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I have yet to find anything on this! Anyone else?

A buddy of mine has a Grand Cherokee that originally came with a 45RFE (4 Speed Auto) transmission. The following year, the truck model had a 5-45RFE (5 speed auto). After doing some research, he read that the only difference between the two transmissions was ECU programming. So, he took it to the dealership and had the gear "added" via reprogramming the ECU. Nothing was added or subtracted from the drivetrain, just the programming was changed. After a little research on my own, I am wondering whether or not an sc300 ecu could be programmed to "add" an extra gear. I've searched through the forum to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas, suggestions or comments? Sae.org (A350) Abstract =>SAE Abstract

I hope that no one forgot the beautiful civic wagon!!! Appropriately enough, there is one for sale in wally worlds parking lot around here!

The economy figures that you have listed are what I have read about the 1JZ getting for conservative driving. I do like hearing that the boost comes in at such a low RPM! I was also wondering about a dyno on the torque curves for the two motors. I have been searching around online, but to no avail.

bean_8044, what kind of fuel economy do you get with the 1jz under typical conditions?

lexus082, When I put 97 tails on my car, I recall it being very snug. The fit is not exactly straight forward, that is I had to move in at an angle for a proper fit. Take your time and try different angles of approach. Good luck!

Thanks for the replies! I'm thinking about doing an upgrade on my car, and it looks like the 1jz is a lot less expensive to purchase in comparison to the 2jz (i am speaking about the turbo versions) . I've read that the 1jz is a miser when it comes to 'normal, daily' driving, while the 2jz is not as much. I will be using my sc as a daily driver, so I'm looking at reliability, cost, parts availability and some extra punch (I do miss not having a turbo car!). This would be either a summer or winter project, but I want to thouroughly explore this venture.

...between the 2 motors?

Is this a rear engine car? I ask and wonder because it looks like cooling fans on the back of the car.

Here's the link for the rabbit article in DIA: http://www.9news.com/acm_news.aspx?OSGNAME...47-c589c01ca7bf DENVER - Eric Underwood parked his Audi in the economy lot at Denver International Airport, and when he came back from his honeymoon, there was a warning light on his dash board. "When I first called the Audi people, they said, 'have you been out at DIA?'" Underwood said. Rabbits or rodents had chewed through his oil sensor wires. "I know when I was getting my car repaired, there was two other people at the dealer getting the same problem repaired," he said. McDonald Audi service technicians say the issues with rabbits chewing through car wires is becoming a regular problem. "There were certain times over the summer we were getting one to two cars a day," one technician said. McDonald Audi has remedied the problem by replacing plastic coating with braided metal wiring. But, it's not an inexpensive fix, sometimes costing a couple hundred dollars. And some people like Underwood have decided to not take any chances at all. "I'm flying out next week and I'll probably have my wife drive me out to DIA and drop me off and pick me up." Underwood said. "I don't want to pay for another repair."

THanks for the replies! What I thought was rabbit pellets were actually what I think were acorn shells! I did however find what looked like mouse droppings! The critter chewed through cylinders 5&6's wires and the black cover on the rear of the rail. There was also other vegetation(leaves,twigs,etc) where it looks like there was a nest being made! Now if I could just and a hamster wheel, and connect it to the flywheel...

A 1997 Ford F-350XLT Crew Cab dually with the PowerStroke turbo diesel. An excellent truck! I could haul at least 4 SC's with it! LOL! Over 250,000 miles and the truck feels like it is just being broke in! -1989 Ford Probe GT Turbo..quick car that got about 30mpg@70mph and could smoke Mustang 5.0's! Had over 320,000 miles on the motor! I let it sit for 4 months, dropped in a new battery and started right up! Current owner is now doing a partial restoration on it. -83 GMC stepside truck with an oak plank bed. Head turner! Attracted a lot of attention, though it was a chocolate brown. -90 Beretta I picked up for $150 (freeze plug in motor blew), put another 2.8 motor in it(another $150), drove to Portland,OR and back (nearly 5000 miles) and sold for $200. -89 Bronco II. the predecessor of the Explorer with the rollover capability and turning radius of a Wrangler, fun though! -82 Chevy Caprice with a vinyl top, but Brown! Very comfortable ride (like a Caddy), inexpensive to maintain, and a tank! Hit a sign pole (metal stop-sign like pole) with a reflector on top doing about 65mph, didn't even scratch the chrome bumper! -85 Audi 4000E, 5spd. 1st car; FREE! nice, quick, but so many common VW electrical problems that it was not worth keeping!

I've not seen an SC with the a 3rd or 4th door. It would be an excellent way to access the rear seat!

CanadaCraig, I like the idea, though I'm not sure if I'd ever buy one! I think that I would really feel like a chouffer! The door placement kind of reminds me of when the Saturn 3-door first came out.

I noticed that my car recently started to slightly misfire, so I looked on the back plug wires looking for access and noticed that the last plug wire had chew marks!! Not only was the plug wire chewed on, but so is a black plastic cover directly behind it! Upon closer inspection, I then saw RABBIT pellets! Can silicone wires really be that much of a treat? I mentioned this to a friend who tells me that a Colorado airport was having problems with many people leaving their cars in long term parking coming back from their trips unable to start their cars. SOmeone had their car towed to a shop, when they pop the hood a rabbit jumped out! (someone capitalized on wire netting for under the engine!) So... I'm changing plugs, wires, cap and rotor this weekend and want to make sure that I'm not missing or forgetting anything. When I take the air intake off, should I expect to use any out of the ordinary tools rather than a sockets or wrenches? Also, what are the gaskets made of? Are they reusable or do I need to purchase new ones, and if I do what should I look for? Anything else I should look at while the intake is off? Yes, I will be using a wet vac to clean sh*t up!

Lexus L500 http://www.automobilemag.com/auto_shows/lo...a_design_lexus/ Great idea for the seating arrangement! ...and you can entertain while driving!

Do a search on the forum and you will come up with the info you are looking for!

escee, Check out http://www.intellexual.net/faq/lexusstereo.swf This is a link for the Pioneer amps, but if you spend enough time with it, it can help you with the Nakamichi.

Thanks for the reply. She is now starting smoothly!

The other day, I dropped off 2nd season Sopranos at the video store when I came back out, started my car when I heard what I think was the starter wheel still engaged to the flywheel. So, naturally I shut the engine down and restarted, then the starter continued to stay engaged though the engine was running and I had let off the key, so again I shut the engine down... but the starter kept trying to start! I even pulled the key out of the ignition. I sat there for a moment bewildered and decided to drop the e-brake. The starter stopped. This makes absolutely no sense to me! I've seen nothing like this before! I know that my starter needs to be looked at, but recently I have been too busy. Does anyone know why this happened? Any input would be helpful!

z89101, If I remember correctly, the mirror body can be removed after removing the interior door panel. Just be aware that you will also need to unplug a harness as well. Are you sure that someone did not go by and try pulling it off? I live downtown in a college town and some piece of !Removed! drunk ripped my power antenna out (the interior nylon cord was broke so the tip protruded about 1/2"). This would not have bothered me all that much ( i was going to replace it anyway) but apparently when it broke it came down and scratched my finish as well. No respect!

BMAN, the constant ticking that you are hearing may be the fuel injectors. If you listen carefully to see where the noise is coming from, the injectors are probably the source. Every electronic fuel injected vehicle has had a similar tick. I had asked a mechanic on another car I had about the noise and he said that it was very common for injectors to make this noise.

Not too long ago I was out running a few errands when suddenly my stereo cut out and moments later I smelled ozone. So, I popped my trunk and a cloud of smoke rolled out. I pulled the fuse out of the block under the hood and noticed that the fuse did not burn (and it was the proper amperage fuse). Apparently, I had a short. This is the 2nd time i've had problems with the stock stereo, so I'm gutting it all and starting from scratch. I am looking at a couple of eclipse head units, however I am considering whatever I think sounds good, is quality and fitting to the interior. I want to use a free air sub, and use an amp that will properly drive the sub but at a mininal size because I do use my trunk space. Preferably, I would like an in dash disc changer (like an '04 Lincoln LS) or at least one that is unobtrusive. I also want to keep the speakers at stock size. Any suggestions would be helpful!

Thanks for responding sc_toy. What type of metal did you use to shim with brass, copper? I figure that this will probably be a relatively simple rebuild. I would just like to accomplish this without wasting a couple hundred bucks. The starter motor still sounds quite healthy and is probably still in excellent condition sans a small piece of metal!

The solenoid on my starter is clicking. Though I can still start my car, the solenoid will need to be changed relatively soon!