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lexus_ne

Check Engine Light Is On. What To Do?

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The check engine light on my 2000 RX300 turned on when I drove home on New Year's eve. I continued driving for ~20 miles and got home alright. How do I go about figuring out what the problem is?

Cheers,

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Many auto parts stores will read the code for you with their scanner for free.

Once you know the failure code then you can start moving toward a fix.

Tom

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Many auto parts stores will read the code for you with their scanner for free.

Once you know the failure code then you can start moving toward a fix.

Tom

X2- That's the ONLY way you can know what the problem is. If you are competent to do your own work, my recommendation to ANYONE who does, is to spend the money to get a half way decent scanner, probably less than $100. and for a really basic code reader, less than $50. As the car gets older, you're going to need it more and more if you keep it. Gives you a fighting chance of not having your bank account emptied in one swift motion. Knowledge is power and only the ignorant don't want at least the power to keep from being ripped off.

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Many auto parts stores will read the code for you with their scanner for free.

Once you know the failure code then you can start moving toward a fix.

Tom

Thanks for the tip. I stopped by my local Advanced Parts store and they did a scan. The failure code is P1130: Fuel Air Metering. I'm doing the research right now.

Cheers,

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Many auto parts stores will read the code for you with their scanner for free.

Once you know the failure code then you can start moving toward a fix.

Tom

X2- That's the ONLY way you can know what the problem is. If you are competent to do your own work, my recommendation to ANYONE who does, is to spend the money to get a half way decent scanner, probably less than $100. and for a really basic code reader, less than $50. As the car gets older, you're going to need it more and more if you keep it. Gives you a fighting chance of not having your bank account emptied in one swift motion. Knowledge is power and only the ignorant don't want at least the power to keep from being ripped off.

Totally agree. Actually while I was at the local Advanced Parts store to have them scan the code, I did a quick browse of their scanners. They range from $50 to $200. Any particular brand/type you would recommend?

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Many auto parts stores will read the code for you with their scanner for free.

Once you know the failure code then you can start moving toward a fix.

Tom

X2- That's the ONLY way you can know what the problem is. If you are competent to do your own work, my recommendation to ANYONE who does, is to spend the money to get a half way decent scanner, probably less than $100. and for a really basic code reader, less than $50. As the car gets older, you're going to need it more and more if you keep it. Gives you a fighting chance of not having your bank account emptied in one swift motion. Knowledge is power and only the ignorant don't want at least the power to keep from being ripped off.

Totally agree. Actually while I was at the local Advanced Parts store to have them scan the code, I did a quick browse of their scanners. They range from $50 to $200. Any particular brand/type you would recommend?

check the vacuum hose just behind the engine air cleaner and just forward of the brake master cylinder. it is a short black rubber hose that connects to a metal pipe-looking hose. it will sometimes come loose, especially if you're not careful when you remove the cover to the air filter to check it. that will make your check engine light come on when there is absolutely nothing wrong but the hose being loose.

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X2- That's the ONLY way you can know what the problem is. If you are competent to do your own work, my recommendation to ANYONE who does, is to spend the money to get a half way decent scanner, probably less than $100. and for a really basic code reader, less than $50. As the car gets older, you're going to need it more and more if you keep it. Gives you a fighting chance of not having your bank account emptied in one swift motion. Knowledge is power and only the ignorant don't want at least the power to keep from being ripped off.

I completely agree with that. And since almost everybody has a laptop nowadays, I'd suggest you to take a look at http://www.scantool.net/obdlink-ci.html

I used to scan the ECU of my old 94 Camry V6 with a cheap clone made in China and it worked smoothly. However, it does not work in my 98 ES300 due to its old firmware; but this is a kind of issue that you certainly will not find in the original US made OBDLink - Ci Scan tool. With a system like this you will be able to read DTCs , to clear warning lights and to monitor several real time engine parameters. Furthermore, it's a great toy to play with!

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check the vacuum hose just behind the engine air cleaner and just forward of the brake master cylinder. it is a short black rubber hose that connects to a metal pipe-looking hose. it will sometimes come loose, especially if you're not careful when you remove the cover to the air filter to check it. that will make your check engine light come on when there is absolutely nothing wrong but the hose being loose.

hrhino2,

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check it out. I also googled the Internet, below is a list of things that could go wrong for the code P1130.

P1130 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

  • Open or short in A/F sensor circuit
  • A/F sensor
  • Air induction system
  • Fuel pressure
  • Injector
  • ECM

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check the vacuum hose just behind the engine air cleaner and just forward of the brake master cylinder. it is a short black rubber hose that connects to a metal pipe-looking hose. it will sometimes come loose, especially if you're not careful when you remove the cover to the air filter to check it. that will make your check engine light come on when there is absolutely nothing wrong but the hose being loose.

hrhino2,

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check it out. I also googled the Internet, below is a list of things that could go wrong for the code P1130.

P1130 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

  • Open or short in A/F sensor circuit
  • A/F sensor
  • Air induction system
  • Fuel pressure
  • Injector
  • ECM

I opened the hook and looked around, but didn't see anything loose. I wiggled a few things and all connections seem to be fine. I will start looking into replacing the A/F sensor. Does anybody know the part number by any chance? Can I get it from a Toyota dealership? Will the Check Engine Light automatically turn off if I happen to fix the problem? Or do I have to manually reset it from somewhere?

Cheers

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