TrevC

Hi Charlie...welcome to the Club

I would run a complete diagnostic check on it before spending any money on parts that may or may not fix the fault.

If you know someone who has a decent scanner (snap-on, etc) plug in the next time it doesn't start and check for engine revs (crank sensor) while turning over...no revs, no crank signal! This would also result in no injector pulse, etc.

Another possibility could be fuel vapour lock or blockage in the system.

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers   Trevor

Hi Mark...welcome to the Club

Sounds like it could be bad fuel (water content, sludge) maybe change the fuel filter if it occurs again and/or change fuel supplier.

Let us know what you find 

Cheers   Trevor

Hi Austin...welcome to the Club

Look forward to reading your posts in the future

Regards   Trevor

Just thinking maybe another reset of the battery may help...got to be a good way of starting the diagnosis I guess?

Hi

I can only imagine that something was disturbed during the fitting of the Cat, may be worth dropping it into another garage for them to check the underside for loose or disconnected wiring from sensors, etc.

Maybe also worth disconnecting the battery and reconnecting to see if it resets any of the systems.

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers  Trevor

ECUs don't normally fail as a rule but see what the scanner reads out and let us know the outcome please

Hi...welcome to the Forum

Code P1600 is quite a serious issue with power supply to the systems. 

I would advise you take it to a good auto electrician to check over. However, a quick check of the battery terminals, earth connections, etc would be the first place to start.

Let us know how you get on with it.

Cheers   Trevor

Hi King....welcome to the forum!

was wondering if someone else would post up a response with the answer if they had come across this problem before.

I would imagine that if the amber engine light is constantly on that there is a current problem and it would be stored in the fault code memory.

I have found that sometimes only one of out around four scanners I have will only read certain cars....best one is always the Snap-On scanner....maybe worth trying a garage that has one?

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers,  Trevor

Hi Megan...welcome to the forum

I held back from responding straight away as I thought that someone might have had this problem before.

It sounds like the system has poor wiring as a result of the break in. I think the first place I would start is to check the damaged wiring to see if there is a fault there. Also, check the door switches are working...do the interior lights come on when the door opens, etc.

The key issue doesn't seem to be a problem as the car does run, meaning the immobiliser system and key are communicating. The only reason for the master key is to get another one duplicated from it if needed. Otherwise any other key used that allows the car to fun is fine.

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers,   Trevor

Hi Larry....welcome to the Forum!

I think I would agree with you on the fuel pump control, although I would look at the system relay first as its the cheapest and also the more likely candidate for failure.

Also, have known numerous cars with similar symptoms have problems with TPS.

The only real way to diagnose it to run a scanner in the OBD whilst on a drive and record the parameters to see what goes offline first...e.g. fuel pressure, tps signal. This generally narrows down the fault without having to replace too many parts to start with.

Let us know how you get on with it.

Cheers,  Trevor

If the system is too lean then generally it is drawing unregulated air before the Lambda...check the exhaust joints and check vacuum hoses for even the slightest leak, holes, etc.

This can be proved by putting it on a gas analyser and measuring the oxygen level which should be 0% with Co2 at 20%....if not you have a leak somewhere.

If it's top end rattle e.g. hydraulic lifters priming up, then it shouldn't be anything to worry about if it disappears in 1-2 seconds.

Mobil 1 is probably the best oil you can get so shouldn't worry about that unless its completely the wrong grade/spec for the car.

Hi Roxanne....welcome to the Club

I'm sure someone might be able to help you but I'm not familiar with any Lexus repairers in the US, good luck with your search

Cheers   Trevor

I think I would replace it before it throws the auxiliary belt as that would just result in more expense.

I guess if it's on its way out, then better to catch it before it totally goes

Oh my word!  That is quite something...obviously it never gets that hot here in England so not seen the problem before

Hi Chris

Is it a knocking sound or a tapping sound (e.g. top end or bottom end of the engine)?

Cheers,    Trevor

Hi William...welcome to the Club

Ouch!  that's a huge amount of money for a ballast.

Could only recommend looking for a complete unit in a breakers yard with good lenses

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers,   Trevor

Hi Debra...suggest that this leak may be either from the waterpump or a core/freeze plug behind the cover.

Would definitely advise repairing it sooner than later as the frequency of coolant loss seems quite high and may lead to overheating.

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers,  Trevor

There is usually a hose on the underside of the air cleaner assembly to allow crankcase vapour to be recirculated, so worth checking if you can access the area.

Good luck with the checks and let us know how you get on

can you not grind it off and then tap out the bolt/hole when it's out?  Obviously depends on space available though

I'm not sure, but over in the UK radio stations have moved away from AM to FM and even now are transferring over to DAB so possibly the radio stations are winding down the power on AM to put more power over to FM or DAB?   Just a thought !

I think it is a case of pulling fuses individually until the draw disappears and then you can dig deeper once you know which system it controls...time consuming but cheapest way to diagnose

Hi Michael...welcome to the Club !

I would firstly check the fuses as this sounds like a failure of one or more fuses...why they should blow is another question but for now I would check them against the location in the handbook and replace if necessary.

regards   Trevor

If it's a case of another ECU it will have to be coded into the car and probably the best thing is to get your own one rebuilt and therefore no need to recode

Hi Gray...welcome to the Club!

Probably best to use a multimeter or a probe to find which fuses are hot with ignition on as some change over time, e.g. relay kicking out after a certain time.

Regards   Trevor