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Posted

The plan....

  • front struts
  • front sway bar links
  • rear struts
  • rear sway bar links
  • rear sway bar bushings

Completed....

  • front struts
  • front sway bar links
  • rear struts

And, why not the rear sway bar links & bushings you may ask !

While under the car, removing the brackets to the rear sway bar bushings, the entire sway bar fell out.....it had broken through completely in the drivers sides bushing/bracket.

and, it had been broken for awhile because both sides of the break were thoroughly RUSTED.

 

Now, to find a rear sway bar/stabilizer bar/anti-sway bar.

Used - ebay - salvage yard

New -dealer -looks like no one else has new sway bars

swaybar1.jpg

swaybar2.jpg


Posted

I wonder if you could get it welded with a sleeve to further strengthen it albeit a spring steel which may still fracture elsewhere but would work in the interim

Posted

Also, if could get someone in a western state like California or Arizona get one from a scrapyard and ship it to you, that should save you money.

  • Like 1
Posted
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Yes, I'm hunting down used options.

 

Does anyone know what the difference between a light green and an orange sway bar indicate?

 

Looks like the stock FWD (with just a sunroof) calls for the light green sway bar which is 16MM.  Part Number: 48812-48060

 

And, the models that have the moon roofs with multi panels of glass use the orange sway bar, which I believe is 17MM.  Part Number: 48812-48070

  • Like 1
Posted

Perhaps the bigger sway bar is for vehicles with a towing package? A Lexus parts counter person may know.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I found a sway bar on Ebay, in Texas (rust-free).....[16MM.  Part Number: 48812-48060], and, less than 1/2 price of a new one.

After installing the sway bar and new sway bar links, I took a few test drives and continued to hear a slight humm from the rear.   I wasn't sure if it was tire noise due to needing an alignment or possible rear wheel bearing.

I removed the LH rear caliper & rotor and gave the hub a spin.   I could hear the ever so low tone of the bad bearing.  I ordered and replaced both rear wheel hubs/bearings.

This ranks with one of the worst mechanical maintenance chores I can remember !!

Of course, the wheel hubs were frozen/rusted into the knuckles and dust shields.  After unbolting the hubs I used my Thor hammer and removed them from the knuckles, but, they were both still stuck/rusted into the dust shields.

I removed all the emergency brake components (shoes, springs, pins, adjusters) and then took the hub & dust shields to the workbench.   I used a bolt & nut/washers to make a press between the hub and dust shield.  But, the 3/8 bolt & nut I used only lasted a few turns before stripping.

Off to the hardware store, I purchased a #8 grade bolt & nut, then I used an old 1/4" drive socket as another spacer against the dust shields.   I also knocked out all the lug studs, I didn't have to but it felt good!

I used the #8 bolt/nut/washers/socket to press the hubs out of the dust shields. 

I put the bolt/nut/washers into one of the lug studs holes and would place the 1/4 socket against the dust shield and tighten the bolt/nut, then, I would loosen and rotate the rub move the nut/bolt/washers/socket to an alternate position....I generally used 3 different points (like a triangle) and pressed the hubs out of the dust shields.

If you notice the 1/4" socket in the photo, it is pretty much destroyed from the pressure/stress.  The #8 bolt/nut held up but certainly took a beating.

Yes, the hum noise is now gone and the ride does feel much better.

 

 

RX350_rear_bearings.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Wow! Now that's a project I would probably not try, myself - too much rust!
I'll bet you feel good, now that it's over. 😏

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