RX in NC

I'm not familiar with that particular trouble code, but please keep us posted as you learn what component it points to. Perhaps others will jump in here if they've experienced your particular trouble code themselves. You should call your local Lexus dealer, speak to the service manager, and attempt to get him/her to tell you more about what your trouble code means. Some will, some won't. But you won't know unless you try. I believe that good quality fuel injector cleaners are money well spent on an occasional basis. Unlike most oil additives which are all about hype and convincing you to part with your hard-earned money, tests have shown over the years that fuel injector cleaners usually accomplish the purpose they are designed to perform. The best news is that they are very inexpensive. Go ahead and pop that bottle in your tank and see if it makes any difference for you.

That's a pretty comprehensive set of attempted fixes you've undertaken. I'm not sure that there's much more you can do yourself. But I do have a few questions: 1. How many miles are on the vehicle? 2. When you drained your original fluid, was it still pink/red or was it more grey or brown in color? 3. Did you notice any small metal shavings or particles in the original fluid? 4. Has your transmission fluid been changed at least every 30,000 miles using only Toyota Type T-IV fluid?

SW03ES, You'd best cease continuing to insist that there is something between my lines when I've already stated that there was no disrespect or offense intended towards you or anyone else. I don't presume to know your motivation when you compose your posts, and how dare you attempt to put words in my mouth by presuming to know mine. I've never called you a "stupid kid", nor would I regardless of what I personally think about what little I know of you. The fact that I strongly disagree with your opinions or advice on this particular subject would in no way cause me to call or even infer ugly names about you. The best thing you can do in this situation is to quickly get over your paranoia about it. No, my comments have not been intended to discredit you, and I accept and appreciate your apology. Now let it go, for cryin' out loud.... My sole interest in this subject is to assist others who find themselves in the same plight we were in last autumn. You seem to be unable or unwilling to understand that I'm not talking about the e-throttle issue, I'm talking about transmission safety in general. If our problem had been strictly with the e-throttle situation, then our new (rebuilt) transmission installed by Lexus under warranty at 48,500 miles would not have resolved my wife's fear for her safety in this vehicle. She has not modified her driving habits; in fact, the new (rebuilt) transmission has greatly mitigated the unsatisfactory, unpredictable, and unsafe conditions that she routinely experienced last October and November that caused her to fear for her life. Please make a wholehearted attempt to understand that. I will not engage in any future dialogue with you concerning problems with the RX transmissions. I continue to believe that your advice to "learn to adjust your driving habits" is extremely dangerous, and I would caution you to give serious thought to what you advise others to do when they check in with RX transmission complaints in the future (which will undoubtly continue).

I've already stated that no offense (actually "disrespect") was intended. But I can't control the fact that SW03ES chose to respond by attempting to insult me. This forum has served as a great source of information towards alleviating the struggles we've endured with my wife's RX over the past year. I've learned to value the advice of those who've been there and ignore the advice of those who haven't. And that's the way it should be, with nobody getting their feelings hurt in the process.

SW03ES, Regardless of your angry expressions above, from my point of view this is not about disrespect. I have no intention of disrespecting you. My point is that you do not own a vehicle that suffers from this problem, you have not had first-hand experience in dealing with it and attempting to find a permanent and acceptable solution, and I think you're dead wrong when you state to everyone who brings up this subject on this forum that the best solution is to learn to adjust their driving habits to their inconsistently-performing RX transmission. Not only is this bad advice in my opinion, it is dangerous. And I base my beliefs on our own significant experiences with my wife's transmission troubles last autumn. And speaking of disrespect - no, you do not "know more about cars and the auto industry than you will ever forget". That in itself is a very disrespectful thing to say to someone. But if you're going to attempt to insult me, then at least state the insult correctly - for maximum effect, you SHOULD have said "I have forgotten more about cars and the auto industry than you will ever know". But as you'll learn over time, age and experience can be a wonderful thing when it comes to attempting to get tough problems resolved by dealerships who generally prefer to attempt to sweep unpleasant problems under the rug. You may be considered a member of the management team on this forum, but that in no way means you are always 100% correct in your views. Kindly allow those of us who are now or have previously experienced these RX transmission issues to discuss the pertinent information, diagnostics, and potential solutions to these problems. I have no conflicts with any other member and have freely offered my experiences and recommendations to other folks who've been through the transmission problems and premature oxygen sensor failure, and several members have thanked me for taking the time to do so. I strongly believe in sharing diagnostics and fixes that work for the benefit of the next guy who has to deal with it. Husker4theSpurs hit the nail squarely on the head. And banning me from this forum would serve no purpose other than to relieve your own anger because someone out there strongly disagrees with you in this particular case and believes that you're offering dangerous advice.

Walterbn, If it makes you feel any better, be aware that I wrestled with SW03ES on this forum last autumn as he seems to assume that every reported transmission hesitation problem with the RX series is automatically associated with the e-throttle functionality and he believes that each owner should respond by altering their driving style accordingly. For those of us who've been driving vehicles for longer than SW03ES has been alive and know the difference between a properly-performing transmission and one that's poorly designed and intermittently functional (and therefore potentially very dangerous), that is simply not an acceptable solution. I forced Lexus to install a new (rebuilt) transmission under warranty in my wife's vehicle last November at about 48,500 miles, and it has performed much better (but not perfect) since that time. She now has about 71,300 miles on her vehicle. You can bet that I'll change the Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid at least every 30,000 miles as long as we own this RX in order to mitigate the transmission design weakness as much as possible. We won't be purchasing any more RX's after this one wears out. Good luck as you continue to knock heads with Lexus management. Keep us posted on what you learn. I hope that there truly is a permanent fix out there somewhere, but I sincerely doubt it at this point. You just can't fix poor engineering with a patch.

There's no question that this is premature failure of your real oil seal. But you may or may not experience additional problems as a result. The good news for you is that the failure occured under warranty. Continue your regular oil and filter changes and hope for the best. But by having them performed at your Lexus dealership, be aware that you are paying an extreme price for what is typically very routine maintenance.

APN, The dealer replaced our Bank 1 Sensor (the one near the firewall) in August using their "goodwill" warranty extension. This sensor failed at about 68,000 miles. Both trouble codes pointed to this particular sensor, and its replacement fixed this particular problem on my wife's RX. No, I never cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor because the trouble codes did not point to it. Plus, our Mass Air Flow Sensor failed last October and was replaced by the dealer under regular warranty at about 48,000 miles. Damn these multiple lousy sensor components - I've never had an oxygen sensor fail at less than 120,000 miles on any of my other vehicles, and we've had at least a dozen different vehicles (none of them either Lexus or Toyota) since oxygen sensors first came into widespread usage on vehicles in the mid-1980s. Other RX owners on this forum have described how they cleaned their Mass Air Flow Sensors as part of their troubleshooting process. It typically involves using a can of throttle body cleaner spray as well as a can of compressed air. Check the forum threads from this past July and August and you'll see some excellent details of just how several folks went about doing this. In a couple of cases, cleaning this sensor fixed that individual's particular problem. But you have to take your time, use the cleaning products carefully, and be sure not to oversaturate the sensor components with the cleaner fluid. The canned air assists in creating rapid evaporation of the cleaner fluid so oversaturation is avoided. Keep in mind that if your particular trouble codes don't point to the Mass Air Flow Sensor, you're probably not going to succeed in turning off your "Check Engine" light on your dashboard by cleaning it.

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend lower-than-normal tire pressures in order to increase the chances for a soft, cushy ride. That way, they get fewer initial complaints from their customers about harsh rides. But then the tires are shot by 25,000 miles and when customers complain about lousy tire life, the dealers blame it on the tire manufacturers. For far better mileage and longer life, bump your tire pressure up to between 30 and 32 psi year-round. Always check your pressures when the vehicle is cold (first thing in the morning is best). And check your tires weekly, not monthly. You'll catch problems sooner and greatly prolong the life of your tires.

My eventual solution to the transmission problems in the RX series is to learn from my experiences and not purchase another one. My wife already knows that once she wears out her current RX300, we won't be replacing it with another Lexus product. I know that's not what you want to hear, but I truly believe it's the best solution given all of the known problems with this series. There are other well-respected small SUVs out there that have a solid history of bulletproof transmissions. We've had two Grand Cherokees (a 1996 and a 1998) that were roomier, faster, easier and much less expensive to work on, and had far better 4x4 capabilities than my wife's RX300 does. Their engines and transmissions never gave us even a hint of a problem, and we kept both of them beyond 130,000 miles each. We'll probably go back to the Grand Cherokee upscale version when it's time to dump the RX.

A couple of other common RX failures involve the exhaust manifold and the multiple oxygen sensors on this vehicle. The exhaust manifold has a tendency to crack so have it checked for leaks. If you find that yours is indeed cracked, it is a warranty issue and your Lexus dealer will replace it at no charge. The multiple oxygen sensors tend to begin failing early, sometimes at less than 50,000 miles. You'll see a "check engine" light illuminate on your dashboard, and your best bet at that point is to go to your nearest AutoZone where they will plug in their code reader and determine your trouble code at no charge to you. The trouble code can then be cross-checked to inform you what's wrong. It's usually one of the sensors. Lexus charges extreme amounts of money for these little devices, but you can usually save yourself quite a bit by going to www.oxygensensors.com and ordering them yourself. Good luck with your RX. This site has provided me with numerous RX maintenance tips and tricks over the past year. That has enabled me to save significant money in maintaining my wife's RX myself. She likes the vehicle but I don't and since I'm the one who must work on it, we won't be buying another one after she wears this one out. Just too many flaws and they're overpriced and underpowered.

If you'll spend some time looking at the posts on this site which discuss the common negative experiences of RX owners and their transmissions, you'll begin to understand that the automatic transmission is the biggest weakness in the RX line-up. Take it from those of us who've been there. Play it smart and change your transmission fluid every 30,000 miles regardless of what your Owners Manual says. Always use Toyota Type T-IV automatic transmission fluid - allow NO other fluid type to enter your transmission case. You can change your own fluid - it's very easy to do. You'll need a 10 millimeter Allen wrench to unscrew the drain plug, and you'll need 4 quarts of Toyota Type T-IV fluid from your local Toyota parts department (they sell it cheaper than Lexus does). Drain your fluid, and start by filling 3 of the 4 fresh quarts through the dipstick tube using a small funnel. Keep checking your dipstick level as you slowly add fluid from the 4th quart, and by the time you're done you will have used almost 4 quarts of fresh fluid. Be sure to continue to check your fluid level as you drive the vehicle over the next 24 hours to ensure that you've got it right. Changing your automatic transmission fluid every 30,000 miles is a small price to pay to minimize the likelihood of transmission failure. These RX transmissions are prone to wear out prematurely if the fluid is not changed regularly, and you should bear in mind that Lexus wants about $7,000 for a new (rebuilt) one....

Yep, you definitely overpaid, especially if the vehicle is not all-wheel drive. Watch out for your transmission. Change the fluid every 30,000 miles, and ensure that nothing but Toyota Type T-IV automatic transmission fluid goes into it. The RX series' biggest weakness is it's transmission.

I recommend that you check with your local Lexus dealership and ask for some relief on this unusual problem. With only 57,000 miles on your vehicle, it would not be surprising if they offer you at least a partial refund. It is very rare for a spark plug ignition coil to fail so early and you may be able to obtain what Lexus calls its "goodwill warranty extension" as a result. Make a phone call or stop in and plead your case - all it will cost you is some time. Good luck.

We had to replace the Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (also called the Bank 1 Sensor) in my wife's 2000 RX300 a few weeks ago at about 68,500 miles. This particular sensor is located on the back side of the engine close to the firewall. It is cylindrical in shape and silver in color. It must be accessed from underneath the vehicle. Our trouble codes pointing to this particular sensor were P01130 and P01135. If your problem truly is with the Bank 1 Sensor, then cleaning your Mass Air Flow Sensor will not correct your problem. You are in no imminent danger of doing any damage at this point by allowing the "Check Engine" light to remain on and attempting to solve your problem initially by cycling a couple of fresh tanks of gas through your vehicle's system. I would add some fuel injection cleaner/gas treatment as well. If you decide to tackle this problem yourself after narrowing down the diagnosis, go to oxygensensors.com to learn more and possibly obtain the part required.

My experiences with Goodyear tires over the past 20 years have collectively taught me to avoid them whenever possible. The last decent Goodyear tire I've had on an SUV was a set of Goodyear Vectors on a Jeep Cherokee in the late 1980s. All other Goodyear tires we've had on our collection of SUVs over the years have resulted in a short tread life, poor handling, and especially poor performance in wet weather (which is dangerous and life-threatening to anyone in the vehicle). During the few times that I've actually custom-ordered an SUV from the manufacturer, I've always included the statement that I will NOT accept any Goodyear tires on my new vehicle when it ships to my dealer. Michelin builds several well-respected (and premium-priced) SUV tire models these days, but the best bang-for-the-buck and top-rated SUV tire at tirerack.com now is the Yokohama Geolander H/T-S G051. I'll put a set of these on my wife's RX300 late this year when her current Bridgestone Duelers wear out at 42,000 to 44,000 miles (the Bridgestones have been only marginally acceptable). If you're looking for long tread life, good traction in both wet and dry conditions, and you drive mostly on the highway, then this may very well be the best SUV tire choice you can make right now.

Thanks guys. I'll probably go with the Yokohamas by year-end 2004. Many tire dealers consistently place their tires on the best sale of the year in mid-to-late December in order to clear out inventory by January 1st for tax reasons. Any idea if tirerack.com does this as well? If so, their $77 per tire price may drop down to somewhere in the $60s and become an even better deal....

If you research the consistent problems that have been documented with the RX transmissions, you'll realize that if you opt to follow the Owners Manual and NOT change your transmission fluid during the life of your vehicle, you'll be rolling the dice and playing with fire. To be safe, change your transmission fluid every 30,000 miles. Use only Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid - don't let anyone else talk you into using a "better" or "superior generic" fluid, regardless of who they are or what they say. You can easily do this yourself. You'll need four quarts of fluid, a 10 millimeter Allen wrench to remove the drain plug on the transmission casing, and a small funnel to refill the new fluid (which is done through the "check transmission fluid" tube in the engine compartment. Once your old fluid is drained, re-install the drain plug and start with three quarts of new fluid through the funnel into the tube. Check your dipstick, and when it's all said and done, you will have used just under four quarts of new fluid. Don't pay your Lexus dealership $130 to do this $20 job. If you can jack up your front end and properly support it, you can easily do this yourself, do it right, and ensure that the correct fluid is the only component that ever goes into your RX transmission. And that's absolutely crucial if you value your automatic transmission.

Ceramic brake pads are typically harder, quieter, and create less dust than regular brake pads. Prices vary widely - you should shop around. Unless you're still under warranty, do NOT go to the Lexus dealer to get your new brakes. The dealer will charge you double or more what a good brake job should cost. There are many shops and chains that specialize in brakes - get out your Yellow Pages or go online and find them in your area. Newspapers and mailings often carry coupons that can save you $25 or $30 per axle. Many brake shops offer discounts to AAA Club members or other motor clubs. Brakes are not rocket science - find a good brake shop in your area and save yourself some money.

My wife regularly experienced conditions very similar to what "pds" described with her 2000 RX300 AWD last autumn, and she gradually came to fear the vehicle as unsafe. It took me a month to accomplish, but I forced Lexus to install a new (rebuilt) transmission last November, under warranty at about 48,500 miles. She just reached 70,000 miles this past weekend and she's yet to experience these unsafe conditions since the transmission was replaced. You can bet that I will change the transmission fluid, using only Toyota Type T-IV fluid, every 30,000 miles during the period that we own this vehicle. No vehicle should have to "learn" your driving habits before it performs properly - don't buy that flimsy excuse. Get your transmission situation resolved before you wind up in an accident.

RX transmissions are a well-known weakness in the Lexus line-up. If you can't document transmission fluid changes every 30,000 miles using ONLY Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid, you'll be driving a time bomb. Keep in mind that Lexus wants about $7,000 for a new (rebuilt) transmission. As with any used vehicle, oil and filter changes are also critical. If you can't document oil and filter changes every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, you could be facing the well-known Lexus engine sludge (also known as "gel") problem. Do keep in mind that any vehicle with this many miles on it will be expensive to maintain, even if you can do most of the work yourself. Examples of repairs that you will be facing include timing belt replacement, oxygen sensors failure, cracked exhaust manifold, water pump failure, radiator problems, etc. Spend some time reading some of the posts on this forum that pertain to older RX purchases, particularly those that describe transmission failures. My personal advice is simply this: I wouldn't even consider buying the RX300 you described....

I'll be replacing the Bridgestone Duelers on my wife's 2000 RX300 AWD later this year, and I've seen some extremely high praise for the Yokohama Geolander H/T-S G051 on tirerack.com. They appear to be rated the number-one all-around SUV tire on the market right now, but I know they're relatively new (first offered in 2003, I think). But at $77 a tire, they seem to be unbeatable for typical highway and commuter driving if all the good words are true. Anybody out there been running these tires for awhile, say 10,000 miles or more? Are you happy with the rain performance, mileage wear, and noise factor? I expect these tires to be quite a bit stiffer than the Bridgestones, and that's fine. My wife's a cautious driver, does a lot of highway driving using cruise control, and has made her poorly-rated OEM Bridgestones last almost 40,000 miles thus far with probably another 6,000 to 8,000 miles left on them before I throw them away and go with something better. These Yokohamas seem like a no-brainer. Comments?

Booyah, You just have to hang in there and hope that someone with the experience you're looking for will eventually read your post and come through for you. Choosing the proper title and description of what you're looking for can help quite a bit. I agree with you - I try to offer information on RX-series subjects that I'm familiar with based on my experiences with my wife's vehicle, but keep in mind that most people are looking for answers to their own specific problems and unfortunately aren't familiar with someone else's specific concerns. And sadly, some are too lazy to type even if they can help you. Also, some of the folks who can and will help you only check in sporadically. "skperformance" seems to have a lot of Lexus knowledge, but it's hard to figure out what he's really saying sometimes because his keyboard skills are terrible. "Castrol" used to be a great source of RX information here, but I no longer see any posts from him - maybe he got rid of his RX. Some days I check in multiple times, but sometimes I go a week or more without having the time to spend on this forum. If you keep checking back every few days, you may eventually get the help you're looking for. I know you want instant assistance, but it rarely happens here.

Regular 87 octane runs just fine in my wife's 2000 RX300. Every 3,000 miles or so I pop a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into the tank just for good measure. She's put 28,000 miles on her vehicle over the past year without a hint of pinging, and acceleration is fine for a baby SUV that in my opinion is underpowered from the get-go. But I drive a 5.9 liter V-8 so I'm a bit spoiled in that regard.

RX300 (and RX330 for that matter) transmissions are a definite weakness in the Lexus line-up and unless the vehicle's service records can absolutely prove that ONLY Toyota Type T-IV transmission fluid has been utilized throughout the life of the vehicle, it's BUYER BEWARE every single time. Lexus wants about $7,000 for a new RX transmission, and NO used RX is worth spending that kind of money out of your own pocket for....