Hello everyone! I’m pretty new here, and before I ask my question, yes I’ve been throughout forums seeking answers and have tried a few things but now I feel as though I need advice.
Recently grabbed a ‘93 LS400 that’s been misfiring. I just had the alternator and belt tensioner replaced but the car did stall out on me due to very rough and low idle. Check engine code comes up for the mass air flow sensor and TPS, both of which were replaced and recently adjusted by my mechanic. I had heard that if the catalytic converters were glowing red that means that they were possibly clogged, possibly oil in the cylinders leaking(?). I’m not sure, I’m fairly new to these vehicles in general.
One thing to keep note of is, the check engine light is illuminated. When I give the car gas it shows major power loss, however halfway thru second gear the car starts to pickup/ maintain speed and the check engine light goes away. Once I come to a stop, or even let off the gas for a bit the CEL comes back. Complete stop brings the rough idle back. I did read that the ignition coils could be to blame as well. I changed the one dead center in the engine, but not the second one by the battery.
My question is should I be weary of the cats? My plan was the yank them and simply straight pipe the car on back. However efficiency is all I want now considering I haven’t had time to even enjoy the car since I purchased it 😟
Lexus ES300 1998
Dear forum members,
I am a student and always looking for cheaper options for my car repairs.
2 months ago my engine light came on and my mechanic thought it was the EGR valve and the selenoid, so he insisted on replacing them, which we did. The engine check light came back on a week later, just before i thought i will pass the NYS inspection (still can't pass it).
I took the car to another mechanic, who diagnosed it with faulty spark plugs and replaced them free of charge if the light comes back on, well it did reappear the next day after 20 mile drive. After he took them out - the new spark plugs were completely burned, so he immediately pointed the problem towards the catalytic converter.
His price for the part and labor is $500, and only Lexus made (as per mechanic). Gave me a small lecture that without a new cat converter- it will damage the new EGR and selenoid along with the spark plugs.
1. Can i bypass the dealer parts and use much less expensive cat converter ?
2. Can the new cat converter be installed via smoldering (so i don't have to replace the whole exhaust )?
Thank you for any input.
So, the other day I was driving along fine when I came to a stop light, take off as normal and my car instantly bogged down and would not accelerate as normal.I got it back home (1/2 mile away) and put it in park .
It idles a little rough but the biggest thing is that (in park) when I step on the gas it goes up to 3000rom and then automatically drops down to around (fluctuating) 2000rpm.
While driving it, it crawls up to speed VERY slowly.
I took it down the street to have a car shop look at it and the guy took it around the block. He said that he was 90% sure it was the catalytic converter.
Since I only paid $1500 for it and it has body damage I don't want to sink TOO much into getting running (already put $2000 into it).
This is on a 1992 Lexus SC400 4.0L 1UZ-FE (Stock)
So here are the symptoms:
-Loss of Power/ Slow acceleration
-gas smell from exhaust on both ends
-exhaust pipe directly after catalytic converter on passenger side reaches almost 300F (catalytic converter ~ 170F at normal operating temp)
-engine does not overheat
So here is what I have done after the problem happened:
-check ALL fluid levels (they are good)
-replaced ALL spark plugs and wires
-sprayed bolt loosener on back bolts of the catalytic converter that was over heating near pipe
-Put up on stands to get under the car
-Checked the temperature of the entire exhaust system running from manifolds to tail pipe
I have looked and it seems like it is a pretty hard job to get those catalytic converters off.
Any help would be appreciated