fencera

That's good to hear. I already have a puller and in fact have already ordered the arms this morning. If nothing else, the service is fantastic as Lisa Arnott was extremely pleasant when she had to call me to follow up on some minor details. I ask about the Daizen bushings because I already have ordered an entire set for the front end. If while I have everything apart, I could put them in, that might make sense. From what I understand they (Daizen) should tighten things up some and be more durable in the long run. However destroying(?) whatever is in there now (Arnott) may not be the best idea when I could simply wait a long time until they wear out on their own. Thanks for your input.

One more question. Has anyone tried to put their Daizen bushings into the Arnott UCAs? Thanks.

IS400- Search the term LS400 ball joints on ebay. You should see them as one of the results. Has anyone with the Arnott UCAs on had any durability problems [yet]? Given their reputation with LS400 suspension, I am leery of buying these arms. However, I could buy three sets before they cost as much as the Lexus parts... Regarding installation, it seems that I should make sure to have some washers and perhaps a hammer handy. Has anyone else had any other problems? Thanks!

1. Replace your PCV valve. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/emission/pcv_valve.html 2. Look into a K&N air filter. They can help. 3. If you're really desperate (or just next time), change your spark plugs. I am currently using Brisk LGS plugs. Little known company, but their product is great. 1-2 MPG more over what I was getting before. Also seem (?) to result in slight performance increase. Who knows about that part... Cleaning your throttle body may also help. I am not sure if that has any potential fuel efficiency benefits or just general smoothness. I guess that's pretty much it, not much different than what you originally listed. My '90 LS400 with over 305,000 miles is getting about 25 on the highway and about 20 in the city. I generally don't drive gently, but I do almost entirely highway driving. Hope that helps.

I had exactly the same problem. I was also lucky enough to still be under warranty. The dealership did however mention that there was some sort of service bulletin on the camera malfunctioning like this... Good luck.

You mentioned that your TRAC light sometimes comes on but not all the time. I have a similar issue and it is related to my idle speed. I recently cleaned the throttle body and stupidly took off both the TPS and trac sensor. When it came time to put them back on, I did not do so correctly. I found the idle speed can be adjusted by rotating the TPS sensor. The plastic body holding it allows for rotation and adjustment of the idle speed when the screws retaining it are loosened some. With some time and patience, I was able to get my idle speed back to where it should be. However, my TRAC light still comes on sometimes. Oddly enough, it is directly related to how long I have the key in the ACC position before starting the car. If I immediately start the car, it normally won't come on. If the key sits in the ACC position too long, there are a series of clicks under the hood and the TRAC light will then come on and stay on. Given the only thing I did was remove the sensor from the throttle body, there must be some trick to getting it put back on correctly. Unfortunately, I have not been able to figure out what it is. Good luck.

The wiring to control the CD player would need to be run from your head unit into the trunk of the car. It needs to be installed; you won't have it if your car didn't originally have a CD player. Bit complicated... Not to mention the fact that your trunk lining will be wrong and you will also need the mounting brackets to mount the cd player properly. On top of that I am not even sure that you can just swap a Pioneer for a Nakamichi... they have different wiring harnesses. On top of that, they have different amplifiers. See attached. Personally, I would either send the current head unit you have away for repairs or go with something after market. I just faced a similar decision and decided to repair my current head unit and create a line in (but I have the cd player so it is easier to create a line in). I sent my unit here: http://www.videoservicestop.com. Got it back 3 days later and in addition to fixing what was wrong, I had them replace all of the little lights that create the back lighting. I am extremely pleased. Good luck. be_291.pdf

I am at a bit of a loss as to the point of this unit. Doesn't it accomplish exactly the same thing as the override input that you can do whenever starting the car? Ie: Hit menu, volume, tap upper right, lower right etc until the override screen pops up. Pushing 7 keys that take all of 5 seconds seems to be a safer (no disassembly required) and cheaper (although this is almost irrelevant) way to accomplish the same thing. I'd have to enter the override code more than 600 times before it became worth my time to take apart the head unit. Am I missing something?

There may be a better way, but here is one easy method of getting to the gas in the tank: 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Pull back the trunk lining (remove the screws at the top and bottom under the rear parcel shelf) 3. You're now looking at the tank. There is a plate there clearly attached to the tank. Assuming your gas level is below at about 2/3rds, you're safe to remove it without spilling fuel everywhere. I think there are two sensors to disconnect before pulling the plate and the fuel level sending units out of the tank. If you take apart the plastic box, you can clean off the contacts on the fuel level sending unit. This made it so I once again received accurate fuel level readings. 4. You now have a huge hole into the tank. Your siphoning should be pretty easy now. Good luck.

They are for the fuel level sender units. One for the little orange light, the other for the gauge reading.

The problem is gone on it's own - the season is over :) As odd as it seems, the trac light goes on only in the snowy season... I had it a couple times last year, but it was much worse this year. The light stopped go on after well into hot summer season - I guess as someone mentioned in one of the forum postings here, it has something to do with one of the sensors. Later... This question may not be relevant, but is the relay you are talking about the one that is on the throttle body next to the throttle position sensor? If it is, how did you reinstall it? I keep getting a click under the hood ever since I stupidly removed both the TPS and the Traction control related sensor next to it. Thanks!

I am confused. The part numbers nc211 just gave seem to be for a '95-'00 LS400. Commish's '91 and my '90 seem to have a slightly different set-up involving a differently shaped grommet/insulator and there is only one of them. Attached is a picture for a '90-'94. The part in question is listed as #2. I believe it is different. Although I do not have a part number, the picture is the standard one that comes up when looking at parts on-line. Thanks.

Anyone have any ideas? It is a rather ominous clicking noise everytime I start the car.

I second this. Does anyone know how to adjust the TRAC sensor? Although my TRAC light is not on, there is an audible clicking noise whenever I turn the key to the ACC position that was not there before I cleaned the throttle body (and stupidly removed the two sensors). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Yep, that is where mine is cracked as well, looks like a piece of christmas tinsle across. I was told that the rain sensor might not work properly if I replaced the windshield with anything other than Lexus glass. Given the cost difference you were quoted (and the cost difference between a Lexus windshield with and w/o the sensor) you may have the same problem, I am not sure (is the rain sensing only after '04?). The cost I was quoted was about $500 w/o the sensor and about $1100 with. The list price was about $600 and $1200 respectively. All prices are for Lexus glass. They also talked about some subcontractor they use that uses non-Lexus glass and warantees all the work, but I don't remember the details. Sorry. I was also told that the crack was the result of a "stress fracture" and that it probably wasn't worth replacing because of the trouble getting a good fit on the new glass (this by a lexus dealership). Granted, my crack is not visible when in the driver's seat... so I don't know what it's worth to you. Anyways, good luck.

Out of curiosity, where is yours cracked? Mine cracked at the base where the windshield wipers are so it's not really all that noticable...

People have had these shields damaged by road debris. I had half of my own ripped by concrete chunks on the road that were unavoidable. I would much rather this piece of plastic be damaged or destroyed than the hoses etc that are exposed under my engine if I was to not have this cover in place. In addition to whatever miniscule aerodynamic benefits this shield serves (which it definately does-- see http://www.insightcentral.net/encyclopedia/enaero.html for one basic example), it protects. Protection is a pretty important benefit to me.

I agree with the last post by 1990LS400. Although on a very temporary basis I had to cut new holes in the shield and use wire to hold it up, I recently bought a new one. It's worth the peace of mind. The first dealership I got a quote from wanted $220+ and then I would have had to pay tax. I asked a number of other dealerships and the lowest was Park Place @ $153 w/ free shipping and no sales tax (apx $190 was next closest). The part no. for my '90 (I am pretty sure it's the same for '93) is #51441-50013 and for the bolts 90119-06375 [4] 90119-06361 [8] 90159-60507 [5] I don't remember why these are the bolts/washers, it doesn't seem to add up right... but looking back, this is what the email from the dealership said. I hope you find something that works for you.

I got a brand new one from Park Place Lexus (actually, both handles for the driver's side of the car). The front was $135 and the rear $88. I specified the color when I ordered, Flint Grey 180, a color I don't believe is used anymore. Although it took a while, both handles match almost perfectly (after 300,000+ miles the paint has faded some!). I am happy with the price, parts and results.

ie: If the seat heaters work, you have trac. Attached are diagnostic and mechanical pages from the manual that may help determine the problem. I have no idea how mechanically inclined you are, some of the procedures are rather complicated. Good luck. br_165.pdf br_168.pdf br_163.pdf br_155.pdf br_76.pdf

Something obvious, but I would double check to make sure your car does in fact have traction control. It is possible that the previous owner changed out a broken ashtray with one that had the button despite the fact the car doesn't have trac. I have seen it before. 1. Make sure the throttle cable cover says "trac" on it (under the hood). 2. There should be two sensors, not one, on the side of the throttle body that are easily visible. Probably isn't the problem, but just in case...

What about all of the rebuilt compressors on ebay? Has anyone had any luck with those? If so, a particular seller?

I have been looking into this also and I think I am going to use these: Brisk Premium LGS ($105 w/ shipping for all 8). Has anyone else tried these out? It seems like a good product and one of the easiest and cheapest performance "mods" ever. A dyno'd review was done here: http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techartic...sk_spark_plugs/ And while I am not particularily interested in the HP gains (if they would even be noticable in our cars), there should also be increases in fuel efficiency which would be nice...