TrevC

Hi Randolph....welcome to the Forum

On start-up the idle should be increased to around 1200-1300 rpm (raised idle) to speed up the engine/catalytic converter warm-up process.

Should last for around a couple of minutes maximum.

Something may be sticking in the idle control circuit if its that high...carbon build-up?

Keep us updated on what you find.

Cheers   Trevor

Looks like a great road Becki...looking through the photos of the Tail of the Dragon there does seem to be a lot of bike accidents :-(

Hi Paul

Thanks for posting the tutorial...very helpful to anyone who hasn't yet changed an HID and confirmation for those who have but weren't sure of whether they had done it correctly

Cheers   Trevor

Hi...and welcome to the Forum

Thanks for posting up the pictures...now I'm really jealous

What a gorgeous car !

Cheers   Trevor

Hi Samuel....welcome to the Forum

I would advise testing where the leak is coming through by using a Smoke Generator which emits smoke on the inside of the vehicle and you can then see where it is coming out of....and there's where the water is coming in.

Let us know what you find

Cheers   Trevor

I would always recommend a second opinion and in the case of the steering, it is not worth taking chances with leaking fluid.

But I'm sure the job could be done cheaper elsewhere .... worth a second quote!

I would then check the stop light switch which is on the brake pedal...if this is faulty it could hold the lights on.

Disconnect the wires and see if the lights go out, if so then more than likely the switch at fault.

Thanks for sharing this with us....its always good to hear that suggestions from members do actually work and even better when there is no cost involved

Hi Donald...welcome to the Forum

I would certainly attempt to fix it because if you've got to remove it to fit another one and strip it back to find out what is wrong...if you break it in the process there is nothing lost then

Let us know how you get on with it

Cheers   Trevor

Hi Juan...welcome to the forum

It sounds so much like a short circuit to me...however, quite where the fault is is another problem. I would probably start at the fusebox to ensure there is no water ingress or corrosion and work back from there.

Let us know what you find

Cheers   Trevor

Hi Paul....welcome to the Forum

First thoughts are transmission fluid level or quality ....possibly look at replacing fluid and filter?

Cheers   Trevor

Just what the Doctor ordered !

Hi Jim...welcome to the Forum

It could possibly be something within the steering column (such as bearing, joint, etc) but equally it could be the indicator switch gear or steering lock catching when the wheel is turned. I would be tempted to remove the cowlings and see if you can get a better view of what's occurring in there.

Let us know what you find

Cheers  Trevor

The Evap Solenoid is part of the emission control circuit...it is necessary to recirculate the fuel vapour to the tank and engine and really should be working to ensure the vapours do not build up and vent to atmosphere.

I agree with Steve...I drive a Honda which I bought on the basis that it is one of the most reliable vehicles in existence. However, I think Lexus is a most worthy competitor to Honda and may eventually end up overtaking them in the reliability tables that are published every year.

Each vehicle is different in the way it has been looked after and driven...it really is a case of having it thoroughly checked over before buying.

You could try gently tapping it with a spanner or something similar to break the taper...alternatively, it may require a small puller to separate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xwinscreen+wiper+blade+puller.TRS0&_nkw=winscreen+wiper+blade+puller&_sacat=0

Hi Matthew...welcome to the Forum

I'm sure someone on here will know the exact solution but if it's any consolation, it's a positive thing that the door is open as opposed to locked in the closed position as you can still access the mechanism and remove the door card easily.

I'm sure it's some linkage dropped off or broken but I'll let the experience of others guide you to the solution.

Regards   Trevor

I've used it for many years without problems however, they do state that it is a temporary solution but this was imposed on the manufacturers by the tyre companies to avoid any claims for any failures, etc.

The only problem you may find (but this will be instantly noticeable) is that sometimes (very rarely) is a slight imbalance as the Slime throws out centrifugally and doesn't adhere to the inside casing of the tyre....but only encountered that once on a Dunlop tyre.

Otherwise, I've never known any problems with using Slime for an extended duration or high speed (use it in my motorcycle for huge cross-continent trips) and also never had a puncture :-)

It could be a case of taking it for a blast to clear out the engine.

Keep it at relatively high revs to ensure its running clear.

Hi Shiela...welcome to the Forum

I have found with porous rims/tyres by filling them with 'Slime' it cures it permanently.

Here is a link from eBay (UK) but it might be available in the States under a different name.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SLIME-AUTO-TYRE-SEALANT-FOR-CARS-VANS-PREVENTS-REPAIRS-PUNCTURES-473-ML-/122263771366?hash=item1c777d18e6:g:C2QAAOSwJ7RYS~Vp

I've used it for years in Motorcycles, Campervan, Cars and never had a problem with punctures or loss of air.

Cheers  Trevor

Hi Jenna...welcome to the Forum

I would suggest replacing the oil next time it is due with an oil of equal quality (such as Castrol, Mobil 1 or similar).

As long as the oil specification is right then the rule of thumb is if you love your car then fit the best you can within your budget!

Let us know how you get on with this 

Cheers  Trevor

Hi David...welcome to the Forum

Also, congratulations on the purchase of your new Lexus...a great car indeed!

The section you have posted in is the correct one for a 2017 model as it is to the present day and specifically, the latest generation model of RX.

Regards,  Trevor

I would ask them to perform a cylinder leak down test which would confirm if the air is escaping past the rings, valves or through the coolant

Low compression on three of the cylinders would almost certainly confirm bent valves or a problem with pistons/bores.

The belt may have shredded a tooth or two at the crankshaft pulley which to all intentions looks like the belt is still intact but this is common on engines when starting up.

Good luck with it all and keep us informed of the progress.

Cheers  Trevor

Hi NIck...welcome to the Forum

I think it may be a whole load of trouble to swap units with compatible electronics without recoding.

Don't know what other members think...anyone done this swap before?

Cheers  Trevor