W201 sweden

Seems like a dangerous problem, if I understood your description correctly. I suggest that you (or a shop) repair it properly ASAP. Don't wait. Of course it's not MY car, but I would not risk myself or any passanger in a car where the door locks can not be trusted! <_< Just my two cents...Good luck with your car! best regards, Alexander from Sweden

Thanks guys! You are the best! I had the strangest experience this evening. After the exact same driving distance, but in the opposite direction (FROM work instead of TO work),the same thing happend again. As I enter my driveway, BAM, lights in high intensity! The streets and road were pretty dark the whole trip, but I guess my rather powerful driveway light triggered the sensors! And this morning, the bleak (?) morning sun was enough to do the same! I'll have to test the sensors tomorrow! >can't wait< I know of this kind of features, but I would never expect to find it in my 10+ year old car. And nc211, the wiper trick I found out myself. Have seen it in "bimmers" in the early 90:s. Thanks for the info, though! :) And regarding the fun bit: Well, let's say... Hmmm I DO feel unusually relaxed driving this car. Just putting a good CD in the changer, humming along and cruise - nice. B) I will get back with an update later! /Alexander PS! branshew: Sorry anout not writing what year my car is. (-95) You can read it in the info box below my nickname on the left.

Just got my window washer pump replaced the other week, and another electrical gremlin shows up. :( This morning, while entering the parking lot at my work, the instrument cluster backlight suddenly lit up. Since I had the headlights on, the light was down to it's low power mode, but it jumped to high intensity. I tried switching the headlights on and off (OK), but the instrument light still remained. When I shut off the engine, all instrument light switched off, where it should have stayed on (because the headlights were still on.) Basically the cluster backlight only responds to the ignition switch, and not to the light switch. BTW, the reostat (?) (for adjusting the intensity) works fine. Any ideas? /Alexander

nc211: My advice; don't accept any rotors without these positioning screws. The play (without small screws) you describe is quite normal, the rotors expand as they heat up. Therefore they do not normally "lock" on the wheel screws/studs. The smaller screws center the rotors (thats why they are contersunk), to prevent and wobbling and vibration etc. The wheel studs apply the force that lock them to the hub. NOTE! It is VERY important to remove all rust, dirt etc from the hubs when replacing rotors! (If I suspect hub problems, I always check the run out (?) with a dial micrometer (word?). With dirty or warped hubs, you might not get wobble problems immediately, but chanses increase a lot for warped rotors! akewlguy: Replace or sand blast (?) your old rotors. Then get some high temp paint from your auto parts shop. (They know what to use.) Prime with a Zinc paint. It will look very nice, and it last for many years, if done properly! And only paint the NON friction part of the disc! ;) /Alexander

These new Nakamichis, are they strictly OEM, or are they part of some "standard" product range? Do you have any data or model number? /Alexander

I’ve discovered a strange fact about the Pioneer(?) –not Nakamichi- audio system in my –95 LS. The frequency response is completely different through FM radio and CD changer. The radio sounds very full; with lots of low and low mid, but the higher the frequencies are somewhat lower in volume (but they ARE there). Not very Hi-Fi, more like a pair of large Cerwin Vega speakers with some extra bass added on the amp. Easy to live with, and perfect for most music you hear on the radio. You can really turn it up without getting that ear piercing feeling. B) CD changer on the other hand sounds the opposite: thin, tinny and harsh, very much like Japanese home speakers. The high mids (2-4 kHz) are really biting, and lower frequencies are articulated, but weak. There is also a noticeable background noise in the CD signal chain. :( To even try to duplicate the radio sound, I have to turn bass knob from 12 o’clock to 4 o’clock, mid knob stays at 12, and treble knob from slightly over 12 to 10 o’clock. It does not get rid of the high mid peak, but at least you can tolerate the sound. Is this normal? Is the system set up such, that one can insert an EQ between CD changer and amp? Are there any in/out line level connections on the head unit? Is it possible (and worth) upgrading to the Nakamichi set up? Seems to be quality issues here… Any other suggestions? Responses are MOST welcome! /Alexander – music lover

Thanks for the replies! Turbo? :D Sure, I've had 3 turbo SAABs, both std. and with some performance mods. Ahhh, as the pressure builds up... B) But it involves a LOT of work, and the engine bay is already cramped, with an inline 6. Not much room for I/C and pipe work, although it CAN be done. A 220hp M104 24-valve slips right in, replacing the 160hp M103 - and the annual inspection would be a breeze. I guess I'm more on to the path suggested by nc211, but I'm still open to all ideas! /Alexander

ArmyofOne: sorry I did misinterpet you! Hope you have no hard feelings, I sure don't! ;) I'm so relieved that you were not pulling my leg, after all I came here to make new friends, not enemies... And for the kind words form you guys: Thanks a lot, I'm flattered! Regarding the rust removal/cleaning of pads: I promise you guys, you need to do it here! Take my word for it, I've been working on cars professionally for several years. (But I no longer do it - got some better education and moved on...) Countless times I've been forced to pry off the old pads with a crow bar, then grind the pad cut outs in the calipers clean, and spray some lubrication in the bellows to get the piston moving again... Like I said, MANY times... Volvo, SAAB, AUDI, VW, Renault, MB, BMW, Toyota, Nissan etc... Especially the rear brakes clogg up, and most makers include a pad removal/cleaning every second service or so. Also, factory rebuilt calipers are very common here, and the typical independant parts dealer "on the corner" has a selection on stock for the more common cars. One reason for the difference between US and Sweden may be, that most cars in US are bigger, and seem to have auto tranny, right? That would keep the rear brakes working a bit more, since there is less engine braking. Here, rear brakes on automatic cars are generally in a much better condition than on manual ones. And back to the original topic: The local authorized Toyota wanted approx. 1800 SEK (about $250) to do the service INCLUDING the oil! Since I bring my own oil, knock another 400 SEK from the price... :) total: around $200 With my other cars, I've done all the maintenance myself, and the only reason for me to let them do it, is to continue the (so far) full service history. /Alexander

It comes highly recommended. A lot of Porsche users swear by it, it seems. Please, I do not want an oil debate, I'm just curious about your (if any) Swepco experiences. /Alexander from Sweden

Just a short one... ;) Regarding the "ouch, almost stopped, front wheels locked, but rear weels keep pushing me forward" syndrome. I've done it many times, especially while driving powerful V8 / V12 MB:s very slowly on wet tile floors or in the snowy parking lot. There is absolutely no control, all that idle torque just puuuushes you forward. :o Most of the time I just select Neutral, and try to roll the last distance to a stand still. /Alexander

they clean the brake pads? <_< Yes of course, don't you? Or is it called something else in "real english"? I hope you are not making fun of me, just because my english is not perfect? What I mean is, that due to salt and snow/rain on the swedish roads, brake parts take a lot of abuse. This is valid for all cars, to some extent. Calipers, pads and parking brake wires corrode on their surfaces, and tend to get stuck. :o To fix it, dismantle the parts, and scrub them with a wire brush. Then apply some kind of "never seize" - personally I use a CRC product with cupper flakes in synthetic semi fluid grease. Works great. This process takes at least 15 min per axle - much more with some cars, time somebody has to pay for... I have not seen any car on which this is not necessary after a couple of years. best regards, Alexander

Mind-boggling! B) Anyone here who has tried the V12 twin turbo Mercedes SL 65 AMG? OK, it's not that extreme, but it still has a healthy 612 hp, and an electronicly limited torque of 1000Nm! :D It goes 0-60 mph in 4s, 0-100 km/h in 4,2s, in spite of weighing well over two tons without driver and fuel. And the 626hp SLR McLaren is probably even faster, going 0-100 km/h in 3,8s 0-200 km/h in 10,6s and 0-300km/h (188 mph) in 28,8 seconds! B) TOP SPEED is 210 mph! Almost Bugatti speed... /Alexander

Thanks guys! <sigh of relief> Price quoted is 4000 Swedish Kronor (SEK) = approx. $500! I find it very hard to belive, and perhaps the Lexus guy had included something extra, like brake pad removal/cleaning without telling me? Good thing I did not just order the job! I'll check with some Toyota dealer. By the way: I'm not sure how the maintenance plan is for the US cars, but in Europe it is as follows: The specified service distance is 10 000km = 6250 miles. Every odd 10 000 km service is a quick one. (The one I need to do.) The only thing exchanged is engine oil (plus filer), the rest is just inspection/check + door lock lubrication. Every even 10 000km (20 000, 40 000 etc.) a more time consuming service is done. Lots of checkpoints, plus the normal oil change etc. Additionally at 40 000km/24 months is brake fluid exchange. At 60 000km differential oil change. At 80 000km valve clearence adjustment, fuel filter change, cooling fluid exchange (or every 36 months) At 100 000km spark plug replacement. At 150 000km timing belt -"- At 10 years and then every two years, check air bag. When the "different distance" additionals line up, for instance at 240 000km, you will have a rather large bill waiting for you when you pick up the car... /Alexander

I recently bought a -95 LS 400 with full service history, and two owners before me. Normally, I do ALL maintenance myself, except paint and wheel alignment. (I have been in the profession, and I neither trust or like other people working on my car!) However, I have considered continuing servicing the car at a dealer, just to get keep all documentation up. So I checked the price for the next service at 210 000km (130 000miles), which is the most basic stuff you can do. Engine oil + filter change, checking light bulbs, thread wear, lubricate door locks etc. At the two official MB dealerships I've been working (some years ago), that kind of service would render a bill of approx. $220. (45 minutes labour = $120 + oil and filter). Lexus dealer here wanted $500, excluding the cost of the oil! (I prefer to bring my own oil.) Suddenly DIY seems as tempting as ever! What are the prices like in US? Is the Lexus workshop 2-3 times as expensive as FORD etc?

If you don't mind: ;) Parked next to my -95 LS 400, my -91 MB 190E 2.6 Sportline seems to long for some TLC. - I have considered selling it, to buy a better car for winter use. (a mid size FWD hatch back, like SAAB or AUDI). Cabin and luggage space is not big in the 190. - I have also thought about making some performace improvements to it, like larger brakes (from some fast W124 model) and perhaps a more powerful engine. (It is time for a big brake job anyway, so there will not be much extra cost to upgrade.) - The last (and easiest) alternative is to just keep it in a factory standard set up, accepting the car for what it is. Do you people have any good ideas for me? BTW, don't tell me to trade it for a IS 200! I've just bought the LS, and I do not plan to trade my trusty MB for one more car of a brand, that I have no personal experience from yet. /Alexander from Sweden

Bringing up an old thread here... Personally I'm not very impressed with the MB's of the last years. I have been working at two different MB dealerships in Sweden, and I have seen the steady decline of quality. The mess MB is in today is their own fault! I had customers telling me that they had been driving MB for 30 or more years, and never had any real trouble until their last car. Corrosion, electrical gremlins, parts and materials wearing out at no time etc. On one specific (rather new) car the clutch master cylinder broke. We put in a new one, which was also defective. After a second, new was put in, the customer left... ... only to return a few days later. Cylinder broken - again! New one put in - again. We had whole boxes with brand new, defective fuel filters from factory. Seat belts, computers, brake light switches - if it's there, it breaks! But the really annoying thing is that the spare parts for the old, GOOD cars are also dropping in quality! So if you repair your W126, W201 or W123, the new parts will not be as good as the car originally was! Still there are some very good things with the company: You can get your own spare parts catalogue! (you may need it ;) ) Even if your car is really old, they will have the parts for it! :D They were once (no longer) REALLY in the technical (mostly safety stuff) frontier. The old ones (pre -94) have very good corrosion protection. They are built to endure high speed driving without breaking a sweat. BUT! These facts are no longer enough for me, I need something more and better. PS. anyone interested in buying my MB 190E? :P just my 0,02 Euro... /Alexander

Seems this thread caught a lot of interest. :) I have to agree with a lot of you. I bought the car to get something super reliable, comfortable and reasonable in costs and emissions... Perhaps the other qualities grow on you, just like you say? In my work a often drive long distances in rental cars, brand new ones from Volkswagen/AUDI, SAAB, Nissan etc. Very few of them are better to drive than my girlfriends -92 MB 300TE 24v, and her car has 200 000 miles on the clock! And I think the LS is actually a notch better than her MB, in aspects of "travelling quality"... Perhaps that IS addictive? :D And guys, I think the LS design looks a bit better now, guess I'm getting acustomed to it? ;) You all have a happy new year! /Alexander

Thank you! :) /Alexander

Hi guys! I'm almost overwelmed with all the responses! Thanks! First: this forum is sure one factor that made me buy it! (that's good!) Secondly: I live in the southern parts of Sweden, and I have to my knowledge no problem with lack of sunlight! B) The purchase was done after a LONG and VERY thorough line of investigation, comparison, "need analysis" and "objective targeting". (All this mumbo jumbo means I really tried to select the best -if perhaps not the most tempting- car (size+brand+model+actual car) for me. I've eliminated SAAB 9000 turbo, Mercedes W126 and W124 as well as Buick Park Avenue and a brand new Ford Focus alcohol fueled from my list. In trying to just looking at the facts, I resisted the mighty 500E and the super "all rounder" 9000 Aero (SPG in US?) etc. FUN! but the BEST? perhaps not... I just hope the car grows on me, or I will at least have one really fine transportation! BTW...The other car I have today (MB 190E 2.6 Sportline manual) is very special to me, for reasons I can not grasp?! It is not very fast or fun, and could be both more comfortable and fuel efficient... Still I really like it, and I find it hard to part from it! just my $0,02 and then some...

Hi there! Seems very much engine related to me too. To get this kind of huge power loss, you need to dramatically block the I/O gasflow, fuel flow, or set ignition WAY off. (Small misfires, worn valve seats etc have less influence on power. Even a complete loss of one cylinder will have less impact.) Since ignition is computer set and normally very reliable, clogged fuel filter is first thing to check = replace! After that, check/replace air filter. Then check back pressure in exhaust (or let a garage do it for you!) Good luck! /Alexander from Sweden

I searched the forum, but found no information regarding the washer pump. (Presume it's dead since I've found no broken fuse, and there is no sound as i press the button?) Is it located below the battery with the fluid container? In that case, does it mean I have to remove the front fender or bumper/spoiler to replace it? Replies are greatly appreciated! /Alexander from snowy Sweden

As the headline says - I bought a -95 LS 400 the other day. Solid black with tan interior. All options (I think...) except moon roof. Leather, TRC, air suspension, heated rear seat, alloys for both summer and winter tires etc... :) OK condition, needs some repainting due to scratches. The ride home from the dealer (560 km = 410 miles) was really nice - ride quality is better than most new car's. However I had a flat tire on the highway, which I had to replace in pouring rain, almost freezing temperature and darkness. (Is that the kind of thing that "bonds" you to your car?) NOTE! Strangely enough I feel absolutely no emotional connection to this car!? No thrill of the new aquisition (sp?), no longing to drive it, nothing... Will this develop over time? (Even my old subcompact Renault had a tiny corner in my heart!) Today I hardly know why I bought the LS - it has not left the garage since I got home with it - last Wednesday. /Alexander from Sweden edit: forgot to put my in name...

There seems to be a lot of people focusing on the SAAB brand? That is not my point! My point is that I can see a other (cheaper) cars equal or better in the longetivity of the cloth, leather, suspension parts, plastic surfaces etc. Even an old SAAB (superior to the GM-SAABs) might stand up as an equal/peer in durability. /Alexander

In that case, does anybody have any idea what could be wrong? I consider to buy the car in spite of the heating problem, but it would be nice to know what cost there is to it. /Alexander

A lot of SAAB opinions, in spite of the brand's minor role in US... :) That was however not my point. My point is, that som brands (even SAAB... :) ) build cars with MATERIAL (if not drive) quality that exceeds Lexus and BMW and MB, without charging a leg and an arm for it. My uncle has a -92 Mitsubishi Lancer (Golf sized japanese) with approx 100 000 miles on it. Had it since new - car still looks very good. That car is certainly built to a price, but it just keeps giving trouble free service, year after year. BTW, SAAB was totally independent until GM bought it in -89 (?). A few years later FORD bought Volvo's car division. /Alexander