Lexus_DK

At this point, just tow the vehicle to a reputable Lexus dealership. Your better off having a Lexus technician just diagnose it, they can give you a better understanding with a health check/data. You probably have a bad brake switch, possibly corrosion in one of the wires, maybe a bad ground or a bad ecu. Does the vehicle at least detect the key? Try unlocking/locking with key fob. Then do what said in previous post.

Does it detect your key fob at least? Try hovering the key fob directly over the start button without pressing anything and see if it turns green.

New bearings came in, here's what they look like.

You should double check and physically inspect that crankshaft gear. I mean take the timing covers back off and look. It personally happened to me twice. I broke a tooth once and it threw a misfire but no check engine light codes came on. There was another incident where I accidentally dropped the crankshaft gear and it cause a no start issue. I'm telling you, that crankshaft gear has to be dead on point to specifications.

Was the vehicle running normal before you did the timing belt? Before jumping into any other conclusions, trace back your work and try to remember what you could've done that caused it to not run. It probably something simple and your just over looking it.

So the grease method works. I tried lenore's method and was just curious if it could eliminate the noise. I guess the bearings were still in good shape that it just needed some lube. Even though the new bearings hasn't arrived yet, I'll keep them for backup. But here's me pressing the sleeve back in the old bearings.

There's not much lateral play. I'm actually going to keep and experiment with the old bearings. I popped the two black rubber covers off and noticed it was dry (no grease. I went ahead and packed the bearings with hi-temp grease. I'm going to see if this works.

Today I used the shop press to extract the bushing/sleeve holding the two bearings together. You will need this sleeve for the new bearings. Here are some pictures of my setup, I forgot to take pictures of it on the shop press. I used a 30mm and a long 10mm impact socket. But you get the idea: And then once youve pressed the inner sleeve all the way through: Heres the two bearings separated:

I thought about doing that. But at this point I didn't want to take the chance of having to replace the bearing later down the road.

First of all, is the check engine light on? Any codes? Is the Abs/Trac or the VSC lights on? I agree with Filehorse. Have the dealership diagnose your vehicle. Most shops usually charge a 1 hour diagnostic fee between $120-160 to run a Health Check. They can provide a live data and pinpoint which cylinder or cylinders are actually misfiring or whether you have any failing sensors.

I'm sorry to hear about your experience at that particular Lexus dealership. But if anything the service manager should've done a better job in handling the situation. Most dealerships usually have a wheel repair/touch up contractor onsite. I'm not sure why that one didn't. And for a mechanic to have damaged your wheels, shows that they can careless about anything else about your car. Are there any other reputable Lexus Dealerships near by you can take your vehicle to. Any near Costa Mesa, Irvine, Newport Beach or Huntington Beach area?

Did you refill the coolant properly after replacing the radiator hoses/thermostat? What I mean is, did you bleed out any air that might have been trapped inside the cooling system? I found it best to have a Lisle brand coolant funnel attached to the radiator while filling the coolant. Then set the climate control heat at high while running the engine. Hold the rpm up to 3,000 until the heat is nice and hot inside the cabin and the cooling fans kick on. Keep an eye at the funnel for a few minutes until no more bubbles rise.

When you did the timing belt, did you remember to take the 10mm bolt with the metal "L" shape guard off below the crankshaft? It's real easy to miss. If you forget and try pulling the crankshaft gear off, you will break a tooth or bend it. If the tooth is slightly bent by a millimeter, it can throw the timing off and you can experience a no spark. The next thing you can check, is make sure all spark plug ignition coil connectors are seating properly. I know the plastic coil connectors usually get brittle and break into pieces.

Check to see if your battery is good. Are you getting 12.6 Volts. Is the battery health good and is the CCA of the battery within range? Perform a Voltage drop test. And check to see if the starter is installed correctly for a proper ground. Go back and check your work of when you installed the starter. Is the Signal wire and power cable to starter have a good connection?

I advise NOT to use a hammer to remove nor install the bearings in. Use a shop press or a bearing press kit. If you are creative, you can come up with your own press kit with various washer, a long bolt, nut and some spacers. Use some long handle ratchets and/or wrenches. It makes it easier and ensures a proper press out and in of the bearing. Here's what I used:

So my buddy has a 2007 Rx350 and has been experiencing a high pitch noise in the engine bay. After diagnosing it, turns out it was the belt tensioner pulley. After going to Advance auto, Autozone, oreillys, lexus dealership and Toyota dealerships; turns out they don't sell the tensioner pulley itself but only the whole Tensioner assembly. But the messed up part is, they can sell the idler pulleys. I'm pretty sure this topic has been covered before. However after taking the tensioner pulley off, I figured you can replace just the bearing inside the pulley and save money. So I go and start pressing the bearing out. Measured it and tried cross referencing it with an aftermarket bearing. The OEM bearing is made by NSK Japan, part number #6203DUL1B. Now, you can not buy it from NSK because they don't sell these bearings to the public. I tried calling NAPA Auto, WorldPac, and IMC auto parts warehouse. No luck. But researched and found a company called SFK makes one similar to the dimensions as to the NSK bearing, SKF Part No. #6203-2RS-JEM There are several websites selling these SKF bearings online or even on eBay. You want to buy 2 bearings because there are two inside the pulley held together by a metal sleeve/bushing. I'm waiting on the bearings to come in so I can press them back into the pulley casing. Here is where I'm at at the moment:

Just make sure you ask for a health check print out via Techstream if you take it to the dealership or Lexus shop

If I were you, I'd take it to a reputable Lexus/Toyota shop and have them diagnose the issue. Most places charge 1hr diagnosis at $100-$150/hr. If anything I think you are thinking too much into it. It's probably a siezed caliper piston or maybe a bad brake actuator or something. Maybe it needs an abs/trac module update

Possibly a seized caliper. If anything have the front end lifted with a floor jack and check to see if there's any play with the wheels

Possibly a seized caliper. If anything have the front end lifted with a floor jack and check to see if there's any play with the wheels

Take it to the dealership. They have the techstream scanner to get rid of the vsc light and determine what sensor/sensor is the issue.