tta300

I just need to clarify that you bought 2 of the same part number even though Rock Auto lists that there is only one in the car. Would you still have the part # ? And once again what did you remove to get at them? Thanks, Mike 1.) Yes, 2 identical sensors BECK/ARNLEY Part #0905024. Inside the box, the sensors are labeled with Toyota genuine parts sticker #89413-24010 2.) Remove air filter box

I did not go with the $28 ones, but with $61 Aisins with full manufacturer warranty. I've just checked on their website, but it was not listed anymore. They were probably out.

The two sensors on the tranny are the same for sure. I bought 2 Aisins, identical to the ones on my car. The Toyota will not fit mine as the notch on the socket receipting area is different (look closely). As soon as you remove the air filter box, you'll see the input turbine speed sensor. There is no need to remove the battery. The description by RockAuto is incorrect; plus they are listed under the wrong category. You may go to Beck/Arnley website to see better pictures of the sensors.

I have a '99 4wd and have been vigorously replacing tranny fluid as recommended by others. After reading so much about the 2 speed sensors, I went ahead and replaced them. I had to say that I was amazed by the improvement in shifting quality. The old input turbine speed sensor, facing the bottom of the air filter housing, had a dirty tip. The counter gear speed sensor, 45 degree facing the bottom of the battery, looked clean, but I decided to replace it for the peace of mind. My experience told me weak sensors may not trigger a code. By the time they go bad/dead, for a transmission, it is too late. I purchased them from RockAuto (listed under "cruise control sensors"). The sockets for "Aisin sensor" and "Toyota sensor" are different. There is a notch in the middle for Toyota sensor, but for Aisin one it is off-center. You'll have to unplug yours to see which one fits your socket. To remove the sensor, you need to swing, twist, and pull. To install, you need to lube the o-ring with tranny fluid and make sure you push it all the way in. It is a tight fit, but an easy job. By the way, our transmission is build by Aisin Warner/Aisin Seiki, part of Toyota.

Neutral Safety Switch or PNP Switch provides input signals to ECM to indicate shift lever position. The contacts inside get worn/corroded over time. It is located on the side of transmission, facing the front of the vehicle. You'll see it once you remove the battary and the air filter housing. The following is a picture link of a similar device. http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/i...20088503OES.JPG

Although the synthetic oil may last 5000 or more miles, at 4000 it looks dirty. The cost for one Mobil1 5-quart container and a Toyota brand filter is less than $30, plus 30 minutes in doing the change and 3-4 times a year. This is the cheapest insurance I can buy for the infamous 3.0 engine on RX300.

It seems you've sat the pads well in the carrier and positioned the caliper. Will you be able to push the lower slide in/out? Push it real hard but slowly. The lower slide tends to seize easily. You can push it out to lube the slide and push it back in.

Since the basic warranty expired on my '99, I've been using Mobil1 5w-30 and changing oil & filter every 4000 miles. Out of curiosity, I pulled the left bank valve cover 3 weeks ago. At 119,000 miles, there was no signs of sludge, carbon build up, or obvious cam lobe and valve disk wear. I wish I had pictures to post. It is farely easy to pull the left bank valve cover. A new rubber gasket is all needed to put the cover back on.

Will you be able to push in/out the upper caliper slide all the way? There is a rubber plug in the back. If the plug is missing and water gets in, rust can limit the movement and it may be the case.

It was very cold in my area last week. The tire pressure was down to 25psi, instead of 32 that I checked three weeks ago, and it made a difference in steering feeling. Changing the fluid in the reservoir will help a little too, if the belt tension is properly maintained.

A Toyota dealer can replace the part for you at reasonable cost, and get it done right for the 1st time. Since you are there, you may ask them to drain and refill 4 quarts of Toyota Type4 transmission fluid to improve shifting. If I were you, I would not count on advice from any other garage or local transmission shop for engine/transmission related issues. Good luck!

Possibly your neutral safety switch is going bad. To confirm, start the engine, step firmly on your brake, and change gears back and forth numerous times to clear the contact in the neutral safety switch. If it helps your problem, you need to replace the switch soon.

The friction area of each Toyota front pad is divided into two parts with a deep groove in the middle. One part is smaller than the other with a deeper sloped edge. I replaced both front and rear pads a few years ago, but could not remember if the smaller side should face the top or the bottom of the carrier. Anyway, I've installed the new pads by facing smaller side toward the top of the carrier. With new pads and the new rotors, I eliminated the vibration issue when braking.

Has anyone changed out the front brake pads by yourself before? The friction area on each pad has a deeper slot on one end. I'm not sure if the deeper-slot side should face toward the front or the back of the vehicle. It is Toyota brand brake pad for '99 rx300.

Hope you get an answer because I have this problem (high initial rpm) all of the time. So far no one has been able to help me. I have concluded my problem lies with the ECU. However, based on your experience, perhaps my IACV is the problem. I had ruled that put because idle does ramp down to normal as engine warms up and idle control is fine at normal engine operating temp. Just curious, did you experience a change in the idle form when you got the RX? I only ask because RX's generally start off (cold) with a higher than normal idle RPM. I assume this is to get the oil, trans-fluid etc up to temp faster, but its quite common for many vehicles to do this. I've had my rx300 for 110000 miles. Yes, the cold engine idle is as high as 1500rmp and gradually dies down to around 500rpm. I haven't seen any changes in idle form, but I would clean out the IACV first if it was rough. This is the 3rd time with good result.