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FrankAnthonyDavis

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Everything posted by FrankAnthonyDavis

  1. I have the Fluke 115 which I think can read true RMS AC Voltage... Do I need to clamp it for can I probe and am I testing with the car started and running? I will also be sure to check for wiring and connector problems as much as I can. Hopefully it stops raining here so I can get out and work on it. Thanks a lot for your help.
  2. I didn't mean to make it sound like I was ignoring the other codes I just wanted to get it across that all 3 codes didn't show up at once. I actually had a shop originally diagnose the P1133 and the P1153 codes and they ended up replacing an air/fuel sensor and it was very expensive and I havent had the money to deal with it as of late. The cars drivability was great until P1349 showed up even though I would like to solve both problems P1349 seems to be the main problem right now
  3. Thanks for the reply. I did apply 12 Volts to the OCV and it did open, I will make sure to clean it before reinstalling it. I do have an air compressor that I can use but I am not certain where the oil supply tube is, is it easy to access?
  4. Hello everyone I was wondering if I could get some help... I have a 1999 Lexus ES300 it currently has P1133, P1153, and P1349 stored. I believe P1133 and P1153 have been in there for a while and were not giving me the current trouble (this air/fuel sensors were replaced previously but afterwards the codes came back). Anyway I was driving the car about a week ago and it started to feel like the transmission was slipping, it wouldn't go into Overdrive, it would idle rough, and the brake pedal would "harden" at stop signs. So thats when I pulled the P1349 for the first time (along with a few misfires) so I grabbed the TIS diagnostics sheet and started to work my way through the list(at least the easier things I am able to quickly able to do, affordably). So I install a new ECM and a new Camshaft position sensor to no avail. I then replaced the OCV Filter(which didn't look blocked up it had some particles in it and a "goop" of oil came out when I pulled it out but thats it). So this morning I pulled out the OCV to test it and the resistance is 7 ohms and the valve still operates perfectly. So when I go home today I am going to put the OCV back in with a new O-ring and change the oil and take it for a ride and scan it again. I doubt anything will be fixed as both parts looked fine but its due for an oil change anyway. So now I am kind of at a loss as to what to do... Any ideas would be appreciated! Thank you for reading! :-)
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