tmastres

Thats great info, I'd love to know if they ever did put it into production.

Yet, there was that burning urge, no, need to get in one more public shot eh? (rhetorical, does not require a response) Topical content: For a multitude of reasons avoid 99-00 RX's. 01's may be sketchy as well so I'd advise going for an 02-later model.

IMHO this is where it ends. Whether its around the block or across the country, driving a vehicle without oil in the case means the engine is compromised. Those responsible for the error are liable for making you "whole" again which means a new engine on their dime. It's an intolerable mistake, no excuses.

You've probably seen these posts already but in case you hadn't. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...=P0304&st=0 This one is long but the answer comes in post #32 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=346857 Please let us know if you get this solved. Too many people don't follow up and we never know how they solved the problems.

This may seem like a silly question but when you say you replaced 3 coils , did you replace the #3 and #4 coils? I assume you know the cylinder arrangement/order 135 246 | v front of vehicle The #3 coil is the most difficult one to reach and since you said you replaced 3 coils when there were only codes for two cylinder specific misfires, P0303/P0304 (the P0300 indicates multiple random misfires) I was just wondering if simply replaced the 3 easy ones in the front and still have a bad one in the back?

Care to Share?? Why the secrecy?

Sounds like you have an ignition coil gone bad. Check out this recent thread http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=54128 and/or search the forum for "coil" and you'll find all the info you might possibly want. #6 is at the front right and easy to replace. Be aware though, once one goes, more are likely to follow. 135 246

IMHO Yes, and if you have large hands YES. You'll need (want) socket extensions and an articulated u-joint to make it work.

I didn't have to remove the Throttle Body to change the coils, it wasn't easy but I pushed prodded and jammed that #5 coil in there. If you can fit your hand in the hole between the TB and the intake you can get at the 5 and 6 coils. It certainly isn't easy (or comfortable) but its possible. There were times when I was sure I wasn't going to get it in there but I eventually did. I wouldn't blame anyone for wanting to let someone else get dirty for this job but the coil costs are high enough and if you can save a few hundred bucks, hey, why not. There are some things on these vehicles that I just wouldn't try, its just a frustrating and difficult vehicle to work on, for me at least. I would concur with Lenore on the dielectric grease, its simple and it certainly can't hurt. Lastly, if you're not going to replace all the coils I'd at least get an extra one and keep it in the car. As you've seen the front ones are fairly easy to replace and the failures are so random you never know when its going to go, or where you'll be when it does.

I certainly don't claim to be a mechanic, just an average DIY guy but it seems very possible that its another bad coil. Do the symptoms seem the same as before when the first coil went bad? You mentioned that the car ran fine after you changed out the original offending coil so I think we can call that fixed and look at this as a separate and new problem. When I experienced coil failure, I don't remember any intermittency (intermittentness?) in the symptoms, it seemed to be running consistently poorly. I might suggest doing the same switcheroo you did originally with the 4&6 coils to see if it cylinder misfire code changes cylinders with the coil. Access to the # 1 cylinder isn't easy but at least you don't have to maneuver any tools in that tiny space (like when you're changing the plugs). I have XL sized hands and I was still able to change all the back coils myself by just taking my time and using a LOT of patience (for which I'm not known :D ). FYI- I just checked my notes and my second coil went bad 3 months to the day that my first one went bad and then I had a whole year before the third one went. The timing of the failures seems random enough to me and personally, I don't see why the second one couldn't or wouldn't fail only a few days after the first one. I realize its a very frustrating experience, especially when its the wife or kids that end up stuck somewhere, thats why I went ahead and changed all of my remaining original coils, I simply had no way of knowing when or where they were going to go out next. If this does turn out to be another bad coil, I'd say bite the bullet, change em all and make an afternoon out of it under the hood. That's just me and it took 3 failures to get me there so hey.

Thats about right. I paid $91 I think from Lexus of Oxnard when I did mine. My local Toyota dealer quoted me over $100 and wouldn't warrant the part if I put in a Lexus!! and not a Toyota, (I kid you not). In any case, I believe they can be had in the $80's if you buy from Sewll Lexus or Park Place in Texas, but then there's shipping and the time till delivery. If you order several and you have a high sales tax rate (as we do here in CA) it can still be cheaper to buy from an out of state dealer, even with the shipping.

As long as you didn't change the plug as well then I'd say that's the case.

nevermind

Hey, is there an echo in here? :D

You are in Luck, relatively speaking. If I remember correctly the cylinder orientation is 135 246 With the 246 being towards the front of the vehicle. I shouldn't take more than 10-15 min. If it were one of the rear ones??????? When you have the cover off, take a look where the rear ones are , that's something I don't ever want to do again.

To me , this sounds like a failed coil(s) problem. Once a coil goes bad and you drive the vehicle more than a block the vehicle will begin to throw a cascade of other codes because its running poorly and causing other sensors to indicate trouble. If it is a coil, the car will not repair itself so I'm guessing it is still running poorly? The thing I did was to clear the codes with a code reader and then start the car again, the CEL should come on shortly , after it does, turn the car off and read the codes.The first code should indicate the cylinder number failed coil. Replace that coil and see if its running properly. You may be able to clear the current codes by disconnecting the battery but I'm not sure about that. If your problem is a bad coil, I'd recommend replacing them all. It's a pain and its expensive ($5-600), but I had 3 coils go bad in an 18 month period . All at different times and all completely randomly. After the third one I just replaced all the rest. As I understand it the original coil designs were changed at some point to make them more reliable. (in jest)To the skeptics on the board, no I don't have any documentation to prove this, in fact I may just be making it up :D ) However I do have the old coil part numbers old: 90019-02234 (probably what you have in the RX now) and the new part numbers: new 90080-19016 (the ones I put in my RX)

You guys make some valid points, but just clarify I don't think the VSC caused any trans problems I was just using it as an example of major things that changed early on. Also tranny problems that showed up at dealerships early on would have been warranty repairs so there wouldn't be complaints to any public agencies. You guys believe one way I believe the other, anyone else that reads this will have plenty of info to form their own opinions on, I'm movin on from this thread. Thanks for the info though. More fodder for debate on this issue can be found here http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx300-foru...x300-awd-2.html

I surmise they changed them because they noticed an unusual amount of tranny problems coming into the dealerships. They also changed the AWD system in 01 to the VSC system just to show that they were perfectly willing and to change major aspects of the vehicle. But hey, as I said before I don't have any vested interest in changing your minds, believe what you will, others can make up their own minds.

Mikey, You're absolutely right! I hadn't noticed that some folks listed their vehicle type as "RX" as opposed to "RX 300", and that the two were considered separate categories. Of course, as expected, adding this extra category for each year adds to the totals of each year. Here are the revised numbers of the relative years including both RX and RX 300 listings. NHTSA complaint numbers for transmissions in the relevant years of RX's. 1999: 82 complaints 2000: 74 complaints 2001: 44 complaints 2002: 04 complaint 2003: 0 complaints

Hey Mikey? Whats up with this? There was a lot of discussion regarding the changes back then on both forums, if you (and others) don't believe its true that's fine, I don't get anything out of trying to convince you. Folks can look it up for themselves if they're inclined. As for the NHTSA numbers, I checked them before I posted (although it was actually 36) See attached. Rhetoric aside, don't you think its at all odd that the numbers of complaints effectively cease in 02-03?

So you're telling me that a 8 year old vehicle probably isn't old enough or doesn't have enough miles on it for a transmission issue to show up but a 9 year old one does??? In case you didnt read the previous post NHTSA complaint numbers for transmissions in the relevant years of RX's. 1999: 60 complaints 2000: 54 complaints 2001: 35 complaints 2002: 01 complaint 2003: 0 complaints PM me and I'll tell you where to send the check :D

Well you should have been paying more attention to the transmission problems posts back in 05 and 06. WWest had a number of posts detailing the changes. OK, so maybe that doesn't jibe with your definition of "well documented" but the trans problem threads are among the most viewed and the most posted to threads on this and the CL forums. Not trying to be a wise-guy but here are some snippets I found in less than 10 min. "The Engine/transaxle ECU control firmware in the 2001 models, use an ASL, Aggressive Shift Logic, technique wherein the transaxle is always kept in the highest gear ratio possible." wwest also "as of about the year 2000 Toyota began adopting these techniques, for the 2001 Model year" I don't have any vested interest in this being true, its just what I remember from dozens of posts and thousands of replies regarding transmission problems and from being on this forum for 5 + years. I have a theory that some (maybe many) of the 01's got the 00 version trannys until stocks were used up then the modified versions went into the rest of the 01-03's. Thats purely my theory , and I don't have much to back it up. There is this however NHTSA complaint numbers for transmissions in the relevant years of RX's. 1999: 60 complaints 2000: 54 complaints 2001: 35 complaints 2002: 01 complaint 2003: 0 complaints Maybe the change was made in 02 and not 01 as reported? Either way an 03 model is plenty old enough to have the miles on the clock that would reveal transmission woes, the majority of failures seem to happen in the 60-120k mile window.

Just for my own curiosity, how many failures from 01-02's?? Just looking for statistical info, as I remember clearly that there were changes made to the trans in 01. Thx.

Yes you can definitely switch (and should). Mobil 1 is a fine oil and will serve you well, much better than dino. If you can find the German Castrol, its a great oil as well. For accuracy sake the 0-30 Mobil is also a PAO (polyalfaolefine) group IV just like the Castrol however the 5-30 has been changed to group III, which means it does have some mineral oil as a base but doesnt put it in the same class as common Dino oil. If you're really interested in the oil issue get onto the BITOG (bob is the oil guy) site , the issue is beaten to death there. Mobil 1 , Amsoil, Castrol Syntec, Pennzoil Platinum. All are great synthetic oils. Change em every 4-5k miles and you'll be fine.

I don't doubt that these maladies have struck RX owners but I really don't see them in statistically significant numbers to call them true issues inherent in the the RX specifically , Just MHO.