92Lex

Fuel filter is located in front of the drivers side rear wheel. Remove splash guard:

Clean up the tranny pan and scrape off all the old gasket material. Take off the 4 magnets in the pan and wipe the metal shards off of them, then take some clean ATF fluid and wipe the insides of the pan. Install new gasket (or Form In Place Gasket) and reinstall pan...add ATF to appropriate levels. Torque specs : 65in.lbs

Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the filter in place and replace the filter. Torque specs : 7ft lbs

Remove all (18) 10mm bolts from the edges of the pan. It was kind of hard for me to get the pan off after I removed these screws because the old gasket material was sealing it. Once you break it free, just wiggle it until it comes loose from the upper portion of the dipstick tube. It looks like 1 tube but it actually comes apart...the other half is what you are able to see under the hood. Picture of pan removed (I circled where the portion that seperates from the transmission dipstick tube):

Unscrew the 14mm drain bolt on this pan and drain out all the existing fluid. Torque specs : 15ft lbs

Replace the 2 washers, then tighten the drain bolt. Add the gear lube through the fill hole until it starts to drip out of the fill hole...I attached a little section of 1/2" plastic tubing to the bottle to help me get the new fluid in. Once the lube starts to drip out of the hole (approx 1.4 quarts) then screw the fill bolt back in there. Clean up the area and check for leaks.

Loosen and remove the fill bolt first, then get a container to catch the old fluid and proceed with removing the drain bolt. Once both bolts are out, wipe them off. The drain bolt has a magnet attached to it and as you can see in the picture below, all that black stuff on the paper towel were actually metal shards.

Mines were on real tight so I had to use a breaker bar along with the 10mm hex socket to help break it loose...if you don't have a breaker bar you could just do this with an ordinary rachet...use your foot and "push" the wrench to help break the bolt loose.

You'll need: (2) quarts Gear Lube GL5 (1) 10mm hex socket (2) crush washers Keep the car on a flat level surface...slide under the car from the back and you should see this (bottom left silver bolt is the drain bolt and the top right one is the fill bolt): Picture of differential from the rear:

I replaced the grommet too...you probally won't have to, but I just took a further step.

Remove PCV valve with pliers and install new one....attach hose and clamp.

Hose removed:

Use pliers to loosen clamp (slide the clamp up about 2") then remove the hose leading to the PCV valve.

Once you've done all that, just fill up the resevoir to the top and start your car up....as soon as it starts up shut it off immediately. (Everytime you start your car up some of the old fluid will exit your system through that hose you attached and enter the catch container). Get out and add more DexronIII fluid to your resevoir till it's full then start it up and shut it off again. Keep doing that until you get all the old fluid out. After all the old fluid is out, just reassemble everything and fill up your resevoir with more fresh fluid. Start your car up, keep the cap to the resevoir off and slowly turn your steering wheel all the way left till it stops then all the way to the right (do this a few times)....this is to help get any air bubbles out. Reinstall cap and check fluid level...done.

Place a tube over the hose (I just used a garden hose because I was tired and lazy) and run the other end of that hose to a container to catch your old fluid. Make sure you lay out some shop towels under the resevoir, that way fluid won't drip on your alternator. Once you get the hose off, plug the inlet with something...I used a small piece of 4gauge speaker wire.

Use a pump to remove all the power steering fluid from the resevoir then remove that hose (under the green arrow) from the power steering resevoir.

Then remove this 12mm bolt and do the same for the other side...once you've removed these bolts just grab the back rest, pull it up a few inches....then pull it out towards you to remove the back rest.

Remove this 14mm bolt and remove the seat belt assembly, do the same for the other side.

Grab these tabs on both sides and just pull up on them...mines came right off, but you might have to use a crowbar or something similar. Once you have them off, just lift the seat up and pull it foward.

Spray on the Easy-Off and let it soak in for about 2-3 minutes then take a rag and just wipe it off. You shouldn't even have to rub it off...it should just wipe right off with the foam from the Easy-Off. Then remove the tape and paper and use a wet rag to clean up the area. Water neutralizes the Easy-Off. Make sure you wear gloves. It's EASY.

You'll need: Masking tape Paper (1) can of Easy-Off oven cleaner (use the yellow can): I tested this on the gas cap door first just to make sure it wouldn't damage my paint (it's a lot cheaper to get that small door painted versus having a whole panel painted). It didn't damage my finish at all....I didn't have to polish either. Use the masking tape and paper and mask off above and below the pin stripe... working on only 2-3 feet at a time.

Remove thermostat and replace....make sure you keep the air bleed towards the top, then install everything is reverse order that you removed them:

Remove thermostat housing (2)10mm nuts:

Drain coolant, then disconnect radiator hose from thermostat housing:

Remove air duct so you'll have more room to work with (1)10mm screw: