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TrevC

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Posts posted by TrevC

  1. Hi Andrew...welcome to the Forum

    Only thing I've really found with cars that have been laid up for a period of time is that the brakes seize, tyres perish and mould tends to grow inside the car....but otherwise if it's been stored in the dry, maybe just a change of fluids would suffice.

    Let us know how you get on with it, would be nice to see before and after pictures as well.

    Cheers   Trevor

  2. Hi Kelly...welcome to the Forum

    I find I get this on one of my cars and it's because the alloy rim is slightly corroded. I now alway fill my tyres with 'Slime' which cures leaks by vulcanising a hole when it leaks air and instantly seals....no more punctures or lost air pressure.

    Also, you can fill your tyres with Nitrogen which is more preferable than oxygen for maintaining air pressure in the tyres....although no good if you are losing pressure already.

    Let us know how you get on with it.

    Cheers  Trevor

  3. Hi Dan...welcome to the Forum

    That's really unfortunate about the 'clocked' mileage and it happens in the UK too.

    I think if you have documented history of the car, it's not too much of an issue about what the odometer states.

    Probably best to leave it like it is and then at least you haven't had any involvement in altering the mileage as well.

    Cheers   Trevor

  4. Hi Mark...welcome to the Forum

    I too am based in the UK and did you know there is a UK based Lexus Forum (part of this Forum) http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/

    The noise you describe does sound like a wheel bearing and the fact that your mechanic stated that there was minimal play suggests that when the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing it will load up on the bearing play and generate the noise.

    As for the creaking suspension...I also own an Alfa Romeo and it creaks worse than my old bones until everything is warmed up. Can't find any play in the joints and bushes but the rubber parts creak unless I spray Silicon spray on them...which lasts for a while and works a treat.

    Good to have you onboard !

    Cheers   Trevor.

     

     

  5. There is a saying I use when recommending someone to buy a battery which is 'you get what you pay for'.

    Now, I know you may well have paid loads of money for a battery from the dealer but it is not necessarily a quality battery, just expensive!

    You can usually tell if it's a quality battery by the weight of it...try lifting a cheap battery and compare it to one of the same size but of better quality/cost...the heavier one usually has more lead content in it....cheap ones don't.

    Always buy the best you can for the money, and warranty isn't necessarily an indicator of quality.

    Cheers   Trevor

  6. Hi...and welcome to the Club

    I would say it sounds like a great buy.

    I would probably replace the serpentine belt as soon as possible as at least it's out of your mind then and not likely to fail in service.

    The coolant reservoir I assume is the overflow one in the engine bay? Sounds ominous as you say it is empty, unless it has a split in it.

    Go for it...I'm sure you won't regret it

    Cheers   Trevor

     

    • Like 1
  7. Hi Antoine...welcome to the Club

    Here is a link which describes the code P0157 which I believe is post catalytic converter.

    https://www.obd-codes.com/p0157

    I would look for any sign of exhaust leak which could cause the sensor to read excess air and run lean.

    Alternatively, it could actually be the code P0600 which is causing the error P0157...worth checking further before replacing a Lambda sensor.

    Let us know how you get on with it

    Cheers   Trevor

  8. Hi Daymon....welcome to the Club

    I don't have a wiring diagram for these systems but if they all share the same circuit (or part of), then I would trace back to the fusebox(s) and go from there as it would have a common live or earth which could be at fault.

    Let us know what you find

    Cheers  Trevor

  9. Hi Mark....welcome to the Club

    I would recommend taking the car for a short drive first for the sensors to adjust to the new pressures...works a treat on my BMW motorbike.

    Some newer vehicles, you have to drive it to reset the system as it takes a reading from each individual wheel rotation to calculate the pressures.

    Certainly worth a try and then if not try the reset method you mention afterwards.

    Cheers   Trevor

  10. HI David

    I would definitely recommend the correct service for the age of the vehicle as it keeps the residual value of the vehicle maintained for future sale and ensures reliability.

    Additionally, there may be software downloads to the vehicle which need carrying out by the dealership.

    Hope that reassures you in spending hard earned money.

    Cheers   Trevor

  11. Hi Jason....welcome to the Club

    I would check to see if the ABS unit looks as though it could have had connectors removed from it during the work being carried out, maybe something not plugged back in?

    Also, a relay could have gone faulty...check also brake lights work as this can affect the ABS system as its looking for a brake signal (think there maybe two switches on the pedal that needs checking).

    These are simple checks but sometimes its the obvious things that get overlooked.

    Let us know how you get on with it

    Cheers   Trevor

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