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Posted
On my 91 LS 400 the front outside passenger door handle
stopped working.

The outside keyed door lock will still lock and unlock the

car but pulling on the handle does nothing.
I can open the door with the inside handle.
What is the fix for this and what stopped working or
broke?
I did try looking for info at https://techinfo.toyota.com/ but must have
used the wrong words as found nothing.

Posted

Will this car never stop with the issues!? ^_^

It sounds like it is just a linkage rod that has fallen off inside the door panel. You will have to remove the inner door panel to reconnect it. There might be a plastic holder that is broken but you will have to get inside to see.

Posted

That is what I am thinking. The car is now at that age where plastic stuff is just falling apart with out even touching it.

Frustrating as it is a good car and runs good... But little thing and not so little thing one after the other... Is no fun...

Posted

Look on www.lexls for the inner door panel removal and then have a look thru the circular hole shown in the picture.

You should be able to see the external door handle link rod in there, pull the handle and see if it moves, if it doesn't it's the handle end of the rod causing the problem if it does move it's the lock end of the link rod.

post-26370-0-96859400-1372444461_thumb.j

Posted

Thank you. I know his sit well. Already printed it out.

I strongly suspect the rod came off from the door handle.

Anyone know how it clips on and where to get replacement clips??

Posted

Will this car never stop with the issues!? ^_^

I am feeling that way. It is at the mechanics for the conversion of

the AC fro r12 to 134a. But can't figure out for sure how to flush the

oil out. But that is another story.

I was going to do the brakes and fix the door handle when I got the car back..

But life is messing with me... So ....

I have now told the shop to fix the door and do the front brakes (rotors are warped)

Posted

Will this car never stop with the issues!? ^_^

I am feeling that way. It is at the mechanics for the conversion of

the AC fro r12 to 134a. But can't figure out for sure how to flush the

oil out. But that is another story.

I was going to do the brakes and fix the door handle when I got the car back..

But life is messing with me... So ....

I have now told the shop to fix the door and do the front brakes (rotors are warped)

My personal experience is that the R-134a is a poor substitute for the R-12. These cars were designed to run on the lower pressures of the R-12 for a reason, and after I had a professional retrofit done on my car, the compressor was noisy as hell, took forever to get cold, and was ultimately so poor in cooling performance that I had it flushed out and put back to R-12. I know the gas is expensive if you buy it at retail, but you can get your EPA certification online for $20, and you can buy it all day long yourself at wholesale prices, even if you just buy the gas and take it to your shop, much less keep it topped-off yourself. I've been much happier since having mine put back to original. Also, I know of no other way to drain the old oil from our systems than to take off the compressor and drain it that way, (plus replacing the receiver/dryer) as it has an oil well, and follow up with a couple cans of A/C flush ran through the whole system. Hope this helps save you frustration and expense!

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