tmastres

this post sounds very similar to your problem http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...hl=coil+replace Assuming it is a bad coil, You may need to have the codes read again and generally its the first code that tells you which coil is bad. Once you've driven the car on only 5 cylinders (because one isn't firing due to the bad coil) you'll get a bunch of other codes that will go away once the mis-fire is fixed. If you're lucky the misfire will be in the 2,4 or 6 cylinders which are right up front and the coils there can be changed in less time than it takes to change a tire.If its the 1, 3 or 5 you'd better budget a few hours. The replacement coils cost anywhere from $75-$110 depending on where you get them. Be sure you get the #90080-19016 as these are re-designed coils that fixed the problem which caused the original ones to fail. Lastly and this will be painful, but assuming its the coils, I would bite the bullet get all 6 coils changed to the new versions. These coil failures are totally random and in my experience absolutely unpredictable. I had three coils fail in a 15 month period before I finally went "DOH!" and changed the remaining 3. I was super lucky that the three times they failed I was close to home and could either limp the car home or simply swap out the coil in the parking lot (after 2 failures I carried a spare coil). Point is if one fails more will follow and you don't know where you'll be when it happens.

Not to be a wise-guy but that IS a surprise. If you'd said it was you're 99 I'd have not been surprised but an 04 330 is quite a surprise as we've not seen many of those fail.

Glad you solved it man, that was a tough one!

In all fairness, you know coming in that it will probably need a new tranny so thats really a moot point and its factored into the cost. A new trans should cost under $5000, as JGR mentioned, more like $3-4k. Have the engine checked for sludge and if its clean you should have a fairly nice vehicle for at or around $10,000.

Everything he said. And if its not the loose 02 sensor, then search for IACV on this forum. The Idle Air Control Valve is probably one of the most common problems affecting these vehicles and , luckily one of the cheapest and easiest to repair. Not only that but the fix is extremely well documented with pics and everything. With the mileage and age of your RX this would be a great place to start.

I love my 00 RX, I've had it for a long time now and overall there has been very few problems (knock wood). I certainly appreciate the fact that others have had problems but speaking for my own experience its been great. My RX is my daily driver so performance (as in speed and handling) are irrelevant to me in that role. My wife and I each have our own "fun" cars that we use to get our performance fixes. I love the way the RX rides and how quiet it is in the cabin, and although there are a few niggling component issues I've found the overall build quality to be quite high. I can see where being over 6' tall would not work in the RX, I'm 6'0" and when I get he seat just right I'm glad I 'm not trying to stuff any more leg or head into the space remaining (which ain't much) Sludge issue notwithstanding the engine seems to be pretty solid as well, although I swear on whatever is holy I'll never own a transverse mounted V-6 again. Ridiculously difficult to work on the back three cyl. Of course the tranny is a well know issue but i've not yet had the problem (knocking on wood again!) so I personally can't complain but I certainly won't discount the problems of others. If I were in the market for a used 300 I'd most likely go with an 01-03. I've owned or been responsible for about 20 vehicles in my life spanning American, German, French and Japanese and the RX is the second best problem/maintenance wise and probably the best in overall build quality.

2000 RX AWD, 113,000 miles. Did the 90k service(+WP and trans flush), did the IACV cleaning, have replaced the antenna-mast and all 6 original coils. Do a trans fluid flush every 30-40k (fluid still looks clear and red since the last one at 90k).

The teeth face inward toward the motor itself. It coils in a bit like a nautilus shell. Its a fairly simple worm gear arrangement inside. As for the housig I'm not sure exactly what you mean on this one but If Im guessing correctly you mean the motor assembley case and it simple comes apart in two halves. Inside is the motor, the worm gear and the coil/take-up spool. I actually just bit the bullet and paid Lexus $70. The part number -- Rod & Pipe Sheild w/cable # 863370W030. I had the whole back of the car apart and didnt want to wait for mail-order etc. I looked at a t Toyota dealer first but as I mentioned the ones they showed me were about $60 and Toyota/Lexus don't cross reference their part numbers so the Toyota tech couldnt tell me which of the 4 antenna masts would/wouldnt fit. There were two that looked very similar to my broken one but they had different cable lengths. Although I had brought the mast with me to the Toyota dealer I had forgotten to bring the broken off piece so I couldnt tell if the cable lengths on the Toyota masts were exactly right. On top of that the Toyota guy told me that if I installed one of those masts in my Lexus I'd void the product warranty of the mast . Anyhow, plese feel free to contact me as much as you like and I'll give you as much info as I can. You guys are so smart and working hard. It is great. Maybe I should try to replace my antenna mast, too. One question: Which way the motor rotates, clock-wise or counter-clock-wise, if I look at the motor from the lefthand-side of the car to the righthand-side? I am trying to figure out how I should insert the plastic cable. Or, put it this way, if I stand behind the car, should the teeth on the cable face the front of the car or th back of the car? My antenna is bent and broken into half. The plastic cable jumped out from the top of the antenna. I think the motor and pulley must be still good. Otherwise, it won't push the cable out. I tried to push the cable back in by turning the radio on and off. To my surprise, I heard the motor running, but the assembly would not take the cable in. I did not feel that the cable was touching the pulley. What could be wrong? If you're antenna mast is broken , you'll get a new cable when you get a new mast since they're attached. I honestly don't remember if the teeth face when you install it but I'm fairly sure that if you guess wrong it simply wont retract the cable and not damage it . So then you switch it.

But what about the stigma your children will have to endure when they're seen arriving in a 20 year old Volvo?? :D Totally kidding there, my wife has a Passat wagon and it is by far more utilitarian than our RX (a fact she never misses an opportunity to point out), not to mention the Passat gets about 33 on the hwy while the RX struggles to get 23 these days.

Yo, Dude??????

Yes, I remember a discussion where FP plus came up previously and I meant to research it. Good Stuff?

Oh No, Not Again!!!! :cries:

In comparison with my 00 I'd say it isnt. I run 87 all the time and notice no pinging or other problems. I feel for those filling up with 91/93 these days.

I've checked my mileage against the computer a couple of times and found it to be generally accurate. If you're talking 22 on the highway or mostly highway I'd say thats not too far off what I get on the hwy. Generally though I drive mostly in town and get about 18. I ran 89 in mine for a long time then switched to 87 a few years back.I've noticed no difference. Nor did I notice any difference when I ran a couple of tanks of 91.

Well Yes and No. You're certainly correct that it is UOA, thats what I get for posting so early in the morning, but it really isn't "all over the internet" Thats the point I was trying to get across. Far earlier in this thread someone asked a simple question , what does UOA stand for and was basically berated for it. I tried to explain but got the U part wrong. If you happen to know it means oil analysis you can find it in a page or two, but not everyone here is a gear-head and I just thought it would have been easier all around to answer the persons question. or you can check out United Ostomy Association University of Arizona Utah Optometric Association Universal Online Archive

Well let me say thanks for the info, I for one do appreciate knowledgeable input. Apologies for being rude myself but I could see the frustration in some of the other posts, and while I know it isn't anyones job to educate people, I think thats why were all here (ok most of us) really. I know its easy to search for things and you've certainly been a major protagonist in many fluid discussions, so I understand that repetitive frustration as well, but most people still believe (like I did) that color and smell are good tests, now I know different. I wouldn't run my car on burnt smelling black fluid but hey it very well may be OK. Leaning in progress. Truth is though that the acronym UAO means a whole heck of a lot of things, if you do as you say and search Yahoo the first meaningful definitions for UAO are Urban Atmospheric Observatory Uppsala Astronomical Observatory UNIQUE ADMINISTRATIVE ORGANIZATION United As One. Nowhere on the first two pages does one find anything about used Oil Analysis (or Uniforom Oil Analysis for that matter) My point is not to be a wise-!Removed! but to say that what seems like such simple, obvious knowledge to you may not be such for someone else. Also because you stress the use of UAO's so stridently, I'd think you'd want more people to know about them and use them. Anyhow thanks for the clarification and I guess we'll all move on.

UAO is not what you stated and I do not know what "pretty fair detectors" means. Just because a color is black and smells something does not mean anything. You are guessing since you are not a spectro analysis machine... Spend the $20 and SEE (no nose test here folks) what you are dealing with in you AT. Gosh man, sorry, I got the really important word "used" wrong because it would make perfect sense to do an analysis on "new"oil. And Mike, thanks so much for just spewing snide replies instead actually offering to educate the folks on this forum. You know I've read your replies on numerous posts and I actually respect your opinion but why do you feel the need to act like such and a$$hole!

UOA? What is that? Again, care to define "more good stuff"? This is a pretty ambiguous statement. In case you were serious I believe UAO is Uniform Oil Analysis,or something like that. You can send a sample of your oil into a lab and they tell you all the stuff thats dissolved and suspended in it. Also, while I understand the premise, I do disagree about color and smell, those a pretty fair detectors to many transmission maladies. Clear red fluid certainly doesn't guarantee "no problems" but it if you've got burnt smelling dark brown fluid you don't need a UAO to tell you that you've got an issue.

Ok then, the dealer didn't service the tranny and I'm guessing the "little old lady" didn't either so a simple drain and fill isn't going to do much for a tranny that hasn't been serviced in 80 thousand miles. A d and f doesn't get all the fluid out only a portion, maybe a third. you'll need to do a series of d and f's to get a decent amount of new fluid in there. I've had fine luck (knock wood) flushing my 00 but if you're going to stick to the d and f, you'd better stock up on Toyota type IV.

Generally yes, on the RX300 it usually says 0304 (cyl4) 0303 (cyl3) etc... I'm guessing in an RX 330 you may have evolved past bad coils though. At least I haven't heard of coil problems in the 330/350's

Hey, a "killerattorney" would just sue them, No? :D Ok seriously, I only have the west coast # but I'm sure it will work , give it a shot (1-800-255-3987), Lexus corporate, Torrance, Ca.

I've got about 110,000k miles on my 00 RX and I've had 3 flushes done on it. I really do respect those that do the drain and fill method, and if it works for them then thats great. What I've been able to glean from the thousands of posts on the trans issue is that the 01-03's are harder on the fluid, yet the 99, 00's are the most likely to fail. Having an 00 I really don't notice very much degradation of the fluid, but I have it flushed around every 30k anyhow. I suspect that those that do the D and F do so because 1) they can do it themselves and 2) its cheaper. For me its really because 1) its been working for me and 2) I already do all the OC's and other routine maint. on 4 vehicles so I'm not at all interested in adding yet another routine service to my long list of weekend chores. I'll pay the money for a flush. Call me lazy but I'd rather spend that tie at the ballpark.

Iv'e got a 2000 Rx and I'm 99% certain its exactly the same engine so with that I'll tell you that the coil part # that I just used was 90080-19016. If you've got those coils then they're the right ones. They look identical to the previous versions, just the number is different. I've replaced all 6 of mine in the last 2 or so years, just doing the final 3 all at once about a month ago. The last three I needed to do were 1 & 3 in the back and 2 in the front. It is possible to replace all of these coils without removing the TB or any other components. Not easy mind you , but possible.

Are you talking freeway mileage or city/mixed. If you're getting 22 in town then you're either a magician or your RX is being towed. If you get that on the freeway I'd say thats just a teensy bit low but really not much, especially if you drive above 70 most of the time. I can get 23-24 if I keep it at 65 on the freeway but the minute I keep it at 70 I drop down to the 22 range. My RX is similar in age and miles to yours 00/w 110,000k miles. and I've run mobil 1 5-30w since 40k.

Errrr Nevermind! Hey guys, I have to offer up a sincere apology and a big "doh!". You're talking about 330's and I was referring to the 300. I totally forgot that Rx in NC is now a 330 owner! I'm so used to commiserating about the 300 issues with him. Anyhow, I promise to pay more attention in the future.