1999 Lexus Es300 P1349 Code

[FrankAnthonyDavis]

Hello everyone I was wondering if I could get some help... I have a 1999 Lexus ES300 it currently has P1133, P1153, and P1349 stored. I believe P1133 and P1153 have been in there for a while and were not giving me the current trouble (this air/fuel sensors were replaced previously but afterwards the codes came back). Anyway I was driving the car about a week ago and it started to feel like the transmission was slipping, it wouldn't go into Overdrive, it would idle rough, and the brake pedal would "harden" at stop signs. So thats when I pulled the P1349 for the first time (along with a few misfires) so I grabbed the TIS diagnostics sheet and started to work my way through the list(at least the easier things I am able to quickly able to do, affordably). So I install a new ECM and a new Camshaft position sensor to no avail. I then replaced the OCV Filter(which didn't look blocked up it had some particles in it and a "goop" of oil came out when I pulled it out but thats it). So this morning I pulled out the OCV to test it and the resistance is 7 ohms and the valve still operates perfectly. So when I go home today I am going to put the OCV back in with a new O-ring and change the oil and take it for a ride and scan it again. I doubt anything will be fixed as both parts looked fine but its due for an oil change anyway. So now I am kind of at a loss as to what to do... Any ideas would be appreciated! Thank you for reading! :-)

[George_Jetson]

When you tested the OCV for operation, did you hook it up to 12 volts to make sure that it opened? I would also suggest getting a can a brake cleaner and using that on the valve while it is actuated. If that looks normal I would suggest trying check if the oil supply tube is clogging up. If you can, try to hook up a air compressor to the supply line and blowing back thru (remove the oil filter first).

I would also be concerned about the other codes that you have. Then check engine light will go off as soon as the problem is fixed, the codes should clear a short while latter. I do not recall exactly how many engine cycles it takes, but if it has been more than a few weeks the codes should have cleared themselves.

[Sexus ES300]

On my dads toyota when i cleaned out the maf he drove for about 30 miles and ithe check engine light turned off so id think it would be similar to that

[George_Jetson]

On my dads toyota when i cleaned out the maf he drove for about 30 miles and ithe check engine light turned off so id think it would be similar to that

The light will go out at soon as the ECM see's the input reading back in a "normal" range, but the code that set the light will remain for a finite period. For this reason, if you see the light go on, even for a short period. Get the codes read, you want to know what it is, even if only intermitent. Once the problem is corrected, the code will clear by itself.

[FrankAnthonyDavis]

When you tested the OCV for operation, did you hook it up to 12 volts to make sure that it opened? I would also suggest getting a can a brake cleaner and using that on the valve while it is actuated. If that looks normal I would suggest trying check if the oil supply tube is clogging up. If you can, try to hook up a air compressor to the supply line and blowing back thru (remove the oil filter first).

I would also be concerned about the other codes that you have. Then check engine light will go off as soon as the problem is fixed, the codes should clear a short while latter. I do not recall exactly how many engine cycles it takes, but if it has been more than a few weeks the codes should have cleared themselves.

Thanks for the reply. I did apply 12 Volts to the OCV and it did open, I will make sure to clean it before reinstalling it. I do have an air compressor that I can use but I am not certain where the oil supply tube is, is it easy to access?

[FrankAnthonyDavis]

I would also be concerned about the other codes that you have. Then check engine light will go off as soon as the problem is fixed, the codes should clear a short while latter. I do not recall exactly how many engine cycles it takes, but if it has been more than a few weeks the codes should have cleared themselves.

I didn't mean to make it sound like I was ignoring the other codes I just wanted to get it across that all 3 codes didn't show up at once. I actually had a shop originally diagnose the P1133 and the P1153 codes and they ended up replacing an air/fuel sensor and it was very expensive and I havent had the money to deal with it as of late. The cars drivability was great until P1349 showed up even though I would like to solve both problems P1349 seems to be the main problem right now

[George_Jetson]

I have not worked on one of these yet, so you will have to wing this one. If you cannot figure out a way to do it from the valve area, you might want to pressurize it from the oil filter. Since you have already replaced the ECM, the other possibilities are the valve, wiring and oil feed line.

Do you have access to a o'scope? If so check the signal at the valve. If not, do you have access to a DVM that can read TRUE RMS AC voltage? Most DVMs do not read true rms, they read peak rms and then extrapolate the ac reading. The signal to the valve is a pulse width modulated signal. I would assume that the average meter would not be able to follow the actual readings. Did you try to read the voltage at the valve? It is possible there is a wiring problem, and unless the ECM has the hardware, and software code to monitior it will not set a code for the oil control valve circuit. I am aware of only a few circuits that it does monitor, such as the O2 sensor heaters. It is possible that the wire harness or connectors are causing this problem and since the ECM is not monitoring the actual valve signal, it will not generate a error code.

[FrankAnthonyDavis]

I have not worked on one of these yet, so you will have to wing this one. If you cannot figure out a way to do it from the valve area, you might want to pressurize it from the oil filter. Since you have already replaced the ECM, the other possibilities are the valve, wiring and oil feed line.

Do you have access to a o'scope? If so check the signal at the valve. If not, do you have access to a DVM that can read TRUE RMS AC voltage? Most DVMs do not read true rms, they read peak rms and then extrapolate the ac reading. The signal to the valve is a pulse width modulated signal. I would assume that the average meter would not be able to follow the actual readings. Did you try to read the voltage at the valve? It is possible there is a wiring problem, and unless the ECM has the hardware, and software code to monitior it will not set a code for the oil control valve circuit. I am aware of only a few circuits that it does monitor, such as the O2 sensor heaters. It is possible that the wire harness or connectors are causing this problem and since the ECM is not monitoring the actual valve signal, it will not generate a error code.

I have the Fluke 115 which I think can read true RMS AC Voltage... Do I need to clamp it for can I probe and am I testing with the car started and running? I will also be sure to check for wiring and connector problems as much as I can. Hopefully it stops raining here so I can get out and work on it. Thanks a lot for your help.

[George_Jetson]

I would suggest backprobing the connector, the connector needs to be hooked up the the valve in order to complete the circuit. There are special probes that slip between the wire and the connector (on the rear of the connector). The one I have uses sewing pins inside a special holder. If you solder a couple wires to sewing pins you will have something that is functionally the same. Monitor the other valve to get a idea what the voltage should be.

Note I have not tried this, but I would bet that it would work. A True RMS meter will calculate the true power, which should vary with the pulse width. While a regular meter only reads peak voltage, and then multiplies by .707 to display a ac voltage. Of course a scope would show the actual waveform.