SeaDuck79

Given the apparent fact (from reading your writing) that English is not your primary language, I think the probability that you misunderstood both the tech and the manual is very high. The ECT switch is exactly what our esteemed Administrator says it is, and his arguments supporting his point are compelling to anyone with a functional cerebral cortex.

I know it's supposed to do that if the L/R button is set to L, I think, but it's doing it now on both Left and Right setting. Midpoint seems to be ok. Anyone else seeing this? I'm accumulating a growing list of minor issues to address in service. Rear wiper TSB Roof rack - one bar won't move (never has) Mirror setting Front seats squeak a little (is that just something I have to live with?) Computer update for tranny (I think I saw a TSB for that) Some minor recall thing I got from the dealer a few weeks ago

On the plus side, the RX is a very safe car, meaning that if you're involved in a serious accident, the likelihood of personal injuries being serious are lower than in most other cars. That should help with the rates. We're in our 40's, but have a couple of recent minor accidents on our records, yet our rates went DOWN when we replaced our '96 minivan with our '04 RX330.

My advice would be to recognize that neither the dealer nor the tire manufacturer is responsible for things they cannot control - the alignment of a vehicle you own. I had the same thing happen on my Focus this year, and I would not have dreamed of blaming anyone else for my not having the alignment checked. Some things just happen and are not necessarily someone else's fault.

There is a hill on that route between the airport and downtown that is both sloped and has a couple of sharp curves. How's she handle there?

I thought it was just mine that did that. Hmmm...I'll wait for word they have a fix for it.

Something I noticed just this last week on my 330 is that if all of the doors are unlocked, you can open it from the outside by just pulling on the handle of the hatch, or by pushing the button in the pix above. The key is that all the doors have to be unlocked. There are computer codes that can be altered to make this a one-button vs. a two-button procedure.

I don't think anyone is questioning your honesty, and please don't take the lack of support personally. Your work on this site is very appreciated, and should be subsidized at least to some extent. All I'm saying is that $50/yr is more than I am willing to pay. On the occasions in which I get a spare $50, there are lots of things I'd rather spend it on. Sorry.

Consider that a membership to ESPN costs less than that. Which site provides more content? I'm not saying I don't like it here, but I'd be much more willing to pony up $20-25. I'm a techie myself, so I understand about your costs, but sorry, no way it's worth $50/yr to me.

I wasn't all that impressed with the base stereo - the AM side sounds very muddy. CDs, etc. sound ok, but nothing special. I would have expected better in a $40K car, but it's mainly my wife's car, and she doesn't care.

The 330 is new for '04, so I would think they would keep it for a few years, at least. The 300 was around for what, 7? 8? years? The 400 is the hybrid version, but that will be in addition to the 330, not as a replacement for it.

I have a different take on the mileage - if someone's running 24K a year on a car, chances are, most of those are highway miles. Those are easier on a car by a long shot than city mileage. My wife drives her 330 10K a year in city, I drive 20K a year on the highway (Ford Focus). At 93K, I am still on my original brakes, clutch, etc. Will she be? I doubt it. All miles are not driven equally.

Noticed something when taking our new 330 out for a spin a couple months ago. While on the coast highway doing about 45, I let off the gas, put it in N, and turned on the cruise control. I was expecting that nothing would happen (due to interlock), but instead, the engine started racing. I shut the CC off before the revs got high, so no harm was done, but I just wanted to warn anyone who might like to cruise down a long hill in N to be careful when re-engaging the CC - it apparently doesn't check to see if you're in gear. Seems like an enhancement request to me - with all the interlocks in place, that seems an unlikely omission.

The issue isn't really whether your driving skills (or mine) are capable of handling this car at 100 mph - I'll grant that they are. The issue to me is whether that should be done in a populated area, regardless of who is or isn't in the car. If the only risk is to ourselves, we can make that acceptable risk decision. When others are involved, only an immature person would think they have the right to make that decision for others. Please drive responsibly - I would hate to see whatever you have to offer the world be lost in a moment. Ditto for those who might accidentally be in your way.

We have a brand new RX 330 - about 3K miles on it. My wife noticed the last few days that the auto wipers would be on when there was no moisture on the glass or in the air - it was a clear evening. We switched them back to manual, and they work fine that way. Defroster was on, and the window was clear. Anyone seen this?

I hope that this freeway is one without other people around. It doesn't matter if someone thinks they know what they're doing - it only takes one other driver who isn't expecting a car going that fast and makes the wrong move in front of one to turn a joyride into a tragic situation. Graveyards are full of people who knew what they were doing, and who got in the way of those who thought they did. I might suggest that you ask yourself honestly if what you're doing with the time you gain by driving that fast (and dare I say recklessly) is worth risking someone's life (including yours) over.

I would stay out of this, but I have a genetic inability to do so, so I'll just say this: Both of you seem very informed, and care about this issue. I thank you both for your service to the LOC community. If both of you (and the rest of us) address the issues and evidence (or lack thereof) instead of one another, and not take offense where none is intended, we can all agree or disagree like grownups. OK?

I think your price is a little high, but your special order may have killed any bargaining position you had. If you bought something without the multi-panel roof, you could probably have it for a few thou less. Would an aftermarket roof have cost that much?

I was actually surprised to see the price my dealer offerred for the extended warranty. I had priced it at other places prior to going in, so I was prepared to talk them down closer to that number, but to my amazement, their price was already pretty competitive (I think around $1100), and I got the 100K for the price of the 70K, so I felt pretty good about it. I had gotten a great deal on the car already, so I was a little surprised they did that. It is definitely a good idea to comparison shop on those BEFORE you go to the dealership - knowledge gives you bargaining position.

But if the issue was the engine lugging down, why wouldn't it downshift at the same RPMs under the same conditions whether or not the cruise was on? It's not even a close call now - it downshifts WAY before I think it should, and where it never would without it.

These were not slick roads or big hills - I would expect a downshift on a steep hill. What I REALLY expect is that a computer controlling the gas pedal will operate it at least as efficiently as my stupid foot does. Why does that seem to be too much to ask?

I got the extended warranty with our 2004 RX 330, after seeing that seals and gaskets were not only covered, but could very likely pay for the cost of the coverage. I asked the dealer if they'd give us the 100K plan for the cost of the 70K plan, and they said OK. I don't know if you have that option available on a used one apart from the dealer, though. Seals and gaskets (like around windows, etc.) are the most likely failure points on these cars. Make sure they're included in whatever you buy.

When I have the cruise control on, the kickdown is VERY sensitive. Far more so than when I drive without the cc. Has anyone else seen this, and know of a way around it? It downshifts at small inclines - less than an overpass.

Right after we bought our '04 a few months ago. we fully loaded it and drove it to the Oregon Coast. Still got about 23 mpg on that trip, and get about 17 or so around town. Seems within norms to me. Maybe you could have someone see if there are little things you do that waste gas.

I think the "dealer can't cut the key" line may be true for newer cars with more computer stuff, but I would think not for a '99.