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Posted

Hi guys, I hope someone here can help me.

I drive my 97 LS 400 like my granda would, nice and lovingly. This weekend as I was coming home, my car began to act up. As was starting from a light, I noticed the car not going as usual. It was as if it was "chocking", so I down shifted and it picked up to normal speed again (not sure if downshifting really helped or it just did it on it's own as I accelerated).

It did it again as I was 2 streets from my house, so I down shifted again but this time to no avail. I sort of coasted to the front of my house and by this time the car was sputtering. Now in fron of my house, I put it in park and hoping to "clear something", I floored it.

It sputtered and spewed out a whiteish/gray smoke from the exaush and then it stalled never to start again. When I stepped out of the car I saw black wet soot on the pavement from the exhaust pipes. I touched and smelled it and it felt more like water that fuel or oil for it was odorless and it lacked the properties of oil,

Today I tried to start it again. It cranks but that's about it.

Can anyone please tell me what to do? How do I troubleshoot this? I'm pretty handy, so talk to me...

Thanks,

Pavee-

P.s. Three months ago I had an issue with a radiator leak on the reservoir hose intake. Yes, the car did over heat a couple of times, nonetheless, it was minor everytime and I always had spare water. It took me 3 days to get a new one and change it. Not sure if that's anything but I feel it's worth mentioning it.

Posted

Welcome, is your check engine light? If so you will need to borrow/buy a cheap code reader and get back to us with the codes since your car will not start. If it were mobile I would tell you to go to autozone and they would read your codes for free and give you a printout. How many miles do you have on the odometer?

Posted

Hi Sha400,

She has 166873 miles and the engine light did not come on prior to this incident.

It is on now but I think it's just because the ignition switch is open with the engine off...

Posted

The car does not have to be running to have/check a code. I'm pretty sure you have one with the description that you provided. It can be several things so It makes no sense to guess. What was the temp outside when this happened and was the car fully warmed up?

Posted

That afternoon was around 58° and I had been driving for like 15 to 20 minutes, the time it takes me to drive home. By that time the car is fully warmed up.

I'm wondering if this could be the fuel pump...

Posted

Fuel pumps are strange things. Ive had them go from perfecto dead in a few minutes. I've also had them cause really poor starting in such that had to crank a long time. CELcame on in first case but not second.

Posted

Fuel pumps are strange things. Ive had them go from perfect to dead in a few minutes. I've also had them cause really poor starting in such that had to crank a long time. CELcame on in first case but not second.

Posted

Welcome Pavel :cheers:

Sorry to hear of the problems. As previously pointed out, a code reading with an OBDII reader is the first thing to try.

Other than that, you can usually divide between fuel and spark pretty easily. If the fuel pump is out, then spraying some starter fluid into the intake snout and cranking will usually get the engine to at least sputter for a moment. So thats one simple test. Also, if you "smell" raw gas while cranking, it is likely that your fuel pump is ok.

Seeing black soot on the pavement makes me suspect your ignition. Since you have a 97, you still have two coils, two distributors and two rotors. It is somewhat common for a coil to go out and even more common for a rotor to go bad (they are supposed to be replaced on a periodic maintenance schedule although many forget to do so).

You can check for spark by pulling a plug wire and inserting a spare spark plug into the end. Then position the ground electrode of the plug against the chassis(metal, not plastic) and crank, looking for a healthy blue spark. You need to check both left and right banks.

Posted

First thing to rule out is bad gas. Check timing belt. Next verify that there is spark to the spark plugs. When they are out do a compression test. Verify fuel pump is working by checking the fuel pressure. Verify the injectors are getting a signal.

Anyone of them not right then you found the problem.

Posted

Also keep in mind that the vast majority of problems are electrical in nature, not fuel. Fuel issues are fairly uncommon so it is alway best to check electrical first. I do know that for whatever reason, the LS400's need a lot of electrical power which means a failing battery can cause weird things to happen. IN your case having things go bad so quickly should actually help. Plug it in and see what you see.

Posted

The brotherhood in this forum is amazing!

I was going out of my mind, so I paid a mechanic shop to tell me what was wrong. Their diagnosis was the fuel pump at a $574.37 repair cost.

Rather than pay that, I'll just pay for the diagnosis ($85.00) and fix it myself.

I'll get an aftermarket fuel pump, strainer (needed on aftermarket units) and the fuel filter (all for less that $190.00 including tax) and give it a shot. This would be my 3rd fuel pump change since my teens. Tank is at a quarter capacity or so and I have some tools so I don't anticipate any issues.

Guys, any recommendations before I start? I most certainly appreciate them all!

Posted

Wonderful that you found the problem. Tough job to change it yourself. Don't smoke on the job.

  • Like 1
Posted

Great that you got on this so quick and found what "seems" to be the problem. Most ppl that pop in here would have wasted lots of time posting more questions when the answers/suggestions were already given. The pump should not be that difficult to change so let us know how it goes. Did your mechanic come out to you or did you have it towed? And how did he determine it was the pump? Just curious.

Posted

Had wifey tow me to their shop. I repeated what I shared with you guys and he said "I suspect the fuel pump. We'll confirm it if it is so and then take it from there".

I personally wondered if that's what it was. He also said that "once the fuel pump is replaced, we'll troubleshoot for anything else in order to confirm that there's nothing else contributing to the problem".

That sounded nice AND concerning to me at the same time. Reason being is that finances have been tight and I need the car to go work. I sincerely hope and pray that there's nothing else wrong with the car... :)

Also, what does the red light to the right side of the dashboard below the gauges mean? It looks like this >>> (o)


Posted

I doubt that. The light comes on for one of two reasons. Parking brake on OR because there is a pressure loss in the system. Low pads are indicated by a squeal that is continuous until you apply the brakes. If it is a problem in the front you would already know. The back? Maybe not.

Check the fluid level in your reservoirs. Check to make sure the parking brake is off all the way.

Posted

Are there any videos, tutorials or step-by-step instructions in how to replace the fuel pump on the 97 LS 400?
From 1-10, what's the degree of difficulty on a 1/4 tank?

Thank you guys!

Posted

You have to remove the back seat to get at the gas tank and then the fuel pump, which is not hard. You do not need to remove the gas tank. Difficulty level is subjective but I would put it at a "6". Now, you are absolutely sure it is the fuel pump, right?

Here is a link to removing the seat -> http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/body/rearseat.html

Posted

Thank you Sha4000, thank you Landar.

Landar, so I can do the whole operation on this 97 LS400 just by removing the rear seat? No need to remove the tank itself?

Posted

Landar, so I can do the whole operation on this 97 LS400 just by removing the rear seat? No need to remove the tank itself?

Correct. No need to drop the tank... unlike some other cars. Finally, you catch a break, huh? ^_^

Remove the back seat, then just use the .pdf instructions that sha4000 provided. No fumar.

  • Like 1

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