auctionjunky Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Hello, this is a 1996 LS400 with 220k miles. I bought it in LA at an auction, so I dont have the repair history. It should be noted that it's usually over 100 degrees this time of year in Vegas, and this car was spoiled in 80 degree So Cal weather. After a 120 mile drive, parked it overnight to find the yellow abs light on and the vehicle stuck in park in the morning. The red battery discharge light might be pulled, it doesn't come on. I used the override button to put it into drive and get it back to Las Vegas. 15 miles from home, the battery died. Tried jumping the vehicle, but it wouldn't hold a charge. Pulled the positive terminal and the vehicle wouldn't stay running, indicating bad alternator. Towed it home. Charged battery for 45 minutes, turned it over with all accesories on and the vehicle stayed running, but the abs light is still on, stuck in park. The brake lights work, including the 3rd brake light. Checked all fuses under dash and on driver fender area, no blown fuses. I don't know how to properly check the relays so I left those alone. When I go to put it into gear, I hear clicking from under the steering column, might be the brake switch. Measured voltage with vehicle off, about 12.55, with vehicle on, 12.2. Sounds like the alternator is bad. I don't see any moisture from the power steering pump on top of the alternator. I'll just remove the alternator and have it checked out. My real concern is the abs and stuck in gear issue. Is the alternator or weak battery related to the abs light and stuck in gear issue? And can a defective brake switch still trip the abs light even if the brake lights are functioning as they should? Any help is greatly appreciated, :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datarecovery Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 On my 1992 SC400, the problem of stuck in park also happened. had to remove the Airbag fuse temporarily to allow "normal" function. Turned out to be a bad ecu. I did not have the discharge problem you had. You need to go through the diagnosis procedure to see which circuit is "leaking" voltage. Also check alternator output with a voltmeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exhaustgases Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I think brake light switch controls the park lock solenoid. And likely has something to do with ABS and Trac as well as cruise control. When running, the voltage across the battery terminals should be around 14 some volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auctionjunky Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 thank you both for the great advice. come to think of it, my cruise control is out as well. do you guys think the stuck in park issue be related to the possible bad alternator or are they two separate issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auctionjunky Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 did the circuit test, no drain detected. also had alternator checked at the auto parts store, passed, so the alternator is good. not a drop of fluid on the alternator, looks fairly new, denso reman. i'm leaning towards maybe an ecu issue or cruise control module. or both. should i go after the cruise control module or ecu, first? note: when i connect a diagnostic tool to the service port, it registers, and it reads trouble codes just fine. does that rule the ecu out? This is a head scratcher, when you run across a head scratcher, don't rule out the ignition switch... now I'm all over the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auctionjunky Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 took ecu out today, no capacitor leaks of any kind, the board looks fantastic. next up, checking wiring along left side of trunk lid. if that's a no go, going to check ignition switch / wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auctionjunky Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 wires along trunk look like-new. checked battery at auto parts store, it tested good. cleaned and inspected all connections at alternator and fuse box / battery. ground connections look good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auctionjunky Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 fixed.. timmy.. ra and 381 inspired me to actually pull each fuse instead of relying on the TEST LIGHT ... ecu fuse (driver kick panel fuse box) second row up, 1st fuse to the far left 15a blown... replaced it and all is good. thanks for your input everyone.. i spent like 20 hours on this car because i was convinced it was a major issue that knocked out so many things at one time .. lol.. i spent zero dollars.. just replaced a fuse.. calling lexus to cancel my order for a shift solenoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sha4000 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 The question is why did the fuse blow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sadclown Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 The problem may be caused by a malfunctioning Transmission Shift Solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobby62914 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Once I found the drivers side fuse box this thread was fantastic. I replaced the ECU fuse and my problem was corrected. I also know why the blew the fuse. I am dissatisfied with the reception with the factory power antenna so I decided to install a small high-gain antenna. The antenna needs 12v so I was looking around with a meter for a constant 12v. Never did find 12v. This is my first post but I have used this resource a few times. I bought my first Lexus, a 1997 LS400 with 153,000 miles, a few weeks ago and I am hooked. I can't wait to get a newer one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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