BillH2

When I bought my car I purchased three keys from a local locksmith. He indicated that they would be no problem to make and program. Making the keys went fine. Programming them was another matter. After getting them to talk to the car by a sequence of various door lock cycles and ignition switch cycles, the would lock and unlock the doors and trunk. They would not, however allow the car to start. He ran into a brick wall here. I was faced with the prospect of making a 140 mile drive to the nearest Lexus dealership and paying the going rate, which was $65.00 for program the keys. I mentioned my situation to friend who was the service manage at the local Toyota store. I had been previously told that they couldn't do anything with my Lexus except change oil, which was why I was in there. He said that was incorrect, they could perform all work except warranty. They programmed the key for $40.00. They told me that there would be no way anyone with a 2001 or later Lexus could program their own keys unless the feature had been unlocked either at the factory or by a Lexus dealership using the Lexus "Z Best" device.

The heater core is supposed to contain only engine coolant NEVER oil. Usually when a head gasket fails you get coolant in the oil, turning it to sludge. I guess that it would be possible to have a blown head gasket around the pressure side of the oiling system and have it pump oil into the cooling system, but that has to be a rare occurrence. I would get a second opinion

I have a 01 GS-430 with Mark Levinson audio an no NAV. The ML Amp is going out and I am investigating alternatives. So far I have come up with: 1) Replace the ML AMP with a reconditioned unit. Cost: $700.00 2) Replace the head unit with a current tech unit, bypass the ML AMP(S). I have been told this will sound really bad as there will be no amps. Cost $450.003) Replace the whole system with a new head unit, all new speakers and a 5 channel amp. Cost: $2815.00 installed. The stereo shop informs me the that this system would be equal or better in sound to the Mark Levinson system. While I would like to get all the current bells and whistles of a new head unit, I think I am going with option 1.

I would clean the MAF sensor. If it's dirty, it will lean out the engine and make it hesitate.

Sounds like how the problem with my ML system started. First thing I noticed was the adjustments for audio levels would default back to "0" This went on for a while, every so often I would notice the system sounding flat. Check the settings, everything to "0" Next thing I noticed I would start the car, and no audio. As I reached for the volume knob, the audio would come on full blast. This happened approximately six times. Couple of weeks ago, driving down the freeway minding my own gd bindess, I get the most awful loud cracking and popping sounds from the center speaker. I'm wondering if it's in the radio station. This happened a couple of more times only now followed by the sound system completely shutting down. The system will work if the temperature outside is above 50. Colder than that and you drive in silence. Researching the issue, I find that Lexus has a bulletin about failures with the 2001 and 2002 GS Mark Levinson amp. I have to decide whether to fix it or to scrap the whole system and install new speakers, HU amps and wiring. Fixing the existing ML system: New M/L Amp, $1700.00 (Carson Lexus) OR $695.00 for a reconditioned amp (Sewell, Carson doesn't sell recon units). From first noticing a problem to total system failure took place in the space of about a year on my car. YRMV Good Luck

I installed a set of Powermaster plugs. IMO, they delivered nothing in the way of power. As a side bonus, they reduced my mileage 1.5 MPG. Stay with the stock plugs!

Can anyone list the proper procedure for dis-assembling the guage cluster?

The car was a 1967 410 H.P. 427 Fairlane. It had 3.23 gears, 26" tall tires and I saw 6800 RPM in fourth gear. (161.8 MPH, not counting slippage) It was rock solid at that speed and got there in a real hurry. That was back in 1969 when I was young, dumb and immortal. (Don't remember when I became "no longer immortal" maybe it was when a couple of friends died in their cars. Now I am old and dumb but no longer immortal) A few years ago, I got a chance to drive a friends rear engine gas dragster. Car was going 9.20's with their mule motor. They were making license passes that night and offered to let me make a lap or two. They told me most everyone who drives one of these the first time goes 14 seconds because the car scares them so badly. I said if it goes straight, I'll hammer it. I went 9.80/151MPH first pass 9.50 155 second pass. (never got used to the shifter) Crossing the finish line, it occured to me that I had driven that fast before. Took a minute to remember it was in the Fairlane. I have gone 120 in my GS-430 but I don't do that often. Figure I have used up two lifetimes worth of luck.

I have been told that once you've had black, you'll never go back. What's that? Really? We are talking about cars? Oh,..... Well..... Nothing looks better than a clean, properly waxed black car. Also nothing is harder to keep looking good than black. My Cinnabar GS-430 is difficult enough to keep clean, and I wash it a minimum of once per week. If you plan on washing your car twice per month, you better get something "other than black." I do love my black interior, though. There is one local guy who drives a black Corvette that looks good all the time. He set up his garage with drains so he can wash it inside. He told me he washes his car pretty much every time he drives it. Either before taking it out, or just after he parks it for the night.

Open the glove compartment. In the very back, behind the door is panel that pops off. The filter unit is behind that panel. I got mine from Sewell for about $30.00 Good Luck Bill

3.23 gears, 27" tall tire. 6400 RPM = 159.2 MPH The car was a 1967 410 H.P. 427 Fairlane. Car was extremely smooth and stable at speed. This was back when I was young and immortal. Years later, I was making a pass in a friends Gas Dragster. The car was going 9.0's at 160 MPH. The first time I crossed the finish line, I thought "I have driven this fast before" I had to think about it for a minute to remember the Fairlane.

Send me your grill. I'll do it for $60. :D

Interesting. What's the best way to strip it off? Is it the same on a 2001 430? My first car was a 76 Camaro, and I remember stripping off the dull gray coating on the headlight bezels by accident and finding a shiny metal chrome finish underneath. Looked awesome, I wondered why they covered it up with gray. Let me know if this is so on the 01 model grills. Thx. ← The grill is plastic, but the chrome plating under it is very good quality. Also, the paint is designed to stick and not real easy to remove. I removed the paint on the face of the grill teeth, leaving the sides black. Worked great, took a couple of hours. This is how I did it Materials needed: One can of thick jel paint remover. The thicker the better Rubber gloves (You don't want that stuff on your hands) Fine grade steel wool Q-tips. First, remove the grill Five bolts (I think, 10MM) and the hood latch. Then open the paint remover, Load a Q-tip with paint remover and wipe it across the top of the grill teeth. Do 1/4 of the grill at a time. Let it sit for about fifteen minutes. The paint should be bubbled up by now, put on the gloves, take some steel wool and, using water scrub off the paint. Let the grill dry compeltely and repeat the process. Hope this helps. Do it at your own risk. ← Remove the center emblem also. Phillps head screwdriver, This process worked on a 2001 GS-430. I do not know if the earlier cars had chrome under the black paint.

Interesting. What's the best way to strip it off? Is it the same on a 2001 430? My first car was a 76 Camaro, and I remember stripping off the dull gray coating on the headlight bezels by accident and finding a shiny metal chrome finish underneath. Looked awesome, I wondered why they covered it up with gray. Let me know if this is so on the 01 model grills. Thx. ← The grill is plastic, but the chrome plating under it is very good quality. Also, the paint is designed to stick and not real easy to remove. I removed the paint on the face of the grill teeth, leaving the sides black. Worked great, took a couple of hours. This is how I did it Materials needed: One can of thick jel paint remover. The thicker the better Rubber gloves (You don't want that stuff on your hands) Fine grade steel wool Q-tips. First, remove the grill Five bolts (I think, 10MM) and the hood latch. Then open the paint remover, Load a Q-tip with paint remover and wipe it across the top of the grill teeth. Do 1/4 of the grill at a time. Let it sit for about fifteen minutes. The paint should be bubbled up by now, put on the gloves, take some steel wool and, using water scrub off the paint. Let the grill dry compeltely and repeat the process. Hope this helps. Do it at your own risk.

Interesting. I am in Washington State, my 2001 is Cinnabar / Black from Canada. I wonder how many USA cars were sold with that color combination.