dal

cupping of the tires can be a cause of these symptoms as well. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=30371&hl=

Thanks and cheers for this guidance. That noise had been bugging me for a long time - nearly constant of late no matter what the temp or settings. Finally found some time to do yesterday and instructions were right on target. Not difficult at all. Noise gone for now. Very pleased. Thanks to those who take the time to share detail information on how-to - very useful. :) :) :)

Do you mean the side marker lights? If so, this site provides an excellent how-to: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/index.html Since water gets in, I found that my sockets were bad - corroded and part of the bulb would not come out. I ordered clear lenses with new sockets for about $35. Driver side is not to hard to change, passenger side has less room to work in and was a bit more tedious. Took me about an hour to do them both - working slow.

Rotate the back of the bulb housing a partial turn and pull out. Pop out the old bulb, (has a clip that holds it in - look at it and the new one to figure it out) - put the new bulb in (do not touch the new bulb with your fingers or any other greasy object or it will shorten life). I use a napkin. Reinsert into the housing and rotate it back so that it is snug. Only problem I had was that the cords were a bit short so was tight manuveuring - but not difficult. Took longer to clean dirt off hands than to replace the bulb.

My 99 2WD is going strong at 117, - and I also seem to sense the tranny issues are more of a 4WD concern - but I listen to mine very closely - no concerns at this point. Change the oil frequently and you'll avoid any sludge issues. My sense (non scientific) is that the engine runs very hot and the oil breaks down faster. I shoot for 3k change, sometimes slip to 4k but try hard not to let go to 5k. If price is important to you, consider investigating a Toyota dealer to do the 90k service - it's the big one.

If all the mechanical items check out OK visually (rotors, etc.) also consider tire cupping to cause these symptoms - especially the shimmy during braking at highway speeds. I've had two vehicles with this issue - shimmy when braking at high speed - and turned out to be cupped tires. Given you have high mileage tires and are replacing anyway, I would do the tires first, see how it impacts and then check the mechanical stuff.

This site helped me on this and many other fixits: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/index.html

Could be an indication that continuity is not fully there - rear bulb could be still lighting, but close to failing. Could also be a dirty socket(s) which is causing continuity to fluctuate and creating dash indicator to come on. Was an issue I encountered. Front side marker bulbs failing did not cause the dash indicator to light for me. Common problem for these to fail because design allows water to pool in the marker and this rots the socket and connections. See other threads for how to replace the sockets. I used this as an opportunity to put clear markers in front with the new sockets. Just an idea.

One data point for you - I'm not an expert. On my 99 Rx300 2WD I had been experiencing some jolting - more on starting than stopping and when shifting from p to r, n to d, r to d, etc. starting around 90k Also had check engine light on and off for a while. Codes suggested Oxy sensor and Throttle Position Sensor. After having replaced, have not experienced the jolting. Other posts in this form discuss changing the Throttle Position Sensor - not overly complex - I did not do it. Not an expensive part. Just turned 109k. FYI.

I don't know for certain if it is normal. As a data point, my 99 FWD will stay in lower gear on cold days for about 5 miles or so. I've always figured it was a cold issue and will shift when temp warms after running for a bit. I've learned to just take it easy on a cold morning. I've got 109k and knock on fake interior wood panel, no tranny issues yet. FYI.

I had similar idle fluctuations in my 99RX with 107k miles. In P or N, the idle was varying levels, but not to a level of lurching. My symptoms were more of moving from P to R or N to R/D when it would lurch on most occasions. Check engine light was on and off for about a thousand miles. Last week, throttle position sensor was replaced (along with 2 oxygen sensors) and all symptoms have gone away. Smooth shifting and much smoother idle. I think TPS was about $100 and less than an hour to install at an independent shop. A lot less than the O2 sensors.

Here is a great site that helped me a lot on the cabin air filter (AC) and other fix it items. http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rx300how2/index.html When I finally got around to checking the cabin filter based on this knowledge, I discovered there was no filter in the holder. 100k miles of faithful Lexus dealer service and I find out there is no cabin air filter. Other helpful hints in this forum by searching on cabin filter. Cheers

Many thanks for the insight - I appreciate it.

Very timely info for a symptom I've been experiencing. For those knowledgeable about the repair suggested for the flex union joint, could you provide a ballpark price for parts/labor for this repair - would make me smarter in knowing I'm getting all I need (i.e. avoid wallet drain). Stopped at local Midas today - they were too busy to look at it today, but on inquiring what it might cost based on union prior to cat, desk person suggested could be in $700 range. Knowing shops like this like to go worst scenario - and I want to go lowest cost for another 12 months or so of ownership, I'd value input from you all. My 99 FWD has 110k on it and no exhaust work done on it to this point. Have been getting a periodic check engine light - on and off three times in past 2k miles. Thanks in advance.

I can't offer a comparison, but I can report that my 2WD does OK in the snow - albeit DC snow, so not as healthy or frequent as northern parts. But on the few 4-8 inch and an occasional 12+ snow, I was out and about before much plowing had been done (i.e. in the first 3-5 days around here!). Didn't try to burst through any 10 foot drifts or scale any glare ice inclines. I think knowing how to drive in snow (WI training) plays a big part in vehicle performance in snow. I have Michelin Cross Terrains the last 65k of 105k total miles (on second set) - they give enough bite in packing snow. That said, I'm certain the AWD provides mechanical advantage. Cheers.

If rotors check out OK, the vibration when braking at higher speeds can also be caused by cupped tires - uneven wear. I had this happen on a different vehicle - took some time to diagnose. Rotor issue is highest probability. Consider examining tires if rotors check out OK.

If rotors check out OK, the vibration when braking at higher speeds can also be caused by cupped tires - uneven wear. I had this happen on a different vehicle - took some time to diagnose. As mentioned earlier, rotor is highest probability. Consider examining tires if rotors check out OK.

I watch this closely because of my 2005 Sienna which shares many enging/trans components of the RX. If you scan the Sienna boards (www.siennaclub.org) and this forum, you'll find that it is a prevalent issue - keeping in mind, somewhat a subjective call, based on how one drives. Gentler drivers may not experience. I've also noticed some hint that this issue can develop over time based on the electronics learning. I notice it more often now than when new 6 months ago - but have not experienced the near stall that some report while accelerating during a turn. My observations from the boards suggests that more people claim it does exist than doesn't.

One factor to consider in your decision: spare tires do provide a level of impact protection in a rear-end collision.

My 99 RX300 does not have a moonroof. It is the 2WD version. No moonroof, no CD, no roof racks or spoiler and cloth seats - otherwise same vehicle. I believe it was only the 2WD version that had these variants and there aren't many - I believe the 4WD versions had all that stuff standard - more common version.

I encounter this on occasion and it has been a build up of dirt and funk complicated by the mast bending back (probably by force of the wind). I usually eyeball the straightness and give it a few gentle bends (without crimping) - then clean it well with a rag to get the dirt out - pull it all the way out if not fully extended. I also put some synthetic spray lubricant (Triflow from a bike shop) on it to get it going again. Sometimes a few iterations of cleaning, pulling and extending to get the dirt out of the inside portions that have built up over time. Hope it helps. Good luck.

I can offer a recommendation of the Michelin Cross Terrain on a 99 RX. They have 55k on them now and getting ready to replace with the same. Significant improvement over Integrity, not bouncy, not hard ride - don't know about buttery, but very quiet and the profile seemed to have more rubber on the road (more square) for what I thought was excellent handling. Lots of other threads on this topic so search around. See reviews at tirerack.com I do note that persons who reported negative experiences seem to be ones with heavier vehicles (and US makes) - could be a factor.

Regarding tire rack, I purchased the Cross Terrains there, as well as two other sets of tires for other vehicles and can only report outstanding service. Ordered online Tuesday noon and they arrived at my house (DC) Thursday noon- regular delivery. For east coast they come from Delaware. Can also have delivered to dealer or installer if you like - they have a list of installers you can use. Dealer installed for $15 per tire - very reasonable. A few dollars more than BJs, but can avoid the hassle you've encountered. No sales tax, add delivery and it comes out pretty close in my recent comparisons. Tire Rack defined online tire market and forced change in the retail tire business - much to the buyer's benefit. A quality outfit.

not likely - to the best of my knowledge Michelin does not distribute seconds. Your chances of getting a fake are equal anywhere, but I haven't heard of this issue with Michelins. The machines that balance and align provide significant precision which minimizes art and skill. However, if the person using the machines isn't qualified or doesn't follow what the machine says, then you could have a problem. Could be the case at any shop. I recommend that when you bring it in, a friendly question asked innocently with the shop manager 'is the guy working on this a pro on RX300s - a long timer with your shop - any special issues with mounting/alignment on the RX' will give him the impression you are intent on a getting a good result. And then, if something does go wrong, you can go back and refer to your original question. Ask friendly. Remember to get the white letters mounted on the inside - some of the CTs have white letters without a black wall option. Your ride should be smooth as silk - take it back if there is any wobble or shudder on the wheel. Sometimes things do go wrong.

You will not be disappointed with the Cross Terrains - initially and for a long time. Mine still going strong with 50k on them and never a regret on the premium price.