fencera

Hey all- This thread was really helpful... For what it's worth, the VSC/Check VSC warning message came up on our 2004 LS430 mid-trip a week or so ago (about a 400 mile trip). Just got back and had a chance to look into it. Sure enough, after charging the battery for about an hour, the warning message doesn't come on anymore. Didn't have to reset the code or anything; it just went out (briefly came on, then went off after first start after charging the battery). Just throwing my experience in there... check the battery first if you have this warning come on!

Hey- I have a 1990 LS400 also. I replaced my alternator a few months ago. I used a Bosch W0133-1602536. It has functioned perfectly and was easy to install. It cost me under $150 shipped. (search for the part online and then search for some sort of coupon code etc for wherever you decide to buy... I got free shipping and $10 off doing so) I did have to pay a core deposit although it was credited back to me reasonably quickly. Replacement was pretty straightforward. I used this site to give some pointers: http://www.lextreme.com/alternator.html When you are taking out the old alternator, make sure the steering pump is not leaking fluid onto the alternator... this is a classic cause of alternator failure on these cars. I think that covers it. Sorry to hear you had trouble. Good luck getting it fixed.

This also seems plausible. I'm going to keep the car until at least fall, so this might be a good mid-June project when my band the month off and I actually have a weekend to myself. Thanks! Anyone know of any handy guides for where/what lights to get? I have to order some of the amber/yellow lights for the front, so I might as well order a bunch of them together. Hey, I have a 90 and had a similar problem before with my car. The light out dash light kept coming on and one of my bulbs was intermittent. Or so I thought... It took a long time and many swapped bulbs, but somehow a portion of my wiring harness was simply developing too much resistance. I had cleaned both ends of the socket (make sure you do this-- just take off the tail lights and spray/scrub connectors as previously suggested), changed to 1157 bulbs instead of the 1157LL bulbs (they have some sort of different resistance I thought might solve the false reading) but in the end, my wires had simply worn out. I asked someone on ebay who was parting out a car to list the section of wiring and picked it up for under $10. I guess this wasn't that helpful other than to give you another idea of what might be wrong... Good luck narrowing it down! (oh and it's not a problem for long trips and I wouldn't try to solder anything other than a splice... the connectors should work if they are clean!)

Hey- I've done just this before without removing the rear axle or any extra parts (I also did the front at the same time). I installed new lexus struts, springs, all of the rubber and new mounting pieces for the shocks (I can't remember the exact term-- but these go at the top and have three bolts you use to secure the top of the shock). The entire unit will come out very easily once you have removed the rear deck and the nuts up top there (3 each side) and the lower nut/bolt securing the shock absorber. You may have to turn it some as the coil spring may touch the axle. To reinstall, you must be certain to line up the three mounting bolts in relation to the hole for the bold on the strut itself!!! Look at the orientation of the parts when you take the absorber apart (or use the one you're not currently replacing for reference). The hardest part of reinstalling the absorber will be getting the alignment between the bottom bolt and top three correct. Having someone there to help/swear at will be a good idea. I did manage to do it alone, but it was not easy. Regarding the axle, on the reinstall you may have to do a little turning of the coil spring to avoid the axle but there is no problem. It wasn't a big deal at all. Just make sure to use common sense.

We also had trouble with our fuel pump. The car kept cranking for longer and longer before it started. Ended up having the fuel pump and pressure regulator replaced under warranty. Good luck.

I had something similar to that after seafoaming... turned out I needed to replace my plugs. Took care of the problem right away :) Good luck!

From my understanding, a stated value policy does not guarantee a minimum above book value but instead sets the maximum amount that can be reimbursed. "The "Stated Amount" form states the insurance company will pay the lesser of: 1. The Stated Amount or 2. The cost to repair the covered auto not to exceed the "Stated Amount" or The "Actual Cash Value"" http://www.vehicleappraisers.com/Insurance_Information.html In our case, the actual cash value would almost certainly be the blue book value. What we need is an agreed value policy. This type of policy guarantees a certain reimbursement regardless of the value of the car. http://www.insurancejournal.com/news/south...05/24/55395.htm It looks like Chubb is the only company to do this outside of classic or collector insurance which limits the car to show use. This seems to mean that self insuring is the only way to go as Chubb insurance would probably be too expensive for cars worth so little (in addition to in an absolute sense most likely!). Maybe there's something else out there... but agreed value policies seem to be pretty hard to come by.

I am interested in exactly this! It is frustrating to me that there doesn't seem to be anything we can do... I haven't been able to find any solutions and I would be willing to pay quite a premium for this service. Please let us know if you find anything. I will make sure to do the same. Good luck.

You know, I have to say, while it could be something to do with your transmission, it's more likely that one of your spark plugs is fouled. About a year ago I seafoamed my engine before a tune up. It fouled one or more of my plugs apparently. Before I realized this, I thought that something had gone wrong with my transmission as it coincidentally started leaking fluid at the same time. Turns out, one of my plugs was messed up from the foam and the shuddering around shift points I was noticing was from the plugs, not the transmission As the transmission shifts, the load on the engine changes. I thought that my transmission was slipping or otherwise broken... turned out that with the shift in engine load, one of my plugs couldn't "keep up" and was causing the shudder. Bottom line: When was the last time you did a tune up?

I didn't switch to E3. It wasn't 16 years ago. It was one year ago when I went from dirty plugs to clean. I don't know where 16 came from and I certainly wouldn't have had fouled up plugs after 2 years. I don't even really care why my mileage changed that much. This change did occur. I pretty much explained the changes as they took place... I went from pretty crappy/average mileage during perfect highway situations to really good mileage. Maybe I've just gotten to having a lighter foot. Who cares at this point. Both numbers are reasonable, perhaps the reasons are up for some discussion. Given my Rolls gets about 8 mpg, my Bentley 14 and this car is just a hobby of mine, the reasons for the mileage of this car is the least of my concerns. Have fun figuring out what really happened!

It was what was actually observed over the same trip year to year on a 300+ mile trip. There's nothing ridiculous about it. The previous spark plugs were in terrible condition and while the air filter wasn't previously dirty, changing it to a kn certainly did help some. You can attempt to quantify exactly what percentage of my gain may be attributed whichever on your own time. Changing the pcv valve, replacing the plug wires and two seafoam treatments were of course all done as part of the tuneup. It all seems to make sense to me. The dyno numbers or w/e testing all point to similar results as does my own experience. Will you get the same gains? Probably not. By the way, the engine is in great shape and as I said before, still operates wonderfully. I have no idea what sort of overhaul it may require. There are no leaks from the valve cover gaskets, cam gaskets or rear engine seal. The engine does not burn oil and the valves are still all within spec. Of course this is an unusual result, but in looking around the resulting mileage is not absurdly high. Those two changes from stock certainly improved the mileage over what I was getting back in 92,93 when the car was still relatively new (maybe 25,26).

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techartic...lugs/index.html I am using those plugs in my '90 ls400 with 300,000 + miles. I've had the car since new and must say the car runs stronger now than ever. At the same time I installed those plugs I put in a k&n filter and while I doubt i'd notice the perhaps 10 hp increase over stock, it does seem more powerful and objectively gets much better mileage. I've gone from 23-24 on the highway to 28-29. That's with just those two changes. Pretty spiffy.

I must be confused. I thought the link that I provided specified the tool was for bolt, not pulley removal. "Remove and Install the crank bolt on Lexus/Toyota with ease" This tool, for bolt removal (I think at least): http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...amp;ProdID=7204 looks quite different than the tool specified in step 18 here: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html for pulley removal. Is there another tool or bolt I am getting mixed up? Perhaps this link explains it more clearly: http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1/page_...ley_holder.html

This what we are talking about: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...amp;ProdID=7204 ?

Did you take the traction control tps sensor off the side of the throttle body when cleaning it? (it's one of the two little black plastic pieces that attaches to the side). If so, you probably did not set the little springs and clips inside correctly when you put it back on. I had this problem after cleaning it myself. You'll know this is your problem if when you put the key in ignition and turn it to "on" you hear clicking noises from the sensors and then the TRAC light comes on.