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Sc400 Eng Suddenly Quit After Letting Off Gas

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I was getting off the freeway and then the eng just dies. I saw the check eng light come on. The eng cranks but I cant get it to start. Any ideas?

15K miles ago, the same thing happened, but it was my timing belt that busted. Any chance it would be the timing belt again? The car has had

the wires and plugs changed at the time. I changed both ignitors while troubleshooting an intermittent starting problem a year ago. The fuel ECU is recently replaced.

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Any ideas out there?

What about a crankshaft sensor going bad?

Please help.

I was getting off the freeway and then the eng just dies. I saw the check eng light come on. The eng cranks but I cant get it to start. Any ideas?

15K miles ago, the same thing happened, but it was my timing belt that busted. Any chance it would be the timing belt again? The car has had

the wires and plugs changed at the time. I changed both ignitors while troubleshooting an intermittent starting problem a year ago. The fuel ECU is recently replaced.

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Pull one of the fuel lines off and crank the car and see if fuel comes out. If not then check the fuel pump relay and also check the EFI fuse. If one of those is bad it'll just die. Also in my ls400 I'm not too sure about this on your car but in the fuse box underneath the dash there is another fuse just for the fuel pump and i remember mine went bad once and my car would cut off instantly. Happened to me at school a while back because the fuse was loose, so i put some pressure on it and managed to get it to stick in there and haven't had any problems since. If you had the timing belt replaced there's no way it could have broken again in that amount of mileage. They usually last 60-90k miles. Good luck.

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Pull one of the fuel lines off and crank the car and see if fuel comes out. If not then check the fuel pump relay and also check the EFI fuse. If one of those is bad it'll just die. Also in my ls400 I'm not too sure about this on your car but in the fuse box underneath the dash there is another fuse just for the fuel pump and i remember mine went bad once and my car would cut off instantly. Happened to me at school a while back because the fuse was loose, so i put some pressure on it and managed to get it to stick in there and haven't had any problems since. If you had the timing belt replaced there's no way it could have broken again in that amount of mileage. They usually last 60-90k miles. Good luck.

actually it could be the timing belt again (if it was some how improperly installed), but before you do anything else try pulling the codes on the computer and go from there. It cracks me up how so many people just start randomly changing parts when they have a problem. :lol: These people are "part changers" not "mechanics" like they often try and pass themselves off as. The truth is many components of you car could cause it to have the problem your describing. just use the process of elimination. ;)

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Pull one of the fuel lines off and crank the car and see if fuel comes out. If not then check the fuel pump relay and also check the EFI fuse. If one of those is bad it'll just die. Also in my ls400 I'm not too sure about this on your car but in the fuse box underneath the dash there is another fuse just for the fuel pump and i remember mine went bad once and my car would cut off instantly. Happened to me at school a while back because the fuse was loose, so i put some pressure on it and managed to get it to stick in there and haven't had any problems since. If you had the timing belt replaced there's no way it could have broken again in that amount of mileage. They usually last 60-90k miles. Good luck.

Also.....pulling the fuel line off and seeing if fuel comes out won't help you much(other than telling you that fuel is getting to the fuel rail) because you can have fuel getting to the rail, but it may not have adequate fuel pressure to start or run the engine. <_< you'll have to get a pressure guage to test that.

post-106115-1264269242_thumb.jpg

post-106115-1264269606_thumb.jpg

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Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

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Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

post-106115-1264283090_thumb.jpg

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I took it to the shop to diagnose the problem. It sat all day and then they couldnt duplicate. before they touched the car, I tried some simple things that worked before for me. I have a spare set of igniters that I plugged in. I tried resetting the EFI relays under the hood by swapping the relays around. I saw my positive battery terminal had corrosion on it so I cleaned it up. All no help. Then the next day, they started it up no problem. They didnt get any codes. Fuel psi was good.

I was driving it for 15 minutes when the car died when i let off the gas going to my offramp. The radio and everything else was still working when the eng quit. So between the time the car died, and the problem being unable to be duplicated would be roughly 20 hours off.

Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

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********UPDATE*******

Well my shop duplicated the problem, not actually duplicate but the car died and wouldn't start anymore. All troubleshooting pointed towards a bad computer. I bought a used one online from some guy on ebay in florida. I received it last week. After installing the computer, it fixed my no start problem.

New problem tho, a little part could be heard rattling inside the computer. Found out it is some type of resistor or capacitor. It caused my Trac off and check eng light to turn on and off on its own.

Now I'm going to buy a new computer from Lexus of Roseville. They have a killer deal for those who want to know. If you plug in FB10 (Facebook 10%0ff) on anything you purchase, you'll get the ten percent off. Here's the website:

http://www.mylexparts.com/

This saved me 70 bucks off their price for a ECM. The original price was already pretty good. I'm going to pick it up when they receive it since the store is in California about an hour or so from where I am. So my new computer will be about 7 bills after the core exchange. Not bad from the dealer.

Too bad I wasted $150. The ebay store said if you open the computer up, they won't honor any returns. Oh well, anyone want a used computer that works but has some unknown problem?? I'll sell it for half the price I paid for it... plus shipping....let me know

I took it to the shop to diagnose the problem. It sat all day and then they couldnt duplicate. before they touched the car, I tried some simple things that worked before for me. I have a spare set of igniters that I plugged in. I tried resetting the EFI relays under the hood by swapping the relays around. I saw my positive battery terminal had corrosion on it so I cleaned it up. All no help. Then the next day, they started it up no problem. They didnt get any codes. Fuel psi was good.

I was driving it for 15 minutes when the car died when i let off the gas going to my offramp. The radio and everything else was still working when the eng quit. So between the time the car died, and the problem being unable to be duplicated would be roughly 20 hours off.

Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

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YAY, the new computer fixed the problems. The car seems to start quicker too. :D

********UPDATE*******

Well my shop duplicated the problem, not actually duplicate but the car died and wouldn't start anymore. All troubleshooting pointed towards a bad computer. I bought a used one online from some guy on ebay in florida. I received it last week. After installing the computer, it fixed my no start problem.

New problem tho, a little part could be heard rattling inside the computer. Found out it is some type of resistor or capacitor. It caused my Trac off and check eng light to turn on and off on its own.

Now I'm going to buy a new computer from Lexus of Roseville. They have a killer deal for those who want to know. If you plug in FB10 (Facebook 10%0ff) on anything you purchase, you'll get the ten percent off. Here's the website:

http://www.mylexparts.com/

This saved me 70 bucks off their price for a ECM. The original price was already pretty good. I'm going to pick it up when they receive it since the store is in California about an hour or so from where I am. So my new computer will be about 7 bills after the core exchange. Not bad from the dealer.

Too bad I wasted $150. The ebay store said if you open the computer up, they won't honor any returns. Oh well, anyone want a used computer that works but has some unknown problem?? I'll sell it for half the price I paid for it... plus shipping....let me know

I took it to the shop to diagnose the problem. It sat all day and then they couldnt duplicate. before they touched the car, I tried some simple things that worked before for me. I have a spare set of igniters that I plugged in. I tried resetting the EFI relays under the hood by swapping the relays around. I saw my positive battery terminal had corrosion on it so I cleaned it up. All no help. Then the next day, they started it up no problem. They didnt get any codes. Fuel psi was good.

I was driving it for 15 minutes when the car died when i let off the gas going to my offramp. The radio and everything else was still working when the eng quit. So between the time the car died, and the problem being unable to be duplicated would be roughly 20 hours off.

Well guess what..... I can't duplicate the problem now. Fuel pressure is good, the fuel filter has been replaced 5K miles ago, don't know what the hell is wrong.

No codes either.... I'm afraid to drive it because it will probably happen again, and then I'm again gonna be stuck in the middle of nowhere waiting for a tow.

if the "cel" light came on there should be codes stored in history even if the light came on and then went out. Let me ask a few questions first....when the car went dead did the radio, guages or anything else suddenly turn off as well? Do a fuel pressure test and make sure the PSI on the rail is within factory specs. Do this several times (once on a "cold start" and one after you have driven the car for 10min or more). how long had you been driving when this happened? How long did the car sit before you were able to restart it? What mods (if any) have been preformed on your car?

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