normal" headlight bulb integrated into the HID bulb but there again I don't need to use the hi beam as the lo beam HID is better.

The fog lights are also integrated into the headlight units unlike the US spec where they are separate units I believe.

The rear lights are also an improvement on the UK/US spec having 3 bulbs per cluster, wider inner clusters and the license plate is not standard UK shape but legal over here as it's an import.

I have HID lights fitted to my 1994 LS400 and the yellow fogs still work as they did before as they are separate lights with their own switch.

The wiring with the kit did have to be modified to connect to the existing loom but apart from that they work.

Regarding beam alignment I had them adjusted during the yearly safety test and they passed.

I haven't been "flashed" by oncoming drivers.

3vJeW

I could be wrong but I thought the power steering pump location was moved on the series 3 LS so it wasn't sitting over the alternator.

The same happens with my 94 LS squeals for 30 seconds or so in cold weather then nothing for the rest of the day.

On mine it was the top idler to the right of the tensioner ( apparently a pig to replace due to the amount of stripping down) been like it 3 years now never got worse.

Hi,

Have a look at this link on how to remove the ashtray and get to the switches.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/audio/headunit.html

Apparently getting to the exhaust manifold connection bolts is a pain, Lexus dealer told me they have a modified spanner and can do the job in 30 minutes!

Some one else said to remove the cat to gain access to them

Top connection is easy ( rear of intake manifold)

Only part # I have is for the intake gasket this is for a 1994 model LS400 25634-50010

This may help EGR pipe is near bottom right

cylinder.pdf

Hi,

The transmissions do tend to "bump" a little bit when going into drive especially when the engine is cold.

They also go into 2nd gear then 1st when drive is selected to help with shift shock.

If you haven't already it may be an idea to check the fluid level and the colour of the fluid ( should be a dark cherry red) also smell the fluid on the dipstick, if it smells burnt change it. Do a transmission fluid flush and refill with Toyota type IV fluid.

Another possible cause is worn engine or transmission mountings as they do fail.

This could be the telephone mute circuit problem it has been well documented before and is due to water getting into a connector under the rear seat.

There is an "auto antenna" black box which not only controls the antenna height but I believe also has an amplifier to provide better reception I think it is located in the same area as the antenna.

If the alarm panic button operates the horn it means the fuse is OK as it is a common feed.

If you can get to the horn relay wiring you should see a green/red wire this is the one that goes to the alarm and the horn push on the steering wheel.

If you connect this wire to earth at the relay and the horn works the relay is OK.

Then you have to trace this wire to the horn push on the steering wheel.

He must own stock????? You must not change the air filter on your engine either??

Just think of how much air would be passing through if it's completely clogged up.....NOT MUCH.......and the fans try harder to push air through a clogged up system.....thus leading to climate system problems.....

But what if, instead of a filter, there was a solid piece of metal? At that point I wouldn't get ANY air!

You've lost me with that one

Hi all,

I plan to replace the Brake Booster on my 1990 LS400 (with 280k miles).

Please help.

Do I have to bleed the system afterward? Is there a way to avoid that?

Thanks for your help.

To remove the booster you will 1st need to remove the brake master cylinder and in order to do that you have to disconnect the brake pipes to it so yes you will need to completely bleed out the system after.

It's probably a good thing as the brake fluid should be changed every 30,000 miles so this would be a good time to do so.

On reinstallation make sure the brake booster push rod is set correctly.

I assume you have done the test where you start the engine,turn the engine off then pump the brake pedal until it goes very firm then keeping you foot on the brake pedal restart the engine whereupon the brake pedal should go down slightly as the vacuum builds up.

If you are losing vacuum I would 1st check the servo vacuum hose and it's connections to the servo and inlet manifold, the non return valve and finally suspect the servo. ( I also think the servo may have a filter on it )

This is on the assumption that the rest of the braking system is OK.

If you are not losing coolant ( the level in the expansion tank is correct) it could just be condensation/spilt coolant ( from the thermostat change) evaporating as steam off the radiator as it gets warm especially as the temp gauge reads normal, with both top and bottom radiator hoses getting warm the water appears to be circulating correctly.

I had one go on my 94 LS and it turned out to be the motor inside the lock mechanism, you have to remove the inner door panel then the complete lock assy ( tutorial on lexls) I then bought a secondhand lock assy ($30.00) but it was for a series 3 and the connecting rods are different but managed to strip both down and replace the motor.

Have a look on Ebay for a parting out LS.

Access the fault codes to help you find the problem below is a link explaining how to do it and further down the page is the codes for the TRAC system.

Going from past experience it will probably be an ABS sensor on one of the wheels.

Let me know how you all get on please.

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Hi,

Open the trunk lid and remove the internal trim on the trunk edge,reach inside and feel around for the lamp holder, twist it 90 degrees and the holder will come out of the lense,refit in reverse.

May be worth buying some of the LED replacements they never wear out ( almost) but try the lights before refitting as they only work one way around.

Sorry just noticed you have a 430 I was going on a 400 but it will be similar.

Nobody's mentioned this one so I will.

Make sure the hub flange mating surface is perfectly clean if required use a wire brush to remove rust deposits.

Interior door handle does not work -- does anyone have an alternate source, for the replacement cable, other than the dealer or the junk yard?

Buying from the Lexus dealer just not for me -- tried to get a low beam front light they wanted $594 plus labor to install -- found them on ebay for $40 each!

:D

TIA

Hi welcome to LOC.

I could be wrong but if the LS430 is a similar set up to the LS400 there are no cables it is all operated by connecting rods so it may be worth checking it hasn't come off the nylon retainer to the handle

Did you resolve this issue? I have a 1999 LS400 with the right side speakers not working.

Cheers

Do you have Pioneer ,Nakamichi with or without navigation system?

Maybe you can try to swap the speakers Left to Right to see whether the speaker had shorted out. If it were the amp., try Ebay before the dealer. Good luck to you.

If I can jump in here... My rear deck speaker... The sub?... is not working. I've moved fad, balance, bass etc. with no luck. Could this be fused in any way? or .... ??? Thanks for your help

What year is your car and which system does it have ( pioneer or nakamichi)?

Yes even when the radio is on.

The amp is starting to go.:cries:

I have the same problem in my new to me 91 ls400 with nakamichi. the right side upper door tweeter works or at least it generates some very tinny high pitched sound which I assume is normal, but the main right side speakers are completely dead for radio and cd. the sub is working. does the fact the tweeter works mean the amp is ok or is there a separate amp or cross-over in play? Is there a thread you can point me to where I could find out how to access and test this amp you are talking about? are these amps repairable?

The tweeters are fed via a passive( non powered) crossover from the main ( midrange) door speakers so if you can hear the tweeters working the amp is working so it will be the midrange door speakers that have gone.

There are plenty of aftermarket speakers around. I think they are 5" 4 Ohms.

For access to the speakers follow this link

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/fdoorpanel.html

It's the brake pad wear warning light have a look at the pads and replace if worn before you damage the rotors otherwise check the pad sensors ( attached to the pads) for damage or broken wires.

As this appears to be at a certain engine speed it could be the throttle potentiometer this is the black unit with a connector which fastens to the throttle body, if they get a dead spot on the track they get electrically noisy and may cause this fault.

If you have an old HiFi system the volume control ( the rotary type) would make the sound crackle when adjusted as it wears out or becomes contaminated with dust and this is in effect the same as a throttle pot.