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I have a 2006 Lexus rx330. I bought the car used. When it was originally purchased the automatic button on the interior of the car and the auto button on the key would not open or close the rear hatch. The button in the glove box is in the right position. I lifted the rear hatch manually about 3ins while holding the button on my keys and that didn’t work but now the rear hatch will go down automatically with both the key and the interior button. It still will not open though. It makes the two warning beeps, the latch opening noise  and a whirling noise and opens about half an in before shutting and clicking again. Is anyone familiar with this problem. If it’s the struts that would be a lot cheaper than having to replace the motor. I look forward to any advice you have on this.

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It looks like the door is sensing some kind or resistance. Sometimes during warmer months, our door will emit a couple of beeps while it attempts to open, then closes.

It seems like two possible conditions cause this reluctance to open:

1. The door gaskets are soft and sticky. I applied seal lubricant or ArmorAll to the seals and this seems to help.
2. Something is interfering with the door. The net that came with our RX will sometimes slide under the door and jam it.

You might want to check for similar causes.

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Thank you I will check the gaskets. What net are you referring to in the RX? I keep the boot cover held back most of the times is that the net? Sorry I only got this car two days ago. 

E7FDEB74-00C1-4DFC-8A98-E62DE064F4E0.png

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The net keeps groceries and other types of packages from moving around in the hatch area. I believe it was part of a trim package. There is a loop at each side of the net (left and right) that is placed onto a hook on each side of the hatch area.

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19 minutes ago, RX400h said:

The net keeps groceries and other types of packages from moving around in the hatch area. I believe it was part of a trim package. There is a loop at each side of the net (left and right) that is placed onto a hook on each side of the hatch area.

Okay yeah I don’t have a net. So it can’t be that. I will try the lube on the gasket. Thank you. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/18/2021 at 7:22 PM, RX400h said:

It looks like the door is sensing some kind or resistance. Sometimes during warmer months, our door will emit a couple of beeps while it attempts to open, then closes.

It seems like two possible conditions cause this reluctance to open:

1. The door gaskets are soft and sticky. I applied seal lubricant or ArmorAll to the seals and this seems to help.
2. Something is interfering with the door. The net that came with our RX will sometimes slide under the door and jam it.

You might want to check for similar causes.

It definitely is sensing some resistance I wiped down the gaskets with no luck. I don’t have a cargo net either. Where is the sensor on the boot hatch? I am wondering if there is a way to wipe that down too? 

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This may help:

2004-2009 Lexus RX 330/350/450 rear cargo door switch repair - Bing video

If there is power to the motor and the sensor is okay, here is a video about replacing the rear hatch motor:

Fixing the Power Rear Door on a Lexus RX 330 and RX 350 - Bing video

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Do you have the part number for the sensor or know where it is? I can not read the diagram well enough to understand where the sensor is.

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  • 2 months later...

Hello, I had the  exact same problem with my '05 RX330. It turned out to be the lift motor for the liftgate.

It was strong enough to bring it down, but not strong enough to lift it up.

I bought a used one off Ebay from a seller overseas, and it worked Great. It's not hard to replace for an experienced Tech. The cost for the used unit was $125, and I still have the old one for parts if ever needed. 

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14 hours ago, Cfh3 said:

Hello, I had the  exact same problem with my '05 RX330. It turned out to be the lift motor for the liftgate.

It was strong enough to bring it down, but not strong enough to lift it up.

I bought a used one off Ebay from a seller overseas, and it worked Great. It's not hard to replace for an experienced Tech. The cost for the used unit was $125, and I still have the old one for parts if ever needed. 

How old is the used one? Did you price new ones?

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The used liftgate actuator motor was $125 USD and a New motor from Lexus/Toyota was close to $400!!.

This Actuator Motor fits numerous vehicles made throughout the world, not just Lexus/Toyota. Using the original part number and a Part # Cross Reference Interchange List, you have the ability to see what other part numbers interchange with the Lexus/Toyota part number. All Salvage yards use this method to source out used parts. For most people that are not in the Auto repair sector, this method of finding parts for their car is not a readily available option. 

Being Retired and having more time than $$$, this method works well for me!!    Good Luck

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Thanks, Chuck. So it is not known how old the used motor is? I would assume that if the used motor had a similar history of actuations its lifespan may not be much longer. That's certainly the gamble one takes when buying used with no history of this information.

Many years ago when I had a 1968 Mercury Cougar, its oil pump failed, causing the engine to self-destruct. I had a used engine installed but it lasted only another 2 years at most. At the time, the car was worth only $300, so in retrospect I should've scrapped it and moved on.

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RX400h, You make a valid point, but there are certain Used parts that shouldn't be used, like High Wear items such as internal engine parts, bearings, brake pads and rotors, clutch parts, water pumps, hoses other high wear items with a predictable lifespan. High dollar used items like engines, transmissions and rear ends and other used parts will always have a market because of the cost of the New Part. Many Used parts sold and installed, last quite a long time, saving their owners $$$ and keeping vehicles out of salvage yards. In my case, I don't believe the Liftgate motor is a "High Wear" item, and for me it was worth taking the risk on a used part. I'm mechanically handy, I could change the part myself if bad and not have to pay somebody else to do it. 

PS, a Spotweld broke on the original Actuator Assy, and I didn't see it until after I installed the used one.     The headliner has to be pulled down to replace, so I wanted to have a replacement ready to put back in and put the headliner back.   As Always- Buyer Beware 

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Yes, we must weigh the risks. During one period in my working career I designed brake rotors with the assistance of an investment casting expert. The owner of the company kept referring to vehicle miles as a way to compare brake rotor wear. As we know, wear of brake rotors and pads has much more to do with rotor and pad materials, as well as the frequency and duration of activation versus the number of miles on the odometer.

 A rear door actuator life would also be dependent on its number of actuations - something you would most likely never know unless you personally knew the owner of the vehicle in which the used actuator was installed.

 The silver lining is that the motor will probably not have to last another 16 years. 🙂

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  • 11 months later...

Hello everyone,

  Please i need help on my RX400h the hatch responds to the button from the inside and the remote but it doesn't respond from the back. Even at that i will have to lift it with my hands once i used the remote because it will automatically shut itself when i used the remote to open it. can anyone clarify me on what the issues could be. To add up when i open the hatch manually and wanted to close it the close button does not make any beep sound neither does it work i will have top close manually too

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At times, our hatch does the same when using the remote - rises an inch then shuts. I suspect that I will need to replace the motor at some point. It is working just fine at this time, fortunately.

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wow that sounds great, i wish mine too could get back to working normal but it still the same, i suspect the hatch control at the back because it doesn't respond at all maybe it got spoil in the close state.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Has it been very hot out? I suspect that the rubber seals can get a bit sticky when very hot. Have you tried wiping a silicone lubricant on those gaskets?

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  • 2 months later...

Hi. Just wondering, specifically why does the motor start to fail anyway. What is it that actually causes it to no longer have the power to lift the hatch? I would have thought that, assuming enough electricity is being supplied, electric motors in general do not 'wear out' as many mechanical items do as internally they generate very little 'dirt' or debris and rely on the physics of electrons and electromagnetism. Does the permanent magnet itsself degrade? More to the point can they be refurbished at all as a DIY job. My old RX400h has the usual rear hatch struggles.

Any answers appreciated.

Tim

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