bartkat

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

I get mine from the local Toyota dealer for about $20.

I'm not sure what this means, but a 2002 IS300 at $15,000 is at least $2000 below wholesale/trade-in value.

If you get it checked out and it's ok, with service records, etc, I think that's a good price. You can go to www.autotrader.com and check asking prices in your area for similar cars if you wish.

Might check the condensate puddle from the A/C and see if that's it. Evaporator coils get mildew and mold, but then you should also smell it inside the car. I guess you already changed gas brands. There's some problems with sulfur smell with some gasolines, but that should smell around the exhaust and not the front wheels.

Are there fuse holders in the engine bay and also in the front kick panels on this car? Sure you looked at all the fuses?

True market value would seem to be closer to $24000.

According to Edmunds.com it's 20.6 gallons.

I don't think you can easily do it with bolt-ons. Might need some electronics and some internal work. My guess would be 50 HP gain max without spending thousands of dollars. Maybe do a google search or something on NA IS300 or Supras, and see who's got the best times with what mods. Most of the guys I know have gone with turbo.

WHP of a stock IS is more like 175 - 185. I doubt you're going to get close to 300 WHP without going FI.

I guess I'm showing my ignorance here, but what's an "ECU" and how is it reset? ← It's the engine control computer. To reset, just disconnect the car battery negative (black) wire for 15 to 20 minutes and then reconnect. This resets the computer to the original default settings. You will probably have to reset the clock and your radio station presets afterwards. The procedure is usually in the owner's manual, to be used in case a car fails emissions testing, and often will bring the engine back to a condition where it will pass the emissions test. It basically puts the computer back to the settings it had when the car was brand new.

WOT = Wide Open Throttle, or as you say put the pedal all the way down. Basically it doesn't have to be WOT, to cause the trans to downshift, but under certain load conditions the downshift will happen when you need more power to pass, go up a hill etc. Also when starting out, the further you push the gas pedal, the longer the transmission will stay in each gear before shifting.

Try browsing and/or searching here. Lots of guys with sound sysem mods on IS300's. http://www.is300.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=103

Fog lights?

Auto transmissions downshift to get into the engine's power band for acceleration and power to climb hills etc, depending on load and speed. When that happens, especially at WOT, there's going to be more noise, especially intake noise. What you're saying sounds pretty normal to me, unless I missed something.

Word it there will be a coupe and a convertible some time after the 250 and 350 get going. Maybe 2007.

When I was recommending filter media for R&D or production, I can't remember ever making a proposal based solely on the credentials of the filter guy. Oh well.

I really doubt it, especially for the 350. Claiming 300 HP is for sure on premium octane gas. After all, it's a performance car. If you look at the specs on the Toyota Avalon, it's supposed to run on regular, but the 280 quoted HP was done on 93 octane.

So if you're driving in a dust storm with dust hitting your filter at 9.8 gm/min, the Delco filter will last 60 minutes, or you have to clean your K&N filter every 7 minutes. That's interesting. I'm going to run down to the garage and put my OEM filter back in before the dust strom hits. :D

I would suggest that statements such as those above would require the presentation of some valid statistical data from a reliable and disinterested source.

Talk to Lance in Miami. http://www.toyomoto.com/sc300.htm

Dosen't Toyota (TRD) also offer a K & N type of re-usable air filter? B) ;) You can check it out at www.trdusa.com :whistles: Not sure of the prices however. ;) ← That doesn't look like a Toyota filter. TRD appears to be a third party selling non-OEM parts. ← http://www.trdusa.com/companyinfo.asp

Since Lexus acknowledged the problem, and since they put out a TSB on replacing/exchanging the players, and since they have replaced a whole bunch of them, it's certainly worth a try to get Lexus to take care of it, even though the warranty is up. They do realize there is a problem with those units.

I do hope you understand the concept of filtration, filter area, porosity, and pressure drop now, at any rate. I'm not trying to sell you or anyone else on anything, but after 35 years working with and doing research on improved filtration, I don't take it kindly when someone tells me I don't know what I'm talking about.