rich13

First thing check for a leakin the system. I do not think that is the problem. @nd rebleed the brakes you more than likly have a air bubble in the line somewhere. If you do not have a pressure bleeder then fill the master cylinder then remove the bleeder screw from each caliper one at a time and pump the brakes (engine off) and run a bowl of fluid to each caliper. Just opening the bleeder will not always move a air bubble since not alot of fluid come from the bleeder. Take your time. The booster does not sound like the problem. air in the lines sounds like a problem. If there is a local parts store that rents pressure bleeders that would work also. Rich

Where are the letters located. what year is your car I might have a set if they are on the rear. let me know... Rich

AS some have stated the heater box holds the heater core and a/c evaporator core. When the drain tub clogs it holds water. Water creates mold mold creates smell. The best fix is check the drain tube if it is clear this is good. But the box also can collect leaves and other debris this also breaks down molds etc. If this continues you might have to pull the blower motor see if you can reach in can feel any debris in the heater box. You can also smell from there if there is a problem. I have seen where the boxes need to be removed and bleached clean the worst case scenario is to change out the box itself since the smell impregnates the plastic. Good luck.

High I saw your post on brake fluid. Brake Fluid is water soluable (it breaks down in water) any moisture in the fluid will break the fluid down and with anti lock braking systems in today cars there are electrical sensors the fluid comes in contact with. If the fluid is not changed out it can absorb enough moisture that it can cause corrosion to the anti lock sensors and those parts get real expansive real fast. The fluid should be changed by pressure flushing the system at each wheel. By opening the bleeders you might keep from needing new calipers when brakes are replaced and caliper bleeder screws brake off. It sounds expensive to flush the system but hopefully this will help you understand why it is needed. As with all the services performed you really need to understand that by doing these services these cars will never die and failed parts are fairly rare. Rich

What are you looking for exactly? I have a parts ls400 in my yard. The suspension is complete. Wheels are good what intake parts are you looking for give me a list I'll see what I can do. Rich

Pressure test your cooling system see if it looses pressure in the test. If it does you more then likely have a heater core leak. if not the doors in the heater box might not be closing properly causing the problem. The cooling system test is fast and easy. Ii always look at the easy checks forst they are usually correct. Good luck.

Chil: I'd like to suggest that you completely read the thread that I listed AND search AND fully read any other P/S thread hits that you get. There is an astronomical amount of good information on this website on the subject of P/S leaks, resultant failures and the cure(s). I'm one of the posters in some of these threads, but there's probably at least 10 other guys that know as much, if not (a whole bunch) more than I do on this subject. Once you've read it, you'll be exceptionally well armed to tackle and solve your problem. It will be a great investment of your time. If your were to take your car to an Indie, you'd be lucky if 50% of them could properly diagnose and solve your problem. If you were to take your car to a Stealer, they'd fix it, but you will still be making payments on the repairs 3 years from now. Arm yourself with knowledge and you'll protect yourself from those who would otherwise take advantage of you. B) that's become my mantra. after the mechanic quoted $5000 to fix the car, and did not list anything wrong with the p/s system whatsoever i'm quite glad I found this place. he did mention the heater control valve was leaking coolant and that was one of the things i was going to have him fix, could he be confused, or is that another issue entirely that is likely also present? i figured it must have been the oil given the circumstances, i guess the p/s needs some lovin' too. thanks for the help, an active owners group with lots of great info is what allowed me to overlook the fact I was driving a Taurus.

I know this sounds funny but you can try crawling into the trunk with a flashlight have someone you trust to let you out close the lid spray with a hose look for the leak. the trunk seal may be needed or you may find some debris distorting the seal causing the water to pool and leak past the seal. If you are inside you can pinpoint the leak location then look for cause. Good luck Rich

I rec'd a 1991 Lexus from my mom The car is wonderful then I got in a fender bender. I was looking for parts and a buddy told me about this site. I joined looking for information about Lexus's and parts. It seems they are hard to come by in looking through the site I adswered a few querstions and genreally enjoy viewing the site. I ended up pruchasing a cpmlete running LS400 for parts to repair my exisitng car and will be doing repairs soon. I then figure to part out the rest of the car and hopefully break even or come close and hopefully help someone else who needs parts I do not. Rich

High I was looking at your post and wondering If you fixed your problem yet. I am dismantling a ls400 and have a working speedo if you find you need it. I actually have the complete running car.If I can help let me know. Good Luck Rich Blanchard

I have to agree with SRK that is is probably something simple, but the trouble is finding some mechanic who has the brains to diagnose a complicated problem like that. So many I have dealt with just take the easy step and just replace the entire unit rather than read the instructions. I call them "plug and pay" mechanics! (The trans ECU will put out an error code if it detects a malfunctioning solenoid, so if you have a blinking engine check light then they are the reason, the code will tell you which one) My 92 manual says the most likely cause of no drive in forward or reverse is 1) Throttle cable - you say it purrs (idles??), but does it respond to the throttle? I assume yes. 2) Transmission control rod - unlikey as it would have been in drive at the time it may have come apart, but maybe it springs to a neutral position (doubtful). Still an easy check to see if the selector rod is connected between the gear selector stick and the transmission. Unfortunately I don't have the A340, A341E transmission repair manual to tell you about these others. 3) Manual Valve 4) Parking lock pawl If these check out OK then the next likely culprits are 5) OD one way clutch 6) OD brake 7) OD direct clutch 8) OD planetarygear unit 9) Torque converter Good luck.

You did not say what cde was present. based on what you are saying it appears to be a electronic problem. the throttle body does not know if the a/c is on or not. holding your idle up is trying to cool the engine (by raising the rpm pulling more air into the engine compartment)_ or maybe trying to adiust the idle for accessories thet drag down engine idle. I would not consider a throttle body without first getting the code and checking electronis controls.

I listened to your Problem on dieseling it could be that the fuel is old or to low an octane. this is a very easy fix try running a good brand of premium in the engine. If the egr valve is the problem you will be running lean due to a vacum leak it creates. You could pull your spark plugs and see if there are any clyinders runing different than the others. if they are all burning evenly keep it simple start with fuel then engine timing... If plugs are gaped incorrectly it could be enough to change timing. I just pulled plugs from a van I bought it was running fine unless it was wet or cold. the gaps were so large it effected the engine running. I changed the plugs it now statrts and runs gereat in any weather. I always try to look at the simplest solutions first then go from there 9 out of 10 times simple fixes problems. try fuel check plugs see what you find. Good luck.

I have a 1991 LS400 that has just over 110k on it I had a accident taking out cosmetics on the front end. I am wondering about repairing it on my own and leaving the painting to pros. I took out the hood grille and front bumper. Parts are extremely hard to come by and I live in the Chicago area. I was thinking about buying an entire car for parts as I also have some unseen parts damaged. Is there a market I could then sell the rest of the car or strip it for parts others could use? When looking at e-bay I do not see alot of parts selling. When looking for used parts there are not many available in the Chicago area. Also how hard is it to pull bumper headlight assemblies and the like. Also is there a good paint shop that could do the Pearl White paint for the bumper and hood???