ArmyofOne

http://www.carmax.com/dyn/factsheet/factsheet.aspx this is weird... Equipment Air Conditioning ABS Brakes Power Steering Leather Seats Air Bag(s) AM/FM/Cassette/CD Power Windows Power Locks Power Seat(s) Power Mirrors Alloy Wheels Cruise Control Rear Defroster Sunroof Seat Heater Full Package Details Specifications Automatic 4.0L Engine 6 Cylinders 4 Door 2WD EPA Mileage 19/25 270 Torque@4500rpm 260 Horsepower@5300rpm its a 1995, has 93,000 miles and they want $14k...good price?

ok, is it possible i hurt anything by driving it? tomorrow, when i leave for work, if it slips, i will stop right where i am and add fluid to it where it sits. i cant see it leaking from anything...it isnt burning it...so unless its mixing with the oil, i cant figure it out! the pan seal is dry... as is the ground all around the car. ill tell you what, im not buying a new tranny if i can avoid it...and it has been shifting harder ever since i got it back from you jason for the filter change... i wonder if we didnt get the pan seal right? those can be EXTREMELY tricky, (as you well know) espeically if you didnt get every bit of gasket off. it happens. whatever the cause, its clear that the tranny wil need rebuilt soon, cause once they start slipping, they dont really stop... i wonder if the pressure hoses are leaking?

Did you check the ATF? JPI ← i checked the fluid and it looked a little low, so i topped it off, about a cup or so of fluid. it is shifting better, but even when it was low, i couldnt get it to slip after that initial start after sitting for awhile...i couldnt make it slip no matter how hard i tired...i put the ECT on and punched it down the street...went all the way to 50 (wonjt say where, just that it was deserted road..speed limit 45) and smooth as ever. i mean i literally FLOORED it. spun the tires and everything... i wonder where its leaking from?? shouldnt be the pan, just had that done by you in december... the plug is tight...there is no fluid coming out of the visible seals or the axle shaf holes...leaking from input shaft and mixing with motor oil from RMS? feel free to call me @ home ( the 817-485-xxxx number) jason... BTW jason, check this out: http://lexuslovers.com/gallery/albums/albu...02367.sized.jpg the source of my pull...i cant believe you missed that LOL.

Today, i had to rotate my tires, so up on the jack the car goes. no problems. tires are rotated, bubble found in 1 tire so i put the spare on. i set it down, and tightent everything up. (i might add that the car was running off and on while on the jacks). the front end was off angle quite a bit because i was already on a hill, and then had the front of the car jacked up. the car idled in par for a good 10 minutes (listened to the radio) while on the jacks. anywahys, i set the car down when i was done and i get in to take a test drive to see if my pulling to the left has stoipped. i put it in drive, and take off, the car goes, then slips, then goes then slips, slips some more and then goes. i drive it 10 miles with no problem. went in to my class...1 hr and 10 mins later i come out to go to class, back out of the parking spot (this may have been my fault) and all is well, but i go to put it in "D" and as i take off, it stumbles on itself again. the ony reason i say it couldbe me this time is because as it shifted to second, i let off the gas. after that, i went home, another 10 miles, not a hint of slip. i even floored it from one light and all was smooth as butter. but the first time it slipped, it REALLY SLIPPED. i was afraid i wasnt going to make it up my hill. i want to add that while the car was up on jacks, i spun the drivers side tire around to make sure the wheel was straight. couls this have done it? other than that and rotated the tires, i changed NOTHING>>> HELP!!! so as of now i am shopping for a remaned tranny anyone know if these guys are good? http://www.nyblock.com/

a standard rug cleaner will work, but an auto upholstery product will work even better. should be available at autozone, or even wal mart, but the best thing you can do is steam clean. use steam cleaning on the headliner with care though as it may undo the glue.

OMG!!!! Guys i just realized this link is nto right, they close my thread on CL. can somebody post the correct link??? ill remove the old one. though it appears to be working for me??? WTH?? Try copying abd pasting the revised link...

Agreed! B) ← ill agree, i cant so much as even try to break the rear end loose, it just aint happening!! even when bald they hold strong! i found something disturbing today...check this out guys: that would be the source of my pull, and of my slight wobble at low speeds...i wondered....

Just turning 2.05 for 93 here...if you want shell V power its $2.14

i would agree with SK here, the sheild will not affect anything vital at this point. Replace it at your leisure, the only thing it might do is make you fail a state Saftey inspection. dont replace the cat with a generic aftermarket one: http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com next time i am in houston (i have family there) maybe we can meet up.

http://grab.orsm.net/update20041021/burnout.wmv enjoy! **WARNING< MAY NOT BE WORK SAFE**

as long as they lat longer than these dunplops...15,000 miles is a disgrace!

having trouble with LOC loading slow? my PC recently crashed, but i never had a problem until after i reformatted and started over... is it the site or my PC?

there is an older gentelmen at my office, coming up on timing belt change #4!!! thats 390K!!!! just had a rebuild on the tranny at 360K. i helped him do it. had a head gasket replacement (left bank) at 298,000 miles, so we went ahead and did both sides. other than that, and perfectly timed maintenance, the car is perfect for lack of a better word. i dont think there is a scratch in the factory paint! he maintains it religiously, synthetic oil changes (dont start guys) every 3,500 miles. its a 1990 LS400 BTW. white and grey w/blackish blue interior, great looking car!

Thanks, guys. I thought I had to pry the box up, but I was afraid of breaking it. Everything plastic on this car is getting a little brittle. I'll try the petty knife, and thanks for the PDF! I hope I never have to remove the whole dash! John ← Actually, thje dash removal on your 90 LS is around the same as my 90 ES. farily straight forward. 5 bolts, a few brakcets and all the trim/speedo assembly and out it comes. you dont have a passenger side airbag, so the hardest part is removing the steering wheel.

yes but to see how much is really tweaked, the following parts must be removed: fenders fender liners grille headlights headlight mounting panel front bumper the vent thing around the bottom fo the windsheild (forget the name) hood wheels then and only then, when the front of the car is bare frame, will they/you be able to see what has to be done and accurately diagnose issues that may be hidden...1 broken spot weld could be criticial. i would drive right past any body shop that would give me anuthing more than a "rough" estimate without telling me they would have to see it while its apart. i hope your subframe (AKA engine cradle) isnt warped...that could mean big money. Example: that is whatt he car needs to look liek to be accurately estimated. so pull all that off except maybe the mounting panel for the headlights and the headlights themselvs and drive to a few body shops...see what they say about ordering a new fender and hood and bumper to the mix, (to minimize bondo useage) and then ask them about a paint match/full repaint.

i have a different engine, but i have almost 145K and its never been done according to what little service records there are, mine are working fine :)

well unfortunately we have no interior hots of the egine, i thought there would be...but thats ok: *Drum Roll Please* Timing belt, almost perfect! 143,564 miles!

thast a good point sk. a breakable mount. i never woudl have thought of that.

Thanks..I'd gladly become a GOLD Member if it wern't for having to have a PAYPAL account...noway there..done that!!! ← exactly my point, now if i could mail a check or money order i would be all over it!

← yeah that want a good move, but we all make mistakes. and one woudl assume it would also be ok for vinly when in fact it isnt.... its an easy mistake to make :) there is a product floating around on ebay thats supposed to soften dashes up after years of sunlight exposure...look for that. i forget the name. for now, i would try a SMALL amount of baby oil in a corner somewhere...that may soften it back up.

← 90, you are not the only one who has had the proeblem with "that product". that product he is referring to is lexol (i believe that was you commenting on it in another thead anyways) and i woudlnt reccomend it for anything EXCPET leather. In my experience, it doesnt do vinyl much good...especially dashboards.

no problem. as for your suction issue, the PCV valve only works one way...so the pressure thats in the crankcase with the valve in place will only go oput, it wont suck more in. its a one way valve. now, without your valve in place, you have the condition you got. its compeltely normal.

no worries about that, the fender well on my 250 is PLENTY wide...i couldnt beieve how wide it was... and if it will rub, then it wont fit on my rim... thanks for the input guys, ill keep you posted :)

camlex where are you located? i just noticed you were in TX. i can listen to your car and help diagnose it if you are near to dallas.

take it to an audio shop and pay to have the setup custom done...believe me, onthe ES250, the electronics are a MESS. the amp is located behind the dash, to connect an aftermarket HU, you have to run an aftermarket amp and bypass the factory one. you have to run an aftermarket HU because there are no RCA jacksor anything like that for an aftermarket amp. if i were you, i would buy the HU, subs, amp(s) and rear deck speakers, at a place like best buy and let them install it. electronices work on these cars is a nitemare...