Hey there everyone i have a few questions on the abs pump/ Brake Booster / Accumulator squeakbafter pump engages. From what i understand this is a fairly common issue with this pump/ master cylinder. I dont actually have a Gs300 so mine may be slightly different (crownmajesta). What im wondering ia if there is anyway to even temp fix this issue as i need to have a vehicle inspection and they failed it previously due to the brake warning indicator light coming on. Even if anyone knows of a way to avoid having the light come on so i can deal with this issue at a later date. They failed it based on the indicator light alonebas the inspection check sheet says the hydraulic system passed and all other braking components passed. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Please point my in the right direction if i have misposted this.
By D Eric
Curious how many Lexus owners have had a brake actuator failure. We have a 2013 RX350; we bought a new RX450, and parked the 350 over the holidays planning to sell. When I started it, numerous warning lights came on: the "Check AWD System" light, the engine light, and the VSC and Traction Control System lights. Upon taking the vehicle to our dealer, were we told that the brake actuator assembly needed to be replaced. The cost to do so was $3,855.12. I found there was a NHTSA recall on 2/12/2014 for this issue, requiring a software upgrade to avoid the failure of the brake actuator. The dealer advises that software was updated in 2015 - which obviously didn't work because the brake actuator still failed. Lexus is refusing to cover this, even though the predicted failure occurred anyway. If anyone else has experienced this, please let me know. I am preparing litigation on this issue.
I drive down a hill on a regular basis, a highway off ramp, with a stop sign at the bottom. As I brake I can see the power created by monitoring the kilowatt gauge, the needle dives into the blue showing the results of regenerative braking. After about 4 car lengths the needle returns to zero even though I continue braking for many more car lengths. I can feel the reduction in braking when regenerative braking disengages and compensate by pressing on the brakes a little harder. Meantime I am monitoring the traction battery graphics, the one that show how fully charged the battery is, and it show the battery is 3 or 4 bars below full. So if the traction battery is not full why is the Regen braking disenging so quickly? If I release the brakes for an instant a Mb d then apply them I can get the kilowatt Gage to dive into the blue again, and I can repeat this several times but with each cycle the amount the needle dives is less as is the duration. The car is not throwing any codes. As for fuel mileage, it's close to what it should be but I think it is slighty low, but it is hard to say for sure. My sense is it is lower by approximately 1mpg. If the regenerative braking would stay engaged for the duration of the hill this would go a long way toward topping up the traction battery. The only thing I can think of is the graphics are lagging behind the actually state of the battery. And I should mention I cannot remember the last time I saw the traction battery full.
Need some technical help on the hydraulic booster. Getting error codes C0226, C0236 and C0246. Anyone ecounter these before?
My 2003 GS430 with 220k on it!!! developed a spongy brake pedal very similar to what you feel when your master cylinder goes out. I had read up on it and have the service manuals but decided to take it in case there were other things I should fix while I'm at it. I used my OBDII and didn't get any codes which is weird as the brakes were definitely a problem and a bit scary as you weren't sure if you were going to stop.
The repair shop discovered the codes, not sure why my OBDII wasn't picking them up but it reads as if there are shorts / opens in the electrical. The compressor was making noise when I had the hood open indicating that it was trying to pressurize the system but it would shut off and then start running again repeat. So I was pretty sure this was the master cylinder seals were allowing fluid to pass through.
I can get the master cylinder from lexus in GA for $60 with 4day shipping, my lexus dealer can get it in a day for $90. BTW, the lexus dealer said the master cylinders are on the discontinued list. But the whole system can run anywhere from 1k to 2k so its pricy and not sure if I need the whole thing, especially with 220k on the clock (oil leaks and a few minor things to replace but still pretty good shape.
I'm waiting on the shop to get back to me as they wanted a couple of days to troubleshoot the problem and they know I don't want to spend 1k on a part. I can use the money on the suspension and oil leak ;-)) So hoping that someone can provide some insight on this. From what I read they last the life of the car and I don't think mine is on its last legs....
Paul email@example.com direct