datarecovery

This is a new car to me that I bought with the no start engine. Only 42000 miles since last timing belt change . Here's what I found when I opened it up. Several bolts on water pump housing were loose. Alternator lower bolt was broken. The tensioner pulley was completely broken apart so I don't have any pictures of that . Water pump shaft was bent and water composed inoperative. That's why the coloring on the water pump pulley is shows discoloring from the Heat. Who knows what happened in terms of the sequence.... Anyone ever see this on a Lexus? I've had 10 Lexus before, worked as a mechanic 30 years, and I've never seen this before.

Selling to highest bidder on eBay. I suppose it is appropriate to post here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122659862496?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2648 It has been a good car. Rebuilt ECU according the LSCowboy and Yamae recommended capacitors. Shifts like a dream. New transmission mount and timing belt and water pump done this past week 8/20/17. Leather as seen in pics but I just found an exact car with nicer leather seats also 110K, that I can give you that info if you are interested. If interested in this car please reach me at 781-449-9990. I and the car are located in Sarasota Florida. Always has been a Florida car.

One of the methods that has worked for me is to adjust the Throttle Position Sensor. Too tight and it shuts off air to the engine and oops the engine shuts off. Too open and the car idles too high. Cleaning the throttle body is and has already be recommended. Taking it full off will allow you to do a more thorough cleaning than stuffing screwdrivers and rugs in from the passenger side. I am in Sarasota, if you need help just PM me. Datarecoveryinc

One of the best SC300's you will find. Very low mileage and very much cared for SC 300. It has a stock 2JZ dual overhead cam inline six, (great for reliability & fuel economy) new oil change synthetic, brakes, regular maintenance. Timing belt done at 42,009 Interior is near perfect. Multi Disc CD changer, Automatic Trans, too many options to list, Must sell this week. Has not yet been detailed/ You can reach me at 941-376-8374 https://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/5385561081.html

I usually use RockAuto for my parts because I can find out before what it costs me for shipping and when it will arrive. And they are always earlier than they estimate. So good customer service. Unfortunately, this time they don't carry the kit I need. I look around who else has good prices. CarID and Autoplicity through Amazon. Must be good if coming through Amazon? 140 Tuesday afternoon, I order DAYCO WP298K1AS waterpump and timing belt kit. Might as well get two radiator hoses and valve cover gaskets from Hector. He tells me shipping is free since the order is over $200. Wanted to have it arrive on Thursday. so I pay the extra $27 for 2nd day UPS Air. I repeat the credit card information and confirm with Hector 3X. Total billl is $300+ Get an email at 5pm EST from Sikander Hussain that there is a problem with the credit card number. 1741: I call Hector, he doesn't understand why there is a problem but says he has fixed it. "You guarantee that this is going to get to me Thursday morning, right? Oh yes sir, no problem, I guarantee it!" Me: Please send me a confirmation email with a tracking number, and "you don't mind if I call you tomorrow Hector to make sure that the product is shipped?" "Oh, no sir, if there is a problem I will get in touch with you right away!" Wednesday: No transaction number? 1030. Finally receive email confirmation of order, no tracking information. Order says "3 - 5 days GROUND." Aaaargh. Wt! After I specifically requested and paid for 2nd day air. I call Hector, Joel Montejo, both voicemails do not allow you to leave a voicemail. I speak with Dewey, (tech support) and David - another salesperson who apparently can't help me with Hector's order. 1034: I finally reach Hector and he will get back to me in a few minutes with the resolution to getting it to me via next day air to arrive on Thursday? I write an email to Joel Montejo, cc to Hector that I am frustrated that the order is not arriving on Thursday. I also request my $27 for expedited shipping be refunded. Get an email at 1751 that the order has been shipped. "3 to 5 business days" arrival expected on Monday. Shipping charges are still on there. Wednesday: 1900 I write emails to Sean McWherter - founder and CEO. He's in California. He is on Facebook touting all the new cars he is driving and showing off. Great? How about paying attention to providing good customer service? Thursday 17:00 get an email from Joel Montiejo, sorry. We will refund your shipping. [You better have!] Never heard from Sean, Joel, Hector or the other founder...... they takes your money and runs.... I should have ordered it anywhere but Autoplicity. It should be called DUplicity. That's probably what they meant to call it from the beginning! Friday: 18:30 Waterpump kit arrives via UPS. Shipped from Maryland. Monday the following week: 1830 The hoses and valve cover gaskets arrive No communications from Autoplicity

Did you use the water bottle spray method to diagnose vacuum leaks? Spray all intakes and hoses and any other possible leakage sites that come to mind. That surging is almost always the IACV or a bad ECU. The other thing that I modified in the past was the TPS , my car also had TRACS so it had dual sensors on the intake. Lastly, cleaning the throttle body helped - all the Power Steering fluid sucked through a defective Power Steering Actuator valve had gummed up the throttle plates.

On my 1992 SC400, the problem of stuck in park also happened. had to remove the Airbag fuse temporarily to allow "normal" function. Turned out to be a bad ecu. I did not have the discharge problem you had. You need to go through the diagnosis procedure to see which circuit is "leaking" voltage. Also check alternator output with a voltmeter.

I would not have recognized it except for the L in the middle. wonder if there are any more pictures somewhere?

Thanks for your contribution;this happened after the engine compartment got filled with snow in January from the Northeaster storm - filled twice! why i am frustrated about the car is I took the sparkplug wires off the distributo caps separately while the engine was running and only the wires that are going to the passenger side don't decrease in RPM when disconnected. So 2 and 4 from the passenger side dsitributor and 6 and 8 from the drivers distributor. Replaced the ignition wires with OEM , no difference. have no yet replaced the sparkplugs,though when I removed them they seemed dry, not wet or soaked. So it could be all the injectors are bad or the injectors are not firing. Found some at a junkyard that I plan to replace. Have to check to make sure that power is getting to the injectors. Replaced the ECU with a compatible one, but made no difference in bettering. Also found that the O2 sensor wires got pulled because of contact with the snow heaves and did reconnect but still getting CEL. Will have to check and see what the codes say, if it still reads a bad O2 sensor. I did check the ohms for the drivers coil and that did fail and was replaced, but no difference. Another frustration, while diving alond the Mass Pike two days ago apparently one of the Borla mufflers broke off; that's gonna be expensive. So frustration and repairs starting to pile up value I figure time topart out the car.

As an aside, maybe what is happening with your ECU that you say it is dying. And what is happening that you suspect it is the ECU? Usually folks come to that conclusion after some lengthy diagnostics, which I assume you already did!

In 2009 Bought my 1992 SC400 Green with Tan interior fully loaded for 600 dollars because it was overheating. It was a simple leak from the thermostat joint. I felt bad for the person I bought it from. But he had LS400 in the wings. I fell in love with the Borla twin exhaust with a crossover H Pipe sound - mesmerizing. Have driven it probably 6 times to Florida roundtrip;(28MPG) one of the best cars I have ever driven (used to drive Mercedes S-Class) and sorry to have to see it go - parting it out at 225K miles.got it at 140K Has TEIN shocks lowered so it rides on rails. The camber was factory set but the cars are known to wear on the insides front and back. That is how they are setup. Rebulit the ECU two years ago. Needed the capacitors - the dreaded ECU probelms. Synthetic 20-50 Mobil One. Has been very problem free - utter reliablilty until the North East Storm in January fully loaded the engine compartment with snow - twice! Now not running so well - missing on the right bank! Replaced drivers coil runs a little better, but not perfect.Front calipers started sticking and was going to go to 17 inch wheels and 95+ front brake upgrade ..... but no more ,,,, I got my moneys worth and hope to find another one!

I fix Lexus / toyota ECUs by replacing defective parts with high temp low ESR capacitors and other damaged components. He has the same part number as you? you usually also have to match the last two numbers after the part number you gave out. On my SC400 I do get a CEL if I drive with another similar but not identical ECU.Mine was 30 versus a 40 versus a 31 Here is more reinforcement: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-400-300/514607-2-ecu-part-numbers-for-the-same-year-1993-sc400.html datarecovery

In the future, you can isolate which of the 6 cylinders is acting up by loosening all the sparkplug coil connections while the engine is off. After, with the engine running, use insulated pliers (protects you from the high voltage) to remove one sparkplug coil at a time, The one that does not change the idle of the engine is the defective unit. Then you have to diagnose if there is power going to that unit etc. Certainly low voltage from the battery might affect the ECu and the workings of the ignition, but that has to be pretty low run-down battery voltage. And maybe something nibbled on the wires while you were gone? It is unusual that the codes did not specify which cylinder coilpack was defective. I forgot that of course it might be incidentally a injector through this same diagnosis method,but that wasn't what the code mentioned?

This is my own opinion, but in the end it comes down to what your wife will want. Women want something high, feels safer, something smaller seems easier to maneuver and park. I prefer the 430: rides better, better technically/technologically, better gas mileage - 17 vs 24 highway, fits the car seats way better - more space between each car seat means less fights, and safer from a crashworthiness Just MHO

Hi Lenny to me, that still does sound like a short time to wipe out a battery. I suppose after 36 months it could drop down easily below 11volts. Having lived up North most of my life, except for CALI, haven't seen that happen. I still think you might want to check the rate of the parasitic drain. If I lived closer I'd help you with it

Engine doesn't seem to be firing on passenger side; tried new sparkplugs and wires and no joy. Car is equipped with TEIN Coilovers One Borla Right muffler; (just lost the left one) Interior is in good conditon Rebuilt Power steering pump Rebuilt alternator Rebuilt ECu with Digikey High Temp Capacitors Traction control ABS No Nakamichi Headlights low and high beams Rear tail lights inner fender liners Lower Control arms AC Compressor works Heater Valve Controls etc Let me know here or private message what you want; I don't know market prices but using eBay as a measurement. or call me at 781 quatro quattro nine 999O

If you have a voltmeter you may want to check and see whether you have an item that is causing such a huge drain. Did you leave the key and or the headlights on at the same time? It could be a incorrectly grounded or shorted alternator? As VBDenny mentioned, it could be the state of the battery and the environment, but 20 minutes seems like a really short time. I would ordinarily expect a light left on or a door left open overnight to cause such a dead battery. So, to checking what is causing the drain. Remove the NEGATIVE battery cable.Wair 10 minutes to allow the air bags to dissipate the battery charge. Put your meter on the 20 VOLT DC setting and attached a probe to the NEGATIVE battery mount and the Negative cable. What is the voltage? Keep the probes as before and pull each of the fuses in your fuse box and see which one, whne pulled, has the voltage go to ZERO. That is the culprit circuit. Continue your diagnosis to find out what on that circuit is causing the drain.