Lex01_430

BTW I got an aftermarket actuator kit ($20) and it now works...now the left rear does work too. same symptoms...

i am not sure if this will work, but logically if you splice the wires from the turn signal this should work as long as you completely disconnect the other wires to the harness. this should work however the lights will only blink/turn on when the blinker is on.

ok not that easy but easier than taking off the 3 bolts that hold the starter in place. if i were to do it again i would reuse the old gaskets and just change the contacts first to see if it works. if it does work then i would install the new gaskets and return the starter. if i'm correct then you can check the contacts by removing 2 bolts on the front...if im not then just forget this and replace the starter. cost difference is $5-$10 for the contacts vs $200+ for the starter.

1. Lock with key (yes) 2. Lock with manual actuator button (yes) this is by hand...? 3. Unlock with key (yes) 4. Unlock with manual actuator button (yes) 5. Lock with remote (no) 6. Lock with electrical lock switch (no) 7. Unlock with remote (yes) 8. Unlock with electrical lock switch (yes) gotta verify but im pretty sure. car is down the street

since this may not be an electrical problem do you think it would be hard to make some jig that will make it work again? i don't understand how something mechanical like a push/pull rod will break.

good luck if you plan on doing this. i did mine last weekend. it is very easy except when you actually remove the starter. There are 3 bolts that are long and hard to remove and even harder to tighten. i used a swivel head ratchet, but it stil was retarded. u need to remove the intake manifold unless you are some sort of contortionist.

i tired to remove the alarm brain and i still get the same roblem. it looks like the switch is trying to move but is stuck...could there be something wrong with the actuator that moves the switch into the lock position?

i thought i had the problem down, but now have some questions. i took me about 5 minutes to start my car earlier, but when i crank it now 5 or 10 minutes later...no problem...? WTF? so is there some sort of explanation why it will start warm as opposed to cold. we did play with the battery cables a little before the car started, however this is a new battery and the cables seem to be fine. is there something i'm missing? does the starter hold some sort of charge that will allow it to start on a warm engine? any possibilities? please help

My car is getting worse and i need to find the starter kit for an 01 gs430. is it the same as in the link? http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/starter/24.jpg also does anyone have the instructions? I have seen the instructions for the 00 gs400, but is it the same as the 01 gs430? please help i need to fix this asap

Does anyone have the info to change or clean the starter on an 01 430? is is the same as the 400? where do we get the solenoid kit from?

I have an 01 430 with the same "click" problem. Does anyone have the info to change or clean the starter on my year? where do we get the solenoid kit from?

personally i would look for one with the longest warranty. it's a 5yr or 50k from the factory. good luck.

all dealers mark up the prices especially for labor. my suggestion would be to check online (even ebay). i found dealers that sell genuine stuff at cheaper prices online. btw i bought a full drop suspension system for about 300. installation was about 200.

what does the door/body ecu look like and approximatley where do i find them?

correction...front left driver side doesnt work. I got the alarm and all it does is make the lights blink. its a viper alarm. is it kinda weird that the alarm doesn't do anything at all. also isnt it weird for me to use the key to lock the driver side from the passenger side considering the existing problems? so i guess i am left with taking out the alarm if i can figure out what the drawing is directing me to do. hope this works.

so i took off the door panel and damn there is a birds nest. i believe there is an aftermarket alarm. i don't know how much of a problem this could be since i have had the car for a year...if i can get the aftermarket alarm remote maybe i'll try to use that. i'll try the battery, however the other stuff seems hard. is there some sort of diagram to determine what wires should go where?

So what does that mean? do i need to change my locking mech? i checked if the switch will work, however it does not lock or unlock only my remote will unlock the door (not lock).

Here is the problem. i searched, but didn't find any car with the exact same symptoms. I can lock my door with the key or manually, but not with the remote or door switch. I can however Unlock the door with the remote everytime. (I can't seem to remember if i can unlock it from the inside) Is this the same problem as everyone else?

has anyone put lexus centercaps in HP evo rims?

I don't mean to be a smartass, but things contract when its cold...wow sorry bout the car. that really sucks. i have similar problems that could not be diagnosed, but have not reoccured since the repair place took everything apart and put it back together. aparently it fixed itself

i remember having some problem like this before...i tried to hold the sleeve back to let the fumes escape while only putting the nozzle in. If i recall this seemed to help

i had the same prob...took it to lexus and had them change all the recomended belts @40k. i believe it was around $200. i took all the advice for the sunroof however mine still squeaks.

just an idea...post it on ebay an do some exchange...at least there is some sort of contract involved

aftermarket rims may need centering rings. just do a search and you will find loads on this. try searching lug-centric and hub centric

In my opinion I would stay stock if you're not going to get 19/20's staggered. The staggered makes a big difference...as i recently got my rims. There's nothing wrong with stock...