Antenna

[davetruong]

I was wondering why does the antenna go up only about 4 inches when I'm using the CD player. Shouldnt it just go down all the way since the CD doesnt need to have the antenna up.

[Badams]

99 LX 470 with the radio on about 3 feet. With the cd player on not at all.

[EnDLesS]

Good question on the antenna, i think on the lx450 thats the way it is same as mine, in the beginning it bothered me alots until now sometimes when i turn on Cd still like that.. but anyways.. i think thats the way it is how they set up from the factory, not on the 470 i guess....

[jsmith8918]

A week ago, the antenna on my '97 LX450 went up about three feet for radio and fully retracted when CD selected. Then just today it started only going up about two feet for radio, but still fully retracts for CD. I can here it grinding to go up higher for radio so I assume some of the plastic teeth on the flexible shaft inside the antenna are chewed off which keeps it from fully extending.

[dougjohn]

A week ago, the antenna on my '97 LX450 went up about three feet for radio and fully retracted when CD selected. Then just today it started only going up about two feet for radio, but still fully retracts for CD. I can here it grinding to go up higher for radio so I assume some of the plastic teeth on the flexible shaft inside the antenna are chewed off which keeps it from fully extending.

Your antenna is about to die.

Well, not necessarily die, but it will likely break soon. Had it happen to mine a few months back. It's not too difficult to fix yourself (or you can spend a couple hundred to have the dealer fix it).

I can dig up instructions on the fix if you're interested in a DIY solution.

[nelson]

I am interested in the DIY solution. My antenna on my LX-450 is about to die, and I already have the replacement part from Toyota.

[newB]

A week ago, the antenna on my '97 LX450 went up about three feet for radio and fully retracted when CD selected. Then just today it started only going up about two feet for radio, but still fully retracts for CD. I can here it grinding to go up higher for radio so I assume some of the plastic teeth on the flexible shaft inside the antenna are chewed off which keeps it from fully extending.

Your antenna is about to die.

Well, not necessarily die, but it will likely break soon. Had it happen to mine a few months back. It's not too difficult to fix yourself (or you can spend a couple hundred to have the dealer fix it).

I can dig up instructions on the fix if you're interested in a DIY solution.

Dougjohn, as a newbie I would certainly be interested in your instruction set...esp. fixing one if you don't have to buy a new one!

[jsmith8918]

Ditto on wanting to see DIY instructions. It looks like eBay has a ton of aftermarket retractable antennas for about $30 that they claim are satisfactory as direct replacements for the expensive Lexus units. Anyone try one of these yet?

[dougjohn]

Sorry for the delay in getting this info to you. Had a bunch of stuff going on lately. Here's the instructions I have for DIY on the antenna (obtained from another list); it's a combination of several responses on the topic of the antenna fix. Hope you find this useful:

-----Original Message----

FYI, I had to the 'oh you poor guy' procedure below on a co-worker's 100 series (LX-470) last week. It's actually much easier than doing it on the 80 series. This is because you go up through the fender well to get

to the antenna motor.

Here's what I did:

1. Remove the little plastic clips (there must be a dozen of them) that hold the plastic inner fender in place. The 3 torx screws that hold the plastic fender to the body cladding do NOT need to be removed.

2. bend inner plastic fender back so you can get to the antenna motor

3. remove the single 10mm bolt that holds the motor in place

4. remove top nut that secures top of antenna to body

5. remove screws that hold cover on antenna motor-watch the nut on throne in the center, don't lose that! (it's the only one w/a nut)

6. Enjoy #6 :-)

7. remove cover, extract remains of plastic cable.

8. reassemble in reverse order.

-----Original Message-----

Subject: RE: [80] Power antenna broke today...

If the white gear strip comes out, all you need is part 1. If not, go to the "Oh, You Poor Guy" section. I just did this procedure this past weekend. Painful, but it can be done.

------------------------------------------------------

Part 1

======

I know there was a thread on how to repair the automatic antenna on the 80's. Can someone point me to it, please?

I was going to post the message number you could refer to, but the search would take longer than typing this.

Spin the ring off the antenna. The one with the notches at the base. Pull out the old antenna. Turn the radio on so the antenna would fully extend. Now tell the antenna to fully extend with the dash button.

Put the nylon gear strip into the opening and have someone push the down antenna button on the dash. After it engages, screw the ring back down.

Oh, you poor guy

================

Anyway, I took the advice on how to fix it, but when I pulled out the antenna I discovered that the strip gear was nowhere to be found. It wasn't attached to the antenna. So I have to get a new antenna and someone with triple-jointed arms to install it.

Oh, you poor guy. That's what I had to do when I replaced mine, and it is a pain in the proverbial butt. Here's what to do:

- inside the engine bay, PS of the truck, you can see a cutout in the fender wall. There's a small heat sink type item covering it that has to be removed for access.

- then you remove a single bolt from the fender wall that holds the antenna motor assembly in place. The motor CANNOT DROP TOO FAR, because of the wire connecting it to the radio, so don't worry about it at this point. If you drop it, you just have to start over. ;-)

- the motor CAN come through that hole once you hold your mouth just right and certain planets align (read - it ain't easy to find the right angles).

- once you can remove the circular cover where the nylon gear'd assembly spins up (three screws, I think, but the radio wire keeps you working near the fender) you can easily pull the broken gear out.

- put the cover back on, put the motor back into the fender and bolt it back into place (putting the little ring onto the top helps hold it in place while you do the fender bolt).

- replace the heat sink thingie.

- put the new mast in as previously discussed.

Good luck.

-----Original Message-----

Here's what needs to be done.

If you've been driving the truck before starting this, this area gets very hot. I have the utmost respect for people like Brad and Norm who can get in there and work without burning themselves too much.

The factory manual says you need to disconnect the antenna lead from the back of the radio. (NOT) I've done this repair several times in my shop and it is NOT necessary... you won't have a great deal of working room, but you will have enough (Just).

My truck has something that looks like a big heat sink

bolted directly in front of the hole you have to remove the antenna motor through. Unbolt it and hang it down under the hole. I also found it convenient to pop the plastic cover off whatever that is between the air filter and fender.

Here's what you do: Remove the spanner type beauty nut on the outside of the fender; inside the right fender you will 'see' one of the nuts and can easily get it off... the other one is buried back in the fender, but it also CAN be reached.

The "beauty nut" (B-nut) is the one at the base of the antenna. I used a snap ring pliers to turn it using a couple of the indentions. I then removed the plastic trim piece below the B-nut and put the B-nut back on. I then tied a string around the bottom of the B-nut for use later on.

I didn't have any nuts on the inside of the fender, so this must have changed at some point. I had one bolt, located below the hole you eventually have to pull the motor out of. Remove it and the motor assembly is likely to drop into the fender. This is the first good use for the string above.

You must then pull / rotate / manipulate the antenna out of the opening in the fender well.

This short sentence should probably have been written in UPPER CASE, cause it's a royal pain. I found it best if you disconnect the two electrical connections sticking out of the hole. They are different shape, so you won't confuse them later.

After that you just have to wriggle the motor mostly out. I think there is exactly one way to do it. My best description would be to put the mounting bracket "nut" the bottom bolt screwed into at the top of the hole you're going to come out of. Take as much of the bottom of the motor out and semi-force the top (the bracket I mentioned will be the sticking point) through the hole as best you can. The antenna sticks in where the Christo-relocated washer bottle used to sit.

Once you have the unit out where you can work with it you will see three small bolts that must be removed to open the cover of the unit.

This was a big difference, or I did a lot I didn't need to do. I removed 6 bolts (actually, 4 screws and 2 bolts), one of which went through to the other side (the one in the middle) and the nut will drop off when you unscrew it, If you're lucky, it wont hide somewhere you can't find it.

All these bolts/screws are philips head, so an electric screwdriver is very nice. You can now pry the cover off. Mine has what appeared to be the goo they seal windows with sealing it up. Make sure you wipe that sticky stuff off the insides of the motor and restore the lubricant that's in there.

Probably will need to use needle nose pliers to unwind the remaining cable from the drum.

Another difference. My motor had an unattached drum to hold the cable. I took it out, slipped the old cable out and slipped it back in position for reassembly.

Here's the important part!! Re-assemble the unit and re-mount it back into the fender. DO NOT PUT THE MAST INTO THE MOTOR AT THIS TIME!!

Mounting back in the fender isn't that easy. First you have to reconnect the wires I suggested disconnecting earlier. Then you have to get back through that obnoxious little hole. When you do, the motor will try to drop into the fender again. This is the second time the string you tied on will be a big help. With one hand in the hole and the other pulling the string, get the motor in position and hold it with the hand in the fender. With the other hand, take the B-nut off, put the plastic trim piece back on and thread the B-nut on enough to hold the motor from falling in. This is not easy with only one hand.

Once that's done you can tighten it up snug to align for the bolt below the hole. This bolt is flimsy aluminum so be sure not to over tighten it like I did or it will strip. Once the bolt is in, take the B-nut back off to begin mast installation.

Have a helper (wife / significant other / child / neighbor / friend) turn on the power and extend the antenna (yes, I know there's nothing in there yet)... but have them hold the up button until the thing quits trying to extend on it's own... Now you push the nylon gear whip into the actuator until it engages, have your helper push the down button whilst you feed the mast into the motor. Don't worry if it stops short of going all the way down for now. Put the spanner nut onto the motor assembly and tighten it down. Now extend the antenna (it's at this point we are going to 'time' the mast). Hold the button until it stops on its own (the motor running, not the mast) Now push the down button and hold until the motor stops on it's own (you will hear it start to "ratchet" that's the only way I can describe it). This procedure of running the mast up and down a couple of times will eventually time the mast to extend all the way and retract all the way...

I didn't have any problems here, but it's the same procedure I've had to use to replace the mast on my wife's Infiniti the two times she has broken it (once not retracting it in a car wash, once backing out of the garage before the door was high enough). Everyone should hope they break the mast before the nylon cable breaks - it's much easier!!!

Two people really are needed, and it's very nice to have the antenna up/down button instead of just the radio on/off switch like hers does.

[newB]

Dougjohn-- Thanks for posting the instruction set!

Just a clarifying question here--if the antenna motor is whirring at power-off/on but the mast is not moving, does this indicate the need to purchase a new nylon tooth strip for the antenna, or is there such thing as it being mere "misaligned"?

It would be useful for me to know whether I need to purchase this in advance BEFORE all the planet alignment process necessary for motor removal!

Thanks again!!

[dougjohn]

I've never heard of the stip coming off track or being misaligned, but I suppose it could happen. Most all cases seem to be the result of broken teeth/gears.

[newB]

I've never heard of the stip coming off track or being misaligned, but I suppose it could happen. Most all cases seem to be the result of broken teeth/gears.

Thanks for the clarification--I ordered the toothed strip today--wow, $23 for that little bugger. I'll attempt the install within the next couple of weekends, time willing...

-newB

[jsmith8918]

Thanks, everyone, for all of the helpful information on how to do an antenna replacement. I replaced mine yesterday. I had the "O, you poor guy" scenario. I pulled out the mast and it only had about three inches of the plastic toothed cable on the end (rather than the several feet of cable that I was hoping would have been there).

Here's what I did on my '97 LX 450:

Took off beauty ring.

Had wife extend antenna using button on dash while I pulled up and out. If it doesn't come all the way out, it could be because the widest metal tube on the bottom of the antenna is intended to stay inside the rest of the motor/shaft assembly for electronic grounding purposes. Sometimes this rusts in place. The replacement antenna that I bought said that, in these situations, you may need to apply a penetrating oil solvent to this area and allow to work overnight. I didn't have that problem because mine came right out with just a slight pull and a little wiggling.

Seeing only three inches of toothed cable, I knew the rest had broken off and was inside the motor housing requiring me to activate the O-you-poor-guy scenario.

Open hood. Locate general area. Notice heatsink thingy. Remove heatsink (12mm bolt).

Notice one 10mm bolt holding antenna motor housing assembly (located just below the small access area/opening in the fenderwell). Remove that 10mm bolt. Don't worry about antenna dropping into unaccessible parts. It will drop, but you'll easily be able to pull it up again by any of numerous wires.

Here's one part I did different at this point that I thought helped. Look into hole in fender that antenna mast had come through. Use a flashlight. If your is like mine, you may notice a white plastic zip tie securing the antenna cable up near the top of the mast. Cut the zip tie (NOT THE ANTENNA CABLE). This little step gave me just a little more maneuverability when it came down to getting the motor housing in position to pull through the hole in the enging compartment.

OK, now the tricky part. While standing near the front passenger side wheel, reach through that access area in the engine compartment with your right hand and feel around in there. Explore what you've got to work with and where your motor/shaft assembly is sitting. Not much room, huh? And you probably realize that opening is way smaller than it should be. Now manuever your motor/shaft assembly so that the shaft end comes up and over and into the area towards the rear of the vehicle. You should end up pointing the end of the shaft to the rear of the vehicle with the motor housing end close to the opening through which you're reaching.

I found it easier at this point to disconnect the two electric wiring quick-clips. (Mine were pretty gummy and took some effort to disconnect.) I don't suppose this part is mandatory, but I found it freed up some very-much-needed wiggle room to get that housing through that hole!

A little wiggle, a little pulling, a little rotating... and there it is! You should be able to pull the motor assembly through the hole. It will (hopefully) still be tethered from the inside by the antenna cable so it won't come all the way out.

Remove the screws holding the two halves of the housing together (including the screw right in the center). Even after the screws were out, these halves did NOT want to separate for me. They were held tightly together by just about the gummiest substance I've ever dealt with other than Liquid Nails! Just keep at it.

Once I got the halves apart, I found the rest of my toothed antenna cable wound inside the housing. Removed cable. Halves back together. Screws back in place. Assembly back in the hole. Beauty nut attached loosely to hold it in place. Replace 10mm bolt. Replace heatsink and 12mm nut. Get a friend.

Now you've completed the O-you-poor-guy part. If you were lucky and had the whole cable on the end of your antenna when you took it out, you could have jumped right to this part. Alas, not everyone can be so lucky.

Mentally note position of motor in relation to shaft inside that area. The motor is positioned on the shaft towards the rear of the vehicle, or on the rear-facing side of the shaft. You need to thread the toothed strip into the opening with the teeth facing toward the rear of the vehicle. Get a helper inside with you holding antenna outside. Have helper turn on radio. Listen to motor. Then turn off. As motor activates, feed plastic toothed strip down into shaft until it engages. Then turn radio on and off several times to allow it to calibrate itself. Then tighten beauty ring, but not too tight or, like mine, it may interfere with antenna's ability to fully extend.

Sit back and be satisfied. You're done.

[dougjohn2]

Thanks, everyone, for all of the helpful information on how to do an antenna...

Sit back and be satisfied. You're done.

←

Glad you got to it. Very nice write up as well. I was lucky enough to still have my extended warranty when my antenna cable broke...sounds like the job is a major pain...especially for me since I have forearms the size of most people's calves.

[eleypon]

I have purchased aftermarket antennas from ebay and they have worked great. Saved almost 50% from retail.