92Lex

WOW...a 10 year old battery? I would love it if my battery lasted even half of that.

That is the exact same symptom my LS gave me when my spark plug holes got soaked with water.After we blew the water out, the car was fine. What kind of plugs and wires did you use when you changed them? Any malfunction lights? There are no malfunction lights. I used all OEM parts besides the spark plugs (laser iridium). I've read something on this board about loss of power and that it might have something to do with the cruise control cable...does that sound right?

I idle is neither low or rough, it seems normal...even when I increase the RPM's to 3k it still seems fine. I do smell raw fuel though. I've had the battery disconnected for awhile because I changed out the cap, rotors, wires and plugs recently.

So you have 2 LS'?

Anyone?

Oh, what I'm asking is if the pan drain should yield 2 quarts and I drain everything in the pan and add another 2 quarts then I shouldnt go over should I? If theres actually like 3 quarts in the pan due to an overfill then when I do the pan drain shouldnt the 2 quarts plus whatever they overfilled it with come out? WARNING: Everyone should check the condition of their oil and transmission dipsticks. I pulled the one for my tranny out to check my atf level and the bottom part "cold" section broke off and is in my tranny pan now. Now I have to remove my transmission pan AGAIN to get to the broken half. Damn, I've been having bad luck with my car lately.

I've seen Pioneer units go for 99 bucks on ebay.

I just took my 91 out for a spin after getting it to finally start up and now there's no power on acceleration. The car vibrates when I put the pedal to the floor and slowly crawls up to speed. Someone help me please.

I know a transmission pan drain should yield 2 quarts but Im not too sure on that anymore. I did a pan drain the other day on a flat and level surface and refilled it with 2 quarts. I went out to check the cold fluid level this morning and its all the way above the hot section on the dipstick. What gives?

It depends on how bad they are damaged but there are places that restore rims. I'm not sure what to look under but cost wise I was told that it would run between 20-50 dollars per rim to have them looking like new. Im positive you can get your rims restored though.

Dont know what I did exactly but my car is running again. I just took everything apart then reassembled it and it fired right up. Too bad this couldnt of happen the first time I took it apart. My cluster still goes black when I crank the car though...but at least its running. I also flushed the coolant and since its been hot here lately I havent used the heater...I just found out that the damn thing doesnt work. Its starting to get chilly at night...I cant wait till December. I just wanted to say Thanks to everyone for all the advice and feedback.

I pulled all the plug wires out last night and rewired them for the second time just to make sure everything was in place. Also took out the rotors and caps again and checked installation marks. I dont know why I keep doing this though...I guess Im just resorting to desperate measures. I also spun the crankshaft from TDC to TDC just to make sure my cam pulleys and timing marks lined up. ( Did this a total of 4 times ) If it were a sensor that was "knocked" loose then my car should still start but just have a driveability problem right? Its all good, Im just trying to get help and suggestions.

The battery was disconnected the whole time I was working on the car. I also checked the gaps before I installed every single plug. I double checked the sensors that sit on the front on the engine...the one that sits to the left of the battery right by the fan bracket...(looks like a speed sensor?) seemed loose so I tighten up the screw holding it. I pulled the battery from my other car and threw it in there last night but still no luck.

This is on my 91. Yes, I checked everything, I also made sure the grooves on the rotors lined up with the groove cam pulleys. I checked the wires like 5 times and went by the wiring diagram, Ive been back tracking but without luck. Like Bob said, if I have spark and fuel it should fire up but I may have a driveability problem if it's one of the sensors. It turns over at the normal speed but its just not starting up.

There's no CEL on....the car doesnt even start. I checked my valve timing 4 times just to make sure everything is lining up correctly. The car ran fine before I did any of this, it had low power due to an extremely dirty air filter so I figured I'd do a comeplete tune-up. The car cranks but doesnt start up... I have fuel and spark for sure. The weird thing is that my instrument cluster turns completely black when I try to start the car up...it returns to normal and is bright as soon as I back off on the key. I tried jump starting it with another vehicle and left the jumper cables there for a good 5 mins. I torque'd everything down to specs. Spark plugs @ 13 ft lbs, even though the box said 1/2-2/3 of a turn once the base of the plug is flush...that wouldnt be it right? I went back and back tracked my steps to make sure I didnt leave any sensors disconnected and cleaned up battery post and connections. So now its just sitting in the garage.

If it was a MAF sensor malfunction wouldnt my car just stall or idle ruff rather than not start at all?

I have fuel and spark. Whats the next thing?

I changed out distibutor caps, rotors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, checked alternator and battery and got deperate so I tried jump starting the car and it still wont start. The car cranks and dash lights all work but its not firing up... did I miss anything? I also checked valve timing and fuses. Any suggestions on where to look next?

Too late for getting the advice part because I already cranked it for a second and the bolt came loose with no problems. I already tried sticking the screwdriver like you suggested and also removing the big bolt that goes through the middle of the balancer, I was able to still use my wrench and socket though...I just ran an extension through the balancer.

Thanks. I finally got the bolt out by bump starting it. I have another problem now...how can I keep the crankshaft from rotating while I tighten the bolt? The bump start works to remove the bolt but Im stuck on doing the reverse. Ive already tried using the harmonic balancer puller I rented from autozone to keep the pulley from rotating. Any suggestions?

Ive searched this topic and came up with mixed answers. Has anyone removed this bolt on a 91 LS400? Is it normal or reverse threaded? Thanks.

Which one is better? Im looking at either a Phoenix Gold XS6600 or Soundstream Van Gogh VGA800.5. I need an amp that will power my whole system, my system consists of an Alpine CDA-7998 HU,(4) 4" MB Quarts and one 12" JL Audio 12W6V2 sub. Both of these amps are about the same price but which one is of better quality? Im only looking to spend about $350.00 on an amp. What would you guys go with?

I thought it was behind the tool compartment in the trunk? I pulled all the panels off in the trunk but Im still not able to find the amp that powers the sub..my sub works so it should be somewhere right? I also checked under the passenger and drivers seat but without luck. Where should I look next?

Nevermind, I finally found the answer in one of the forums.

Im trying to remove all the Pioneer components from my 91LS400, where are the amps located? I thought it would be under the CD changer but its actually not. Thanks.