JIBBBY

Is that a new replacement LCD screen or used?... I think I may give it a go...I have tinkered with laptop repairs for years, so changing an LCD screen should not be too much to handle... Thanks for the heads up on Ebay..

All right, gochya. Thanks for clearing that up. In that case is there any products anybody can recommend for internal engine clean up? Errr....yeah, seafoam. Yes there are other cleaning agents that help...Adding one quart of tranny fluid in with the oil between oil changes once a year is a good idea...The one quart of ATP tranny fluid acts as a cleaning detergent when added with the 4 other quarts of oil...Helps free up and clean sticky valves and lifters.... Other products like STP concentrated fuel injector cleaner can help too...Although they say to ad one bottle to one full tank of gas...I have always added two bottles to an almost empty tank of gas maybe every other year and it seems to help a little with dirty fuel injectors... What else for cleaning? Fluid changes really is the best for keeping things clean...Synthetics fluids changes are always a good idea, filter changes (fuel, oil, and air) helps..Stay off of dirt roads as much as possible, change the oils and fluids regularly, use premium gas and you should be good to go after a good seafoaming treatment....Also spray cleaning the throttle body with STP carb cleaner once a year can't hurt especially if you are experiencing a rough or bouncing idle...

The R154 tranny swaps seems to be the most cost effective manual swap for the SC400...That swap has been done many times on the SC4's....Although if you got money to blow the V160 Supra tt 6 speed manual swap is the best choice of all...That tranny shifts like butter and has a 1000hp holding capacity along with that extra gear...It swaps in just like the R154 but costs alot more..The lexus Sc400's have identical subframes and that is why most parts can be swapped from the supra's to the SC4's and 3's...

WOW, we got a couple of seafoaming experts on this forum... The only thing about seafoaming that I hate is the nuclear mushroom cloud that is produced when seafoaming...My neighbors might just call the fire department on me this second time around... :P I read seafoaming the fuel by pouring the full bottle contents into the gas tank is useless...The reason being is the seafoam gets so diluted in with the gas the ratio is like 100-1 fuel to seafoam which is not strong enough to clean jack....Curious, Any noticeable results after pouring the bottle of seafoam in with a full tank of gas? I guess it couldn't hurt.... Now I have also read some people using seafoam in with the tranny fluid....SK, I will take your word for it and not seafoam the tranny in the future... PS...SK, my full condolances go out to you and your family in regards to your dad's passing.....It's always tough to see a loved one go... I feel for you...

Are you guys injecting the seafoam thru the brake booster line?.. I am sure many readers want to know how this proceedure is done...I need to seafoam again myself, my first seafoaming experience I went cheap on the seafoam because I was afraid I would foul my spark plugs...... Has anyone seafoamed the oil, tranny fluid, and or fuel? PS..The video clearly illustrates the polution that is created when seafoaming. Curious, how did your neighbors like the smoke screens?

I use a BELKIN am/fm transmitter....Turn the radio to 88.3 fm and set the transmitter at 88.3 and the IPOD nano sounds come out as good as stock CD's... There are other transmitters out there but I would say Belkin makes the best....Ebay $50.00 or less...K-mart too... They also sell a tape insert transmitter where you push in a tape with a cord that is hooked up directly to your ipod. However being that the tape decks are so old in some of our SC's the sound quality can be compromised with that setup..Good luck...

Just wishing everyone on the forum a blessed Christmas....Hoping Santa brings you all the good stuff.... I know Santa brought me a new Toshiba Satellite laptop, also a 2 gig Ipod nano with holding dock and Bose speaker system, and also some duds (clothes)... Thanks Santa.... :)

I am using the Precision Industries "Dragon torque converter" I don't know what a level 10 torque converter is... I do know the Dragon TC is a perfect stall rate for our SC's.... The Stand Alone ECU's require a complete rewiring job, and deletion of your stock ECU.....Very involved but the stand alones offer you more options when tuning...It is also 2 to 3 times as expensive as the piggy back ecu's.... The piggy-back ECU's wire directly up to your stock ECU, which then allows you to tune the air to fuel mix being delivered to the motor as you would like.....It is easier and effective for the stock engine's without your turbo's and superchargers...Easy to install and cost effective... That is why I went with a piggy back ECU...Stand Alones ECU's are better but not necessary in combination for the basic mods that are discussed in this thread... Stand Alones are also great for engine swaps that require independant Engine control management.. My lastest dyno was 213whp without nos and 308whp with the Nitrous....That was after tuning my ECU Apexi about a month ago.... That is horsepower measured at the wheels and not at the crank for those that don't know the difference between WHP and HP...

lexus082 - I believe all the 93-98 Supra LCA arms all fit our early model SC's... That is what I have read, and actually my Supra arms which I purchased from the dealer was 95 model Supra LCA's...Doesn't hurt to call the dealer just to make sure... cyborgmaniac - My pleasure, I started this thread to help out people just like you...When I first started I had to search forums here and there, talk to all the experts, still had to use the trial and error methods to find the best results, etc.. I just made it easier for the rookies with this thread who wouldn't mind making their Lexus's perform better....I prefer to share info rather then hold back, that's just me... devir - Seafoaming the intake chambers is what is really going to make a difference with your car...If your car is older and never been seafoamed then you are going to have major carbon buildup on your intake combustion chambers, etc...Removing all that crap should make your engine run crispier, as most have reported...Some made as much as 10whp gains on the really high mileage engines.... So find the brake booster line and seafoam that baby... Also, In regards to your VVT-i yes it does make for some tunning efforts with certain forced air induction applications, but you can still do all the external engine mods that I did, such as exhaust, intake, torque converter, etc.... So don't be shy, you have a better power base then most for starters...(Sc speaking).. With just a torque converter upgrade, and an LSD you would probably give me run for my money on a flat out race 0-60mph without the use of my nos...Do all the external mods I did and you will blow me...but not if I use the nos....

93-94 Supra LCA arms will bolt on just fine to your 94...You will really notice the difference..Enjoy......

Rich sorry to hear you are still having issues...A creaking noise is usually coming from your rear suspension (springs and shocks) when you reverse and apply the brake...May not be the same wheel noise... Could that be the noise you hear? Not a big deal if so...

Lextech does the back lighting only change, they do not replace the LCD screen or correct the bleeding...I did the bright Ultra white back ground and two bulb areas went dead in less then one year...Becareful with Lextech...I would not use them agian... Although the needles are still in perfect working order...If anything just use Lextech use for the needles..

Yeah, mine is bleeding too and just about to cover the numbers...No cheap solution to this fix...A used Ebay one will bleed sooner then a new one...I found replacement LCD screens for $400, ouch...

They all would if it were an automatic tranny... Air intakes are the same "BFI Intake" Headers and exhaust have to be purchased for the SC300...Not a problem ECU piggyback is the same Dragon Torque converter is great if your car is equiped with an automatic tranny... Hope that clarifies things abit for you....THe clublexusforum.com is all about SC300 modifying, check it out..

It's not a nakamichi changer, It is a Fujitsu made for nak. They are junk to begin with, The worst changer lexus ever put in there cars. Get yourself a 92-96 es300 6 disc changer, It is plug and play all you have to do is make a mounting bracket. It doesn't pay to repair your current changer if it is shot. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out. It's not a nakamichi changer, It is a Fujitsu made for nak. They are junk to begin with, The worst changer lexus ever put in there cars. Get yourself a 92-96 es300 6 disc changer, It is plug and play all you have to do is make a mounting bracket. It doesn't pay to repair your current changer if it is shot. Good Luck and let us know how it turns out. GET AN IPOD NANO and dump the 12 CD changer all together...The Ipod or MP4 players hold 1000 songs and can connect directly to your Nakamichi stereo...That is what I did and I do not miss the changer system at all....Belkin transmitter is what I use to connect to the stock system...Try it, todays technology is far superior from 10-15 years ago....Just a suggestion...Ebay Ipod nano's are like $100.....

Good info....I didn't know Lextreme did that exchange with the T.C.....That definetely helps and saves money..... I would definetely consider Lextreme as all their products are very good.... I know the owner personally and he is a straight up guy whom likes to deliver a good product....I am waiting for the high performance cam set to come out which is just about ready for resale from Lextreme.com....

Supra LCA's gives you a firm stiff responsive feel, not too agressive, but much better then the Lexus arms in my opinion...Get the supra LCA's you won't regret it....Remember Supra is performance, Lexus is luxury...If you are running with the stock Lexus suspension the Supra arms are your best choice for performance and even probably luxury...I love my supra LCA arms and are night and day compared to my original SC400 arms....That's the best I can explain the change...The arms are basically the same but the Supra OEM bushings are much better all around bushings....

I am on a bit of a budget right now, but I would like to really start Moding my car, I can get the money for just about anything I need it just might take a month or two of starvation =p The first thing I was going to do was replace my exhaust manifold, and Mufflers and add a cold air intake. Later I want to add a single turbo and nitros system but I want to get as much real power out of the car as possible first. Are there any other changes I should consider doing before I begin working on getting a turbo in my car? I have a 1993 SC400 right now I have done almost nothing to it aside from some lightening and straight through exhaust Also I know nothng about ECUs, I just have never used or done anything in the computer area, is that something I should really consider? You should maybe consider a "Piggy back ECU" maybe an Apexi SAFC piggy back ECU unit...This increases the air and fuel mixture that is being delivered to the motor..It is easily wired up to the stock ECU then you can fine tune the engines air/fuel mix and flow.....This Piggy-back ECU further advances the capabilities of the limited stock ECU...Gains in the 10-15hp range should be expected.....

Spray out your throttle body, clean your injectors and change your fuel filter and you should see improvements.... I use STP carb cleaner to spray clean the throttle body....Two ways to do this.... Car off - Simply remove the long rubber big intake snorkel hose that is held down by 3 or 4 bolts...Remove the snorkel tube to expose the throttle body located at the very top of motor...You will see a butterfly inside the throttle body that opens and closes with throttle action to allow air to enter into the engine...Simply spray the heck out throttle body and fly, open the fly by manually pulling the throttle cable and spray some more...Then wipe what you can with a clean lint free rag and reinstall everything tight...Allow a few minutes for the Carb cleaner flooding of the motor to evaporate and dryout and then start.. A smooth steady idle is what you will then get... Car on (most effective)- I keep the car running when I clean out my throttle body which helps with the cleaning...The motor has to be idled manually or it will stall when disconnecting the snorkel tube....I spray into the throttle body while manually pulling on the throttle cable...(note: the car will bog and choke and even stall but just start and repeat) It takes just a few minutes and is a very easy proceedure...I do my car every six months or so because of my custom intake and it always seem to get a better idle and no hesitation after the proceedure... A half arsed way to clean the injectors is to wait til your almost on empty (gas tank) then go to any auto parts store and get two bottles of concentrated fuel injector cleaner and pour both into the tank...Drive around til your just about out of gas...That should help some with injector cleaning... Fuel filter, buy a replacement filter at any autoparts store locate and change.... Do all of that and your car will run better....

Lexusalex - That's a really good dyno for a 1993...You must have done a really good intake mod and ECU tune...207rwhp is very impressive on an older SC, without headers too....Headers and deleted down cats should bring you another 10whp or so....Get a torque converter and your cars 0-60mph times will greatly increase also.... That's one strong 93 you got, good job... ;)

Chase - Those mufflers will perform the best, however you will have a throaty very loud exhaust noise at higher rpms....Low rpms you should be ok...Those are straight thru mufflers like mine.... You can probably get similiar straight thru stainless steel circular mufflers off of Ebay for less then half that price....Just a suggestion if you want to save a few bucks...Most straight thru circular stainless steel mufflers like the ones in your link all perform similiar and are close to the same in looks...Like my Megan N1 racing mufflers...Very similiar to the ones in your link...I got my Megans for $40 each off of Ebay a few years ago new...

The bottom line when doing your exhaust is to think of the exhaust gases traveling threw your pipes, any bends in pipes, stock headers, Y bends, cats, resonators, mufflers all slow down the smoothe exhaust flow.....So deleting the cats and stream lining the exhaust is always your best bet for performance.... However, when necessary to keep that stuff the High flowing Cats, high flowing Mufflers, better flow Y's and high flowing resonators will offer very little flow resistance, but there is still some resistance.... Also the straighter your exhaust pipes the better the flow...You really want to limit or minimize the bends and curves so the flow jets out...It's really that simple... Oval mufflers will sound the best, Straight thru mufflers will perform the best and make the most noise, too...The flow continues right thru the straight thru mufflers as if they were a straight pipe..There is some muffled sound too....It not rediculous in sound.....With oval mufflers the flow is muffled more but also disrupted more....There is a difference....Now the stock mufflers are like a big wet spunge that offer much resistance and extreme muffled sound... Piping sizing...This is a bit confusing for most...For the best flow from chart comparisons the 2.25" mandrell exhaust piping is your best bet. For non turbo'd SC4 exhaust frow output...Any thing bigger then 2.25 will not flow as well for some reason...Something about the exhaust gases swirling threw the smaller 2.25 mandrell pipes offer the best flow rather then larger 3' pipes for example....That one took me along time to digest... I had always thought no exhaust is the best exhaust or larger is better, however that does not necessarly apply to the Sc's as it would with most any other cars....2.25" inch mandrell piping is the ticket for N/A SC400 engines.... Hope this helps...

Jibby, I think I may be underestimating the power gains a bit. When I get it in that sweet torque band (3K rpm) it screams. I will definitely get the torque converter after I take care of the cats. You mentioned that you had to add a transmission cooler because of the Dragon, where did you get it and how much was it? I've found the single Magnaflow cats, but I haven't found the 2-in-1 Magnaflow cat...any idea where I can get it? How about tightening the throttle cable? I read on some thread where this guy tightened his throttle cable to take up some of the slack, making his SC more responsive. I got the tranny cooler for the power output I am producing and not because of the torque converter...You do not need a tranny cooler with a torque converter change...You need a tranny cooler when you slap a 100whp Nitrous system on your SC.... Don't sweat the cooler... Try Ebay, Supershops, and maybe try google search for "magnaflow cats" and see what comes up.... Throttle cable is not the problem...I have never heard of the throttle cables ever being an issue with the Lexus's..I have been around these cars for years and years...Don't know where you heard that one bro.. If your car is sluggesh at take offs, and you think it is a mechanical problem, change the fuel filters, spark plugs wires, caps and rotors, clean the throttle body, and lastly replace the main negative battery cable...You should see some benefits to those changes... Rarely would your problem be from clogged cats, Electrical and or ECU problems, and lastly a bad sensor read....(usually the check engine light will flash if it is ECU or a bad sensor) Those are some things to consider...

Nice looking SC...Love the wheels and exhaust....Now just boost the motor and you will be set....