steve2006

I fitted an after market stereo in mine and used one of the aux phono outputs from the head unit to feed a separate subwoofer amp mounted in the trunk where the original CD changer was.

I then connected this amp to the existing subwoofer.

What you need to check is if the sub amp is adjustable for driving a 2 ohm subwoofer speaker as this is the standard impedance of the sub speaker fitted in the LS.

I would check the ABS wheel sensors starting with the front ones, remove them from the mounting,clean all the debris off them and the mounting, check the toothed wheels on the hub for damage then if you have a digital meter check the resistance of the sensors.

Not sure of the exact reading but if you get no reading the sensor has failed and will need replacing.

Hi,

The plug normally has a plastic clip which you depress then pull off the connector (may be underneath) on mine I found using a small flat blade screwdriver inserted in the clip held it in while I pulled the connector off.

Have a look here for clues

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_U_1999_LEXU...L-AEAGKA_1.html

This may help you locate the fastening screws and clips holding the panel on.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1996_LEXU...EPGKA_6705.html

Seem to remember someone doing it but cannot remember the write up details but the 1990-1994 has the 3 speed box with overdrive and the 1995 has a four speed box.

This may sound obvious but have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir? If it is low top up with fluid and recheck regularly if it goes down significantly you have a leak somewhere.

There is also a rack solenoid filter that can get clogged but can be removed and cleaned.

A good resource site is here www.lexls.com.

You may have a bit of air in the system try squeezing the lower radiator hose a few times when the engine is warm ( be very careful and wear gloves)

I also changed my starter recently but since refilling the level has been constant.

What were the codes you cleared?

Hi,

Before doing anything else I would have the AC fault codes read (OBDII) and see if they point you in the right direction.

One thing you could look at is the external temperature sensor used by the AC to regulate the cabin temp ( among others) I have heard the mounting can rust and they fall off ( I think it is behind right side of front bumper)

I have to agree with LS4001990 the Celsiors are somewhat different ( mine is a 1994 model so different to yours)

The red button is the shift lock button it allows you to move the transmission shift with the engine off and your foot off the brake pedal.

Press the button and you can then move the shift lever ( think it's mainly for servicing or if you break down and the car wont start and needs to be moved into neutral to allow it to be transported)

I don't have a white button on the AC controls so cannot help there.

Both mirrors should have the heating/defrost function and also be electrically folding.

As for the trunk/boot release I would 1st check the left hand trunk hinge wiring loon for damaged or broken wires it causes many other problems too.

Just do a "trunk hinge wiring" search.

Also make sure the key lock near the trunk and fuel flap release buttons has not been put in the locked position as it disables the trunk release if it has insert your ignition key and turn to release it.

You could also try www.soarercentral.com this is an Australian based forum which has a dedicated Celsior section.

Hi,

Trac codes are as follows,

24 - Open or short in sub-throttle actuator circuit

51 - Problem in engine control system

I got the wrong information. I need the Rear View Mirror for a '00 GS 300. Sorry :( It was past my bedtime when I was posting. I should have waited til I got home.

Plus this is the LS forum ! lol :D

You've answered your own question

I've never heard of this problem before but it is about impossible to diagnose the cause without removing the inner door

panel and looking inside, could be a loose door control rod for the lock, handle etc, the window mech or there's a quarter rattling around in there.

If you think it may be a quarter in there and you pay for my plane tickets I'll come over and take a look!! lol.

Hi,

To remove the headlight assy 1st lift the hood, you then need to remove the sidelight assy,look at the top of the sidelight assy and you will see a black plastic clip which is screws into the the top front edge of the fender,remove the screw and slightly lift up the black tab,grip the sidelight assy firmly and pull hard ( it is held in by plastic retainers and can be very tight but I haven't broken one yet by pulling very hard.

Look here.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_LEXU...EPGKA_8104.html

Once this is out you can get to the headlight fastening bolts shown in the link below,remove these and carefully manoevere the headlight out then you can get to the bulbs.

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_1993_LEXU...EPGKA_8101.html

Do not touch the bulb glass with your fingers when fitting as it will shorten the life of the bulb.

As for the window try some silicone type spray into the window guide channels but avoid getting it on the glass.

Ok, So my previous issue (when ignition is turned to start, no cranking, no click, nothing what so ever, dash is fully lit) happened a few more times late yesterday and today.

After fueling up last night I twisted the key and nothing. For the next 5 min or so I tried a total of 20-30 times and nothing, messed with the terminals- nothing. Put her in neutral and boom.

Early this morning, same thing, Went to pepboys to grab some tire and leather cleaner, ready to go and got nothing. After about 3 min I remembered last time about the neutral thing. Threw it in N and bang.

About 5 minutes ago, Working on a new ignition LED (via LEXLS, works great). After I finish, I want to put her back in the garage same deal, Only this time I put it in N after the 2nd try.....In business.

So, I guess I should be thankful that it is not the starter......Right ?

A gentleman mentioned earlier something about a Park position sensor, Hopefully it's an easy fix

Thanks, Pete

Could the issue be the neutral safety switch gone bad...??? That would cause such a condition.

Could well have been but it was 16 months ago with no update

Why would you be wanting to squeel the tyres?

The LS400 is built for comfort and safety not drag racing, squeeling tyres means you are losing tyre grip, this on a 250BHP rear wheel drive car with no traction control is no fun.

BTW do you get free tyres?

If you could do the test socket link the pins method it should give the codes just for the ABS ( the ABS light should flash the codes) as there are the same codes for the engine ECU but they mean different things as I showed in my previous post.

I think you will find the servo motors are the motors that control the various flaps inside the dash which direct the air flow and the air mixing i.e. hot from the heater matrix/cold from the AC/recirculated air/fresh air intake all these are linked to the AC ECU as this makes the necessary adjustments to the flaps/ductings to control the temperature set by the driver.

Have a look here at sections 20 onwards

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_U_1990_LEXU...L-AEPGKA_4.html

Having looked at the service manual the Air Mix Servo Motor is located behind the center of the dash but how you get to it is another question.

Hi are you correctly diagnosing here as the ABS light should flash giving you the fault codes if you short out terminals TC and E1 in the diagnostic socket.

Code 13 for the ABS/Trac indicates "an open or short circuit in the ABS motor relay circuit.

Code 51 indicates the ABS pump motor is locked.

Before doing anything else check the fuse # 17 in the footwell fuse panel it is the lower of the 2 fuses separate and to the right from the main block of fuses it's rated at 15A.

Not sure on that but I would think the precat ones were the primary sensors but I would confirm 1st

I have a 95 lexus ls 400. I purchased new distributors caps and distributor rotors for it. In my reading, one mechanical self help guru has said that I need to take out the radiator and rad hose to get good access to the the 2 distributors.

Do you guys think tht it is necessary to remove the radiator to do this install?

Thanks, Mike

Does the same mechanical self help guru also suggest taking the tires off the rims when replacing brake pads

All of the operation is performed from above,there is a fair amount of dismantling to get to them but nothing too serious.

I would also consider replacing the spark plug wires and plugs at the same time as it is easier than a second strip down later and the old wires are probably past their useful life if original and may be damaged on removal from the distributor caps.

ok well im gonna get the o2's fixed i thought those were the problem. i got the car put back on time and its still on time, it idles perfect, just doesnt go like it should.

With the faults you have it is probably in "limp home mode" this is done as a precaution by the ECU to prevent possible engine damage dont forget to reset the ECU by pulling the fuse to reset after repair ( make a note of any radio codes etc before doing this)

Hi,

First of all read your fault codes using this link

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

The most probable cause is a fault ABS wheel sensor as the braking and trac systems are interlinked.

Check each sensor and the wiring to them and clean the crud off them.

If you cannot find the bleed nipple someone has probably broken it off in the past.

You could try loosening the brake pipe/hose to the caliper and bleeding from there with someone to help.