Replacing A Rear Bearing Hub Assembly On A 2004 Lexus Rx330

[lenore]

hey now you can go buy that thing you really wanted, tell wifey how much you saved.

[jasonmills]

Hi guys,

I just wanted to confirm how deep the socket needs to be on the 2004 RX330 repair?

Thansk.

[netvigators]

Hello, thanks for the detail info and photos, it was really helpful.

I'm going to replace both left and right rear hub bearing assembly on my 04' RX330. I'm still preparing and odering parts and tools to get this job started but I also want to share some additional info. First of all, here is a list of parts that I just got:

• A pair of NSK (OEM) rear hub bearing assembly $95 ea. shipped from partgeeks.com (my buddy told me Timken was better in quality and the bearings may last longer. I just wanted to save some dollars here so I didn't care too much)
  
• A 30mm 12 points deep socket $10 from advanceauto
  
• Axle shaft nut $7 ea. picked up from local lexus dealer (Lexus stock# 9008017238)
  
• A torque wrench up to 300ft.lbs (borrowed from my buddy)
  

I know some of DIYers just reuse the axle nut again but the Lexus repair manual stated that this axle shaft nut is non-reusable. However, it didn't mentioned if it's a torque nut, but it stated the axle nut should be torqued at 217 ft.lbs. With that high torque requirement, it's likely the old nut will not hold the proper torque a second time. Anyway, I went and bought two new axle shaft nuts with a peace of mind.

I was also researching on the 04' RX330 AWD torque spec for some bolts/nuts that I will be working with. BTW, these specs may apply to previous RX300 models and 04'-06' RX330. As I found these info from Internet, so use at your own risk and discretion.

• Axle shaft nuts (x1) = 217 ft.lbs
  
• Axle hub bolts (x4) = 55 ft.lbs
  
• Disc brake caliper assy bolts (x2) = 58 ft lbs
  
• Disc brake slide pin (x2) = 32 ft. lbs
  
• Wheel lug nuts (x5) = 76 ft. lbs
  

[netvigators]

Just completed the job. The entire job with two hub bearing assembly took me little over 4 hours for both rear wheels. My RX is running quietly again.

The only challenging step that I encountered was the last step in the pictures - seperating the old hub bearing assembly from backing plate (black dust plate where e-brake attached). Both of my old hub bearing assembly were stuck and seized onto the backing plate due to rust or corrosion. Since there was a e-brake and the brake cable were attached to the backing plate, I had little room to support or work on it. Because the entire e-brake is at the bottom of the pate, I couldn't place any weight support from bottom. I could only imagine using a hammer for few good whacks would damaged the backing plate. I tried couple big whacks without any luck, the old hub assembly just wouldn't seperate but the backing plate started to bent slightly.

My friend came over to help me and suggested I should disassemble the e-brake assembly to gain some solid support from the bottom of the plate. After taking off the e-brake, I gained more room for supporting the weight from the bottom. Then I used 3 car stands to support 3 points closest to the edge of the hub and gave the center of the bearing couple heavy whacks (using 5 lbs hammer), the hub bearing assembly finally seperated and dropped to the floor.

[LTRX]

Nelks, thanks very much for the post - I just finished my second hub assembly replacement on my '05 RX 330 and it's great to be in a quiet car again.

I went with the $125 Duralast option vs. the $200 Timken from Autozone. I agree the Timken would be a better option but I actually hate this car and I'm only doing the bearings so I can trade it in without taking a hit. I was quoted $2700 from the local Lexus dealer and $2300 from the garage I normally deal with to do the job so this procedure saved me a lot!

I also found the 32mm socket a little loose so maybe the 30mm would work for the '05 as well.

Netvigators, thanks for the torque specs. I don't have the repair manual and have wondered about the torque specs. Also, I had a similar experience to yours in separating the hub from the backing plate. I fussed with both of them for a long time before finally holding the backing plate in one hand while giving the hub a few good whacks with the hammer - just what nelks recommended, I just didn't hit it hard enough at first. Anyway, the hubs finally popped out with no noticeable damage to the backing plate or the e-brake assembly.

Thanks again, great post and thread!

[sunroom]

Tony/Lakeeffectsledhead,

any step /picture on how you did this, "The gear puller popped the hub and brake dust plate off with just a couple turns"?

is it 2 claw or 3 claw puller?

[740GLE]

I just changed both back bearings on my 2006 rx 330 (AWD) and these instructions worked great. I still had the problem of separating the hub from the backing plate due to rust but found a solution that worked well. Once free (I used a 2 prong gear puller), Slide hub and backing plate unit off of drive shaft onto a wood block for support to protect the brake cable as mentioned. Turn unit sideways to gain access to rear of bearing flange that protrudes through the backing plate. Whack this flange around its edge until you break the rust seal and the bearing hub pops off. This way you won't bend the backing plate.

[ovonic]

excellent work instructions!! mine when great till the bearing assy. wont seperate from the back plate. the raised metal that sticks out the back of the back plate, is that part of the assy? can i whack on thosed raised edges? thanks again for your help. im stuck at that point.

jerry

[mckc]

Hi all,

Great instruction. Everything was perfect until bearing separated into two pieces,
but hammer did the job. All in all I did the work , no bearing noise inside
again. For spindle nut 30mm socket needed not 32mm. (my RX 2004 Japan).

Thanks for perfect instruction, and sorry for my poor English.

[JJS11]

Great post thank you! You saved me a ton of money!

If you have an all wheel drive, the car will need to be in neutral before you start or you will not be able to rotate the old hub to access all 4 bolts. Of course make sure the car can not move before taking off the tire.

[Boxley]

I replaced both of my hub bearing last fall. I originally bought one from Auto zone, (turned out both were bad as the noise did not go away) got a lesser bearing from Auto zone, it lasted 50 miles before separating while I was driving. Fortunately I was close to home. Auto zone refunded my monet, and I then purchased the Timken bearings. I have put over 10K on the bearings with no issues. Do not go cheap on the hub bearings, as the lost time and labor are not worth it.

[jarhead7276]

Are both assemblies the same for the '05 RX 330? I hear noise in the right (passenger) side but plan to replace both units. I want to order and don't see a difference for either side for the AWD vehicles. Thanks, Pete

[triumph2]

good info, very helpful. problem is threads stripped on axle while removing old axle nut,evidently small piece of metal lodged itself in threads while bending flex portion when removing. I imagine I will now have to get new axle, before I do does anyone know if rear axles are supposed to pop out of differential after removing wheel bearing hub assembly?

[Hajoca]

Thank you soooo much!

I just replaced the passenger side today, rusty, and the back plate came off with the hub.

I did some pre work two weeks ago by removing each hub bolt and soaking it with KROIL.

The spindle nut (12 point, 30mm) to get 217 ft-lbs, is not that hard.

217 divide your weight = feet from the center.

Multiply that 12 and you get inches of the breaker bar (or pipe) you step on to tighten.

[AndyH123]

Hi nelks, I just wanted to say thankyou for posting your post (which I followed to the letter!) on how to replace the rear wheel bearing on the Lexus RX330 (2004). Your information worked perfectly for me! I'm an accountant, so if I can do it, anyone can!

For you guys still wishing to do this, be prepared to use a heavy hammer, and make sure you have all the tools nelks listed!

I found the hardest part was removing the wheel bearing assembly from the wheel backing plate (bonded by corrosion, PB Blaster didn't loosen it). Eventually a neighbor came across and brought me two large bricks, which I used as a bench to lean the backing plate / bearing assembly onto. You have to hit the bearing out with a LOT of force. Be prepared to wake up the whole neighborhood with your sledgehammer.

Eventually the bearing fell out, onto the floor, and there were cheers all around!

My car is a Lexus RX330, 2004 model, and was originally manufactured in Japan. With this I can confirm that the wheel axle nut is a 30mm 12-point nut. The wheel hub nut needs to be replaced each time you take the bearing off, because in the process you have to bend out the crimp in the old nut. This means you effectively weaken the nut, so pop down to Lexus and grab a replacement (costs about $15).

The socket to remove this nut is also a 30mm 12-point socket, which isn't easy to get hold of. I got mine from Lordco in Vancouver, BC. I got the last one in the shop, so you'll probably have to order one specifically. Canadian Tire didn't stock these at all.

A big mistake I made was stripping one of the rusty bolts on my brake disk assembly. Stupidly I initially tried to twist the bolt the wrong way round to undo it, and ended up rounding the bolt head. Nothing worked to get the bolt off (vise-grips, spanners, socket wrench, pipe wrench) after that! Frustrated I put the whole car back together again, and went and got these (below) to remove the bolt. Trust me, these are lifesavers, and you'll never want to part with them, once you've used them:
http://new.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-maximum-ratcheting-bolt-remover-2-pc-0582500p.html#.U8jXkFarvFI

For my replacement wheel bearing. I just went with the cheapie option, costing me $100 on eBay. Yes, it's cheap, but I'll probably only use the car for another 100,000km, so I'm not too bothered about getting something that will last the next 10 years, and it won't be difficult to change the bearing once again. The link is below for this bearing:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REAR-WHEEL-HUB-BEARING-ASSEMBLY-LEXUS-RX330-2004-2005-2006-RX350-512284-AWD-/200925612980?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D201031821246%26ps%3D54

Initially the job took me 6 hours. But as a test I've taken everything apart and reassembled again, and found the entire job, takes less than 2 hours.

Another thing I noticed is that the wheel makes a slight scraping noise when turned by hand (after everything's back together again). This is the parking brake rubbing just a little bit inside the drum. I subsequently found this sound is in all wheels, so it's not something to worry too much about. As long as, once you are finished, the wheel spins easily when turned by hand, you'll be fine.

My car is now really quiet once again! No more noisy growling bearing!

Thanks again guys, for all your great advice along the way! Also thanks Netvigators for the torque ratings!

- I owe you one!

[Ctravis]

Help!!!

First I need to admit I screwed up.

I forced the axle nut off. it was hard to turn off but I cranked it off. I must mot have gotten the divet all the way out and i screwed up the threads.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Hajoca]

How badly stripped are the threads? if it is minor, just borrow a die and try and clean them up.

Any pictures?

[Ctravis]

Hajji,

Thank you for getting back to me.

I spent almost as much time trying to find a die as i did disassembling the unit.

I figured I had nothing more to lose so I added the pipe to the end of my ratchet and cranked it on. Once I got past the rough spot, it went on easily. I just got lucky.

The project took a total of about 6 hours but, I'm sure I could do it in half the time now that i know what to look for.

It was still worth the time, a local mechanic quoted me $1,300. I spent just about $150 so, I think it was worth the effort.

I got stuck at a few spots but, the advise from the forum got me through.

Basically everything was rusted and bonded and nothing came off easy.

• I used the screw suggestion to get the rotor off.
• Gear puller popped the axle in just a few turns. (when the backing plate didn't come off I thought it didn't work but, in hind site, It did work. I was pounding with the hammer for no reason.)
• Pry bar popped the backing plate right off once i figured out where to place it.
• Reassembly went well except for my screwed up thread incident.

Thank you all for your help. I hope to return the favor one day.

[Hajoca]

No problem.

I HATE RUST.

I did this repair from all the help I got from this forum too!

I have a set of thread files, but they are also hard to find.... and could not bear to point you to an industrial supply to buy them.

[WNE]

Thanks for the great post. It provided a lot of help when doing the same job on my 2004 RX330 (Japan manufacture - 3/04, 132,000 miles). The things I noticed were: 1. Mine needed the 30mm deep set socket. 2. I went to Advanced Auto Parts and "rented" a hub puller which made the job of removing the hub from the spindle very easy. All the auto parts stores here do this. You pay for the part from their rental equipment and if you return it within a certain number of days, you get all your money back, so it cost me nothing. 3. A new nut, if you screw it up when removing it, cost $7.20 at the Lexus dealer. 4. I had a major burr in one of the threads on the spindle after removing the hub net and used a dremel tool to clean it up. 5. It took almost one quart of new brake fluid to completely replace the brake fluid in the system and bleed it.

My project took about 12 hours, but it included replacing the entire rear brake system (calipers, rotors, and pads). My dealer wanted $675 to replace the wheel bearing hub alone and my independent high performance shop wanted $471 for the same thing. I did all of the work (brakes and hub) including supplies for $447, using high quality parts (Raybestos and Moog). I figure I saved over $1,000 and actually got a better job (especially on the brakes) than I would have gotten from the dealer of my independent shop.

Good luck to anyone else doing this project.

[B Davis]

Just followed this for my 2006 RX330. Spot on. Thank you. Just saved $800... since I put on new rotors/pads at the same time.

[micjmmy]

Great write up!! Does anyone know if this is the same process for my 06' 400h?

[Brent217]

5. Hex head 8mm -- 1 25 x 50 mm bolt.

What is this? I can find many 1.25 X 50mm bolts, and I can find bolts with 8mm heads. Am I missing something obvious here?

Edit - yes the obvious I was missing was the decimal place I didn't see.

Anyhow, this guide worked well for the rear driver side. On the passenger side, I stripped the caliper bolts. I bought the recommended tool from Canadian Tire, that worked to get the lower bolt out, but it stripped the upper bolt completely. We tried spraying it with Deep Clean, we tried heating the assembly with a propane torch and then a nat gas torch, and finally we gave up and cut the bolt.

With the bolt cut I could remove the brake calipers, but I am unable to pull what should be the smooth part of the bolt out. Seems to be seized in pretty good. The caliper bracket is still attached to the hose, I am going to have to take that off and then work on the bolt with a vice and pipe wrench.

I ordered a remanufactured brake caliper from autopartswarehouse.ca, which was 200 Canadian, which is still a whole lot more than Parts Geek, but parts geek doesn't deliver to Canada. Will see how it goes when the parts arrive.

[brinkybrink]

Great help!

I had a noisy bearing on a 2004 rx330 AWD and after several attempts to locate the culprit, using my iphone strapped to the coil spring around the struts to record the sound at 45 - 65 mph was no help due to the wind noise upon playback. I got in the rear and opened the cover exposing the jack and jumped in while my wife drove. Less than a mile the right rear started talking to me like a baby with a dirty diaper, Change me!

I replaced the right reat hub assm. an used a two claw puller, a three would have been easier but its what i had. I tightened it down against the spindle and had to hold it to keep it from popping off and hit it with and 18 oz framing hammer and it popped right off. I went with a Moog bearing and it is manufactured by NSK. The biggest problem I had was to bend the tab up on the axle nut. I broke the tip of a screwdriver first then I used a nail set to finish the job off. I'm going to harbor freight to look at their punch sets before replacing the left rear. Like everyone else I'm confident I can replace the second one in an hour or less and my local shop wanted $491 vs $143 which included the price of a 30mm 12pt socket. I'm thinking about doing rear bearings for $250 each parts and labor but I'm afraid the IRS would come knocking wanting a cut, because there would be a line of RX's a mile long, lol. Thanks again for everyone contributing.

[TitusKing]

Can anyone confirm the procedure is the same on an RX400h? 

I have a MY2008 RX400h & I think this needs to be done. I'm getting clunking noises from my right rear over bumps & cracks in the road.