Timing Belt Replaced & Throttle Body Cleaned

[oohryry]

Well, after printing the instructions for changing the timing belt and water pump, I decided to let the mechanics handle it. It just appeared to be too much work for me to handle alone. And every mechanic I called to try and help wanted at least 600.00 to change the timing belt on a Lexus. Took it to Len Stoler Lexus yesterday and got a loaner, 2006 ES330. Very nice ride for $36000. Although the acceleration in my opinion is poor. It has a 218hp 24v V6, but it just seems to have no pull whatsoever. I know it's a Lexus, but I still expect some performance out of that beautiful machine. Anyway, Timing Belt 600.00, Water Pump 176.00, Throttle Body cleaning 190.00, Cut and program master key 260.00, minus 5% discount will put me at about $1175.00. Every shop I called wanted more than the dealer for the timing belt job.

They did tell me something about my cams or something to do with the oil maybe leaking within the next year. Anybody know anything about that. I check with them when I pick up the car. The Service lady told me it was nothing major at this time. It just appears to be wearing so keep an eye on it. The part is cheap but the labor is 15 hours. They have to remove the transmission to perform the work. Anyway, I'll tell you all what it is later. I think I got a good deal considering having the work done at Lexus. Any opinions.

[Ross W.]

I think I got a good deal considering having the work done at Lexus. Any opinions.

Considering you got a loaner out of the deal, and if you also consider that your own time is valuable too, plus you did not feel too confident about it as a DIY job, money well spent. Besides, if something's messed up, it's on their dime. There is no Lexus dealer where I live, but I'm fortunate in that I have an excellent mechanic, Morin Bros. Automotive here in SLO county, CA. If I work on my own car, it's because I WANT to work on it, not because I HAVE to!! No matter what though, I take the time to make sure I'm confident to do the job, for the above mentioned reasons. Another good thing about my mechanic is that he's the first to tell me to go ahead and do it myself instead of just taking my money, if it's something he knows I'm capable of taking on, which is nice. Suits my Scottishness very well!

One thing I've learned about my car is that on some things I need hands the size of a little kid's, which I'm definitely not! Mentally I'm permanently twelve however. Mostly the car is pretty easy to work on though.

[oohryry]

My mechanic passed away about 5 years ago. I'm glad you have a good mechanic Ross. They don't come a dime a dozen. Well, I'm back. Seems the throttle body cleaning didn't do what I wanted. I still get the check engine light on when I turn off the Air Conditioner, and the throttle body code is what the problem was when I took it to Lexus to have the code pulled 6 months ago. Well the beautiful service lady gave me a much larger discount than 5%. The bill was actually $1374, minus $281.00 in discounts plus tax for a total of $1124 for the timing belt, water pump, throttle body cleaning and the master key. I know I'll be going here now for service so I can try the loaner RX330 next go round. I forgot what everyone said the squeaky sound was coming from when you push on the front end of the car up and down. May be the ball joints or the rubber wearing on something. I don't know, I deal with that later, but I'll probably still need a throttle body replacement so I can cut off the a/c button next winter and save some fuel.

[Threadcutter]

ooh:

I don't know, I deal with that later, but I'll probably still need a throttle body replacement so I can cut off the a/c button next winter and save some fuel.

With all due respect, you're not making any sense. Specifically, there is no reason whatsoever to replace the throttle body. That would be like tearing exterior walls off of your house and replacing them because your house needed a coat of paint on the outside.

Whoever is telling you that you need to replace your throttle body is preparing to rip you off. The most it will need is a good cleaning. If, after the cleaning, the problem remains, then the problem wasn't in the throttle body to begin with.

They did tell me something about my cams or something to do with the oil maybe leaking within the next year. Anybody know anything about that. I check with them when I pick up the car. The Service lady told me it was nothing major at this time. It just appears to be wearing so keep an eye on it. The part is cheap but the labor is 15 hours.

Uhhh........this one sounds like the rear main seal. More specifically, this is the seal that surrounds the rear of the crankshaft. The crank doesn't have to be removed to replace the seal, but the hard part is just gaining access to the seal. The tranny has to be disconnected from the back of the engine and moved back enough that the old seal can be removed and the new one installed.

If I'm correct, then I think they're being accurate this time. $20.00 seal, $1,000.00 labor. They can probably do it in less than 15 hours, but it's not the easiest job in the world.

There's got to be a good Indie in fairly close proximity to you. You really need some second opinions.

[oohryry]

Thanks Threadcutter, Lexus of Towson told me I had to replace the throttle body. That was the code coming up on the readout. I had it cleaned yesterday and the problem is still there. As long as I have the air conditioner running I don't have that problem. Once I cut it off after a couple of miles or so, the check engine light comes on and takes control of the throttle and puts my rpms at about 2000 and stays. I have to cut off the engine for about 5 seconds then restart it to get the gas pedal back to normal operation. To get the check engine light to go off I have to restart maybe 2 or 3 times. What you said about the seal I'm pretty sure your right. She told me the part was close to nothing, but the labor was extensive. But I'm pretty sure she will look out for me and give me the best rate she can. As for the throttle body, I'm in a blindspot, that's the only code that comes up and I've had the throttle body cleaned. The part is just so expensive I just have to run the a/c forever.

[Ross W.]

What year is your LS? My '94 has a TPS switch hooked up to the throttle and that's it. Either way, the throttle assembly is pretty basic. A big round door inside hooked to the gas pedal and the TPS, and that should be about it unless later cars had drive-by-wire throttle controls. Then there would be additional sensors and servo drive for the throttle plate- or air door as they're supposed to be called these days! One thing to consider is the wiring harness. A mechanic I won't go to anymore tried to replace the TPS, which they installed backwards, :o. During the checking of the TPS they pierced the wires to get their multimeter in to take a resistance reading, a definite no-no. My current mechanic had found that moisture had gotten inside the wires. He told me to dry them out and re-seal them. In your case there could be a broken or corroded wire that's failed, triggering the computer to light up the CEL and limit engine power. No matter what the dealer needs to do a more thorough diagnosis IMO.

[oohryry]

I have a 98 Ross. I just keep the a/c running so the check engine light wont come on and take control of the gas pedal. The gas pedal becomes hollow when the check engine light comes on if I turn off the a/c and you have to push the pedal all the way down to the floor in order to get acceleration for the rpms to go past 2000. But cutting the engine off and restarting gives me control of the gas pedal again with the check engine light still on and of course the vss because that automatically cuts off when there is a problem.

[Threadcutter]

ooh:

Lexus of Towson told me I had to replace the throttle body. That was the code coming up on the readout.

That's what they told you the code was, I take it?................Marvelous......"your car runs rotten, so we'll replace a chunk of aluminum"..........Brilliant.

I'm not the guy to go into details about the "Idle Air Control Valve" or the "Throttle Position Sensor", but there are others on this board that are. Be a little patient & give them a chance to chime in.

Your vehicle is "OBDII" (On-Board Diagnostics II), which means you can get an OBDII Reader/Diagnostic tool, hook it up to your car & get a lot more info about what's wrong than what the dealer has told you so far.

I've got a friend who is an electronics engineer (but he IS smart). He's got a domestic "something" & he was having a stalling problem that got worse & worse, so he finally took it to the dealer. Their answer? "$1,000.00 & we'll have you up & running in no time"....His answer? "screw you!". He took it, stopped by the local auto parts store on the way home & picked up an Auto Xray scanner, got home, plugged it in & determined that the TPS was bad. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a 5K Ohm potentiometer. Being a geek, he had, oh, about 10 of them in his basement. BTW, a little chain store by the name of Radio Shack carries them too.......But they rip you off by charging you $10.00 instead of $5.00 each.

Anyway, He runs downstairs, grabs one, performs the transplant & an hour later, the car runs like new. He's so full of himself now, I can't hardly stand to be around him. Mostly kidding.....he and I swap experiences back and forth.....works good for both of us.

I had it (throttle body) cleaned yesterday and the problem is still there.

Well, that tells us that it wasn't dirty enough to be the root cause of your problem. But, you have successfully eliminated one item......Good.

As long as I have the air conditioner running I don't have that problem. Once I cut it off after a couple of miles or so, the check engine light comes on and takes control of the throttle and puts my rpms at about 2000 and stays.

I have to cut off the engine for about 5 seconds then restart it to get the gas pedal back to normal operation. To get the check engine light to go off I have to restart maybe 2 or 3 times.

As for the throttle body, I'm in a blindspot, that's the only code that comes up and I've had the throttle body cleaned. The part is just so expensive I just have to run the a/c forever.

I'm just wondering if it doesn't have something in particular to do with the Throttle Position Sensor sending bad information to the ECU, the ECU trying to correct, etc........Then, re-starting the vehicle resets the ECU & the whole process repeats itself. Has anyone done any work on your car lately where the could have damaged soemthing? Did this problem start "all at once" or did it slowly get progressively worse?

[rich13]

ooh:

Lexus of Towson told me I had to replace the throttle body. That was the code coming up on the readout.

That's what they told you the code was, I take it?................Marvelous......"your car runs rotten, so we'll replace a chunk of aluminum"..........Brilliant.

I'm not the guy to go into details about the "Idle Air Control Valve" or the "Throttle Position Sensor", but there are others on this board that are. Be a little patient & give them a chance to chime in.

Your vehicle is "OBDII" (On-Board Diagnostics II), which means you can get an OBDII Reader/Diagnostic tool, hook it up to your car & get a lot more info about what's wrong than what the dealer has told you so far.

I've got a friend who is an electronics engineer (but he IS smart). He's got a domestic "something" & he was having a stalling problem that got worse & worse, so he finally took it to the dealer. Their answer? "$1,000.00 & we'll have you up & running in no time"....His answer? "screw you!". He took it, stopped by the local auto parts store on the way home & picked up an Auto Xray scanner, got home, plugged it in & determined that the TPS was bad. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a 5K Ohm potentiometer. Being a geek, he had, oh, about 10 of them in his basement. BTW, a little chain store by the name of Radio Shack carries them too.......But they rip you off by charging you $10.00 instead of $5.00 each.

Anyway, He runs downstairs, grabs one, performs the transplant & an hour later, the car runs like new. He's so full of himself now, I can't hardly stand to be around him. Mostly kidding.....he and I swap experiences back and forth.....works good for both of us.

I had it (throttle body) cleaned yesterday and the problem is still there.

Well, that tells us that it wasn't dirty enough to be the root cause of your problem. But, you have successfully eliminated one item......Good.

As long as I have the air conditioner running I don't have that problem. Once I cut it off after a couple of miles or so, the check engine light comes on and takes control of the throttle and puts my rpms at about 2000 and stays.

I have to cut off the engine for about 5 seconds then restart it to get the gas pedal back to normal operation. To get the check engine light to go off I have to restart maybe 2 or 3 times.

As for the throttle body, I'm in a blindspot, that's the only code that comes up and I've had the throttle body cleaned. The part is just so expensive I just have to run the a/c forever.

I'm just wondering if it doesn't have something in particular to do with the Throttle Position Sensor sending bad information to the ECU, the ECU trying to correct, etc........Then, re-starting the vehicle resets the ECU & the whole process repeats itself. Has anyone done any work on your car lately where the could have damaged soemthing? Did this problem start "all at once" or did it slowly get progressively worse?

ooh:

Lexus of Towson told me I had to replace the throttle body. That was the code coming up on the readout.

That's what they told you the code was, I take it?................Marvelous......"your car runs rotten, so we'll replace a chunk of aluminum"..........Brilliant.

I'm not the guy to go into details about the "Idle Air Control Valve" or the "Throttle Position Sensor", but there are others on this board that are. Be a little patient & give them a chance to chime in.

Your vehicle is "OBDII" (On-Board Diagnostics II), which means you can get an OBDII Reader/Diagnostic tool, hook it up to your car & get a lot more info about what's wrong than what the dealer has told you so far.

I've got a friend who is an electronics engineer (but he IS smart). He's got a domestic "something" & he was having a stalling problem that got worse & worse, so he finally took it to the dealer. Their answer? "$1,000.00 & we'll have you up & running in no time"....His answer? "screw you!". He took it, stopped by the local auto parts store on the way home & picked up an Auto Xray scanner, got home, plugged it in & determined that the TPS was bad. The TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is a 5K Ohm potentiometer. Being a geek, he had, oh, about 10 of them in his basement. BTW, a little chain store by the name of Radio Shack carries them too.......But they rip you off by charging you $10.00 instead of $5.00 each.

Anyway, He runs downstairs, grabs one, performs the transplant & an hour later, the car runs like new. He's so full of himself now, I can't hardly stand to be around him. Mostly kidding.....he and I swap experiences back and forth.....works good for both of us.

I had it (throttle body) cleaned yesterday and the problem is still there.

Well, that tells us that it wasn't dirty enough to be the root cause of your problem. But, you have successfully eliminated one item......Good.

As long as I have the air conditioner running I don't have that problem. Once I cut it off after a couple of miles or so, the check engine light comes on and takes control of the throttle and puts my rpms at about 2000 and stays.

I have to cut off the engine for about 5 seconds then restart it to get the gas pedal back to normal operation. To get the check engine light to go off I have to restart maybe 2 or 3 times.

As for the throttle body, I'm in a blindspot, that's the only code that comes up and I've had the throttle body cleaned. The part is just so expensive I just have to run the a/c forever.

I'm just wondering if it doesn't have something in particular to do with the Throttle Position Sensor sending bad information to the ECU, the ECU trying to correct, etc........Then, re-starting the vehicle resets the ECU & the whole process repeats itself. Has anyone done any work on your car lately where the could have damaged soemthing? Did this problem start "all at once" or did it slowly get progressively worse?

You did not say what cde was present. based on what you are saying it appears to be a electronic problem. the throttle body does not know if the a/c is on or not. holding your idle up is trying to cool the engine (by raising the rpm pulling more air into the engine compartment)_ or maybe trying to adiust the idle for accessories thet drag down engine idle. I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

[Threadcutter]

Guys:

I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

I would not consider a new throttle body under any circumstances..............Unless maybe a 747 fell out of the sky & crushed it. For what the stealers want for a throttle body, you can buy a JDM long block MOTOR (complete with throttle body), ie: about $750.00.

[CanadaCraig]

A mechanic I won't go to anymore tried to replace the TPS, which they installed backwards

Hi Ross W.!! :)

If I may butt in for a minute. YOU said... [read quote above]

I was curious... did you DRIVE your car with the TPS on backwards? [is that possible?] If so - what was THAT like? My car also had a new TPS installed about a year ago. [maybe it's been longer than that - I forget!!] When I push the gas pedal to the floor from a STOP - it will accelerate faster IF I ease UP on the pedal. It's also just as quick to 60 MPH with the pedal half way down as it is ALL the way down. I'm thinking dirty throttle body AND improperly set [or stretched] throttle CABLE - but I'm still open to any idea.

My car also takes 34 seconds to reach 100 MPH. Considering it shouldn't take much more than 21 seconds - my car is pretty darn SLOW!!

I hope that makes sense.

Thanks,

Craig!! :)

[Ross W.]

A mechanic I won't go to anymore tried to replace the TPS, which they installed backwards

Hi Ross W.!! :)

If I may butt in for a minute. YOU said... [read quote above]

I was curious... did you DRIVE your car with the TPS on backwards? [is that possible?] If so - what was THAT like? My car also had a new TPS installed about a year ago. [maybe it's been longer than that - I forget!!] When I push the gas pedal to the floor from a STOP - it will accelerate faster IF I ease UP on the pedal. It's also just as quick to 60 MPH with the pedal half way down as it is ALL the way down. I'm thinking dirty throttle body AND improperly set [or stretched] throttle CABLE - but I'm still open to any idea.

My car also takes 34 seconds to reach 100 MPH. Considering it shouldn't take much more than 21 seconds - my car is pretty darn SLOW!!

I hope that makes sense.

Thanks,

Craig!! :)

Actually, what I meant by "backwards" is that the mechanic installing it engaged it backwards in the "teeth" on the throttle shaft. The car drove okay, but on the highway if either I or the cruise control backed off the throttle to compensate cresting a hill, etc., the computer thought the throttle was completely closed, which it was not. What happened then was the computer would go to idle mode, in that the injectors would be firing appropriately for an idle situation. To replicate what the car would do, take your foot slightly off the gas and turn the overdrive off, or engage second gear. That's an almost perfect simulation of what the car would do on the highway. A little disconcerting to say the least, and more than frustrating because the mechanic refused to do anything about it. He kept saying it was fine and what I was describing was in my head. That's when I found a new mechanic. Actually the people who found the problem were a local transmission shop. They were able to duplicate the problem I was describing with a road test, observing the process with their diagnostic scanner hooked up. They figured the TPS was suspect even though the computer was not seeing a fault. When they took the TPS off the throttle assembly, they discovered the mistake I've described. They said that if the TPS were merely out of adjustment, the car would not have behaved the way it did. They replaced the TPS because the wrong installation caused it to bind at about 3/4 open throttle, which in turn wrecked it. I took the car to a transmission shop because I thought the problem was trans related. But over a period of a couple of days road testing and 30 minutes work I had a perfectly running car and I was very, very pleased. I bought the staff lunch I was so pleased! The reason for the whole affair was that the original TPS failed a few months after I bought the car. Looking back on it, I'm still really surprised that a fault code didn't show up. Then again, when the original TPS failed, no code showed up then either. It's a puzzlement....

In the case of your car, Craig, check TPS function. Your car's behavior also suggests that perhaps the computer is pulling back the ignition timing, which could be another sensor malfunctioning, like the O2 sensors or knock sensor. Do the TPS first though. Have a mechanic scan for codes, either permanent or pending as well. Beyond that, make sure the cats aren't plugged, replace the fuel filter just in case, and check the fuel pump as well.

Hope this helps!

[oohryry]

Guys:

I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

I would not consider a new throttle body under any circumstances..............Unless maybe a 747 fell out of the sky & crushed it. For what the stealers want for a throttle body, you can buy a JDM long block MOTOR (complete with throttle body), ie: about $750.00.

lmao. Man that was funny. I think you're on to something Threadcutter. I will check on a throttle position sensor, the cost for the part and replacement and see what happens from their. If that works, I can use the savings to become a Gold Member. It's about time, all of the advice that's posted on this site alone is worth it.

[Threadcutter]

Guys:

I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

I would not consider a new throttle body under any circumstances..............Unless maybe a 747 fell out of the sky & crushed it. For what the stealers want for a throttle body, you can buy a JDM long block MOTOR (complete with throttle body), ie: about $750.00.

lmao. Man that was funny. I think you're on to something Threadcutter. I will check on a throttle position sensor, the cost for the part and replacement and see what happens from their. If that works, I can use the savings to become a Gold Member. It's about time, all of the advice that's posted on this site alone is worth it.

Ooh;

It pleases me to no end that you found the humor................I sometimes worry about posts being "heard" the wrong way. I do have a sarcastic & sometimes cynical sense of humor. But, I can & do laugh at myself & my mistakes.

I get very cheesed when an unethical, lyin', cheatin', stealin', theivin', low-life scumbag stealer repair manager tells someone that they need a new throttle body. They should be flogged for that kind of behavior. I'd have a hard time NOT throwing a brick through their front window if they'd pulled that crap with me. I can just picture grandma, on a fixed income, being told by some 18K, gold plated shark that she needs to spend a grand to fix a problem that a $5.95 can of SeaFoam would cure. She opts for the new throttle body (which they probably don't replace) & Alpo for the next 3 months for dinner.

I think I suggested a code reader in a previous post. Have you given any thought to picking one up? You can read operating parameters & fault codes (& clear them too.). You know when the stealer is jerkin' yer chain........money well spent. OH REALLY dickweed?......My handy Dandy OBDII code reader say's yer a LIAR! I'm getting moist just thinking about it......

[CanadaCraig]

In the case of your car, Craig, check TPS function. Your car's behavior also suggests that perhaps the computer is pulling back the ignition timing, which could be another sensor malfunctioning, like the O2 sensors or knock sensor. Do the TPS first though. Have a mechanic scan for codes, either permanent or pending as well. Beyond that, make sure the cats aren't plugged, replace the fuel filter just in case, and check the fuel pump as well.

Hope this helps!

Hi Ross W.!! :)

I appreciate the help. Sorry I didn't say so earlier - but to be honest - I forget I posted in this thread. LOL

YES - I'm getting OLD!!

Unfortunately - almost everything you have suggested has already been done. [with the exception of the knock sensor and the two rear-most O2 Sensors] There are no 'fault codes' being remembered. Now - of course - maybe the new parts that they [the Lexus mechanics] have put in don't work - but who knows. The throttle body has never been checked and it does have a somewhat rough idle. [to the point of shaking the car a bit] The rough idle becomes more noticeable at 1400 RPM and again at about 1800 RPM. It's NEVER as smooth as I THINK a Lexus LS should be. Maybe Lexus GLUED those champagne glasses to the engine!! :P

Craig!! :)

[swordfish]

hey craig and you guys,

remember i have similar problem down here with acceleration going soft after 4000rpm and struggling to 5500 rpm.

well dont know if you saw my post on another thread, but i have made car much better by of all things replacing the coolant reservoiur cap!!

it was gone hard and cracked in the seal, and not holding pressure. Maybe computer sees low pressure as low coolant level and retards ignition? any way, i did that and put in 95 octane instead of the 91 i was running (down here manual says use 95) and had injector clean job done on the car, and it is much better. Miss at hot idle seems to have gone,although the guy said fuel system was not all that dirty.

Full throttle now gets u to 5600 and changes up withoout backing off, but is still slow from 4000 onwards.

I am still thinking a sensor or wiring problem some where is making ecu !Removed! the timing.

I have new cats, wires, plugs rotors,caps etc.

any one think i should do the tps?? One mechanic said it was fairly worn.

swordfish

[oohryry]

Oh well, I know you guys are pretty tired of this post. But, I'm going to buckle down and let the Pittsburgh Stealers, I mean dealers take me to the bank next month. I called the service lady and having to know something about cars, she agreed that she cant see why the throttle body should be replaced entirely. After her discussion with the mechanic that looked at my vehicle, she told me he informed her that if I don't have the throttle body replaced it will eventually lock up on me, and that cleaning it did not solve the problem as I can see. The computer is taking over the engine acceleration occasionally even with the a/c running now. She is going to call me back with the cost. The labor isn't an issue, it's the part that runs around 1100.00. She tried to find a way around it. Their are two throttle body sensors, one for the opening and for the throttle. Apparantly, they are supposedly working correctly on my vehicle. I will ask her by chance if they can replace them with new ones just to check to see if that would fix the problem, but I'm sure that the answer would be no, unless I pay for the new sensors which would run about 425.00 for both. She told me the diagnotic code was I believe 1178. Thanks for all of your help guys. I really do appreciate it. Especially the 747 joke. I just flew for the first time last week to Seattle on one. Or was it a 757. Flying is pretty cool.

[Threadcutter]

Guys:

I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

I would not consider a new throttle body under any circumstances..............Unless maybe a 747 fell out of the sky & crushed it. For what the stealers want for a throttle body, you can buy a JDM long block MOTOR (complete with throttle body), ie: about $750.00.

lmao. Man that was funny. I think you're on to something Threadcutter. I will check on a throttle position sensor, the cost for the part and replacement and see what happens from their. If that works, I can use the savings to become a Gold Member. It's about time, all of the advice that's posted on this site alone is worth it.

Ooh;

It pleases me to no end that you found the humor................I sometimes worry about posts being "heard" the wrong way. I do have a sarcastic & sometimes cynical sense of humor. But, I can & do laugh at myself & my mistakes.

I get very cheesed when an unethical, lyin', cheatin', stealin', theivin', low-life scumbag stealer repair manager tells someone that they need a new throttle body. They should be flogged for that kind of behavior. I'd have a hard time NOT throwing a brick through their front window if they'd pulled that crap with me. I can just picture grandma, on a fixed income, being told by some 18K, gold plated shark that she needs to spend a grand to fix a problem that a $5.95 can of SeaFoam would cure. She opts for the new throttle body (which they probably don't replace) & Alpo for the next 3 months for dinner.

I think I suggested a code reader in a previous post. Have you given any thought to picking one up? You can read operating parameters & fault codes (& clear them too.). You know when the stealer is jerkin' yer chain........money well spent. OH REALLY dickweed?......My handy Dandy OBDII code reader say's yer a LIAR! I'm getting moist just thinking about it......

Ooh:

I'm sorry, but this is just killing me......................$1,100.00 (part cost only, labor extra) for a throttle body? Please, please, please say you're not serious...........

I am ROTFHAAF (Rolling On The Floor Having An Apoplectic Fit) over the prospect of you going ahead with this.

Have you studied this link?

Throttle Body Cleaning

Granted, it's for a 1st Generation, but the concept is the same for your car.

Go to this website & do a "keyword search" for "throttle body" under mechanical parts.

PPL

It will yield the following result;

throttle body, LS400, All 98-00 $883.73 $0.00 $733.50

Fuel system - Fuel induction - throttle body

$883.73 is List, $733.50 is your NET COST!.

This is Severely PIISSSING Me Off!..................They are Getting Ready to Steal your cookies, crumbs, jar and all!

C'mon guys, help me out here! We're supposed to be helping each other. We've got one of our own that's being set up for a fleecing........